Budget Track Package for a Daily Driver (Under $4k)

[hzstealth]

I'm doing some basic track modifications for my model 3 stealth (I think we call that the P3D-) and am buying my parts & also wanted a make a little guide, collaboratively, for others potentially.

Since the goal is budget (let's say $4k) and it's a daily driver which is tracked infrequently, I and many others would want to keep our 18" Aero wheels.

My thinking is that the critical items are tires, brakes, then suspension (as much as possible).

Tires:
You have to get away from MXM tires. There are more than a few options, but I'm going with Pilot Sport 4s - 245/45/18 (or your preferred size) - $200-220 per (you can almost always find some sort of deal) = call it around $800

Brakes:
Couple options for upgraded pads ($150-375 assuming only changing fronts) & to changing the rotor. And of course upgrade your fluids.

Now comes the rotor dilemma:
MPP had a stock size rotor upgrade for $1k. But for $1370 you could get their Big Brake Kit... but I don't think it can fit the OEM 18" wheels. Is there any option for larger rotors that fit OEM 18" (other than the $4k Brembo setup)?

Do you just upgrade pads and invest in a suspension upgrade? Or do $4k Brembos? Or do the MPP BBK + New wheels? We're over "budget" now with these last 2 options....

So... Do we:
- Spend a couple hundred bucks on brake pads and tires = around $1250 and call it a day?
- Spend the $1250 plus $2,500-3k on suspension (but be bottlenecked by weak brakes)?
- Spend $1400 on pads and MPP stock rotor upgrade, and $800 tires = $2200 Do you leave it here or try to spend $1800 on suspension?
- Spend $1700 on MPP brake upgrade and $1500ish on wheels and $800 on tires = $4k and NO suspension changes?

Give me your feedback! Obviously if you care about track performance you're not going to limit yourself to $4k when just a few grand more can get a set up with less compromises. But it's a thought experiment and exercise in practicality and ROI.

 

[ofcorona]

Your best thing you can upgrade for the track is brakes and tires. Suspension helps for handling and cornering, but the Model 3 has already a good center of gravity.

I would put my money a good set of track tires and brakes. You could fine very good coils for under 800$. I know eibach makes good springs and that a start.

So yes IMO, "Spend a couple hundred bucks on brake pads and tires = around $1250 and call it a day?"

Until you are very serious, then go all out on whole new suspension with brake system.

 

[AltLogic]

If you gave me a $4,000 budget to improve my car I would spend it in the following way:

Tires
Upgraded stock sized rotors
Upgraded bake pads all 4 corners
Sway bars

 

[Chasis]

With 4k budget, IMO you are better off with the following:
New tires, lowering springs, race pads and sway bars.

Now you have a track ready daily driver.

 

[ry-ballz]

You don't want the Pilot sport 4s, you want Pilot sport cups

 

[Puddles]

Just yesterday I asked (begged, pleaded) my tire store to put 245's on my 18" rims, and they wouldn't do it.

If you have any luck doing that, I'd like to know who it is that's willing.

 

[ra88it]

You don't want the Pilot sport 4s, you want Pilot sport cups

You spelled R1R wrong.

 

[ra88it]

I went a bit crazier than you.

18x9.5 squared
265/35/18 R1R
MPP coilovers
MPP BBK and rear 2pc rotors
Rear MPP arms

next will be playing with it, then front MPP arms.

 

[cOoTeR]

You might want to look into adjustable camber and toe. The model 3 destroys the shoulders of the front tires on the track.

 

[Dangerous Fish]

You might want to look into adjustable camber and toe. The model 3 destroys the shoulders of the front tires on the track.

This ^^^

Before blowing a lot of your budget on coilovers, fit some adjustable arms first. That will ensure your nice new track tyres last.

Don't assume you'll need to upgrade the brake claipers or discs straight away. That all depends on your driving (esp. braking) technique and which tracks you intend to go to. You may be OK with just uprated fluid and pads to begin with.

Do it all in stages and you'll be able to see and measure which mods make the most difference.

 

[alsetym]

Track is 80% make tires happy, 19% don't burn the seals out of your calipers. 1% all the rest. If you think you're doing this into the future get the widest rim that is reasonable for you and big enough in diameter to allow for a future caliper spacer to allow heavier rotors. I.e. only buy rim's once. Then camber, caster and sway bars to keep those wide tires from blowing the edges off. Set of hawk pads and elf brake fluid and you're good. Star specs are fantastic on heavier cars (well, my last set was who knows now, tires change so quickly these days) btw but exactly what tire is less important then keeping them happy. I would recommend something with a rounded edge for stock springs.

 

[MasterC17]

I made a guide that may answer some of your questions here: MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

More importantly though, what kind of on-track experience do you have? Have you done HPDE's before? What tracks will you be going to, and how often? The answers to these questions will help dictate the answers. However, the order to do modifications in, in my opinion, are as follows:

• Brake Fluid
• Tires/Wheels
• Brake Pads
• Camber Arms (Front and Rear)
• Coilovers (Springs are a complete waste of money)

I would strongly recommend MPP for your needs.

