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Center Touchscreen: Blank Screen of Death

Discussion in 'Model S: User Interface' started by docrice, Nov 19, 2015.

  1. docrice

    docrice Member

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    Bay Area, CA
    After a spray-down at my local car wash bay last night, I was driving home when the center screen locked up. The music was still playing, but nothing would respond to touch. I rebooted with the old double-scrollwheel-hold but the screen never lit up again after going dark. No Tesla logo or anything.

    The instrument cluster wasn't affected, even though I accidentally rebooted that before the touchscreen.

    All touchscreen-managed functions are non-accessible, including AC, seat-heating, rear-window defrosting, etc.. I couldn't even turn on the vent fan or open the sunroof using the steering wheel controls. The car still drove fine so I wasn't panicking. It's actually serene with a dark screen and only the motor/road noise (plus the milling noise that I have going).

    After I got home and plugged the car in, I noticed that the current draw was at 12A, so it wasn't recognizing my normal 11A setting. I had limited functional access via the smartphone app, so while I could monitor charging, I couldn't flash the lights, lock/unlock the car, vent the roof, etc.. Even the trunk button (the one you use to set the hatch opening height) wasn't back-lit, although it functioned.

    Called Tesla support and they had me run through the screen reboot while holding the brake pedal down, but this didn't help. They pulled the logs for the Service Center for review. Haven't gotten a response back from anyone yet.

    This morning I noticed that when I get into the driver's seat and hit the brake pedal, the "Systems are powering on" message appears and I have to wait 30 seconds until pressing the brake actually allows me to put the car in drive. No improvement otherwise. I was hoping some charging would electrically kick the car awake.

    Other things I noticed today while the touchscreen is non-operational: the side mirrors don't fold in, nor tilt downwards when in reverse, nor are parking sensor feedback and Autosteer available (TACC works and the data from sensors are still shown in the instrument cluster). At least I can still manually open the windows.

    Also tried Supercharging today to see if that'll jiggle anything (grasping for straws here). No change. In the evening for a brief moment there was a noise that sounded like a microscopic slice of music looping as if the touchscreen system was trying to claw itself out of a grave by replaying the last bit of sound it was sending to the speakers the night before. It stopped after getting out of the car.

    So that's my interesting experience so far.

    Reference: S85, mid-09/2014 build (one of the first with Autopilot hardware before dual motor was announced), roughly 25k on the odometer.

    Does anyone know whether the hard-reset (pulling a fuse for half a minute, if I recall) is something that should only be done by the trained folks at the Service Center?
     
  2. Lex

    Lex Member

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    Ugh, sounds like a failure to me... they seem to change out the center computer and screen together. Sorry to hear but thanks for the details, I have thought about this scenario a lot since the whole bubbles on touchscreen thing.

    It's only a matter of time and volume until someone starts refurbishing these modules (along with handles and probably eventually DU's -- yikes 25k and milling I am detecting a pattern) and hopefully improving them. So far I'm not happy about parts pricing and packaging I've seen from Tesla. They seem to really want everyone to just keep extending the warranty.
     
  3. S4WRXTTCS

    S4WRXTTCS Active Member

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    Is there a way to do a hard reboot?

    Like with a fuse?
     
  4. jerry33

    jerry33 S85 - VIN:P05130 - 3/2/13

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    I've had it stick like that (never all night). What I've done is (because I don't know what actually fixes it):

    1. Hold the scroll wheels down for some time. (I've found pressing the brake pedal doesn't help)

    2. If I don't see, the "T" after a few minutes, get out of the car (not plugged in) and walk away until it locks.

    3. Get back in the car and press the brake pedal.

    4. If I get the powering up popup, I press the pedal and try a scroll wheel reboot. (the powering up popup never goes away by itself)

    5. At some point the T comes up and the system works normally.

    This started happening in a late v6 build and has continued through v7. What I think is happening is that the boot up sequence has a race condition where it sometimes gets out of order, and you have to get it to sleep enough so that it resets back to the initial start point rather than continue from where it left off.
     
