Did you experience any of the goo drip/mess that some folks had with the MCU?
Also, thanks for sharing your progress. I'll probably have to go the DIY route also.
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Bubble on instrument cluster
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Also, thanks for sharing your progress. I'll probably have to go the DIY route also.
Sorry folks, this WILL NOT WORK. I just tried it and when I tried to push the update, it stalled and would not update. The message said I had to take it to service for an update. However. On the advice of anothe forum member, Bueno, I took my motherboard and married it to the new screen. Whallah! It worked perfectly. The screen and board are made to be replaced separately. I went gen2 screen to gen 2 screen- not sure about gen 1 screen to gen 2 screen. The first pic is the replacement IC (Laura’s car) and the second one is the combo of the new screen and my motherboardI have a bad cluster as well on my 2014 with 89k miles. I asked a Tesla service tech about how one might go about a DIY replacement. Aside from the physical replacement process, one speed bump is the instrument cluster from a used car will have the info/avatar of that car when you plug it in and lite it up. One possible work around suggested: Wait to do the cluster swap until you get a notice that there is a software update pending install on your car. POSTPONE IT. Do the cluster swap, and then ALLOW the software update. If all goes well, the software update will get your replaced cluster in sync with your car.
A video that makes the physical swap look possible to do:
Standard Disclaimer: I have not done any of this myself. From what has been described above as the price of getting the local SC to do it... ouch.
Yes, there was a small amount of goo. It come off with rubbing alcohol. I was lucky that there was not much there. If the MCU starts to bubble, I am going to replace it right away, this stuff is terrible and if there is a lot of it, it will be tough to remove. I’m hoping to be able to Frankenstein a new screen to my MCU like I did with the IC.
Good info! Any pics of the Franken pieces... screen off the motherboard?
That "Unable to start car" message on the screen is a twist!
Wow, I'm late to the "how-to" party in that other thread!
Replacing instrument cluster
Great info going on over there!
Sorry, I did not see this post. I still have the old motherboard from the donor car. Let me know if you have questions or need photos. Honestly, the clip for the ribbon cable is the toughest part. Also, I did push an update when I installed the Frankensteined IC. I believe this is why I did not have any errors after installation. Pure conjecture, but a hunch. BTW. Just spoke to a mobile tech today and was told that my local SC will NOT push a firmware uptate to allow you to use a replacement motherboard/screen combo. Likely will differ from SC to SC and depends on who you know...
SigRed12
Member
Sounds like the best solution if you want to do this, is to wait until Telsa pushes a new update, perform the operation, then apply that update. It may take some time before something comes through, but if it's a supported VIN, an update will eventually come your way.
Jdcorbitt3
Member
I don’t think heat has a lot to do with it. My wife’s car is always in a garage, and has the cabin temp control on. It happened over a three day period. I just used a hair dryer and put a lot of heat on it with no change. I think the glue just starts breaking down and the glass pulls away from the LCD. I am half tempted to use mineral spirits, seal the edges and fill the void with it, like a “Whiskey compass.”
MCU was replaced 3 years ago due to the same problem.
MCU was replaced 3 years ago due to the same problem.
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Just replaced my panel this evening with a new one from Reel Deal.. Removing the goo sucked, however with enough alcohol it was able to be cleaned just took forever.
I didnt disconnect the HV or 12V systems when doing this. I powered down the car from the screen, then stayed off the seat and brake so not to wake the car. When the screen was replaced I did a reboot of the center and top screen using the steering wheel
Removing the rectangle cable was a bit of pain. You need to press then swing the plastic latch over which will disengage the clips.
I didnt disconnect the HV or 12V systems when doing this. I powered down the car from the screen, then stayed off the seat and brake so not to wake the car. When the screen was replaced I did a reboot of the center and top screen using the steering wheel
Removing the rectangle cable was a bit of pain. You need to press then swing the plastic latch over which will disengage the clips.
Finally I did it : removing the protecting glass / cleaning the glue / using a new screen protector.
Removing the instrument cluster was clearly the easy part.
Then the tricky part was to remove the protecting glass with this #### glue. The good news is that this glass is quite solid so I was able to lift it with a screwdriver. Then I used a electrical wire and a thermal gun to "peel" the protective glass...
Then it was really boring to remove the glue (99% of the glue was on the LCD and only 1% on the protective glass unfortunately). I tried various chemicals but using my thumb rubbing always is the same direction was finally more efficieent...
acetone was useful at the end of the process but only with small amount of glue.
