FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
I would suggest 8.5" width front wheels and 9" rear with a 35mm offset on all. If you want to rotate your tires go with 8.5" all around... hope this helps.
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Carbon Fiber Rims
- Thread starter AngelArm1110
- Start date
I would suggest 8.5" width front wheels and 9" rear with a 35mm offset on all. If you want to rotate your tires go with 8.5" all around... hope this helps.
Xeno, any updates on your wheel quest? I admit I'm fascinated by this tech. Reducing unsprung weight to that degree is amazing and I would have killed for that edge when I used to race time trials in my Evo VIII. Though I don't ever think I will track my Model S, the implications are still fascinating.
imagine what would happen if not only the wheels was changed to carbon, but also the brake rotors was replaced with carbon.
unsprung rotating mass would go even further down.
the specail model s called saleen does ships with carbon brakeing discs, so it must be posible to have then replaced.
unsprung rotating mass would go even further down.
the specail model s called saleen does ships with carbon brakeing discs, so it must be posible to have then replaced.
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Carbon carbon rotors are crazy expensive and take forevers to make. They are available on many supercars, at great expense.
imho, the future of Ev brakes is 100% electric. Do away with the mechanical system completely, more or less. Either fit a very undersized mechanical system capable of emergency stopping the car in the event of otherwise catastrophic systems failure...or implement some other one time emergency braking system, similar to seatbelts and airbags.
imho, the future of Ev brakes is 100% electric. Do away with the mechanical system completely, more or less. Either fit a very undersized mechanical system capable of emergency stopping the car in the event of otherwise catastrophic systems failure...or implement some other one time emergency braking system, similar to seatbelts and airbags.
sillydriver
Member
I think that's right for braking at normal speeds: the motors can either brake the tires loose or nearly do so at low speeds, so they should be able to nearly lock up the tires on braking at lower speeds, and excess power above what can regenerate the battery can be dumped into a resistive element. The problem comes at high speeds, since the power dissipated by friction brakes is proportional to speed times deceleration. I bet a European braking hard from 120 mph needs the car to dissipate kinetic energy at a rate equivalent to >1000 horsepower (just as accelerating at 1g at 120 mph would require that). Bulking up the motor and cooling systems to do that probably costs more than having friction brakes.
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lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
ERP
Ludicrous Member
This company has been advertising Tesla brake upgrades for some time. http://www.racingbrake.com/
Although it appears their carbon kit is still pre-order only.
The stock rotors are very heavy, here are the numbers.
Stock Rotors:
29.5 lbs front, 28 lbs rear, 115 lbs total
Two Piece Rotors, Steel Disc, Aluminum Hat: $2,200
22.4 lbs front, 17.4 lbs rear, 79.6 lbs total
35.4 lbs savings, $62 per lb
Carbon Rotors and Big Brake Kit: $15,250
13.5 lbs front, 9.7 lbs rear, 46.4 lbs total
68.6 lbs savings, $222 per lb
(From this company the carbon rotors are only available as a big brake kit upgrade, so new larger calipers are also included in the price.)
The carbon rotors are difficult to justify for that price. The steel two piece look much more reasonable. But I would still be very hesitant to put two piece full floating rotors on a Tesla. I have them on my Elise and they make a bit of noise while driving around. The Tesla is so quiet that the noise could be quite pronounced. I would prefer partial floating to full floating for the Tesla.
those carbon rotors seems expensive.
afaik tesla uses bremo brakes, seems like bremo also makes a 2 pice tesla caramic 'grand turismo' kit
at total 7900$ for rear+front.
still expensive, but half the price compared to racingbrake.com
I have not checked what weight savings to expect, and if the kit is suitble for 'clasic' or/and awd model s
afaik tesla uses bremo brakes, seems like bremo also makes a 2 pice tesla caramic 'grand turismo' kit
at total 7900$ for rear+front.
still expensive, but half the price compared to racingbrake.com
I have not checked what weight savings to expect, and if the kit is suitble for 'clasic' or/and awd model s
No doubt, but so would replacing the rear view mirrors with cameras, for instance...and Tesla is pursuing that solution because the the bigger picture is a net benefit. Specifically, they have to put 3-6% (or whatever) fewer [expensive] batteries in a car to go the same distance.
When you fold in the other benefits of 100% electric braking, (streamlined supply chain, vehicle design, and production floor operations, etc...not to mention unknown benefits of a blue sky re-conceptualization of wheels or suspension or whatever) I'd guess the financial impact is actually closer than one might think. I suspect there's no new technology that would need to be invented, just a new implementation of existing technology (like a motor capable of massive output in generator mode, as you noted). And, you know, failsafes. :wink:
Is it realistic today? No. But tomorrow is only a day away. :tongue:
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Can anyone answer the question below for stock 19 inch wheels?
Is this right? OEM specs: 19 x 8 with 5x120 bolt pattern, +40mm offset, 64.1 mm centerbore, hubcentric, M14x1.5 lugs with 170 N/m torque
appreciate you providing us with the necessary specs so that our wheels fit your vehicle as accurately as possible.
Here are the specifications that we need for you to confirm so that we can move forward and provide you with the world’s lightest and strongest wheels in production today:
· Front Wheel Diameter & Width: ? Rear Wheel Diameter & Width: ?
· Front Offset: +40mm? Rear Offset: +40mm?
· Bolt Pattern: ?
· Center Bore: 64.1mm
Please let me know if you have any other questions for me. Once we have the exact specs for your vehicle, are you ready to get the ball rolling today?
