Charging stopped-rebuild title

[erniejenson]

When you disconnect the black plug on the battery, the contactor in the main battery goes clunk isolating the battery from the car. I can't think of any reason why total isolation wouldn't be the case. If I can't get cooperation from Tesla and no independent for months, Than I will learn more about the battery. Make a hole in the case, insert an orange two conductor high voltage wire connecting one end to the plus and the other to the negative. When I want to charge I will make a calculation of charge time for the main battery to get to 75%, open my trunk and rear door, pull the black plug on the main battery , disconnect the 12 volt battery, connect my 400 volt DC to the battery, set the timer and go to bed . I will do this until rooters get up to speed or Tesla changes their policy. Of course I will have to isolate my car from Tesla. I have also installed manual frunk opening. I can show anyone how easy this is. It works perfectly with all the plastic in place and does not interfere with electrical operation.

Two days ago I call three of the Tesla service centers, with in an hour of my driven time, requesting the part number of the front main bumper. No one will answer the phone but two of them make leaving a mesage possible. Left a message at both. Mine looks different than the one in the parts list. No answer so far. Tomorrow I will search the internet for an updated parts list. If I can find the part number, I will send a company purchase order by email and see what happens. I gave one my vin number and not the other.

 

[linux-works]

I don't mean to discourage you, but I think you will have a hard time trying to get a computer working without the 'ok' from the maker of said computer.

I co-own my model 3 with the vendor. I don't like it that way, but its how it is, right now. they hold all the cards, pretty much and they can turn the big switch off and its hard to fight that and win. you can try rooting (etc) but its not going to keep you current and you really do want to stay current. you can't tell which updates are truly safety related and which are just feature adds or removals.

I work in the field (for a car maker) and I have a little understanding of how much 'stuff' is under the hood, in a comparable car. my background is software but I also do lots of hardware work, as well (on and off the clock). that said, I consider my model 3 to be a driver's car and not a 'fixers car'. I don't even consider it repairable by non-factory personnel (overall). again, I don't LIKE that, but its kind of how it is right now - until there are more vendors on the market in the same sector.

it might be possible for me to get more access to my own car, but I just choose not to. there are enough things I can hack and play around with. some things are better left to those that have the full manuals, specs, access to *parts* and so on.

tesla chooses to be closed. I would not, myself, want to take on a project where the very vendor is not on my side and actively trying to stop non-authorized repair shops from doing anything meaningful to these cars. if the vendor is going to fight me, I'd rather spend my energy on better persuits.

the car is great to drive. I'm hoping I just drive it and not have to get any repairs done. if any are needed, sigh, it has to go back to the vendor.

good luck.

 

[kkillebrew]

To TSA pilot. Who said that I am driving it around with four air bags deployed. I drive it from the parking stall in my garage to the rack where I work on the car. I have been doing all the work on the car first and airbags last as I have an airbag guy who replaces them for a living. I need a certified person for airbags so that I can get the car certified with Tesla if that is my choice. I run a busness repairing automobiles and know what has to be done when repairing a car with a rebuilt title. I have to get the car finished and have it inspected by the state of California before I get a licience to drive the car on the road. The works does not have to be done by a Tesla certified shop. We can go into the subject of Tesla certified shops, but that is not the subject for today. However I do drive my MG, Corvette and Jaguar with out airbags as there is another world out there. The world before airbags and even seatbelts. I usually don't post on an open forum like this, rather, I post on professional forms, but in this case the professional forums aren't any help with a Tesla. They ane interested at they see the oppertunity in the future and I will be givving them my experience with the Tesla. For those with constructive comments I thank you. For the others, please lets stay on the subject of how to enable the charging. TSA, I won't tell you how and when to fly your airplane.

You will soon learn that this forum is not only unkind, but rude to DIYers. FUD rules among the M3 hipsters here. I think what you are doing is great, pay zero attention to anyone who talks about certification because it's a micro-aggressive over used buzz word (especially regarding electrical) mostly asserted by those who have no clue as to what they are talking about. You likely have forgotten far more than they know. Good Luck! Fire away FUDsters, shame on you all!

 

[ElectricIAC]

OP, have you considered having a chat with Rich from Electrified Garage?