I placed a new screen protector and everything is ok now!
Removing the instrument cluster was clearly the easy part.
Then the tricky part was to remove the protecting glass with this #### glue. The good news is that this glass is quite solid so I was able to lift it with a screwdriver. Then I used a electrical wire and a thermal gun to "peel" the protective glass...
Then it was really boring to remove the glue (99% of the glue was on the LCD and only 1% on the protective glass unfortunately). I tried various chemicals but using my thumb rubbing always is the same direction was finally more efficieent...
acetone was useful at the end of the process but only with small amount of glue.
I placed a new screen protector and everything is ok now!
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Brass Guy
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I replaced mine last weekend. Also went with Reel Deal, about $300. I spent far more time cleaning the goo than doing the replacement.
The replacement really wasn't all too difficult; with all the helpful posts and videos out there.
![20200705_083917[1].jpg](https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/20200705_083917-1-jpg.565685/ "20200705_083917[1].jpg")
The replacement really wasn't all too difficult; with all the helpful posts and videos out there.
Golgot, can you shed some light on your process and where you got the new screen protector? I assume you cleaned off all the glue and glue’d a new protector in its place? Is that correct? If so can you detail that process and which glue you used? Did you end up having to cure the glue with a UV light, etc?
Hi,
I removed the previous - strong - glass protection,
The new screen protector is a flexible laptop screen protector, which I cut the the screen dimensions with a cutter.
It use static electricity to stick to the screen... So I used no glue at all (this is why this one will be really easy to replace)
This is clearly not the same level of protection (original glass is rock solid), but I don't intend to use a hammer to prove it.
Disclamer : I have no clue if the original glass may have a role in case of accident, or if it add some level of protection with high temperature, or anything else that make Tesla using this kind of protection. I just share what I have tried , which may be a bad idea (for reasons I don't know yet).
The only cost for me was time, and 100% sure that there will be no more glue/yellow border issue... and I will still be able to replace the screen if needed.
I removed the previous - strong - glass protection,
The new screen protector is a flexible laptop screen protector, which I cut the the screen dimensions with a cutter.
It use static electricity to stick to the screen... So I used no glue at all (this is why this one will be really easy to replace)
This is clearly not the same level of protection (original glass is rock solid), but I don't intend to use a hammer to prove it.
Disclamer : I have no clue if the original glass may have a role in case of accident, or if it add some level of protection with high temperature, or anything else that make Tesla using this kind of protection. I just share what I have tried , which may be a bad idea (for reasons I don't know yet).
The only cost for me was time, and 100% sure that there will be no more glue/yellow border issue... and I will still be able to replace the screen if needed.
I was quoted $1600-$1700 to replace the instrument cluster through SC in Reno, NV... seems a bit much for small bubbles
Reel Deal no longer has these on stock. Any other sources that anyone may be aware of? Looking to get Gen 2 screen for a *reasonable* price. Thank you in advance.
Instrument Cluster to replaced bubbled, leaking Tesla Model S and X screen — Reel Deal
"***Note from July 9, 2020, Reel Deal EV regrets to inform you that we will no longer have Brand New screens for the unforeseeable future, these particular screens had stopped production over 5 years ago, and over the past 2 years our acquirement has become progressively harder and harder until it seems as if there are not any left. The good news is, we have demo screens that are used, but in almost new condition at a cheaper price, so we will continue to sell those until that market is depleted. We will also continue to dig thru all markets looking for Brand New Generation 2 screens, but it appears grim.***"
Reel Deal no longer has these on stock. Any other sources that anyone may be aware of? Looking to get Gen 2 screen for a *reasonable* price. Thank you in advance.
Instrument Cluster to replaced bubbled, leaking Tesla Model S and X screen — Reel Deal
"***Note from July 9, 2020, Reel Deal EV regrets to inform you that we will no longer have Brand New screens for the unforeseeable future, these particular screens had stopped production over 5 years ago, and over the past 2 years our acquirement has become progressively harder and harder until it seems as if there are not any left. The good news is, we have demo screens that are used, but in almost new condition at a cheaper price, so we will continue to sell those until that market is depleted. We will also continue to dig thru all markets looking for Brand New Generation 2 screens, but it appears grim.***"
For $2500 at Tesla, you could replace the MCU, center screen and IC...or $2250 for just the MCU and IC.
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