Charging regularly from a 10-30 outlet

[gg_got_a_tesla]

All, any of you out there charging your Model S consistently from a NEMA 10-30 (older dryer) outlet? How has it worked out?

I'm in the process of moving house from a place that has 200A supply and a gas cooking range to a place that has 125A supply and an electric induction cooking range to boot so, there could be potential load concerns (although I can't imagine being up cooking at 3:00 am while the MS is charging )

I'll be taking the gas dryer with me so, that frees up the 10-30 outlet in the new place for charging my Model S.

I'm thinking of holding off on upgrading the service panel (and PG&E's run to the house) and getting a 14-50 for some time till I figure out my new charging needs. I'll be a lot closer to work - 6 blocks away rather than 27 miles away - and I still have both J1772 and 110V charging options at work. So, the 5.8 kW charging rate from a 24A 10-30 may be good enough for me. I ordered the adapter from the Tesla online store just a couple of days ago and should be getting it soon.

Please share your thoughts, concerns, experience regarding using a 10-30 outlet for the Model S. Also, from the pic and diagram from Tesla's charging page and the online shop, it appears that the L shaped pin slot of the 10-30 receptacle should be on top for the UMC to hang well; please confirm.

Tesla Charging | Tesla Motors

Shop Tesla Gear NEMA 10-30

Thanks in advance!

 

[Cosmacelf]

Charging with the 10-30 should work for you. Just make sure the receptacle is within 20 feet of the Tesla.

 

[Dave EV]

Should be fine. If it were me I'd pull the outlet and make sure the lugs are snug. If it's aluminum wiring, perhaps get some fresh NoAlox on the terminals as well.

You'll only be able to pull 24A on the circuit, so that leaves 101A for other household loads. The range should pull no more than 50A (and intermittently at that), so unless you also have electric water heating or a separate electric oven or a large AC system and you'll be running all of them at the same time, I wouldn't worry about it. Your 125A service can more than likely also handle you charging on a 14-50 without issue...

 

[Greg G]

I've had my Model S for a couple of months now, and have a 14-30 at home that I use to charge each night. So far, it's been working fine for me. I typically drive less than 20 miles per day, and the car recharges in less than 2 hours.

 

[mckemie]

I have a J1772 that I used for my Leaf. The J1772 is fed by about 30' of 10ga wire and has noticealbe voltage drop if I pull 30 amps. So, mostly charge at about 20 amps from the J1772 even though I have 40 amps available that is less conveniently located. Even when I come in nearly empty, 20 amps always gives me plenty overnight.

 

[Banahogg]

Be sure to run the load calculation before you give up on a 14-50. I have a 125A panel as well but had enough load to put in the 14-50, though I did have to use the breaker space for my unused 10-30 in the laundry room.

 

[dsm363]

If this will be a house you plan on living in for many, many years it might be worth looking into upgrading anyway but you'll be fine. Couldn't you upgrade to a NEMA 14-50 but then select 30A or something in the Model S? That way you could dial it up to 40A if you needed to. But since you have a place to charge at work you'll always come home with a full charge. Having something faster at home would be for going on a long drive and needing to charge more quickly before you take off again.

Also, since you have gas to the house for the dryer, getting a gas stove would work too as many people prefer cooking with gas over an electric stove. That would free up that load.

 

[pilotSteve]

I have charged several times at a friend's house with his 10-30 plug. I made my own adapter (10-30 to 6-50) that I, of course, dial down to 24A.

 

[FlasherZ]

Should be fine. If it were me I'd pull the outlet and make sure the lugs are snug. If it's aluminum wiring, perhaps get some fresh NoAlox on the terminals as well.

If you have AL wiring on a 30A circuit, I'd just replace the wiring, especially if you're going to be pulling continuous loads through it.

As for the OP, I too would not give up on the 14-50. 40A continuous isn't too much of a problem in the average home, even with electric range. The only concern I would have is if you had a relatively large and/or old A/C compressor and/or electric heat, plus the MS, plus the electric appliances.

I think you'll probably be okay considering a 50-amp plug. The 30A receptacle will work just fine, too...

One thing to look out for in the Bay Area homes is the use of Federal-Pacific Electric panels. If you have an FPE breaker panel (look for the tell-tale orange bar on the end of the circuit breaker with the amperage in black against it, any mention of "Stab-Lok", or "Federal-Pacific Electric Corporation"), you will want to replace it anyway because of the fire hazard it presents.

