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Can anyone tell me what kind of adapter and extension cord I would need to use this spare dryer outlet to charge a LR MY? Thanks!!
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In theory if the installer of the wires was doing their job correctly, there should be no fire risk. The breaker >should< be limited by the wire size and if you draw enough current to make the wires hazardous, the breaker should trip.Else you can overload wires, with fire risk.
I'm not sure if you know this yet, but as long as you are just using the regular Tesla equipment, with one of their adapters for that dryer outlet attached to the mobile charging cable, you do not need to manually adjust current. The adapters have a chip in them that signals the proper amount of amps for that plug type, so it would have automatically set it for 24A anyway.Have a 30 amp dryer at my vacation home. Dropped amp in the vehicle to 24 amps and plugged it in. Charged at 21 mi/hr. Worked perfectly
Ya I was in a hurry to buy one and purchased this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image after further research I realized Tesla had one. I have not tried it yet but I expect it will lower voltage as you stated. Now I have two but that's okI'm not sure if you know this yet, but as long as you are just using the regular Tesla equipment, with one of their adapters for that dryer outlet attached to the mobile charging cable, you do not need to manually adjust current. The adapters have a chip in them that signals the proper amount of amps for that plug type, so it would have automatically set it for 24A anyway.
It's not adjusting voltage, by the way; it's amps. But no, that will not automatically signal the right amperage. The signaling is from a chip in the Tesla adapters. That cable you bought is just a cable that lets you plug into a 10-30 outlet, but then makes you use your Tesla 14-50 plug. That 14-50 Tesla plug will think that it is a 50A outlet type, and will signal the car to use the max that the mobile charging cable can do, 32A, which will overdraw that circuit and trip the breaker (hopefully). We used to have to do that stuff years ago, when Tesla had a very slim selection of adapters, and we had to adapt almost everything to 14-50, and I do actually have a cable just like that one from back then, but it's not a very good solution for now.Ya I was in a hurry to buy one and purchased this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image after further research I realized Tesla had one. I have not tried it yet but I expect it will lower voltage as you stated. Now I have two but that's ok
We have a condo in Palm Beach County and hot water heaters that are plugged into an 240v electrical outlet no longer meet code. Our hot water heater is hard wired to a on/off switch that we turn off when we are not there.Hello. I have a similar question/issue. My garage water heater outlet installed by previous home owner) is labeled a 10-30R (on it's own 30Amp breaker) so I bought the Tesla 10-30 adapter for my mobile charger. It starts charging fine but stops charging with a code of 4 red light blinks whenever the microwave is used (different circuit breaker). After looking at the chart above, I have a feeling the charger doesn't like this connection because it doesn't have a ground connection.
My neighbor knows a little about electrical and suggested changing the dryer outlet to a 4 prong 14-30R connection since the current outlet has a 4th wire to support the it. (Ground wire sits in back of the box currently). I would need to purchase a Tesla 14-30 connection instead of the 10-30 I originally bought.
Wondering if anyone else experienced this and if they attempted this solution with any success.
Thanks.
Oh, well that doesn't really need any consultation. That is a perfect solution that will absolutely work! If the extra ground wire is in there, then it can easily be converted to a 14-30.My neighbor knows a little about electrical and suggested changing the dryer outlet to a 4 prong 14-30R connection since the current outlet has a 4th wire to support the it. (Ground wire sits in back of the box currently). I would need to purchase a Tesla 14-30 connection instead of the 10-30 I originally bought.
Wondering if anyone else experienced this and if they attempted this solution with any success.
Wow. Thanks for explaining the logic behind that suggestion. I'm more inclined to move forward now.Oh, well that doesn't really need any consultation. That is a perfect solution that will absolutely work! If the extra ground wire is in there, then it can easily be converted to a 14-30.
The Tesla plug needs to use something as if it is a ground. On the 10-30, it's a little hand waving, where they map the "ground" on the Tesla charging plug to that slot in the 10-30 outlet that is actually a neutral. They both should be about at 0 volts, so that normally works fine. But as you found, that neutral bus is used for current return on 120V circuits through the house, so heavy loads on it can bounce that neutral around some above or below 0V, and it upsets the Tesla charging equipment that thinks something is wrong with the supposed "ground".
So yes, switching over to the 14-30 so the Tesla plug can use a real ground as ground that won't have current on it elsewhere in the house's wiring will stabilize that.
Since ground and neutral are linked at the main panel, I would expect that the neutral getting dragged away from 0 volts would simultaneously drag the ground away the same amount. Unless of course the installer did some crazy stuff like piggyback the neutral line into some other 120V circuits along the way.Oh, well that doesn't really need any consultation. That is a perfect solution that will absolutely work! If the extra ground wire is in there, then it can easily be converted to a 14-30.
The Tesla plug needs to use something as if it is a ground. On the 10-30, it's a little hand waving, where they map the "ground" on the Tesla charging plug to that slot in the 10-30 outlet that is actually a neutral. They both should be about at 0 volts, so that normally works fine. But as you found, that neutral bus is used for current return on 120V circuits through the house, so heavy loads on it can bounce that neutral around some above or below 0V, and it upsets the Tesla charging equipment that thinks something is wrong with the supposed "ground".
So yes, switching over to the 14-30 so the Tesla plug can use a real ground as ground that won't have current on it elsewhere in the house's wiring will stabilize that.
What does your reported voltage on the car's screen say when its just starting charging(0-5 amps), charging at 24 amps, and charging at 24 amps when the microwave gets turned on? You could be seeing effects of a weak connection, either to your 10-30 outlet, the main power feed to your home(whether that's your meter, your main circuit breaker, or whatever), or even a weak(or overloaded) power pole transformer.Hello. I have a similar question/issue. My garage water heater outlet installed by previous home owner) is labeled a 10-30R (on it's own 30Amp breaker) so I bought the Tesla 10-30 adapter for my mobile charger. It starts charging fine but stops charging with a code of 4 red light blinks whenever the microwave is used (different circuit breaker). After looking at the chart above, I have a feeling the charger doesn't like this connection because it doesn't have a ground connection.
My neighbor knows a little about electrical and suggested changing the dryer outlet to a 4 prong 14-30R connection since the current outlet has a 4th wire to support the it. (Ground wire sits in back of the box currently). I would need to purchase a Tesla 14-30 connection instead of the 10-30 I originally bought.
Wondering if anyone else experienced this and if they attempted this solution with any success.
Thanks.
So... This evening I went to Home Depot and picked up the 4 prong outlet. While removing the old 3 prong I noticed the wires were slightly loose. I proceeded to change the outlet and made sure it was pretty tight...What does your reported voltage on the car's screen say when its just starting charging(0-5 amps), charging at 24 amps, and charging at 24 amps when the microwave gets turned on? You could be seeing effects of a weak connection, either to your 10-30 outlet, the main power feed to your home(whether that's your meter, your main circuit breaker, or whatever), or even a weak(or overloaded) power pole transformer.