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Charging Issue Level 2 at Home

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I tried once when it first happened, it charged, I didn't notice if it was at 208 or 240, I will try again.
I've tried the mobile charger and a 3rd party charger at my house with the same result. I wasn't sure if your comment about the pin replacement was something that was done to the charger or the car?
I have a mobile appointment setup for Monday, not sure they'll be able to find anything, but we'll see.

Please report back what they find if anything. I have a Monday morn mobile appointment as well. Will post the results in here.
 
In my old house, I had a 14-50 installed. I would plug in M3 and screen would show 243V initially. After the initial charge rate would increase from 1/32A to around 26-27A, the voltage would drop to 235-237V. It would reach 32A, then M3 would either reduce charging to 12A, or stop completely. This was due to faulty wiring install/loose connectors. Happened within 3-4 days of plug install. After a quick check and tightening of connectors at breaker and plug, issue went away.

It's impressive that the charging system can recognize the issues you had. I still try to remember to unplug the car during thunderstorms, but I'm more confident in my Tesla remaining undamaged than other items in the house.
 
I expect the charging system keeps very close track of the voltage and current. It probably determines the apparent source resistance during the original low-current probes, then monitors it. If some part of the circuit is heating up, its resistance will increase, then the voltage will drop, then the charging system can lower the current draw. But the voltage can change for other reasons. I think some recent change in the software has made the system more sensitive.

Software version 2020.36.11 was just installed this evening, and the car seems to have charged up normally afterwards. I hope this solves the problem.
 
I expect the charging system keeps very close track of the voltage and current. It probably determines the apparent source resistance during the original low-current probes, then monitors it. If some part of the circuit is heating up, its resistance will increase, then the voltage will drop, then the charging system can lower the current draw. But the voltage can change for other reasons. I think some recent change in the software has made the system more sensitive.

Software version 2020.36.11 was just installed this evening, and the car seems to have charged up normally afterwards. I hope this solves the problem.

I'm on 36.11, no change to charging issue for me.
 
I actually have been having almost the same issue! After 9 months + of perfect charging with my Mobile Connector and 15-40 outlet, my car would not charge. Charger lit up like it was charging (flowing green lights) and the charge port showed flashing green (until sometimes it would turn red after about 30 mins). The screen showed that it was charging and would give an eta to completion. Showed the voltage (235-249) and amps at 0-2 with no miles added per hour. I took the car to Tesla and they said there were no issues they could find. The car charged fine at Supercharger and on chargepoint stations. Tesla replaced my mobile wall connector and I had no issues at home charging. Then, 3 weeks later, same problem. Like you, my mobile wall connector worked fine on the 110 plug at home. Also, the loaner model s charged on the 15-40 plug at my home with no issues. The service center says there's no problems with the care and sent me on my way. I have been intermittently able to charge at home with my MWC and 15-40 plug. I put a call into Tesla Customer Support and they have escalated the issue and I'm waiting to hear back.

Also, I have had the electricians back out to verify all components as well as had the electric utility do line voltage verification...all of which came back perfect.
Which car are you having trouble with? I’m talking to svc tomorrow and want to report about others having similar issues.
 
Just had a conversation with Tesla service. The issue is a software one. The car is currently more sensitive to voltage fluctuations and is effecting cars in areas with "dirty" electricity. They were able to check our home location and confirmed it falls into that category. They are working on a firmware fix. The technician was pushing out 2020.36.11 to both the MY and M3 but wasn't sure if the fix had yet been placed in those updates.

It makes sense and is what we had concluded since the mobile chargers didn't work either and didn't work at a neighbors (all on the same grid). The cars charged at a tesla site (cleaner electricity since they are on a commercial line).

Hope that helps!
 
I actually have been having almost the same issue! After 9 months + of perfect charging with my Mobile Connector and 15-40 outlet, my car would not charge. Charger lit up like it was charging (flowing green lights) and the charge port showed flashing green (until sometimes it would turn red after about 30 mins). The screen showed that it was charging and would give an eta to completion. Showed the voltage (235-249) and amps at 0-2 with no miles added per hour. I took the car to Tesla and they said there were no issues they could find. The car charged fine at Supercharger and on chargepoint stations. Tesla replaced my mobile wall connector and I had no issues at home charging. Then, 3 weeks later, same problem. Like you, my mobile wall connector worked fine on the 110 plug at home. Also, the loaner model s charged on the 15-40 plug at my home with no issues. The service center says there's no problems with the care and sent me on my way. I have been intermittently able to charge at home with my MWC and 15-40 plug. I put a call into Tesla Customer Support and they have escalated the issue and I'm waiting to hear back.

Also, I have had the electricians back out to verify all components as well as had the electric utility do line voltage verification...all of which came back perfect.
Is yours a M3 LR, too?
 
Just had a conversation with Tesla service. The issue is a software one. The car is currently more sensitive to voltage fluctuations and is effecting cars in areas with "dirty" electricity. They were able to check our home location and confirmed it falls into that category. They are working on a firmware fix. The technician was pushing out 2020.36.11 to both the MY and M3 but wasn't sure if the fix had yet been placed in those updates.