 

[erniejenson]

I was given Tesla position papers on support of a salvage titled car from mp3Mike and I think they have changed their position. I am really hopping so. I have done salvage cars before and have given them to my employees and then maintained them for years. I have never intended to sell them; they are all still running and have been very reliable. I knew of Tesla's position, so I choose a car with little damage thinking that I wouldn't need any help. No car goes to salvage with less damage than a Tesla. I think they beat Lambos and Bentleys. I didn't think they could get around the car service laws like they have so far. I was thinking about buying a S and then I read all abut the 3 and bought this one for experience. I will drive it a while and give it to one of my enployees and might then buy a new Tesla S. I think they have the problems worked out now. I wouldn't buy a used S as I think they will be hard to sell when the warranties expire because of the reliability record and the cost for service. It will be interesting how the new Porsche does on reliability. Why wouldn't an electric car be the most reliable?

Did you post that your storage scope went psst? Then you needed a new one anyway. Joke Mine is still working, see picture.

kkillebrew As long as I meet people on this forum like you, it's worth taking a little crap from those that are probably jealous or have an image problem and need to put others down. Really, the forum is great and I will end up OK. I am a lucky guy.

 

[erniejenson]

I called The Electrified Garage and they couldn't do anything if the car couldn't be sent to them. They are too far away for me.

 

[MP3Mike]

@erniejenson I don't know if you have seen it yet or not but someone has posted a link to download the Model 3 Service and Body repair manuals: Model 3 Service Manual (It doesn't help with things that you need the toolbox software for, but it lets you see how everything comes apart and what the proper procedures are.)

There is also someone who setup online access to them: http://v12.dyndns.org/Tesla/ (But it was very slow for me.)

Legality is questionable as Tesla sells access, in some states, for $3,000/year. You can buy them from people on e-bay for ~$80 but they are really just selling pirated manuals, so if you are going that route you might as well just download the free ones.

 

[erniejenson]

smatthew, thank you for your last post. That is the kind of information that I need. I need all that information before I trailer my car 75 miles. I want to know what issues I will be up against and prepared for ahead of time. I don't want to get rejected, sent home and have to start all over again. Thank you MP3Mike, I will send the documentation that you gave me with my purchase orders. Everyone should know that Tesla is now a very large corporation. They are growing so fast that they can't easily accommodate their regular customers, say nothing about the goof- balls like me that want to rebuild cars. We don't have the latest parts list, we are learning and we waste their time. We are used to other car companies that have a large inventory of parts on shelves waiting to be sold to anyone. It is a major profit center. There is a guy sitting at the telephone at every dealership that can give advice and sell you the right part. Tesla is not there yet. Tesla's market, right now, is the large metropolitan areas where they can provide the service center. Tesla Service Centers have to send out the cars to independents for collusion repair. I could only find one in the LA area that did collision repair in house. Now when I say collision repair, I mean hit in a door or fender not scratch on the bumper cover . Times are changing, when Tesla gets competition, they will find the time to service us also . When they have to move out to the whole world they too will need the independents. How many Teslas do you see in Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska.......... Go to Santa Monica or Beverly Hills, they are everywhere. Is Tesla going to drive 100 miles to fix a door handle? But then on the other hand, who will fix your car in the drive way but Tesla?

Please forgive me for my long winded posts. I am now corresponding with a number of people privately that are doing the same thing that I am doing and hopefully, my mistakes can save them time. The details are for them and my getting specific information.

 

[user212_nr]

If I can't get cooperation from Tesla and no independent for months, Than I will learn more about the battery. Make a hole in the case, insert an orange two conductor high voltage wire connecting one end to the plus and the other to the negative. When I want to charge I will make a calculation of charge time for the main battery to get to 75%, open my trunk and rear door, pull the black plug on the main battery , disconnect the 12 volt battery, connect my 400 volt DC to the battery, set the timer and go to bed . I will do this until rooters get up to speed or Tesla changes their policy. Of course I will have to isolate my car from Tesla. I have also installed manual frunk opening. I can show anyone how easy this is. It works perfectly with all the plastic in place and does not interfere with electrical operation.

You do realize that you can supply the 400v DC via the charge port and bypass the onboard charger?

Get a "Chademo adapter" and tow the car to your nearest chademo charge point. The adapters are sold out on Tesla site, but available on eBay. You'll need one in any case, since you are unlikely to ever supercharge again.