 

[AltLogic]

MasterC17 has a great list. Now I have to revise my $4,000 budget.

Brake Fluid
Tires
Front stock size rotors with curved vanes
Brake pads all around
Camber arms

 

[BLKMDL3]

I put CUP2 on my P3D+ since it is my daily also. Made a huge difference minus the fact they are loud af. Love em tho. next couple weeks I am upgrading brake pads and maybe rotors, and I already have Unplugged Performance sway bars on.

 

[bondo]

I have a stealth and am trying to do the same BUT i haven't put it on the track yet so i cant really comment on the brakes; we're still locked down out here.

I went with BBK RB 25603-K this allows for you to retrofit the Model S calipers to the Stealth. $1300. + used calipers $300 + Carbotech XP10 pads $200 + Springs $300 + Tires/Rims. Running Yokohama ApexV601 theyre cheap, quiet, decent on mileage but i have my reservations on performance. I'll know more once i can push them safely without being a menace to society. Total is close to your $4K number

 

[kbecks13]

Agree with others that you don't need to upgrade calipers or rotors right away, just get new fluid and pads for the brakes for now. Don't get springs, just save up for coilovers and you'll get a way better product. Sway bars have a ton of impact on body roll and are pretty cheap as well, but you may want to just put that money towards coilovers. Keep in mind coilovers will benefit you every single day you drive the car too!

Ideally you'd have a second set of tires that could be more aggressive, but the PS4S will do fine for occasional tracking and is an awesome daily driving tire.

You don't really need the adjustable camber arms at first and i've seen people get away without them and not have bad tire wear, though it really depends on how you drive and push the car.

Tires = $1K
Brake pads + fluid = $500
Coilovers = $2500

Do itttt

 

[MasterC17]

You don't really need the adjustable camber arms at first and i've seen people get away without them and not have bad tire wear, though it really depends on how you drive and push the car.

This is a good point. If you don't have a lot (or any) track experience Coilovers will get you enough camber that camber arms won't be needed. As you get faster and start pushing the car harder you will eventually need them.

 

[rtanov]

The main problem with tracking the TM3 for me is charging.

I have been planning on tracking my LR RWD ever since I got it more than 2 years ago, and I think i can get plenty of fun with just the brake fluid flush (which I did early 2018), the PS4S's I have, and appropriate pads. However, I cannot see how I can do a full weekend event at the tracks within driving distance from here (Cincinnati) without missing sessions to go and charge the car. E.g. the Mid-Ohio has only 110V outlets (not even 240V!) and the supercharger is 20 min away, so at best I have to miss 3 driving sessions for the weekend. The Corvette track has 240V outlets powerful enough to do adequate L2 charging, and the supercharger is not far, so that might be my best bet, but I'm a bit scared of that track after riding shot gun in my son's track M3.

Anybody know of a reference what charging options are there at the different tracks in the US?

 

[MasterC17]

The main problem with tracking the TM3 for me is charging.

I have been planning on tracking my LR RWD ever since I got it more than 2 years ago, and I think i can get plenty of fun with just the brake fluid flush (which I did early 2018), the PS4S's I have, and appropriate pads. However, I cannot see how I can do a full weekend event at the tracks within driving distance from here (Cincinnati) without missing sessions to go and charge the car. E.g. the Mid-Ohio has only 110V outlets (not even 240V!) and the supercharger is 20 min away, so at best I have to miss 3 driving sessions for the weekend. The Corvette track has 240V outlets powerful enough to do adequate L2 charging, and the supercharger is not far, so that might be my best bet, but I'm a bit scared of that track after riding shot gun in my son's track M3.

Anybody know of a reference what charging options are there at the different tracks in the US?

I have found almost all tracks have 240V outlets, though you may have to ask as they're not usually advertised. Me and another member rigged up HPWC's with 14-50 connectors to pull 45-48 amps from an outlet, which gets you 10kW charging.

More and more tracks are getting Superchargers within a reasonable distance. 20 minutes away is pretty doable, as you generally get 1.5-2 hours between sessions.

I've been consuming about 1,500-1,600 wH/Mi, I imagine a LR RWD would be considerably more efficient, probably in the 1,000 range. Depending on the track, a full session would probably use about 50% of battery life. Drive to the supercharger and charge for 30-40 minutes and drive back. It would be a pain but not a huge one.

 

[ra88it]

I have found almost all tracks have 240V outlets, though you may have to ask as they're not usually advertised. Me and another member rigged up HPWC's with 14-50 connectors to pull 45-48 amps from an outlet, which gets you 10kW charging.

More and more tracks are getting Superchargers within a reasonable distance. 20 minutes away is pretty doable, as you generally get 1.5-2 hours between sessions.

I've been consuming about 1,500-1,600 wH/Mi, I imagine a LR RWD would be considerably more efficient, probably in the 1,000 range. Depending on the track, a full session would probably use about 50% of battery life. Drive to the supercharger and charge for 30-40 minutes and drive back. It would be a pain but not a huge one.

I look forward to joining the 1.5kW/mi club.

Meats have arrived, time to install.