Nope, it won't let you hit the button to release the e-brake unless your in the seat with your foot on the brake.
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efxjim
Member
Need a special mode to turn off and leave in neutral. I would call it car wash mode. Then I won't have to ride through the local hand wash. Also needed is camping mode. There is no way to leave the car on for more than 1 hour. I spent last weekend huddled in my sleeping bag trying to stay warm. It got down to 32 degrees:scared:That can be tough on a Kalifornian. So I propose a camping mode that leaves the climate control on continuously.
I just had 2 wheels repaired on my wife's lease return for $75 each. Standard alloys, not painted, but still, they were done in 20 mins, and I cannot see where the damage was at all, I'm very impressed. This was a mobile service too.
You have to choose Off after going into Neutral. Or not opening the door (i.e. going into neutral via an open driver or passenger window) works.
I thought the first option was literally in the manual. Maybe I just dreamt that up.
Page 3:
Also page 30:
It is in the manual. It doesn't work (well, it doesn't work consistently).
The Tesla guy on the phone sat on the phone in a Model S on his end and had the exact same problem. If you walk through the sequence and it's all powered off, then you open the door to get out everything comes back on and the parking brake sets again.
There is, as I noted, a small window of time after it blanks the screen and starts to shut down to escape the car quickly and not wake it back up. When I switched rear wheels installing the alloygators, I had to try 3 times to get the timing right to power off and get out so it wouldn't wake up again and set the e-brake.
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Which software version do you have? I had 4.2 as did the Tesla rep.
Edit: I just went downstairs and tried to film it with my iPad, but apparently I failed to get the video to record for some reason and I'm not motivated to try it again. I got in the car, set the suspension to very high, then jack, then turn off the e-brake via the GUI then turn off the car. I waited until I heard everything power down (there are some clicks and such), then opened my door to get out of the car and everything fired back up and set the e-brake.
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Yea, same here. Another mystery I guess. I'm glad it's working the way it's supposed to for you though.
I'm even more glad it didn't work for the Tesla rep I was talking to so he didn't think I was crazy
kvietor
Model S VIN 168
Just had mine done as well. Paid $150 and I really have to look closely to see where the repair is. The specialist came to my house and was done within an hour. The other 2 hours was spent talking about Tesla.:smile: Considering the cost of a new rim, I thought the price was reasonable.
Alloy Wheel Repair Specialists | The World's Largest Mobile Wheel Repair Company
Just a quick note though...Yea, same here. Another mystery I guess. I'm glad it's working the way it's supposed to for you though.
I'm even more glad it didn't work for the Tesla rep I was talking to so he didn't think I was crazy
I have provided (as part of a larger feedback response) that they need to include a physical release for Neutral in the future (and ideally offer a retrofit for existing owners). When both batteries are low (well the 12V drained and the pack below 4% or so), you're forced to find a way to get it on a flatbed while in Park. A very not good thing.
Alternatively, you can "hot jump" (from a running vehicle) the 12V battery with someone sitting in the driver seat to keep the car in Neutral. A jump pack isn't strong enough.
This is about the only part of Mr. Broder's story that I give some credence.
kvietor
Model S VIN 168
Here's the deal, be sure to leave the driver's door open when powering down in the jack mode and car is in neutral . Then when you exit and close the door, the car will stay powered down and in neutral. It will remain like that until you open the door again. At that time the car will come alive and set the parking brake. I spent an entire day with the Allstate Roadside Assistance folks demonstrating that. They are the ones that handle the calls for towing the Model S. Their call center people needed to explain the procedure to tow drivers and I was willing to give them some hands on experience with my S.
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
Can't really say. Mine are still in the package in the giant pile of accessories for the MS. However, my guess is they don't look nearly as bad scratched as a 900 dollar wheel does.
they come with a tool to scrape plastic burrs off of them. from the video it like it was relatively easy to maintain a decent appearance.
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
rbergquist
S946 - VIN 1017 & M3 2327
Just thought I'd give a little report back on the gators. at the end of the day the gators blend in well and take a lot of worry off my mind, particularly when my wife drives the car (sorry honey!). they allow one to enjoy the beauty and performance of the turbine 21" wheels without having to drive around on "egg shells" so much. They seem to be very well thought out, engineered and made of a durable plastic and they come with a tool to clean off rough edges when curbed.
since the thought of installing them was daunting to me and there are undoubtedly others like me on this forum, I figured I'd share the steps I took to install them to give you an idea of what is involved (apply at your own risk, actual mileage may vary!):
1. purchased a decent floor jack.
2. located the 4 designated spots just proximal to each wheel well, after reading the manual so as to avoid damaging the batteries.
3. used a neoprene pad between the jack pad and car contact point because, well, I've never owned a car this nice before and it seemed like a good idea.
4. assembled all 4 of the gators with glued clips before beginning the actual application to the tire. dealing with the supplied glue, which seemed to be super glue, is a bit messy but it seems to do the job quite well. I took special care in avoiding getting it on the visible surface of the gator, otherwise it stays there permanently.
5. read the manual about jacking the car, put the car in "jack" mode to prevent the air shocks from over pressurizing, as they will continue to try and adjust as you raise the car, even when the car is off, which can apparently end in injury, dismemberment, death or worse...
6. left the key fob away from the car so as not to turn it on while the tires where deflated (per manufacturer's recommendation by phone), saving a trip to have the pressure sensors recalibrated.
7. jacked each tire, one at a time, depressurizing the tire completely.
