I am unable to charge my 2008 Roadster with the timer. I have been charging it manually for the last two or three years. While charging it recently it overcharged and I was then unable to move the car for a couple of days. I took it in for a repair estimate a couple years ago and they said I had to replace the battery because a part had failed, causing the problem with the timer. I don't remember the name of the part but I think it had a three letter acronym? Any idea how long I will be able to continue to charge the battery as is? I was thinking I could by a 240 volt timer to do the job. I don't see why that wouldn't work? I'm getting ready to sell the car and I think whether or not the car can continue to be charged as is could make a huge difference in its value.
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Charging Timer Doesn't Work
- Thread starter Pantera Dude
- Start date
wiztecy
Active Member
The logic to shut down the charger has nothing to do with a timer. Typically when charging, they're looking at voltage and when a particular voltage is hit say for standard mode charge or range mode they'll turn off the charge / disconnect the contactor.
As for a 3 character acronym, you're just guessing. GPS? PEM? etc?
Best to dig up that estimate and try to put down what they actually said rather than guessing. The only timer the Roadster has is based upon time of day to charge at, you can set a time for the charge to start but not end just via the Roadster itself.
Lastly if you overcharged your Roadster this would cause permanent unrecoverable damage to the cell and even a possible fire which is very very dangerous. Charging in Roadster and then driving in Range mode or even std mode after a range mode charge will disable regen due to the fact that putting more charge into the battery would be detrimental to the battery's health as I mentioned.
As for a 3 character acronym, you're just guessing. GPS? PEM? etc?
Best to dig up that estimate and try to put down what they actually said rather than guessing. The only timer the Roadster has is based upon time of day to charge at, you can set a time for the charge to start but not end just via the Roadster itself.
Lastly if you overcharged your Roadster this would cause permanent unrecoverable damage to the cell and even a possible fire which is very very dangerous. Charging in Roadster and then driving in Range mode or even std mode after a range mode charge will disable regen due to the fact that putting more charge into the battery would be detrimental to the battery's health as I mentioned.
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
I don't think the OP is using the term "timer" the same way we're interpreting it.
@Pantera Dude, are you saying that the car will continue to charge and never stop on it's own? Or will it not charge on the schedule you set on the screen?
@Pantera Dude, are you saying that the car will continue to charge and never stop on it's own? Or will it not charge on the schedule you set on the screen?
The car doesn't start charging as scheduled. The acronym was not GPS or Pem and it is a part within the battery pack that they don't replace, they replace the entire battery. The estimate was verbal, no paperwork. I don't know about permanent damage, there is no evidence of that, which I can see?
I don't have OVMS but if that would solve the problem, that would be very good! It seems like I brought this up a couple years ago and the subject of the OVMS might have come up? I "think" someone might have suggested that it would not solve the problem? I could be mistaken which would be a good thing!
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The problem began with the car not charging as scheduled and that went on for a year or two? I believe it was the second to the last time I charged it, (I haven't been driving the car so I don't charge it often), it overcharged itself, and I believe it said something to that effect.
That might be it? Auxiliary Power System? Would there be such a thing within the battery pack and could it cause the problem?
It was in fact the APS of auxiliary power supply. I found the old thread "Timer Not Working" from 2013. I "think" another Roadster owner came over to my house with his OVMS and it didn't solve the problem?
wiztecy
Active Member
Gotcha. Thanks! I highly would have the APS replaced, which Tesla would swap out the pack. It shouldn't cost as much as a brand new pack but rather the cost of servicing the APS. If a sheet is bad in the pack they'll give a refurbished pack and charge $5k for the total package. So I think you'd be around or under that since its not the battery cells that went south which cost some cash.
Be aware that the APS on the 1.5 will out of the blue immobilize the Roadster at any given moment of the defect gets worse. Meaning if you pull out from an intersection the car has a high probability of 100% loosing power, meaning you'll be disabled and a sitting duck. And as you know that can be quite dangerous.
Reason I know this is I had my APS go out on my 1.5 back when I had 20k on it. Luckily I wasn't put into a dangerous situation, going for a joy ride a couple of blocks from my house. Car gave a bunch of warning bells/bings and went dead. Turned the key on/off, nothing. Waited 5 minutes and the car became active all to die withing 500 feet of that. Repeated the steps and drove home the next couple of blocks and emailed Tesla. My original warranty at the time was 3 months expired, however Tesla honored it by repairing the Roadster under goodwill.
Be aware that the APS on the 1.5 will out of the blue immobilize the Roadster at any given moment of the defect gets worse. Meaning if you pull out from an intersection the car has a high probability of 100% loosing power, meaning you'll be disabled and a sitting duck. And as you know that can be quite dangerous.
Reason I know this is I had my APS go out on my 1.5 back when I had 20k on it. Luckily I wasn't put into a dangerous situation, going for a joy ride a couple of blocks from my house. Car gave a bunch of warning bells/bings and went dead. Turned the key on/off, nothing. Waited 5 minutes and the car became active all to die withing 500 feet of that. Repeated the steps and drove home the next couple of blocks and emailed Tesla. My original warranty at the time was 3 months expired, however Tesla honored it by repairing the Roadster under goodwill.
Thank you! It's nice to hear from someone who has experienced this. I'm the second owner of the car. The problem started two or three months after the warranty expired. They would not honor it. They gave me the verbal estimate of $5500 to replace the battery. If I only knew then what I know now... I chose not to replace it at that time because the problem wasn't much of an inconvenience to me. Last year or the year before when I started thinking about selling the car, I decided to take them up on the offer to replace the battery for $5500. They declined and told me it would be $29K for a replacement battery. (The person that made the offer no longer worked for Tesla. He had called someone to get the price of the replacement battery). That was the only option they gave me, they would not replace the part, I was NOT happy. I went round and round with them and spoke to supervisors and supervisor's supervisors until I could see that it wasn't going to happen. In fact it ended when someone at a fairly high level failed to call me back. If anyone has an idea as to how I might get this fixed without spending 29K, I'm all ears!
Thank you again Wiztecy.
I don't think the APS would cause the charge problems you are having. It could make the car die and leave you stranded, but all it does is supply dual 12V circuits to the car electronics and various modules. If either circuit fails the car stops working. It wouldn't just leave the "timer" inoperable. The BMS, PEM and VMS all interact to control the charging.
wiztecy
Active Member
I also agree with MAUTO in that its rather odd that the APS could affect the charge timer and the outcome of a bad APS is what I described where it cuts out and leaves the car dead.
Is the Roadster outputting any type of error messages when you're experiencing the issue?
Is the Roadster outputting any type of error messages when you're experiencing the issue?
Below is what I wrote after they diagnosed the problem. Maybe they were wrong? I just tried charging the battery using the timer. It read: Charging Problem ID:981 Data:0x00010000 The light at the charge port door was blinking red.
Pantera Dude, Jan 9, 2014
When I took my car in for the 36K service I had them check out the problem with the timer/charger. It took them many hours to diagnose. It looks like I was the first lucky customer to experience the problem? They said the bad part was the Auxiliary Power Supply or APS which is located in the main battery box. The estimate to repair, wait for it, a cool $5500! I'd like to have a working timer but I don't want it that bad! It would have involved swapping my battery out for another which would have had a 12 month warranty.
I think they wrong about the APS if the car works fine otherwise. Code 981 does't show up on my diagnostic chart, so they were probably just guessing. Personally I think the "timer" is controlled solely by the VMS. Does your compass and elevation show correctly on the VDS display?
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