It makes sense and is what we had concluded since the mobile chargers didn't work either and didn't work at a neighbors (all on the same grid). The cars charged at a tesla site (cleaner electricity since they are on a commercial line).

Hope that helps!


Tesla Service also shared that the issue is found within both M3 and MY since they use the same charging platform. Which explains why both our M3 and MY suddenly opted not to charge.
 
I have a LR AWD and also started having charging issues recently after no issues for about 17 months. I took the car into the service center and Tesla service essentially said a similar thing regarding 'dirty' energy at my house but didn't mention anything about a software update to fix but I'm really hoping that's the case.

Shortly after coming home from my service appointment, I did get a prompt to update to 36.11 and the car started charging immediately after the update was completed but the next day charging stopped working again.
 
I have a LR AWD and also started having charging issues recently after no issues for about 17 months. I took the car into the service center and Tesla service essentially said a similar thing regarding 'dirty' energy at my house but didn't mention anything about a software update to fix but I'm really hoping that's the case.

Shortly after coming home from my service appointment, I did get a prompt to update to 36.11 and the car started charging immediately after the update was completed but the next day charging stopped working again.

I also had the 2020.36.11 pushed and it did not resolve the issue - but I wasn't thinking it would since service wasn't sure that .11 had the firmware update for this issue in it. I did reach out to service and let them know that nothing had changed just so they knew. They asked I follow-up in a week for any updates in timing.
 
I put this on another thread before I found this one, Here's my tale of woe.

Our (Dec 2019) M3 LR AWD charged on a 120V receptacle all summer just fine. Ran 12A and we got 5 mph. A couple of updates ago (before Aug 26) it started giving us intermittent "Charge interrupted" messages. It sits at 120V and 0 amps with occasional trips to 1-2 or even 3 amps but then drops back to 0. After a bit it tells us charge interrupted.

As time has gone on it has stopped charging altogether.

So, I installed a 240V 30A receptacle and it still does not charge off of the local utility. But, here's the fun part, we have a 30 year-old 8kW diesel generator that runs the house through a transfer switch and the car charges just fine off of the generator! Same volts, same Hz, and the generator feeds the place through all of the same breakers and panels the utility power does.

Local service guy says he has 7 customers with same issue and "engineers are frantically searching for the fix". Other than that he suggested it was noise on our power line. So, we will put a scope on it and see. Stay tuned.
 
Update. Car back to charging 32/32amps (prior 16/32amps).

I did not install a new software or changed anything g or cycled anything. Did not unplug or do anything to the outlet (14-50).

My thoughts are either right now (during the day, the fluctuations in the community where I am are low - clean electricity) or the pushed something to force patch update (via cell).

Please check your setups. If it's just me then it prob is the latest software 10 and up is a bit more sensitive and should be addressed via a future software fix...

Please report back if your issues are resolved or improved.
 
How long is the run from your main panel to the 14-50 Connector? If the wire is to small and/or you ground is not adequate you can have an issue. If you have a 200Amp Panel you should, by the Electrical Code, have a Minimum of 2 ground rods, driven a minimum of 8 ft. in the ground and 6 ft. apart with a 25 ohm of less resistance. You cannot count bonding to a cold water pipe as a proper ground.

It's about a 20' run, but was done using 6ga and it is a straight shot. My grounding is all 100% proper. Again, this is a NEW issue after 9 months of no issues with the same setup.
 
Update. Car back to charging 32/32amps (prior 16/32amps).

I did not install a new software or changed anything g or cycled anything. Did not unplug or do anything to the outlet (14-50).

My thoughts are either right now (during the day, the fluctuations in the community where I am are low - clean electricity) or the pushed something to force patch update (via cell).

Please check your setups. If it's just me then it prob is the latest software 10 and up is a bit more sensitive and should be addressed via a future software fix...

Please report back if your issues are resolved or improved.

It has charged 4 out of 4 times today, I have also not downloaded any updates, a buddy of mine said they were working on pushing out a firmware update. I'll check later tonight, nights are usually tougher to get it charging and voltage always seems to be higher. At least heading in the right direction.
 
Update. Car back to charging 32/32amps (prior 16/32amps).

I did not install a new software or changed anything g or cycled anything. Did not unplug or do anything to the outlet (14-50).

My thoughts are either right now (during the day, the fluctuations in the community where I am are low - clean electricity) or the pushed something to force patch update (via cell).

Please check your setups. If it's just me then it prob is the latest software 10 and up is a bit more sensitive and should be addressed via a future software fix...

Please report back if your issues are resolved or improved.
We are still only pulling 16 amps. Volts are high. Hoping the fix will come soon. I guess the good news we can charge - albeit a bit slower the desired
 
So I’m seeing 3 M3 AWD LR and 3 M3 RWD LR and 1 Y from 2018 and 2019

Another M3 I don’t know the detail about, for a total of 8 vehicles.

There are also 2 users who have M3’s having reduced amps received during charging. I wonder if this is related.

Any guess how many that might be all together since many are not on this forum or folks who aren’t aware because they use 110V or SC routinely who haven’t discovered it?