Charging Issue Level 2 at Home

[vanzandtj]

My issue started on 9/11, that morning I updated to 36.3.1, that night it started, was fine up until then.

What version were you running before that?

 

[CoachK]

We are experiencing the same issue. We have charged with the Tesla Wall Connector for 16+ months with no issues. Last week we similarly saw voltage (244-247) and amps 0-3 and no miles added. We also have a 2020 Model Y with the same issue. We tried the Mobile Connector into a 120 wall outlet and that had the same issue. We took the wall connectors to the Tesla Service center and they worked there and charged the car with 125v and 12amps. We had an electrician come and he checked outside voltage coming in, voltage in the Wall Connector etc. and all was fine.

We went to our neighbors house and connected via the Mobile Connector and saw the same issue. Wondering if we are getting dirty/fluctuating voltage from the power company in our neighborhood that is causing the issues? And or the software update has made the system more sensitive.

We are not near a Supercharger so not having an at home solution is a it of a pain.

 

[MikeHolliday]

I actually have been having almost the same issue! After 9 months + of perfect charging with my Mobile Connector and 15-40 outlet, my car would not charge. Charger lit up like it was charging (flowing green lights) and the charge port showed flashing green (until sometimes it would turn red after about 30 mins). The screen showed that it was charging and would give an eta to completion. Showed the voltage (235-249) and amps at 0-2 with no miles added per hour. I took the car to Tesla and they said there were no issues they could find. The car charged fine at Supercharger and on chargepoint stations. Tesla replaced my mobile wall connector and I had no issues at home charging. Then, 3 weeks later, same problem. Like you, my mobile wall connector worked fine on the 110 plug at home. Also, the loaner model s charged on the 15-40 plug at my home with no issues. The service center says there's no problems with the care and sent me on my way. I have been intermittently able to charge at home with my MWC and 15-40 plug. I put a call into Tesla Customer Support and they have escalated the issue and I'm waiting to hear back.

Also, I have had the electricians back out to verify all components as well as had the electric utility do line voltage verification...all of which came back perfect.

How long is the run from your main panel to the 14-50 Connector? If the wire is to small and/or you ground is not adequate you can have an issue. If you have a 200Amp Panel you should, by the Electrical Code, have a Minimum of 2 ground rods, driven a minimum of 8 ft. in the ground and 6 ft. apart with a 25 ohm of less resistance. You cannot count bonding to a cold water pipe as a proper ground.

 

[CoachK]

What type of EVSE is everyone using?

Gen 2 Tesla Wall Charger

 

[jim_p]

What version were you running before that?

I think I was on 36.3.1

 

[MikeHolliday]

I am using a Gen 3 Tesla Wall Connector with my Model Y.

Since it was mentioned above that another Model 3 experienced it at the same location that eliminates the Car being at fault.

I am leaning to improper cable, a bad connection (including the possiblity of a bad breaker or a Ground issue... Many People do not understand the many issues from not having an adequate ground.

When this issue arises has anyone noticed when they plug the car in are the lights in the house flickering or dimming?
If so, that is a big sign that the house has an inadequate ground. An in adequate ground on a home is extremely dangerous...

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

If so, that is a big sign that the house has an inadequate ground. An in adequate ground on a home is extremely dangerous...

It's also possible to have a good house ground but a poor ground for the EVSE (especially if there is a subpanel with a separate ground rod or something odd like that).

I guess we'll see. It looks to me that with one exception above it is tied to software. But the change in software could be picking up a grounding issue (one that was previously not detected). But it seems to be the car that is picking it up (rather than the UMC/Wall Connector, which also does the check).

 

[jim_p]

I am using a Gen 3 Tesla Wall Connector with my Model Y.

Since it was mentioned above that another Model 3 experienced it at the same location that eliminates the Car being at fault.

I am leaning to improper cable, a bad connection (including the possiblity of a bad breaker or a Ground issue... Many People do not understand the many issues from not having an adequate ground.

When this issue arises has anyone noticed when they plug the car in are the lights in the house flickering or dimming?
If so, that is a big sign that the house has an inadequate ground. An in adequate ground on a home is extremely dangerous...

I totally understand that a grounding issue can cause many problems. The likely hood that multiple people in different parts of the country are having ground issues all around the same time would seem pretty remote, especially when they have all been charging successfully at the same location for long periods of time.

The frustrating part is It would be nice if the 40-60k car or someone at the 300B company could at least reply or tell me why the car isn't charging.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I totally understand that a grounding issue can cause many problems.

Would be helpful to post a picture of your outlet and its wiring (really need to see how well the ground is connected), a good picture of the subpanel and its wiring (focusing on the grounding coming back from the outlet and the ground for the subpanel!), and the ground connection of the subpanel back to the main panel (and a focus on the grounding there).

Did the electrician find anything on his second trip out?

 

[Quorky]

Posted in the other thread:

Just started having the same issue a few days ago. My setup is as follows:

NEMA 14-50
Getting 16 / 32amps (14mph vs the 28-30mph)

Tried unplugging, plugging in. Cycling the fuses. Voltmeter says 240ish volts as usual. Starts up fine, tries to accelerate above 16amps, get the "charging rate limited, unplug plug back in" error. Feels like it's not a coincidence that we just got a larger incidence rate just recently (could be software related)... scheduled the appointment for next week. Let's see what they say.

PS. Funny thing is, after I set up the appointment a few days ago, the car started charging fine at 32/32amps, now went back to 16/32amps.

 

[jim_p]

Would be helpful to post a picture of your outlet and its wiring (really need to see how well the ground is connected), a good picture of the subpanel and its wiring (focusing on the grounding coming back from the outlet and the ground for the subpanel!), and the ground connection of the subpanel back to the main panel (and a focus on the grounding there).

