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gateway reboot dos not help (I tried), you really need to reboot cebtral body module and there's no user-visible way to do it short of power cycleOne trick I use to force a full boot is to change your wheel size to something else and then back.
The power down does not seem to power down, but it makes lots of clunks like it's doing a full reboot when you change wheel size.
Takes a while too.
gateway reboot dos not help (I tried), you really need to reboot cebtral body module and there's no user-visible way to do it short of power cycle
that's the thing that reboots after you change gateway config that stores wheel type and other stuff.Gateway?
Yesterday I changed my wheel size (because I changed my wheels). It resulted in a full reboot.gateway reboot dos not help (I tried), you really need to reboot cebtral body module and there's no user-visible way to do it short of power cycle
Yesterday I changed my wheel size (because I changed my wheels). It resulted in a full reboot.
This was in my 2019 Model X LR with 2020.32.2.
that's if you have dead battery, this is different because the doors still open fine from teh fob andsuch. The problem is the module inside the car that determines if the fob is inside is in a bad state and needs a reset. there's an internal aleart about it that regular people cannot see but since I had this same issue on my car - I know what the problem really is.What happens if you hold the key in the special place in the center console, and press the brake?
The manual has a picture of the location.
Both screens went black, power to the vehicle turned off completely, everything remained completely black for what seemed like 2 minutes or longer, then gradually the screens and vehicle came back to life. It was much different than simply rebooting the two screens while the vehicle remained on.I don't know what you mean by a "full reboot". I rebooted gateway (same thing as if you change the wheel type) when I met the problem and it did not help with the vccsec in bad state. I had to send a manual "reset bccen" command.
sounds like a normal gw reboot to me that you can achieve with a brake pedal pressed and the two scroll-wheels on mcu2 car.Both screens went black, power to the vehicle turned off completely, everything remained completely black for what seemed like 2 minutes or longer, then gradually the screens and vehicle came back to life. It was much different than simply rebooting the two screens while the vehicle remained on.
This was helpful, thank you! Hopefully my car will restart and I won’t have to wait for Roadside Assistance!One trick I use to force a full boot is to change your wheel size to something else and then back.
The power down does not seem to power down, but it makes lots of clunks like it's doing a full reboot when you change wheel size.
Takes a while too.
Did you got any help? Do you have airbags issues? Have you tried to run BMS on toolbox3? I got a drive/reverse issue on a ms2020 with Tesla Part # 1057356-00-B.So I have a dreaded 2020 SALVAGED/UNSUPPORTED Tesla Model S 25k miles that was in a minor front right collision. I got Tesla SC to program a key for me and all body repairs have been easy. Long story short, all 12V controls work and HV charges the 12V battery. HV battery will charge when the car is off, but as soon as I turn the car, the rear drive unit/inverter makes a distinct humming noise (not normal) and I can't get the car to put itself into drive/reverse. I have 100+ errors on toolbox 3, most of which will fix themselves once I can get the car to drive but the most concerning ones to me are the mia's and bms not communicating. 12V Pyrofuse has been replaced and fuse on the bottom passenger side of the battery has been tested to be fine. I've tried to hire Electrified Garage for tech support but can't get in for a week. I'm stuck and need advice what could be keeping me from geting the car to go into drive. I've done all of the resets about 100 times. In Kansas City. Willing to pay for knowledgeable help.