  5. CHG-ON

    CHG-ON Still in love after all these miles

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    I haven't had my screen go down. But I did have a problem with rebooting once. I can't even remember what it was now. Service told me to keep my foot on the brake, especially if the car is plugged in. Apparently the car can go to sleep while rebooting (?). Also, they said to definitely pull any USB sticks out prior to rebooting. I haven't had a problem since.
     
  6. jerry33

    jerry33 S85 - VIN:P05130 - 3/2/13

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    I tried the foot on the brake thing for over five minutes. Didn't do anything.
     
  7. snail3

    snail3 Member

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    it happened to me once few weeks back, hold both scroll wheels while pressing brake pedal worked for me, enter console powered up after about 10s
     
  8. Khatsalano

    Khatsalano Member

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    Just bring it to your service center since you need the safety belts inspected anyway. :)
     
  9. Andyw2100

    Andyw2100 Well-Known Member

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    There have definitely been other threads where service center personnel were talking people through the fuse-pull remotely, so it is not something that only the service center can handle.

    That being said, I'd certainly suggest talking to your SC about it first, but I expect with their assistance, you should be able to give that a shot.
     
  10. Lex

    Lex Member

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    And of course, check all fuses... it's just a car after all :)
     
  11. docrice

    docrice Member

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    It took some pinging with the service center to schedule an appointment (they weren't always immediately responsive on callbacks or emails), but I finally took my car in yesterday. They couldn't get the screen to turn on either, so the 'ol pull-the-fuse hat trick wouldn't apply here. The entire screen ("MCU / Media Control Unit") got replaced. I also got a firmware update in the process to 7.0 (2.7.77). Replacing the touchscreen didn't lose any of my system settings (driver profiles, etc.) although I had to re-pair my Bluetooth connection for my phone.

    Since the screen was being replaced, the service center mentioned that I could get the LTE upgrade for $425 so I ended up getting it at a discount. It's also nice to have accurate time on the screen clock again. When I dropped the car off at the service center, the time was off by -40 minutes.

    While I was at there, I forgot to ask them how much replacing the MCU would've cost if I was out of warranty. A scary thought considering the number of miles I'm rapidly putting on the car.

    Slight correction on my earlier reference - I'm actually at 29k miles on the car now, which is a lot more than what I thought it was.
     
  12. Lex

    Lex Member

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    Good to hear you're back up and running and thanks for the add'l info.

    I think someone has posted the MCU replacement cost is $2500. As for the LTE upgrade I am thinking hmm... isn't the cellular board part of the MCU ? So it might have already been there on the replacement part... or not, we may never know now and I probably shouldn't have mentioned it :)
     
  13. sandpiper

    sandpiper Active Member

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    Well, this is bizarre. The exact same thing happened to me yesterday. I was driving down the road and the warning "Cruise control not available" indicator came on. I did hard reset (left & right thumb wheels), the screen went black and never came back.

    I have almost the same symptoms: The car will run, but says "Powering systems on" for maybe 30 seconds before letting switch into drive. My mirrors do fold in. The biggest issue is that it won't charge above 2 amps. So the car is effectively unusable.

    I called Tesla, and they ran me through the process of pulling the screen fuse. That didn't accomplish anything. They're now looking to pull the logs, but I haven't gotten anything back yet.

    And finally, I'm one of the first P85Ds off of the line, so my screen would be the exact same vintage as yours.
     
  14. docrice

    docrice Member

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    Score another one for the gremlins - a day after I got my car back, the driver's side rear handle won't present anymore, although it seems unrelated to the MCU issue. The rear passenger side handle was replaced a while back. I hope this isn't a domino effect. I'll likely not address this issue for a while since I'm waiting for community assurance about a final, known-good drive unit revision which resolves the milling sound problem.
     

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