Did the electrician find anything on his second trip out?

He said the grounds/neutrals weren't correct. Had him put in the new panel and new breakers (the picture is a little far) but he isolated the grounds/neutrals. Since he said there was a ground/neutral issue, I thought that was it, I was at work, with the car, and couldn't test it. Came home, plugged in, same issue. Hit stop charging/start charging on the app every few minutes until after about 5/6 tries, it starts charging. Obviously not fixed, but definitely driving me nuts.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

He said the grounds/neutrals weren't correct. Had him put in the new panel and new breakers (the picture is a little far) but he isolated the grounds/neutrals. Since he said there was a ground/neutral issue, I thought that was it, I was at work, with the car, and couldn't test it. Came home, plugged in, same issue. Hit stop charging/start charging on the app every few minutes until after about 5/6 tries, it starts charging. Obviously not fixed, but definitely driving me nuts.

It may be perfectly normal, but it's odd that the two line voltages come in in different pieces of conduit. Why is that?

I would double check the continuity of that ground wire all the way back to the main panel. And make sure it is properly (firmly) connected at the outlet. In general, the UMC will detect this sort of problem, so it's almost certainly connected...but it's possible the car is more sensitive in some way to some thing that it checks.

Maybe it doesn't like mismatched hot wire impedances or something? Not sure whether that's ever an issue but it's certainly physically possible. It shouldn't matter I don't think, though in theory it can be detected by the car.

 

[Sans-gas]

Nothing yet, my thought is the charging system has become sensitized to incoming voltage and it won't engage the charger, not sure of the why, I'll will post updates as they happen.

 

[Sans-gas]

Mine started about 8/26 and has gradually gotten worse. Originally I was able to predict certain times that it would and wouldn’t charge correctly. Recently it will almost never charge at home. I’ve only had to hit the SC once, since I no longer commute.

 

[jim_p]

It may be perfectly normal, but it's odd that the two line voltages come in in different pieces of conduit. Why is that?

I would double check the continuity of that ground wire all the way back to the main panel. And make sure it is properly (firmly) connected at the outlet. In general, the UMC will detect this sort of problem, so it's almost certainly connected...but it's possible the car is more sensitive in some way to some thing that it checks.

Maybe it doesn't like mismatched hot wire impedances or something? Not sure whether that's ever an issue but it's certainly physically possible. It shouldn't matter I don't think, though in theory it can be detected by the car.

The pic is far away, i zoomed in a little, the second (black line) bends at the top of the panel but does comes from the same conduit. the second conduit is a line going out to power the garage door openers.

The ground appears to go back fine, but I won't go near the service panel to check the connection (He said everything he checed was fine, but i don't know what that was exactly).

I still believe that with a bunch of people having an issue where there were none previous means something must be going on in the cars charging hardware/software, its a little puzzling that Tesla doesn't appear to have a clue as to what it is.

I'm at the point of considering getting a bucks transformer and drop down to 208V and get away from what appears to be a sensitivity above 240V.

 

[Watts_Up]

The pic is far away, i zoomed in a little, the second (black line) bends at the top of the panel but does comes from the same conduit. the second conduit is a line going out to power the garage door openers.

The ground appears to go back fine, but I won't go near the service panel to check the connection (He said everything he checed was fine, but i don't know what that was exactly).

I still believe that with a bunch of people having an issue where there were none previous means something must be going on in the cars charging hardware/software, its a little puzzling that Tesla doesn't appear to have a clue as to what it is.

I'm at the point of considering getting a bucks transformer and drop down to 208V and get away from what appears to be a sensitivity above 240V.

Did you try charging your car using a public L2 charger?

Also, contact the Service Center with your phone App to check if your car don't need a recall for a replacement of a the charging plug?

 

[Quorky]

Did you try charging your car using a public L2 charger?

Also, contact the Service Center with your phone App to check if your car don't need a recall for a replacement of a the charging plug?

Is there a charge plug recall?

 

[Watts_Up]

Is there a charge plug recall?

I got the following recall performed when I got the update for the FSD HW3 computer:

Replace Charge Port Pin: Deadfront, Pin, CP, M3, Service 1470434-00-C (Quantity 2)
​

But when I went home, charging under 240 V was like 1 Amp.

I was thinking that something was wrong because you cannot adjust the Amp setting below 5 A.

So I sent a message to the SC to schedule an appointment, as I didn't know what was the issue.

The SC texted me a little bit later and mentioned that I should receive a firmware update and install it.

So I received a new update, with the same software version name than the one I previously installed.

However, this fixed the problem.

​

 

[vanzandtj]

I got the following recall performed when I got the update for the FSD HW3 computer:

Replace Charge Port Pin: Deadfront, Pin, CP, M3, Service 1470434-00-C (Quantity 2)
​

But when I went home, charging under 240 V was like 1 Amp.

I was thinking that something was wrong because you cannot adjust the Amp setting below 5 A.

So I sent a message to the SC to schedule an appointment, as I didn't know what was the issue.

The SC texted me a little bit later and mentioned that I should receive a firmware update and install it.

So I received a new update, with the same software version name than the one I previously installed.

However, this fixed the problem.

​

What software version do you have, then?

 

[jim_p]

Did you try charging your car using a public L2 charger?

Also, contact the Service Center with your phone App to check if your car don't need a recall for a replacement of a the charging plug?

I tried once when it first happened, it charged, I didn't notice if it was at 208 or 240, I will try again.
I've tried the mobile charger and a 3rd party charger at my house with the same result. I wasn't sure if your comment about the pin replacement was something that was done to the charger or the car?
I have a mobile appointment setup for Monday, not sure they'll be able to find anything, but we'll see.