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Can anyone confirm parts needed for amp install as of April 2023?

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I have a 2020 Model 3 SR, no rear sub. Im craving low end.
Ive read thread after thread and understand that i should be tapping 12v constant at the penthouse, and using a relay + resistor but this is where information is a bit all over the place. resistor ive seen suggested 100w and anywhere from 1-5 ohms, and relays ive seen some small, some 80amp, and some suggesting 200amp only. Can anyone definitively break down what parts are recommended to avoid any errors, killing batteries/penthouse?

how about 12v switched? is VC_Right still good? ive read that should turn on when the brake is pressed and turn off when you leave the drivers seat? Honestly for 12v switched, im considering an actual switch to ensure the amps are for sure off when im not in the car. It a pain in the ass, but this way i should be able to have 100% certainty the amps should not have any affect on the electrical system until i turn them on right? If i do this, and wait until im say actually in drive to turn the switch would i even really need the resistor/relay? I suppose its better to have those as an additional precaution either way.
 
I have a theory that some of the amplifiers that say they are tolerant of start/stop ICE engines may have a slightly different power supply front end, this could make the problem worse, but there's a good chance it could make it better. I have a Kicker Key 500.1 on order to put this theory to the test. If you use a large class AB or large class D amp you may have to follow the steps in the post you linked. I'll post the results after I get the amplifier installed and have run it for a while.
 
I have a theory that some of the amplifiers that say they are tolerant of start/stop ICE engines may have a slightly different power supply front end, this could make the problem worse, but there's a good chance it could make it better. I have a Kicker Key 500.1 on order to put this theory to the test. If you use a large class AB or large class D amp you may have to follow the steps in the post you linked. I'll post the results after I get the amplifier installed and have run it for a while.
This was one of the amps I was considering anyway due to its size and its built in bass rolloff correction. I currently have a 500w Alpine AB amp in my ICE car i was considering moving over, but the kicker amp feels like it may be safer with modern electronics.
 
I bought a JL audio 10w7. but I got scared to install it bc I don't know what amp I should buy and the entire installation process. I would told not to buy any of jl audio amps and to buy the one they sold. total cost to install would be $3000. I need help!
 
I used the install thread from the 'other' site, with a 3500w RMS amp (Big Ben) / large sub (Fi audio) and it worked great for 4+ years in a 2018 M3P (rearview mirror did break, though).

I used the resistor / wiring instructions from the other site. I also have extra resistors. Where are you located? Anyone local in DFW is welcome to a resistor.

Resistors I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPCX181/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the SSR relay was harder to find and costs more, but it was worth it to me to not have any problems.

This set up was recently installed in our 2023, but haven't put any miles on it yet.
 
I bought a JL audio 10w7. but I got scared to install it bc I don't know what amp I should buy and the entire installation process. I would told not to buy any of jl audio amps and to buy the one they sold. total cost to install would be $3000. I need help!
I did the install, and did a write up here
 
Just FYI to everyone reading this: huge difference in requirements between 'full'/'premium' sound systems and the lower tiers.

if you care about music quality and aren't going to do everything on your own, just go with a LR (or whichever cheapest model has premium audio)
 
Just FYI to everyone reading this: huge difference in requirements between 'full'/'premium' sound systems and the lower tiers.

if you care about music quality and aren't going to do everything on your own, just go with a LR (or whichever cheapest model has premium audio)
The LR was not available for almost an entire year... many needed to get the RWD version if they didn't want to pay up $10-12k+ for the performance version.
 
The LR was not available for almost an entire year... many needed to get the RWD version if they didn't want to pay up $10-12k+ for the performance version.
ok. i thought performance was the best deal, so would recommend that route, vs getting a RWD and then spending 4-7k more than a comparable LR/P would to get similar audio system performance.