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Ceramic coating - Applying ourselves Vs. Professionally??

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I don't disagree. However I would say that objectively Tesla factory paint seems to be in poorer shape than many of their competitors. Polishing and other prep techniques are always going to give the paint a deeper luster. It really comes down to time vs. money vs. effort. Personally I am a high speed go-go-go person and don't have the patience and attention to minute detail to do the prep work properly. I'm also a bit of a perfectionist so I'm the guy that lays 100 square feet of new tile, finds some small error and rips it out and re-does it.

I am still on the fence about what PPF & ceramic product to use on the Model 3. I have an appointment with the most in-demand local shop that does PPF & ceramic in my city for early November and am on the fence about blowing a few thousand $$ on a pro coat and enough PPF to deal with highway driving or just going with a lower end coating and a basic PPF to take care of the worst of the rock chips.

At the end of the day, the Model 3 is a mass market product, it's not collectible and it will only depreciate in value. While I plan on keeping it for probably four years at a minimum, if a good enough alternative product (or even a dramatically improved Model 3) showed up in a few years time I would probably swap it out for that.

PPF + ceramic + tint + other cosmetic products have virtually zero resale value and consumers should absolutely be aware of that... you buy these products for your own gratification.



Agreed, though we (including me) all love our Model-3 cars now, but it sure isn't a collector's edition or a high-end limited-edition produced car like Lambos, Koenigseggs, Saleens or Buggatis of the rich world, these supercars aren't to be driven much & definitely need to be preserved for ages to come.

What we all need a daily commuter car that can & will be used to drive to work, haul our families.. etc.
True, other than keeping the car's exterior paint in good condition the ceramic coats, PPF etc. has absolutely no value added when one wishes to sell off his Model-3. I traded-in my 10 yr old Honda Accord that had been treated with Cilajet (a "proprietary" paint protection process sold by Honda when you purchase their vehicles). But, I only got the regular trade-in value for it.
 
Keep in mind also that most of the products you can apply yourself at home have an application life of about 1 year (a few claim 2 years but who knows). Most of the really heavy duty ceramic products have an application life of 5, 7 or even 9 years and require special curing procedures (use of heat lamps for example) and some of them have different products for use on the chrome trim, glass, etc.

As someone else pointed out, if it didn't take a lot of work to apply a pro coating and the materials cost $100 then you'd see plenty of competition driving the price of a pro coat down to $300-$400 but somehow you don't see that.

One of the local installers near me indicated it takes a crew of three guys working 8 hours, at a minimum to do the paint correction, prep and application of a pro coat properly.

So, 24 X $20 = 480 just in labor, doesn't include all of the other costs of materials, rent/heat/electric, etc.

.. thanks for the info.

If you end up going this route, 30ml is enough for two coats on a Model 3. They sell a kit that includes a 100ml bottle of Reload for the topping step as well, so my suggestion is to go with the 30ml with Reload kit if you're only doing one car.

Will check on it, thanks.
 
I did my car myself using CQuartz about 1½ years ago. It still beads today like I just did it. Here are the steps I followed:

Here are the steps over 2 days.

1) Wash/dry
2) Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) spray to remove all the Meguiar's synthetic
3) Clay Bar
4) Polish/Meguiar's orbital polisher (didn't need to compound)
5) IPA (again) to remove all oils/residue from polish
6) 1st coat of CQuartz
7) 2ed coat of CQuartz
8) Reload quartz detal spray

Not washed and after a rain.
IMG_4443.jpg
 
What is it and why does one need to do 2-step paint correction?? As my car is new (bought last month), I don't visibly notice any paint flaws or chips to it.

Two stages of machine polishing. First with aggressive pad/compound (Meguiar's 105 in my case) followed by finer compound (Meguiar's 205) to finish.

As far as being new, get your car under the right light and what you see might make you cry ;). My car's delivery was perfect, but I wasn't expecting the detailer working 50+ cars per day to adhere to strict procedures to avoid swirls and fine scratches. Here's mine the day after I got it:
model3_swirls.jpg



And of course after. Very happy with how it turned out, even though it took a couple of sleepless nights. Now to find time to treat the other cars to the same...
IMG_20181004_114357.jpg
 
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Hello,

Has anyone used this product (Amazon link) "DualPolymer Waterless Car Wash" to wash/clean the outer surface of Model-3.
Will it be good to use it to clean the car before performing a ceramic coat process on it.

