Yeah I was aiming at the long range but it meant $6K more plus a higher sales tax rate as it would be > 50K car. For my daily use a SR would really be more than enough and with the new battery I heard you can charge daily to 100% with no problem so actually getting more range. The AWD option is neat but EVs generally handle winter driving better given the lower center of gravity (battery is down there) and AWD does not negate the need for winter tires which are a must for driving in snow. So, I guess all in all, the RW SR model 3 for me made more sense financially and practically !Yes, the Long Range is a better car (I have one) but dollar for dollar (and euro for euro) the standard Model 3 is excellent value
The government subsidy is greater and the new battery should be good and the car is a technological tour de force with outstanding performance..........but if you can push the budget get a Long Range (with white interior
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Buying a model 3 in 2022. Is it worth it?
- Thread starter ahmedshawky82
- Start date
My exact sentiment. Explaining to my wife though is a little hard
Even when I was at the Tesla sales showroom they were pushing me to get the standard M3....and they and you are correct, it’s the sensible choice....and it’s a great car that you will really enjoy
After many years my wife understands that boys need toys...no matter how old the boy isMy exact sentiment. Explaining to my wife though is a little hard
Plenty of non-Tesla EVs have "ordinary" door handles. There are also less complicated and more reliable ways of designing flush door handles if the last bit of aerodynamic improvement is desired (e.g. Model 3/Y, though the tradeoff there can be ease-of-use by those with hand mobility issues compared to the common grab-handle type).Yup for sure the early S as a whole was beta and less reliable than a Toyota. Not just the EV drivetrain. Though the complicated pop-out door handles are part of its EV efficiency story...I think it's fair to label them an EV problem.
Any Model 3 is a good choice. The way things are going, in a year your car may be worth the same or more than purchase price.
My son just had the same thoughts with placing his order. My 18 M3P currently sees 286miles at 100%, and has been steading at that for some time now. So a current SR at 256miles at 100% is not far off.
I would suggest not charging to 100% on regular basis, although there is suppose to be some safe guards in place now for doing that. I keep my car in the 50-70% range for daily use and will do 100% before a trip. That's the only time I go to 100%.
Right on, my thoughts exactly. Just turned 70 and if the Plaid had a real steering wheel, I'd trade my 18 M3 steath for one. After 50+ years of driving I don't want to grab air when I'm trying to avoid some idiot on a cell phone.
After many years my wife understands that boys need toys...no matter how old the boy is
🏎Yeah I was going to do the same thing especially for my non demanding daily use. They do recommend charging the new battery to 100% at least once a week though so I can live with that.
RedWhite19
Member
I’ve heard otherwise on the handling. People say the SR+ handles better because it is significantly lighter than the LR.
CheapBastid
Member
Do you know if the LFP SR+ is that much lighter than the LR?
My initial look showed the LFP SR+ is listed as 1,745kg whereas the LR is 1,836kg.
Tesla's website shows them even closer (172lbs difference).
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I hope you spent lots of time looking at other options as well; Kia EV 6, Polestar 2, VW, to name a few, they also qualify for the $7500 tax credit.. Lots of options out there now; But it’s up to you to decide what’s best for your lifestyle and contentment.
RedWhite19
Member
I’m not 100% sure. Watching this video, a SR+ driver states that the LR is about 400 pounds heavier than the SR+. The ones prior to 2022RWD, I.e. SR,SR+ are quicker than the 2022’s(By quite a bit to be honest). The video about the handling starts around 3:07.
CheapBastid
Member
From the poster of the video in the comments:
Destiny1701
22’ M3LR ‘DrkNite’/ 22’ MYP BliueRocket
I had an Aug 2021 sr+ and now as of Jan 2022 an LR…and can say 100% the LR handles better. More sure footed as well.
Not sure why maybe better weight distribution with dual..
Not saying the SR didn’t handle nicely to begin with. Non lfp by the way so 5.5 sec.
Not sure why maybe better weight distribution with dual..
Not saying the SR didn’t handle nicely to begin with. Non lfp by the way so 5.5 sec.
RedWhite19
Member
I agree. I wouldn’t want the 5.8 second RWD. I don’t care about the extra range. The price gap has shrunk quite a bit. When I picked up my 2020 SR+ in August of 2020, there was a 10k difference from the SR+ and the LR. I didn’t need the range and still don’t. Maybe if the prices were closer back then maybe but I did aright. A few months later, I was fortunate enough to pick up at SRMY at its lowest point 39,990(Before taxes and 1k for a shipping).
As for future RWD owners who care about the 0-60 times and don’t care about the range, you probably want to get a used SR+.
As this video shows that the SR+ is much faster than the RWD. Video starts around 1:12.
My understanding is the more time the LFP battery spends at 100%, the better. In other words you should always charge an LFP car to 100% overnight at home.
(Unless logistics don't allow for it occasionally, then don't sweat it of course.)
The old lighter NCA RWD cars should have a fundamental handling advantage over the dual motor cars. Whether the stock suspension capitalized on that is another story, but if you're super concerned about handling on these cars, you're probably not staying with the stock suspension anyways, it has pretty poor damping and body control when pushed hard (at least 2021 LR and P).
LFP RWD cars are almost as heavy as dual motor cars. Their weight distribution is probably still slightly more rearward than AWD cars, but I doubt it's enough to make much/any real difference. LFP has real advantages over NCA for daily driving but it's strictly worse for handling and performance. Everything's a tradeoff!
(Unless logistics don't allow for it occasionally, then don't sweat it of course.)
The old lighter NCA RWD cars should have a fundamental handling advantage over the dual motor cars. Whether the stock suspension capitalized on that is another story, but if you're super concerned about handling on these cars, you're probably not staying with the stock suspension anyways, it has pretty poor damping and body control when pushed hard (at least 2021 LR and P).
LFP RWD cars are almost as heavy as dual motor cars. Their weight distribution is probably still slightly more rearward than AWD cars, but I doubt it's enough to make much/any real difference. LFP has real advantages over NCA for daily driving but it's strictly worse for handling and performance. Everything's a tradeoff!
Compare to the cost increase of gas cars in the same timeframe.
Same goes for gas prices. $4+ per gallon versus under $2.50 during the preceding era in our history is a big difference.
I’d rather give Uncle Elon $8k more than give some slimebag dealership $8k more.
If you are in the USA, wrote your congressman or congressmanwoman, and pressure them to resume the proposed build back Brandon plan, and get your $8k back via tax credit.
Or wait longer and get left behind while prices get even more silly. It’s your call. Smart money loves debt during inflation.
Same goes for gas prices. $4+ per gallon versus under $2.50 during the preceding era in our history is a big difference.
I’d rather give Uncle Elon $8k more than give some slimebag dealership $8k more.
If you are in the USA, wrote your congressman or congressmanwoman, and pressure them to resume the proposed build back Brandon plan, and get your $8k back via tax credit.
Or wait longer and get left behind while prices get even more silly. It’s your call. Smart money loves debt during inflation.