I don't know what the specs are for chademo and the supercharger plug, but you can always tow it to see if it works. DC charging bypasses the onboard charger.

tesla chademo | eBay

 

[ElectricIAC]

Doesn’t the SC bit also turn off all DC fast charging? (Which isn’t right but that’s not what this is about)

 

[user212_nr]

Doesn’t the SC bit also turn off all DC fast charging? (Which isn’t right but that’s not what this is about)

The salvage car does not get SC due to Tesla restriction. He can access other third party DC charging and that can show if he has a bad charger, if DC charging works but not AC.

 

[erniejenson]

I have 30 miles of range left in the battery. Are you sure that the DC won't be stopped also. If I knew that would work, then I would get a chadmoe adapter right away. Otherwise I have to flat bed the car to the DMV, 20 miles and to Tesla for certification, 75 miles. The connector would save that cost and if Tesla can't fix the car or won't I could drive it home again and anywhere until I find someone to fix the probglem.. I live West of LA 60 miles and would' be happy to pick it up in an ICE Jag and return it so I would know. You guys are great!

 

[MP3Mike]

The salvage car does not get SC due to Tesla restriction. He can access other third party DC charging and that can show if he has a bad charger, if DC charging works but not AC.

Everything I have seen says that Tesla disables all DC fast charging on salvage vehicles. Be that Supercharger, CCS, or CHAdeMO.

 

[MP3Mike]

I have 30 miles of range left in the battery. Are you sure that the DC won't be stopped also. If I knew that would work, then I would get a chadmoe adapter right away.

The only way for you to know would be to try. Some CHAdeMO stations have the adapter tethered to them, and some places/user groups have adapters that you can borrow... (Though I haven't kept track.)

 

[user212_nr]

Everything I have seen says that Tesla disables all DC fast charging on salvage vehicles. Be that Supercharger, CCS, or CHAdeMO.

Well if you have seen something, please re-post. Most likely, people are using the words DC-fast-charging and supercharging as interchangeable terms, given how few non-supercharger DC-fast-charging stations there are, and how rarely they are used.

As I understand it, Tesla is not actively disabling the cars, which would be an offense to the owner's property, but rather they are refusing to provide supercharging. Supposedly it is done to "protect their supercharger network", whatever that means.

 

[ord3r]

You may try reaching out to Yaro_S (u/Yaro_S) - Reddit if Sacramento is not too far for you.

 

[user212_nr]

I have 30 miles of range left in the battery. Are you sure that the DC won't be stopped also. If I knew that would work, then I would get a chadmoe adapter right away. Otherwise I have to flat bed the car to the DMV, 20 miles and to Tesla for certification, 75 miles. The connector would save that cost and if Tesla can't fix the car or won't I could drive it home again and anywhere until I find someone to fix the probglem.. I live West of LA 60 miles and would' be happy to pick it up in an ICE Jag and return it so I would know. You guys are great!

I suppose that my comment is more a reaction to your statement of wanting to put 400V DC directly into the battery to charge it. I don't know enough about the charging to say if it would work.

One thing is that you will need the chademo adapter in the case where you ever get the car fixed because you won't have access to Tesla supercharger network, meaning, that you will need to use chademo stations to road trip or whatever.

 

[MP3Mike]

Well if you have seen something, please re-post. Most likely, people are using the words DC-fast-charging and supercharging as interchangeable terms, given how few non-supercharger DC-fast-charging stations there are, and how rarely they are used.

https://electrek.co/2020/02/12/tesla-disables-supercharging-salvaged-vehicles/

A tipster sent Electrek a memo that Tesla sent to employees about updating its ‘Unsupported Vehicle Policy’ and it now includes the following line:

“Supercharging and/or ‘fast charging’ through 3rd party chargers of the Salvage-Titled vehicle is permanently disabled.”

 

[erniejenson]

I just called EVgo and they are installing the adapters in LA but don't know when they get to us. What do you think my odds are that the charge port will not allow charging of any kind? The DC charging connector has a plug that looks like the Tesla plug with two larger contacts right below. I think it willl talk to my charging port and get a signal to not charge DC at EVgo also. I have bought most of my parts from Yaro but he is really a busy guy and I hate to waste his time. Sacramento is quite a drive also, seven hours maybe. When I finally get throgh this issue I will post so that everybody that has helped me will know.

 

[erniejenson]

I don't think I will need a chademo connector because I have several other cars that I like to drive, a XJR and a XKR, when taking trips thay are very fast, confortable, and have ranges of 350 miles. I will charge the Tesla at home and drive it around our local area.