Was researching for "water-less car cleaning" process and saw this product come up repetitively in my internet search.

Thanks!

You should only use the prep products and procedures that the ceramic coat company you are using recommends for the product you are going to be applying.... unless you would be okay with buffing it off and redoing it if it doesn't come out right.
 
Hello,

Has anyone used this product (Amazon link) "DualPolymer Waterless Car Wash" to wash/clean the outer surface of Model-3.
Will it be good to use it to clean the car before performing a ceramic coat process on it.

Was researching for "water-less car cleaning" process and saw this product come up repetitively in my internet search.

Thanks!
I agree with the above comment. The problem is that you just don't know what products in the market have what in them. Some might have high amounts of fillers or silicone and then that will affect how the coating bonds to the paint. It is best just to stick with the manufacturer recommends.

Or you could stick with one of the industry standards Optimum No Rinse. Highly versatile product that will replace your soap, waterless wash, interior cleaner, window cleaner and much much more.
 
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PPF + ceramic + tint + other cosmetic products have virtually zero resale value and consumers should absolutely be aware of that... you buy these products for your own gratification.

Yep I agree!

IDK Im on the fence about PPF and Ceramic coating.

The paint is really that bad?? Maybe Ill just PPF the bumper mirrors and quarter panels.

Whats a decent price to pay for that? I see theres xcel and 3m thoughts on whats better and approx cost?

Someone local quoted me 1900 plus tax. Seems REALLY high
 
You should only use the prep products and procedures that the ceramic coat company you are using recommends for the product you are going to be applying.... unless you would be okay with buffing it off and redoing it if it doesn't come out right.

I agree with the above comment. The problem is that you just don't know what products in the market have what in them. Some might have high amounts of fillers or silicone and then that will affect how the coating bonds to the paint. It is best just to stick with the manufacturer recommends.

Or you could stick with one of the industry standards Optimum No Rinse. Highly versatile product that will replace your soap, waterless wash, interior cleaner, window cleaner and much much more.


Got it... thanks. Will also check the Optimum No Rinse product.
 
Yep I agree!

IDK Im on the fence about PPF and Ceramic coating.

The paint is really that bad?? Maybe Ill just PPF the bumper mirrors and quarter panels.

Whats a decent price to pay for that? I see theres xcel and 3m thoughts on whats better and approx cost?

Someone local quoted me 1900 plus tax. Seems REALLY high

For the "front end", bumper, lights, 24" hood and matching fenders, mirror backs and a few other common areas I am getting quoted $1350, which is a lot.
 
Agreed, though we (including me) all love our Model-3 cars now, but it sure isn't a collector's edition or a high-end limited-edition produced car like Lambos, Koenigseggs, Saleens or Buggatis of the rich world, these supercars aren't to be driven much & definitely need to be preserved for ages to come.

What we all need a daily commuter car that can & will be used to drive to work, haul our families.. etc.
True, other than keeping the car's exterior paint in good condition the ceramic coats, PPF etc. has absolutely no value added when one wishes to sell off his Model-3. I traded-in my 10 yr old Honda Accord that had been treated with Cilajet (a "proprietary" paint protection process sold by Honda when you purchase their vehicles). But, I only got the regular trade-in value for it.

Definitely agree that the reason for getting a ceramic coating or paint protection film on a Tesla or other daily driver is different than a Bugatti, a Koenigsegg or a Saleen etc. Those cars you protect the same way you put a signed baseball in a case, or a coin in a protective sleeve. It is something of value that needs to stay nice for years to come to retain that value. A daily driver, you use paint protection film and/or ceramic the same way a carpenter get's the bed of his/her truck lined with Bedliner. It's going to work, so let's make sure it stands up to the task and we can still be proud of it later down the road.

On the back end however in our experience it really does ad value to the car. It doesn't necessarily add trade in value with most dealerships because most of them offer paint protection film during the sale of a car, so they can theoretically make that money whether the car has it or not. But private sale, we have seen it absolutely be a selling point for buyers. An expense they don't need to take into consideration, and something that does nothing but keep their car nice is often something they are willing to pay a little extra for.

everyone has different experiences and that is just what we have seen. Just food for thought, this thread is awesome!!
 
