While the car was plugged in for routine charging overnight (battery was at ~30%), a software update occurred. In the morning I saw the 'software update completed' notification. When I pressed the handle of the passenger side door, it opened a crack, but after that the car went dead: didn't respond to the key, nor could the app talk to it. Roadside assistance sent a tow truck. After jump starting the 12V battery for just a minute or so the attached errors and warnings popped up. Couple of minutes later I was able to start the car and back it out of the garage. It's at service right now, but I am curious if the gurus on this forum have seen anything similar or have any insights. Thank you!
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Car dead after successful software update
- Thread starter srflipflop
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- battery dead software update
Some part of the update actually failed, and on s/x cars when you have a canbus component version mismatch, the contactors are not allowed to close to support the 12V battery (that's the GTW_f209/f210 error), so it was ventually bled dry and as you opened the door it increased the current draw on already marginally discharged 12V battery making the voltage drop below target (GTW_w157)(count your lucky starts you did not let it sit there like that a few hours longer) and died.
They'd bring the car in sync, but make sure they replace 12V battery as well - Tesla uses super cheap 12V batteries that die after first full discharge (they don't die right away, but within a few weeks). While their toolbox article says the warnings don't mean the 12V battery is bad, and it probably was not bad, it is highly likely now bad (it depends on how low it dropped, I guess, but low enough for the system not to restart after the load easened)
They'd bring the car in sync, but make sure they replace 12V battery as well - Tesla uses super cheap 12V batteries that die after first full discharge (they don't die right away, but within a few weeks). While their toolbox article says the warnings don't mean the 12V battery is bad, and it probably was not bad, it is highly likely now bad (it depends on how low it dropped, I guess, but low enough for the system not to restart after the load easened)
Thank you Steinmetz, and verygreen. The detailed analysis from verygreen makes a lot of sense. But it's a horrible bug in itself to notify me of a software update 'completed' if a part of it actually failed, drained the 12V battery completely, and rendered the car undrivable. Wow.
Or, if the 12V battery just failed, and software update is unrelated, it is still very concerning that it failed so abruptly without any warning. Could leave you stranded....
Or, if the 12V battery just failed, and software update is unrelated, it is still very concerning that it failed so abruptly without any warning. Could leave you stranded....
Update: they found that the electrical terminals on the e-fuse module needed to be tightened ("torqued"), which they did, and also replaced the e-fuse module and the 12V battery itself 
Still not clear if and how the software update is related to this. If the root cause of battery drain is something else, it's bad that it failed suddenly without any warning.
Still not clear if and how the software update is related to this. If the root cause of battery drain is something else, it's bad that it failed suddenly without any warning.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Electronic, resettable fuse. Instead of vaporizing bits of metal and having to be replaced afterwards, changes its internal resistance to something huge for a period of time, cutting off current. After the period of time, which I think varies by make, model, and capacity, it goes back to being a short again. Ta-Da! Don’t have to carry a collection of fuses in the glove box.
Exactly same errors occurred to my LR+ yesterday evening. Only difference was that the Update initially failed installing after downloading. Went back to the car and restarted the Update. It then was stuck at 50% downloading. Waiting for some time took my chances by rebooting and then the entire system seemed to collapse with same error messages popping and care went almost dead ie in coma only basic functions like electric doors and internal lightening. It appeared online in the app few times. Today Tesla towed the car to SC and wait for repair probably starts Monday. I’m not sure if it relates to a poor 12V but cannot rule out of course. Reason saying that is electric doors, lights etc where still functioning. Will let you know what the outcome is once I have the update.
Interesting! Good luck
(still haven't gotten a root cause explanation for my issue from Tesla service....)
Not sure if it says you much (FW package failed) but the above explanation is given on the invoice by Tesla. Can’t complaint about service level, the speed and timely updates given plus no costs at all albeit car is still within factory warranty no mentioning of any costs.
where us the efuse?Update: they found that the electrical terminals on the e-fuse module needed to be tightened ("torqued"), which they did, and also replaced the e-fuse module and the 12V battery itself
Still not clear if and how the software update is related to this. If the root cause of battery drain is something else, it's bad that it failed suddenly without any warning.
Actually, not all that important. Teslas have e-fuses all over. But, like nearly all fuses (e or non-e), they work on heat.
A loose connection (that's why one needs torque, so it's not loose) is a-gonna generate a lot of heat.
Look at it this way: Put two pieces of metal in incidental contact, just laying up next to each other. From the beginning, there'll probably be a near-short between those two pieces of metal. But metal oxidizes because, well, it's metal and there's oxygen in the air. If one wants to think about it a bit more, your typical air pollution has SOx and NOx in the air, not to mention H20 molecules, and, well, the metal will corrode over time. Corrosion products have more resistance than thin oxides, power gets dissipated in those corrosion products, and the module and e-fuse will get hot. I've seen stuff like this near 12V battery terminals that weren't crimped properly: Stuff got hot enough to actually melt the copper.
Now, when one torques down a pair of conductors (presumably with a bolt going into a screw hole, or a screw, and even with lock washers and the like), the conductive metals are firmly shoved together and, at a microscopic level, mushed into each other (especially with tin), making an air-tight connection, excluding molecules of O2, SOx, NOx, and H20. Done properly, a connection like that can go for decades or even a century before it deteriorates. And heating? Nope.
Don't know why they changed out the battery, unless it got discharged during all the fun. A fully discharged 12V battery isn't long for this world, so maybe they did this as a preventative. (As in, Get Out! And Don't Come Back!
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