Anyone know what the advantages of doing a Ceramic Coating on top of Paint Protection Film (Xpel) and why I would get a quote from a vendor to do this? I was quoted $3085 for the entire PPF, using Xpel, on a Model Y with Ceramic Coating on top included. Name of the firm is 407 Custom in Orlando, FL. They are a certified vendor listed by Expel. Seems like the best price I could find, but they’re the only ones to suggest Ceramic Coating on top of the Expel PPF. Any ideas or comments in the process and price?
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Ceramic Coating on top of PPF
- Thread starter d.marks48
- Start date
It’s just another layer of protection. PPF + ceramic is a great approach.
I searched around Orlando as well and I ended up going with AutoPaintGuard based on a thread I found here. I’d shoot them an email or call to get a quote, they do great work!
I’m heading over to drop my Y off for Full front PPF tomorrow. It’s in Tampa but definitely worth the drive.
teslamotorsclub.com
Here’s a video of a Model X with PPF and ceramic they did:
I searched around Orlando as well and I ended up going with AutoPaintGuard based on a thread I found here. I’d shoot them an email or call to get a quote, they do great work!
I’m heading over to drop my Y off for Full front PPF tomorrow. It’s in Tampa but definitely worth the drive.
Vendor - Xpel Model Y Kits Available - Auto Paint Guard Inc.
The much anticipated Tesla Model Y pre-cut kits are now available through Xpel's database. No reason to use bulk film with razor knives when you can use pre-cut kits that can be modified to wrap all edges safely. Use Xpel Ultimate 8 mil film for standard protection or you can upgrade to a 10...
teslamotorsclub.com
Here’s a video of a Model X with PPF and ceramic they did:
That is an amazing price, if true. I was quoted about $7k for a full body XPEL Stealth PPF for a MY. This includes paint correction and all prep work as well.
All the more reason to give the guys I posted a call. they sent me a full catalogue and quote in email for my review.
Hey,
So, Paint Protection Film works as physical barrier between you and the road. PPF is engineered for impact protection and the film is printed and applied like a wrap to vehicle surfaces, screens, doors handles, etc.
Ceramic Coatings are engineered to enhance the appearance of your vehicle and make coated surfaces extremely easy to clean. This is applied like a wax and can be applied to car interiors, wheels, and even brake calipers. Our ceramic coating offers hydrophobic properties to help repel water and mud.
Ideally, for max results you can apply ceramic coating over PPF to get impact protection and easier to clean surfaces, but both products work well separately too.
Just like the guys at XPEL said, the products work well separately but ideally they work best when put together. The best way to describe this is this: liquid and solids. PPF will protect from solid objects such as rocks and debris on the road but PPF by itself will attract things like dust and other small particles. That is just the nature of plastics. A ceramic coating will help provide a resistance to things like water, grime, sap, goo, adhesives, and anything else that wants to stick to the paint's surface while giving the car an illustrious shine.
As a final thought, there is no wrong way to add protection. Any protection is better than no protection - it only matters how much protection you want to add to your car! Doing both PPF and Ceramic coating gives you the best of both worlds when it comes to protection.
I did my own XPel PPF, then put this ceramic coat from Esoteric on top. I was pretty happy with the way it turned out. I also got some ISM 1.0 to put on the non-PPF parts of the car, to include the trim and wheels. I had no issues at all doing this and it was my first time for ceramic. Kamikaze Surface Film Coat
TravelFree
Active Member
I had both PPF and several coats of Ceramic to both my MY and M S. The rain usually washes all the dirt off the car as the Ceramic is so slippery. It doesn't prevent hard water spotting but if you towel dry then there is no spotting.
I also had the Xpel heat shield glass tint done. Not perfect but helps a lot in direct Florida sun.
I was advised by the Xpel guys that the Ceramic needs to cure for 24-48 hours so they recommend garaging the car to prevent rain from ruining the cure time. Because my garage is so small I just decided to let the experts do the application. Some work requires a skill set that is way above my pay grade. $4000 per car. Lifetime warranty. On the Y, I only added front side window tint and we use the reflector on the windshield.