8. applied gator using a rubber mallet. I think a rubber coated metal mallet would have been faster and less work, maybe 5 lbs. it took quite a bit of force and a lot of repetition, I had to take breaks and I'm in almost decent shape. my biggest concern before attempting was about whether I would be able to tell if I had gotten them on all the way. in actuality I found it to be pretty obvious and decided that when I could barely fit my finger nail between the rim and the gator, I was done. it looked identical to the picture that comes in the instructions and on the web site, which helped me be confident. the video on the web site is very helpful. once at the end, it was easy to measure and trim the gator with some flower shears. applying the last bit of glue on the tab at the end and quickly aligning it to the teeth was a bit tricky on one, as I didn't have much time to get it right before the glue grabed. One did not align properly and had to be pried apart the next day and re-glued... not a big deal but worth trying to avoid.
9. After each install I re-pressurized the tire to about 5 lbs over spec, to account for cooling, followed by a last round of hammering.
10. after waiting an hour to check for leaks, I tested each wheel. since they had cooled, I only had to let a few lbs out to get to spec and it turned out to be much easier than adding more air. once I was sure the gators were on with a good seal, I applied the final gap cover with glue and went for a ride.
the process took me several hours, but that's because I was using a floor jack for the first time, requiring a bit of reading up on it's use. also had to read up on the car's manual since it was a first time using a jack on our brand new prized possession, knowing the batteries might be vulnerable to a poorly placed jack. It undoubtedly took a while also because I am one of those people who reads and reareads instructions several times to make sure I'm not missing anything before taking on what I perceive to be a somewhat high stakes task... the high value of the wheels, the tires, the car, my and my familie's life all weighing a bit on me, you know, having never done anything like this before.
Now that I have applied the gators myself I feel pretty confident that they do not go deep enough on the inside of the rim to compromise the integrity of the seal, but of course everyone has to decide for themselves what they are comfortable with.
having done this has helped me get to know the car more and feel more confident about my abilities to perform basic stuff on it, particularly as I am still contemplating getting the 19" turbine wheels and all weather tires for the winter months as the slick wet roads here put a bit of a damper on the acceleration fun when using summer performance tires. I am hoping that someone comes out with all weather tires for 21" wheels sooner than later.
since the thought of installing them was daunting to me and there are undoubtedly others like me on this forum, I figured I'd share the steps I took to install them to give you an idea of what is involved (apply at your own risk, actual mileage may vary!):
1. purchased a decent floor jack.
2. located the 4 designated spots just proximal to each wheel well, after reading the manual so as to avoid damaging the batteries.
3. used a neoprene pad between the jack pad and car contact point because, well, I've never owned a car this nice before and it seemed like a good idea.
4. assembled all 4 of the gators with glued clips before beginning the actual application to the tire. dealing with the supplied glue, which seemed to be super glue, is a bit messy but it seems to do the job quite well. I took special care in avoiding getting it on the visible surface of the gator, otherwise it stays there permanently.
5. read the manual about jacking the car, put the car in "jack" mode to prevent the air shocks from over pressurizing, as they will continue to try and adjust as you raise the car, even when the car is off, which can apparently end in injury, dismemberment, death or worse...
6. left the key fob away from the car so as not to turn it on while the tires where deflated (per manufacturer's recommendation by phone), saving a trip to have the pressure sensors recalibrated.
7. jacked each tire, one at a time, depressurizing the tire completely.
8. applied gator using a rubber mallet. I think a rubber coated metal mallet would have been faster and less work, maybe 5 lbs. it took quite a bit of force and a lot of repetition, I had to take breaks and I'm in almost decent shape. my biggest concern before attempting was about whether I would be able to tell if I had gotten them on all the way. in actuality I found it to be pretty obvious and decided that when I could barely fit my finger nail between the rim and the gator, I was done. it looked identical to the picture that comes in the instructions and on the web site, which helped me be confident. the video on the web site is very helpful. once at the end, it was easy to measure and trim the gator with some flower shears. applying the last bit of glue on the tab at the end and quickly aligning it to the teeth was a bit tricky on one, as I didn't have much time to get it right before the glue grabed. One did not align properly and had to be pried apart the next day and re-glued... not a big deal but worth trying to avoid.
9. After each install I re-pressurized the tire to about 5 lbs over spec, to account for cooling, followed by a last round of hammering.
10. after waiting an hour to check for leaks, I tested each wheel. since they had cooled, I only had to let a few lbs out to get to spec and it turned out to be much easier than adding more air. once I was sure the gators were on with a good seal, I applied the final gap cover with glue and went for a ride.
the process took me several hours, but that's because I was using a floor jack for the first time, requiring a bit of reading up on it's use. also had to read up on the car's manual since it was a first time using a jack on our brand new prized possession, knowing the batteries might be vulnerable to a poorly placed jack. It undoubtedly took a while also because I am one of those people who reads and reareads instructions several times to make sure I'm not missing anything before taking on what I perceive to be a somewhat high stakes task... the high value of the wheels, the tires, the car, my and my familie's life all weighing a bit on me, you know, having never done anything like this before.
Now that I have applied the gators myself I feel pretty confident that they do not go deep enough on the inside of the rim to compromise the integrity of the seal, but of course everyone has to decide for themselves what they are comfortable with.
having done this has helped me get to know the car more and feel more confident about my abilities to perform basic stuff on it, particularly as I am still contemplating getting the 19" turbine wheels and all weather tires for the winter months as the slick wet roads here put a bit of a damper on the acceleration fun when using summer performance tires. I am hoping that someone comes out with all weather tires for 21" wheels sooner than later.
spatterso911
P100DL - Raven
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
Thanks Monkey. Very thorough. I'm curious about the glue on clips. The videos I've seen don't have sound. What are they trying to say as far as spacing on the clips? Is this obvious?Or, does it take some thought? Did you have to pound so hard that the car shook on the jack? Did that ever concern you?
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