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Charging the Roadster

Discussion in 'Roadster 2008-2012' started by malcolm, Sep 14, 2008.

  1. strider

    strider Active Member

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    L2 seems to work fine. While I was fiddling w/ my plug a guy in a Leaf showed up but didn't have a card. As I was in the process of giving up on my EVSE I used my card to authorize his charge (charging is free at SFO).

    I also like the conditional payment feature as my company was planning to make the chargers public to qualify for the tax credit but still provide free charging to employees.
     
  2. strider

    strider Active Member

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    Were you using L1 or L2?
     
  3. bonnie

    bonnie Oil is for sissies.

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    I was using L2.
     
  4. mpt

    mpt Electrics are back

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    Just to be clear; the Coulomb chargers have worked for me on the J1772 feed. The first time though, pre-firmware update it was sketchy getting started. Sorry, no help with the 120v charging issue but a data point I guess.

    ...I'm just going to go and find something useful to do...
     
  5. DaveD

    DaveD EVs Kick Gas!

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    If I understand you, you left the GFCI on the MC120. That's probably interacting with the GFCI circuitry in the Coulomb unit.
     
  6. TEG

    TEG TMC Moderator

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    Somewhat related:
    FAQ Overview - ChargePoint Network
     
  7. strider

    strider Active Member

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    Yeah, I still have the stock GFCI on the MC120. I was planning to replace the plug (because of physical fitment limitations) but figured the mini extension cord would work.

    The unit kept displaying, "open door and insert plug". I never heard any relays click in the unit and it never displayed a fault (Roadster kept saying to plug in charging cable or whatever). It was like it wasn't even trying, like it kept waiting for me to close the door but I couldn't get the door to close. I'll try to replace the plug and give it another shot.
     
  8. TEG

    TEG TMC Moderator

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    Looks like it is meant to close...
    Driver Assistance: Using a Charging Station - ChargePoint Network
     
  9. strider

    strider Active Member

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    Woah, my 6" extension cord has translucent heads. Based on the "IMPORTANT!" note above, I wonder if that was the problem all along? It wasn't detecting a plug so it wasn't activating the door locking mechanism? Seems overly complicated to me, you'd think there's be a simpler mechanical check to determine if a plug was inserted. Weird. Well, thanks TEG! I guess I'll plan to replace the stock GFCI w/ an OPAQUE head :p
     
  10. TEG

    TEG TMC Moderator

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    Glad I could help! Sounds like your problem has been explained.
     
  11. JRP3

    JRP3 Hyperactive Member

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    Maybe try wrapping your plug in black electrical tape, or heat shrink.
     
  12. vfx

    vfx Well-Known Member

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    I thought it was the neon bulb.
     
  13. JRP3

    JRP3 Hyperactive Member

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    That makes more sense, though they did say clear or transparent plugs, not lighted. I suppose there is no reason to have a clear plug if it doesn't light up.
     
  14. vfx

    vfx Well-Known Member

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    Actually hospital grade plugs are clear (with no lights)

    Presumably to see flaws.
     
  15. strider

    strider Active Member

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    Mine doesn't light up - it's just translucent.
     
  16. dadaleus

    dadaleus 4GETOIL P85#S70,FdrX,S85D

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    Question (also posted to teslamotors.com): I'm putting in a NEMA 14-50 at my work's second office 130 miles from my home. Anyone else put an on/off switch in line to the outlet? Any risk plugging in or unplugging from a live outlet? Of course I'd stop charging first. The electrician at our first office put in such a switch and it is nice to know I'm not going to accidentally zap myself by only turning it on once the plug is connected, but not sure how much actual risk there is.
     
  17. TEG

    TEG TMC Moderator

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    Just don't have the UMC plugged into the Roadster when you plug the 14-50 end into the socket and all will be well.
    Obviously don't ever touch the pins. No need for a switch.
     
  18. mpt

    mpt Electrics are back

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    I don't see a risk in having the outlet live all the time. You can plug in the UMC at any point. There is a negotiation that takes place between the car and the charger before any current flows so it doesn't really matter what order you assemble everything though plugging the UMC in first before the car would have it all ready sooner.

    As for unplugging, if you disconnect the car (slide back the switch), the current stops so you can unplug the UMC without issue.

    The only danger is if you unplug the UMC and reach round to touch the contacts with your finger ends as you unplug it - that's hard to do. In the US, each pin is only 120v to ground (you) so, whilst it'll give you a fizz & it's not recommended, I've never experienced anything painful plus, the same connector can be found on thousands of camp grounds across America - outside, in the rain.
     
  19. donauker

    donauker Member

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    I did opt to install a switch for my NEMA 14-50 for several reasons. My RFMC stays plugged in most of the time so I wanted a way to eliminate the parasitic lose when unused and since it has no contactor it also eliminates power at the connector. Safety when plugging and unplugging is also a factor. In the case of campground outlets it is common practice and also highly recommended that the breakers remain off until after plugging in and be turned off before unplugging!

    Unless you have the NEMA 14-50 with the molded handle it is very easy to contact the two hot pins when unplugging, especially with a brand new receptacle that tends to grip the plug prongs tightly.
     
  20. TEG

    TEG TMC Moderator

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    The main thing you don't want to do is unplug the 14-50 while the car is charging.
    Always make sure to unscrew the Tesla end from the car before unplugging the 14-50 side.
    (Or stop charging from the VDS, but might as well just unplug from the car first.)
     

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