I was installing a mini split (heat pump) that required a 30 amp breaker. I had to cut a bunch of drywall to get to the panel and buy some 10 gauge wire, so I figured I would run a line to charge my 3 faster while I was at it.
I ran a 10/2 (no neutral) run from the panel, to an outdoor, waterproof 6-30 Receptacle, with a 30 amp breaker.
My plan was to buy a nema 6-30P adapter for my mobile charger.
Tesla doesn't make a 6-30 adapter.
They make a 10-30, which, apparently doesn't exist in modern code because it uses a neutral and no ground.
And they make a 14-30 which would be up to code, except I ran 6/2 wire with no neutral.
EVSEadapters.com makes one.. but they're sold out and looks like they have been for a while.NEMA 6-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters
Now I know I can slap either the 10-30 receptacle in there, with the ground as the neutral, or the 14-30 receptacle in there, with the neutral missing, and it will work just fine for my application, but I know neither of those options would be up to code.
So I thought about the wall charger. However, looking at both the gen 2 and gen 3 wall charger, it's kind of the same story as the10-30 plug (neutral and no ground) .... Hot, Hot Neutral: no ground.
Again, I see a bunch of people installing the wall chargers with 2 hots and a ground, and simply running the ground wire to the "neutral" terminal.
But... if the wall connector intentionally places ANY load on that line... say as like an internal 120 volt to 12 volt power supply to run it's own "brain", well now I've got an "intentional load (albeit a very small one) on my ground run........ which again... wouldn't be up to code...
I'm honestly tempted to swap the breaker out for a 20 amp, and simply use a 6-20 plug and call it good enough, but seeing as how I already ran the 10 gauge wire (capable of 80% of 30 amp AKA 24 amps), I feel like that would be under-utilizing that run.
It's too late to replace the wire with a /3
So what do you guys think?
A) Switch to a 10-30 receptacle, use the ground as the neutral, buy the nema adapter and call it a day?(which I've seen a lot of people do)
B) Switch to a 14-30 receptacle , leave the neutral missing, buy the nema adapter and call it a day?(which I've seen a lot of people do)
C) Switch to a 6-20 receptacle , and a 20 amp breaker, use the 6-20 nema adapter and call it a day?(which I'm 99% sure would be up to code, but I would only be charging @ 80% of 20 amps when I could be charging @ 80% of 30 amps)
D) Install the wall charger, and go Hot-Hot-Ground (instead of Hot-Hot-"Neutral as ground" like it calls for in the manual)(Which I've seen a lot of people do, and I'm honestly not certain if it would be up to code or not)
Just annoying that there's a perfectly viable 20 and 50 amp solution to a /2 wire run, but as soon as anyone wants to go to 30 amps, all of a sudden everything gets fuzzy with regards to whether or not a neutral is actually required (even though I know 100% it will WORK just fine without it)
I ran a 10/2 (no neutral) run from the panel, to an outdoor, waterproof 6-30 Receptacle, with a 30 amp breaker.
My plan was to buy a nema 6-30P adapter for my mobile charger.
Tesla doesn't make a 6-30 adapter.
They make a 10-30, which, apparently doesn't exist in modern code because it uses a neutral and no ground.
And they make a 14-30 which would be up to code, except I ran 6/2 wire with no neutral.
EVSEadapters.com makes one.. but they're sold out and looks like they have been for a while.NEMA 6-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters
Now I know I can slap either the 10-30 receptacle in there, with the ground as the neutral, or the 14-30 receptacle in there, with the neutral missing, and it will work just fine for my application, but I know neither of those options would be up to code.
So I thought about the wall charger. However, looking at both the gen 2 and gen 3 wall charger, it's kind of the same story as the10-30 plug (neutral and no ground) .... Hot, Hot Neutral: no ground.
Again, I see a bunch of people installing the wall chargers with 2 hots and a ground, and simply running the ground wire to the "neutral" terminal.
But... if the wall connector intentionally places ANY load on that line... say as like an internal 120 volt to 12 volt power supply to run it's own "brain", well now I've got an "intentional load (albeit a very small one) on my ground run........ which again... wouldn't be up to code...
I'm honestly tempted to swap the breaker out for a 20 amp, and simply use a 6-20 plug and call it good enough, but seeing as how I already ran the 10 gauge wire (capable of 80% of 30 amp AKA 24 amps), I feel like that would be under-utilizing that run.
It's too late to replace the wire with a /3
So what do you guys think?
A) Switch to a 10-30 receptacle, use the ground as the neutral, buy the nema adapter and call it a day?(which I've seen a lot of people do)
B) Switch to a 14-30 receptacle , leave the neutral missing, buy the nema adapter and call it a day?(which I've seen a lot of people do)
C) Switch to a 6-20 receptacle , and a 20 amp breaker, use the 6-20 nema adapter and call it a day?(which I'm 99% sure would be up to code, but I would only be charging @ 80% of 20 amps when I could be charging @ 80% of 30 amps)
D) Install the wall charger, and go Hot-Hot-Ground (instead of Hot-Hot-"Neutral as ground" like it calls for in the manual)(Which I've seen a lot of people do, and I'm honestly not certain if it would be up to code or not)
Just annoying that there's a perfectly viable 20 and 50 amp solution to a /2 wire run, but as soon as anyone wants to go to 30 amps, all of a sudden everything gets fuzzy with regards to whether or not a neutral is actually required (even though I know 100% it will WORK just fine without it)