Definitely agree that the reason for getting a ceramic coating or paint protection film on a Tesla or other daily driver is different than a Bugatti, a Koenigsegg or a Saleen etc. Those cars you protect the same way you put a signed baseball in a case, or a coin in a protective sleeve. It is something of value that needs to stay nice for years to come to retain that value. A daily driver, you use paint protection film and/or ceramic the same way a carpenter get's the bed of his/her truck lined with Bedliner. It's going to work, so let's make sure it stands up to the task and we can still be proud of it later down the road.

On the back end however in our experience it really does ad value to the car. It doesn't necessarily add trade in value with most dealerships because most of them offer paint protection film during the sale of a car, so they can theoretically make that money whether the car has it or not. But private sale, we have seen it absolutely be a selling point for buyers. An expense they don't need to take into consideration, and something that does nothing but keep their car nice is often something they are willing to pay a little extra for.

everyone has different experiences and that is just what we have seen. Just food for thought, this thread is awesome!!

Agreed with your thoughts. Yes, we all know that our Model-3 is going to used as daily commuter vehicle & never going to be a collector's pride vehicle. So is it wise if someone is spending around $2k - $5k for half or a complete body vinyl wrap, then adding $800 - $2000 for ceramic coating..... the list goes long.
Adding all these costs to the car isn't really adding to it's resale value that much. So, when you are ready to sell the car years from now, you are not going to re-ap the money invested in these paint protection processes.

Yes, the paint protected vehicle will get a few dollars more than a regular car of the same year for a trade-in or private sale. So, finally its the owners decision whether to go that extra mile to professionally get their vehicle done or just use the "ol' water bucket & a rag" to clean their car. ;-)
 
Adding all these costs to the car isn't really adding to it's resale value that much. So, when you are ready to sell the car years from now, you are not going to re-ap the money invested in these paint protection processes.

The only time this will ever matter for resale purposes is if you sell privately and there are 200 other cars with the exact same spec as yours on the market and yours is the only one with paint protection. Trading in to a dealer? They don't care. I traded a 2013 Volt for our Model S that had hail damage and visible collision damage on the rear bumper. They gave us more than blue book value.

When I bought my Roadster used, it had PPF all over it. There were a few spots where things had gone through the plastic and gouged the paint. There's an edge on the rear clamshell that wasn't wrapped and somehow got scraped down to the primer. All that added protection, and the worst damage is in a spot not in the path of flying road debris. I actually just got done removing all of the film, and the removal process was probably harder on the paint than anything it has seen in 10 years! Left residue everywhere that had to be scraped with a plastic razor blade, leaving new scratches on the paint that had to be compounded out. With that said, I am DIYing the full front of my P3D with 3M this week :D.

Bottom line, do it for YOU and not some imaginary buyer years into the future. If you don't care, save the money and stress.
 
The only time this will ever matter for resale purposes is if you sell privately and there are 200 other cars with the exact same spec as yours on the market and yours is the only one with paint protection. Trading in to a dealer? They don't care. I traded a 2013 Volt for our Model S that had hail damage and visible collision damage on the rear bumper. They gave us more than blue book value.

When I bought my Roadster used, it had PPF all over it. There were a few spots where things had gone through the plastic and gouged the paint. There's an edge on the rear clamshell that wasn't wrapped and somehow got scraped down to the primer. All that added protection, and the worst damage is in a spot not in the path of flying road debris. I actually just got done removing all of the film, and the removal process was probably harder on the paint than anything it has seen in 10 years! Left residue everywhere that had to be scraped with a plastic razor blade, leaving new scratches on the paint that had to be compounded out. With that said, I am DIYing the full front of my P3D with 3M this week :D.

Bottom line, do it for YOU and not some imaginary buyer years into the future. If you don't care, save the money and stress.


That's completely right.... but the question here is the pros & cons to install the ceramic coating ourselves (save some serious cash) OR spend a bundle to get it done professionally.:confused:
 
I have Xpel Ultimate and was looking to add a coating to reduce wash times and add gloss.

In researching, it looks like there are some ceramic coatings that are designed for bonding with PPF instead of clearcoat on paint. I ended up ordering Feynlab PPF & Vinyl Ceramic, but I haven’t applied it yet as I’d like to see if anyone has tried this combination and how it worked out.

Any Feylab PPF & Vinyl Ceramic users out there willing to share your experiences?
 
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