Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Carbon Brake Discs

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Hi I started this thread ages ago and it quickly veered off into a carbon brake pad discussion about carbontech pads. I am interested to discuss if anyone has gone the carbon disc route with their car. My reasons for this are here
1, they don't seem prohibitively expensive at £3000 for the front (incl 4 pot calipers) and £2000 for the rear (using stock calipers).
2, they will reduce the unsprung weight of the car and improve handling.
3, the reduction in unsprung weight will improve the 0-60 of the car in theory.
4, the reduction of unsprung weight will improve the efficiency of the car and could improve range slightly.
5, braking performance will be improved
6, they will suit the supercar status of the car.
7, they should last the lifetime of the car.
8, improved efficiency and reduced unsprung weight could also reduce temps slightly at the pem,battery and motor.

My question is this, has anyone purchased the freno carbon brake kit and did you notice any improvements as listed above? By how much?

Carbon Front Brake kit (Elise, Exige, 2-Eleven) [FREFRCDP] - €3,245.00 : Elise Shop, Performance parts for your Lotus Elise
 
Last edited:
Unless your racing the thing constantly, why spend that much dough? Plus the rotor size is a bit smaller than the stock Tesla rotor as MAUTO indicated. Just invest in the custom 2-piece rotor (CRF) group buy, a set of Carbotech brake pads and call it a done deal. Of course more braking is always better, however, I have the braking on the Roadster right where I'm confident, happy and beyond pleased. Since the hat is composed of aluminum, it also reduces un-sprung weight at the wheels. And if you're trying to go after un-sprung weight, I'd first attack that with your wheels (for acceleration/braking rotational weight). If you're trying to reduce the load or make your suspension work more efficient (which reducing un-sprung weigh aids in), I'd put in the MonoBall spiracle bushings before putting down the money for CF rotors. I'd also want ones at least the same size or bigger than what's on there now.

Owners who're running them on the track are happy too. The group buy price is only $1600 dollars (US) and the cost of the pads all the way around. This may be the last round being made as well....

Now Shipping: Custom Tesla Roadster 2-Piece Slotted Rotors
 
Last edited:
Unless your racing the thing constantly, why spend that much dough? Plus the rotor size is a bit smaller than the stock Tesla rotor as MAUTO indicated. Just invest in the custom 2-piece rotor (CRF) group buy, a set of Carbotech brake pads and call it a done deal. Of course more braking is always better, however, I have the braking on the Roadster right where I'm confident, happy and beyond pleased. Since the hat is composed of aluminum, it also reduces un-sprung weight at the wheels. And if you're trying to go after un-sprung weight, I'd first attack that with your wheels (for acceleration/braking rotational weight). If you're trying to reduce the load or make your suspension work more efficient (which reducing un-sprung weigh aids in), I'd put in the MonoBall spiracle bushings before putting down the money for CF rotors. I'd also want ones at least the same size or bigger than what's on there now.

Owners who're running them on the track are happy too. The group buy price is only $1600 dollars (US) and the cost of the pads all the way around. This may be the last round being made as well....

Now Shipping: Custom Tesla Roadster 2-Piece Slotted Rotors
Because if it can be done for under £5000 its worth it as it will improve acceleration, handling, and range a little by improving efficiency. Its also a nice upgrade that will also add value and have function. I like the idea of reducing unsprung weight on the car.
 
Quick question:

My brake pads (BREMBO), rotors and calipers (AP Racing) are Mark WJ's originals from 2011, now 7 years old and have 7mm rear and 4mm left.

I have been in touch with titanium Dave and he’s kindly arranged for a set of rotors and pads if I wish.

As my style of driving is primarily city commuting the 15km each way and given that the pads are still in fairly good shape. one can determine that brakes are rarely used here and we rarely excel 75kph!

As such do you think this combo which is 2200 USD shipped to Hong Kong is overkill?

Ought I just get the pads from Carbotech?

I was wondering what feedback those who had taken the plunge had with this set up?

Some threads refer to rattling, squeaks and that they aren’t that great. Some threads suggest that the Bobcat 1521's are just as good as the AX6's unless one is tracking and racing the car? I am ready to pull the plug but only if it’s a good idea.

If the improvement is largely cosmetic / vanity / weight improvement and only a is a slight improvement with braking (10-20%) then that doesn’t exactly inspire me that it’s money well spent as I’m not a vanity junky.

I’m really looking at safety and practicality.
Feedback much appreciated!

Much appreciated.

Richard
 
Quick question:

My brake pads (BREMBO), rotors and calipers (AP Racing) are Mark WJ's originals from 2011, now 7 years old and have 7mm rear and 4mm left.

I have been in touch with titanium Dave and he’s kindly arranged for a set of rotors and pads if I wish.

As my style of driving is primarily city commuting the 15km each way and given that the pads are still in fairly good shape. one can determine that brakes are rarely used here and we rarely excel 75kph!

As such do you think this combo which is 2200 USD shipped to Hong Kong is overkill?

Ought I just get the pads from Carbotech?

I was wondering what feedback those who had taken the plunge had with this set up?

Some threads refer to rattling, squeaks and that they aren’t that great. Some threads suggest that the Bobcat 1521's are just as good as the AX6's unless one is tracking and racing the car? I am ready to pull the plug but only if it’s a good idea.

If the improvement is largely cosmetic / vanity / weight improvement and only a is a slight improvement with braking (10-20%) then that doesn’t exactly inspire me that it’s money well spent as I’m not a vanity junky.

I’m really looking at safety and practicality.
Feedback much appreciated!

Much appreciated.

Richard
Hi Richard,

For what it's worth, my brakes (rotors, pads) are as far as I know original, and I still have a lot of life left in them (something like 7mm) even after 45k miles. But I've got a new set on order from Dave. The reason is that the stock rotors rust up so quickly when they get wet that the first stop or two afterward can be far too "exciting." It takes a good hard stop to scrape the rust off the rotors before they actually grab, and even without the rust, a hard stop can take a lot more pedal pressure than one would expect.

So, if safety is what you're after, and if you don't live in the desert, I think it is money well spent just for the peace of mind.

As for what specifically you should get from Dave, I'm going by what he recommended to me. I don't know brakes other than when they don't work.