If you plan on keeping the car a long time, I think it is worth the investment.
I also had the Xpel heat shield glass tint done. Not perfect but helps a lot in direct Florida sun.
I was advised by the Xpel guys that the Ceramic needs to cure for 24-48 hours so they recommend garaging the car to prevent rain from ruining the cure time. Because my garage is so small I just decided to let the experts do the application. Some work requires a skill set that is way above my pay grade. $4000 per car. Lifetime warranty. On the Y, I only added front side window tint and we use the reflector on the windshield.
If you plan on keeping the car a long time, I think it is worth the investment.
Wow didnt know it was that expensive to apply PPF. I had 3M done on my 4R for 1k, Front bumper, 18" hood, mirrors and lower strip on sides. Planned on doing that for my MY too.
Anyone in Colorado / Denver area know a good place to get PPF done? There were small imperfections in the 4R due to just the divots and such, but the MY and M3 are pretty smooth and seem like there shouldnt be any issues
Anyone in Colorado / Denver area know a good place to get PPF done? There were small imperfections in the 4R due to just the divots and such, but the MY and M3 are pretty smooth and seem like there shouldnt be any issues
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TravelFree
Active Member
My cars had the Ceramic on top as well for that price. Plus Lifetime Warranty. Was in the shop for 6 days because of curing time between layers. Figure about half for just the Xpel PPF.
The above prices people are quoting are for applying PPF to the WHOLE car, not just the front bumper and partial hood for $1k.
Ceramic tends to be a bit more hydrophobic than the PPF (water will bead up and roll off, bird poop and dirt and such will wash off easier, etc) and usually results in a bit more gloss compared to the PPF alone. It's not a must have at all, but if the price is decent than it can be worth while for mainly cosmetic reasons and slightly easier washing.
That said, if you were quoted $3k for FULL PPF (all painted surfaces, not just the full front end) than that is an INSANE price. I would ask if the shop could contact previous customers and give them your number so you could chat with them about their experience etc. The going price is usually more than $5k for full car PPF for a Model 3 or Y and that is considered "good." Mine was over $7,000 for my Y and that was with 3M (usually cheaper than Xpel, but often said to be about as good quality wise). I did get some tint done and ceramic coating as well, but the tint was less than $1,000 and I got a huge discount on the ceramic by getting the full body PPF.
If the shop does good work, for $3k I wouldn't even think twice. (I would make sure they tuck all edges around body panels, that they remove badges instead of just cutting around them, etc. Good quality PPF is essentially invisible. The edges are wrapped in such a way that you have to open a door and look under it or look under the car to see the edge of the film, etc)
Plan on anywhere from 5 to 10 days for a full car PPF and ceramic, maybe a couple days less if you don't get ceramic. One thing to inquire about is paint correction before you get the PPF applied. If quality of look is important to you, you want all swirl marks removed from the paint BEFORE they cover it with PPF. A lot of places will just slap it on. Even on a brand new car at minimum a one stage correction should be done, but if you want show room or supercar looks, ask for a two stage paint correction to be done before the PPF. Life time ceramic is also kind of a lie. Usually you need to swing by every year for a "check up" and refresh. Normally the cost is pretty low, $100 or less, and includes a nice wash. If you just never take it back though, that ceramic isn't going to last 5, 10, etc years. It'll start breaking down probably within a year and fairly noticeable within a few years. So if you're going to someone out of town, make sure to factor that in, or essentially ignore the whole "lifetime" thing and be happy with however long it lasts
TravelFree
Active Member
Those prices are similar to around here. My PPF guy didn't recommend doing the full car when adding Xpel Ceramic Lifetime in the package. He only does full car wraps when the customer wants to change the entire color. In my case the entire front back to the doors and mirror covers were done. The Ceramic was all exterior including glass and wheels. We just came through our pollen season and all I had to do was hit the car with a garden hose and it was like new.
I got quotes cheaper by about 30% but only one year warranty and I don't believe it was xpel.