 

[mknox]

You'll only be able to pull 24A on the circuit, so that leaves 101A for other household loads.

My home has a 125 amp panel, but the main breaker is only 100 amp. Typically, you de-rate the main to 80% so that leaves me 80 amps on my 125 amp panel. Best to check and see what your main breaker rating is.

 

[Dave EV]

My home has a 125 amp panel, but the main breaker is only 100 amp. Typically, you de-rate the main to 80% so that leaves me 80 amps on my 125 amp panel. Best to check and see what your main breaker rating is.

Maybe that's typical in Canada, but in the USA I've never heard of derating the main breaker by 80% as a standard. The only time I've heard of derating the main breaker from the service panel rating is when you want to add more solar PV than 20% of your main panel capacity.

For example, if you have a 100A panel and a 100A main breaker, you can only add 20A of PV. But if you install a 75A main breaker then you would be able to add up to 45A of PV.

 

[mknox]

Maybe that's typical in Canada, but in the USA I've never heard of derating the main breaker by 80% as a standard.

It could be a Canadian Electrical Code thing. You're not supposed to load the total panel/main breaker to more than 80% of its nameplate rating.

 

[gg_got_a_tesla]

Thanks, all, for the very helpful input. I'll take a second look at the wiring and the service panel for sure.

I'm trying to hold off on changing anything in there (such as even changing the outlet to a 14-50) till I look at installing a Solar PV system; I'm going to miss having Solar (that I have on my current home in Newark) atleast for a while. Got to settle into the new home (with all the expenses that come along with a home purchase, home improvements and move!) before I take that on.

Much like 60's the new 85 (in terms of actual kWh that I ended up needing), maybe, 10-30/24A is the new 14-50/40A and may more than meet my needs

Got notification that Tesla's shipped out my 10-30 adapter by FedEx today so, looking good there.

Ps: Dave (dsm363), electric induction cooking (and not the older electric coil burners) is all the rage now. Supposedly even more efficient than gas burners. Got a new range since there was no direct gas line to the kitchen area and it'd have taken some painful rerouting of the gas lines.

 

[dsm363]

Ah, didn't know that about the new ranges. Sounds good. You'll be fine on the 24A for daily use especially since you can charge at work. Congrats on the new place.

 

[mitch672]

gg, if Tesla falls though getting you your 10-30, I have a spare (don't ask, long story). LMK if you need it, I was going to return it to Tesla if no one needs it.

 

[FlasherZ]

Electric induction ranges are wonderful things. They can boil water in 3 minutes. They are far more efficient, but from an electrical standpoint they tend to be rated at nearly the same as another range, they just focus more of the energy on delivering heat to the food. Most cooktops weigh in at 30-35A, free-standing ranges (because of resistive oven element) at 40-50A.

They require steel or cast iron pans.

 

[gg_got_a_tesla]

We got this one (and it's just the cooktop without an oven) that's rated at 40A! And, yes, been making sure that the pans we have (or are going to get) pass the magnet test at the bottom.

Jeez... way OT for TMC!

 

[tezco]

I have a J1772 that I used for my Leaf. The J1772 is fed by about 30' of 10ga wire and has noticealbe voltage drop if I pull 30 amps. So, mostly charge at about 20 amps from the J1772 even though I have 40 amps available that is less conveniently located. Even when I come in nearly empty, 20 amps always gives me plenty overnight.

I charge at 20 amps with my J1772 also. I don't think I've ever spent more than 6 hours charging at one sitting.

 

[aaronw]

I charge with a NEMA 14-30 outlet. I had to make an extension cord (using 10 gauge wire) but it's been working well for me since March until I get the HPWC installed.

 

[gnelson]

I have a J1772 that I used for my Leaf. The J1772 is fed by about 30' of 10ga wire and has noticealbe voltage drop if I pull 30 amps. So, mostly charge at about 20 amps from the J1772 even though I have 40 amps available that is less conveniently located. Even when I come in nearly empty, 20 amps always gives me plenty overnight.

I have a Blink charger for my Volt and planned to use it for the Tesla as well. I just asked the building engineer about the circuit breaker on the service to my Blink. He said it was a 20 amp breaker. How do I keep the Tesla from treipping the breaker? The Volt would never trip the breaker since it always draws less than 20 amps.