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Can I install a dashcam tapping the mic power?

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by disillusioned, May 3, 2016.

  1. disillusioned

    disillusioned Member

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    I think the answer is "no," based on what I'm seeing in other posts, but here's a photo of the wires under the microphone/speaker panel in the roof of the car. (Delivered Dec. '15.)

    Am I missing the constant 12V "extra" harness for tapping from up here? If so, do I have to tap in to the fuse box or OBD instead?

    Thanks! 2016-05-02 15.06.13.jpg
     
  2. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

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    NO! It will work temporarily until you overheat the board in the car. It is an expensive repair!!
     
  3. disillusioned

    disillusioned Member

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    To be clear, if I had the extra harness, I'd be fine, but here I'd be tapping off something not meant to handle 12V constantly?
     
  4. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

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    The mike reference will not handle the amperage necessary. IMO run an accessory line from the center console 12V adapter (used to be called cigarette lighter) to be safe for 12V while the car is on. There are other threads for Constant 12V.
     
    • Informative x 1
  5. gocken2

    gocken2 Model S: P6931

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    your pic shows the extra connector taped down in the center
     
    • Informative x 1
  6. disillusioned

    disillusioned Member

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    Hahahahaha, the lighting was so bad in there that I didn't even check under the tape. It's funny, when I was reviewing the photo when I posted, I was like "huh, is that a wire at the top?" but disregarded it because I thought it was supposed to be loose.

    Stupid.
     
  7. BriansBucketList

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    I've been agonizing over using the constant power connector. I have a S70D made in February. Service Center company line, it might void warranty. Rumor- it might run down 12v battery. My logic: I have he HD audio, with. 550 watt amp blasting tunes and the air conditioning on, after I put it in park, and I've sat in it for an hour. No 12v battery messages. When I'm parked, seems like the dual cams would use a fraction of the combined amp and A/C loading, and people seem to do it. This seems like the easiest way to get constant 12v to the camera area.

    Has anyone had a problem (preferably anyone with HD audio and dual dashcams had a problem using constant power for a dashcam ?
     
  8. auger

    auger Member

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    And a few of blond hairs. You must have a Golden Retriever. That sh** gets everywhere . . .
     
  9. disillusioned

    disillusioned Member

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    Oh god! Howwwwwwww?

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. disillusioned

    disillusioned Member

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    Best as I've been able to tell, there are a few people who went with the spare connector and have had no problems at all. My understanding is that the draw from the dualcam is incredibly low, especially if you enable "parking" mode (where it's vibration activated, if your cam supports that).
     
  11. JPP

    JPP Active Member

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    We have dual Blackvues in both of our S (see below) tapped into the connector in the headliner you have taped down. The current draw is pretty trivial, and the 12v is recharged automatically by the DC-to-DC converter. No worries. No need for PowerMagic or a switched circuit. Even if you do not use Parking Mode (not sure why you would not) you really won't be able to kill the 12v battery.
     
  12. f-stop

    f-stop Member

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    fyi the Blackvue DR650GW-2CH spec says power consumption is "4.8W max, varies depending on WiFi usage" - i.e. 400mA max. in Parking Mode, with lower bit-rate capture I'd expect less current
     
  13. BriansBucketList

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    Thanks for weighing in- since I have the spare connector, I think I'll go that route. Plan B is a 12v power brick, but I have a huge power brick (70KW) under my car. Be seen so many good videos from the Blackvue 650, Hats my first choice. Amazon reviews seem to moly a high failure rate, but I try to look at that stuff with a lot of suspicion that there are a lot of shills out there.
     

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