Victor Calvo
Sales Coordinator
ESE Industries
O: (877) 213-8662 x706
E: [email protected]
www.esecomposites.com
Please consider the environment before printing th
Is this right? OEM specs: 19 x 8 with 5x120 bolt pattern, +40mm offset, 64.1 mm centerbore, hubcentric, M14x1.5 lugs with 170 N/m torque
appreciate you providing us with the necessary specs so that our wheels fit your vehicle as accurately as possible.
Here are the specifications that we need for you to confirm so that we can move forward and provide you with the world’s lightest and strongest wheels in production today:
· Front Wheel Diameter & Width: ? Rear Wheel Diameter & Width: ?
· Front Offset: +40mm? Rear Offset: +40mm?
· Bolt Pattern: ?
· Center Bore: 64.1mm
Please let me know if you have any other questions for me. Once we have the exact specs for your vehicle, are you ready to get the ball rolling today?
Victor Calvo
Sales Coordinator
ESE Industries
O: (877) 213-8662 x706
E: [email protected]
www.esecomposites.com
Please consider the environment before printing th
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All looks accurate to me except I thought the CB was 64 and then typically the wheel manufactures' machine a 64.1 CB on the wheel for a .1mm clearance (not that .1mm should make a bit of difference though). I am swapping out my 20's tomorrow and am going to awful (but pretty) 21 gray staggards and I will be glad to mic the center hub diam. if you like. Also, might you consider duplicating TSportline's 19x8.5" turbine dimensions (with a 35ET I believe) which will allow a little more rubber with a 255/45-19 for our nearly 2.5 ton beastly street barges? yobig runs this 255 combo on his 19x8.5 and champ runs a similar 255 square combo on 20x9's.
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Roadrunner13
Member
You're correct.
Center Bore is 64mm with wheels done at 64.1mm for 'clearance'.
I also got some 19x8.5 with 35mm offset from Braelin (as opposed to the OEM, 19x8, 40mm offset) and they fit perfectly.
So this is a viable option.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
Schucks! If these CF wheels (which I am drooling over) hold up on Xeno's car (and trust me, his roads are blown up especially after winter) and they bring the price down with Model S/X specific 19 and 20" (screw the 21's!) wheels on a group buy, they may hit home runs, especially with the rich P85DL and P90DL crowd.
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Does the +35 offset move this away from the cv joints or move them closer to the cv joints? (wondering how it affect appearance.)
BTW I did decide to go with the 8.5 width all around to mirror the TST's. I can also provide custom offsets by axle and I trying to go with the most optimal setup. They rep recommended going staggered with 9 in the rear and 8.5 in the fronts with 19's. But I may just stick with 8.5 all around - now just trying to figure out best offset. with the 8.5 width.
BTW I did decide to go with the 8.5 width all around to mirror the TST's. I can also provide custom offsets by axle and I trying to go with the most optimal setup. They rep recommended going staggered with 9 in the rear and 8.5 in the fronts with 19's. But I may just stick with 8.5 all around - now just trying to figure out best offset. with the 8.5 width.
Roadrunner13
Member
Check-out this site, it explains it nicely:
Wheel Offset Calculator | 1010Tires.com Discount Online Tire and Wheel Store
The +35mm offset (as opposed to +40mm) moves the wheel outside by 11mm, i.e. most of the additional .5" (from 8 to 8.5").
It reduces inner clearance by 1mm...nothing significant.
Wheels look good but don't stick out, looks better than OEM without any inconvenience.
Here's two pics that show 8.5" with 35mm offset.
The pics were not meant to show offset originally but they are taken from close enough that you'll see they don't stick out from the top of the wheel well.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I copied this from my post on another thread:
a 20x8.5 40ET provides ~.500" of clearance between the rim and front strut, (remember, the strut angles outboard as it moves downward from the upper a-arm ball joint attaching point to the steering knuckle/hub
1. champ is a real racer around here (my GAUD!! you should see his vid) as I am just a hack
2. Tsportline has indeed done their homework to insure proper fitment and I would be comfortable following their wheel fitment
3. a 35ET will move the wheel mounting surface 5mm outboard (away from the centerline of the vehicle which will be needed as I referenced in my above quote.
4. since the classics and the Ds both "push", deploying staggards is probably unnecessary (champ can speak with a higher degree of specificity/experience than i) and is mostly for looks
5. i have ordered a set of the new gloss gray Tsportline Turbine 20x9s (square wheels, but with staggard tires) as I can't swing your ultimate CFs
6. 19s are definetly the way to go in NOVA and points north IMO
7. if I had the means to purchase CF wheels, I would stick with a square wheel set-up
a 20x8.5 40ET provides ~.500" of clearance between the rim and front strut, (remember, the strut angles outboard as it moves downward from the upper a-arm ball joint attaching point to the steering knuckle/hub
1. champ is a real racer around here (my GAUD!! you should see his vid) as I am just a hack
2. Tsportline has indeed done their homework to insure proper fitment and I would be comfortable following their wheel fitment
3. a 35ET will move the wheel mounting surface 5mm outboard (away from the centerline of the vehicle which will be needed as I referenced in my above quote.
4. since the classics and the Ds both "push", deploying staggards is probably unnecessary (champ can speak with a higher degree of specificity/experience than i) and is mostly for looks
5. i have ordered a set of the new gloss gray Tsportline Turbine 20x9s (square wheels, but with staggard tires) as I can't swing your ultimate CFs
6. 19s are definetly the way to go in NOVA and points north IMO
7. if I had the means to purchase CF wheels, I would stick with a square wheel set-up
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