Ya, that’s an honest (or lazy) shop. What you had done covers 90% of the damage that you might get, stones and rocks chipping the paint and sandblasting the headlights and stuff.
I had that on my Model 3 before I traded in for the Y and within the first year I got a big 12+ inch scratch on the rear quarter panel. Looked like maybe a suitcase zipper had rubbed against my car as someone lifted it into their trunk or something. Most of it buffed out, though I could still see it in direct bright light and feel it. Thankfully it wasn’t pointed out upon trade in. I also hate swirls. They happen with the lightest touch and even trying hard with the two bucket method I would get light swirls even with the softest and high quality microfiber towels. On the dark blue you could notice them off angle in bright sun and absolutely at night under bright street lights or parking garage lights.
I had them paint correct (remove the swirls the Tesla guys added from washing the car) and any other imperfections and then cover the whole car in PPF so I just didn’t have to deal with it any more. The PPF actually can pick up little swirls and scratches from sand on the surface if someone runs their hand along it or from a dirty towel, but it’ll self heal in direct warm sunlight and they’ll disappear, so it’s way more forgiving than just paint.
I also bought a DI water system that removes dissolved solids from the water so it air dries spotless… nut job here, that also explains the full PPF
Car looks great though and a full deep wash is an hour or less at home!
TravelFree
Active Member
On my M Y I was concerned about the front of the rear tires that Tesla sells a PPF sheet to cover that area. I added the mud flaps on all four wheel wells that are 3D so I hope that area isn't going to suffer. I don't think that PPF can be added on top of multi coat Ceramic now.
I have a water treatment which is a combination softener and activated charcoal filtration for the whole house but that doesn't prevent spotting. We still use a surfactant in the dishwasher. What is that DI system you mentioned? I see several deionized systems on Amazon and wanted to get advice before adding it just for car wash line I have installed. My system still leaves spots because the water has sodium ion content. Towel dry might leave swirls in the paint but seems OK on Ceramic. My desire is to end the need to towel dry.
I have a water treatment which is a combination softener and activated charcoal filtration for the whole house but that doesn't prevent spotting. We still use a surfactant in the dishwasher. What is that DI system you mentioned? I see several deionized systems on Amazon and wanted to get advice before adding it just for car wash line I have installed. My system still leaves spots because the water has sodium ion content. Towel dry might leave swirls in the paint but seems OK on Ceramic. My desire is to end the need to towel dry.
D.I. Rinse DI Pro 50
There seems to be a number of rebranded versions of that… possibly knock offs? Anyway, mine was from “The Clean Garage” simply because they were the cheapest at the time. Oddly my system is a full size tank even though it’s the “50” and only has a half cubic foot of resin. Maybe I can refill later with a full foot?
I have an electric power washer that is limited to 2.5 gal per minute which is under the max flow rate for the DI system so it’s perfect. I just use the cheap little TDS monitor they sell with the kits, but it took ~120 ppm water down to 0. I just use the DI for the rinse step to extend the life of the resin, though lately I also use it for the soap step too in case it improves cleaning or how much suds it makes. I did maybe 10 washes last summer and three or four this year so far and still 0 tds. Even if I had to replace 0.5 cubic ft of resin every summer for ~$170 I thought it would be worth while for the amount of energy/time saved and not having to touch the paint with a towel when there was no lubricant(soap) on it. I figured even if I only got 20 washes out of it that would be $8.50/wash (not counting initial system cost) which was a little cheaper than how much a premium touchless automatic car wash costs… which I NEVER go to with the Y (worried about harsh pH chemicals and discoloration of the black trim).
It claims 2,000 gal from ~110ppm TDS. I think I estimated at worst case if I only got 500 gal that would still be 200 minutes of use at my 2.5gal pressure washer rate… so a *long* wasteful 10 minutes of rinsing per wash would get me 20 washes. Honestly looking at it again I would probably buy direct from dirinse.com instead of a reseller because my system looks identical to theirs; same color bypass handles and brass quick connectors etc… they also claim to use brand new resin and not regenerated stuff…
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TravelFree
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