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Chart of Wiring/Breaker/Conduit for Tesla Wall Connector

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Solarguy bought used 100A Square D disconnect switches on ebay for $75 ($450 new). He has a nice post with pictures here:
NEMA 14-50 Installation - should I go ahead and get two? - Page 2

The part number is Square D DU323 to search for on ebay. I just checked and there are lots of them listed for great prices. Besides the code and safely factors for installing a disconnect the ability to use oversized wire from the main panel to the disconnect and lowering resistance/heat was my main objective.
 
Question. I have the S without the onboard charger upgrade. The max specs per the High Power Wall connector (HPWC) for my car is 48 amp draw with a 60 amp breaker and am considering what size wire to run. The Romex NM 6/2 and 6/3 is rated for 55 amps. Even though this 6 gauge wire is only rated for 55amps, I have read elsewhere that 6/2 and 6/3 would be appropriate (code and safety) for this installation because of the 48 amp draw and the 60 amp breaker is closes to 55. I will run in conduit. Does anyone have direct experience have a view? My second question is: It looks like the HPWC only needs 6/2 and not 6/3. Is this correct? L1- Black L2 - Use the white (but mark it as red or black for hot). Bare copper for ground (is this okay, or do we need green insulated wire to ground). Neutral not needed.
 
Check your local code about running the wires in conduit. I'm getting a new 14-50 socket installed, and in researching where to put it, the electrician noted that if we locate it in a place where part of the run is in conduit (most is simply under the house), we'd need to strip off the outer sheath of the Romex first - just run the individual (insulated!) wires through the conduit by themselves. I'm guessing this is to prevent the build-up of excessive heat.

My 50-amp circuit (40 amp charging) could run #6 wire, but I chose to use "#4/3 with ground" to give some headroom, and to reduce the voltage drop. The run is just under 40 feet end-to-end. Given the cost to run wires, I'd pull the most you can afford. My Roadster can charge at 70 amps, but my EVSE can't supply that much, so we're doing just the 50 amp circuit now, with the knowledge that a simple breaker change and a new EVSE in the garage could enable the higher rate if I should need it in the future. I'm also adding a pair of dedicated 20 amp 120v GFI sockets by pulling a length of 12/3 as well. If nothing else, it would provide a convenient backup socket near the car in the event the EVSE goes bad.

I believe you are correct that most EVSEs don't use the neutral line, just the two hots and ground. Depending on what form your wires are (individual strands, or bundled as Romex), including the neutral line may not cost much if anything. Again, it could be cheaper to pull it now, than trying to add it later.
 
Check your local code about running the wires in conduit. I'm getting a new 14-50 socket installed, and in researching where to put it, the electrician noted that if we locate it in a place where part of the run is in conduit (most is simply under the house), we'd need to strip off the outer sheath of the Romex first - just run the individual (insulated!) wires through the conduit by themselves. I'm guessing this is to prevent the build-up of excessive heat.

My 50-amp circuit (40 amp charging) could run #6 wire, but I chose to use "#4/3 with ground" to give some headroom, and to reduce the voltage drop. The run is just under 40 feet end-to-end. Given the cost to run wires, I'd pull the most you can afford. My Roadster can charge at 70 amps, but my EVSE can't supply that much, so we're doing just the 50 amp circuit now, with the knowledge that a simple breaker change and a new EVSE in the garage could enable the higher rate if I should need it in the future. I'm also adding a pair of dedicated 20 amp 120v GFI sockets by pulling a length of 12/3 as well. If nothing else, it would provide a convenient backup socket near the car in the event the EVSE goes bad.

I believe you are correct that most EVSEs don't use the neutral line, just the two hots and ground. Depending on what form your wires are (individual strands, or bundled as Romex), including the neutral line may not cost much if anything. Again, it could be cheaper to pull it now, than trying to add it later.

If you are getting it inspected then What the electrician sugguest you to strip the Romex outer sheath would be a code violation. Most romex do not include markings on the inner cables. The marking are usually only on the outer sheath. Without the marking you are not allow to use the cable at all. There are other reasons this is not allowed.
 
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If you are getting it inspected then What the electrician sugguest you to strip the Romex outer sheath would be a code violation. Most romex do not include markings on the inner cables. The marking are usually only on the outer sheath. Without the marking you are not allow to use the cable at all. There are other reasons this is not allowed.
Interesting. Yes, this is all being done to code with permits, inspections, etc, but that was his suggested approach. Perhaps a regional thing, or maybe he's pushing things a bit, but he seems to be very aware of what's allowed and not.

We're putting the plug right on the wall with access to the crawl space, so no conduit will be needed in the garage, but I wonder what he'll do at the panel? There will be a short pipe between the crawl space and the bottom of the panel to feed the wires in. I'll ask...
 
You cannot use #6 conductor for a 48 amp continuous load. The wire needs to be sized for 60 amps minimum, and NM #6 is only rated for 55 amps (60 degree column). You need to go up to #4 AWG. I assume you are planning to use copper, not aluminum. You can use #6, however, if you use THHN or similar 75 degree-rated insulation AND install it in conduit.
 
Also when you're thinking of installing bigger than 50A be certain to do the load calculations for the whole house. I made the mistake of doing the whole install before doing the load calc - and it's fine, but almost to the amp. If I had gone bigger than 50A charging I would be in the very real risk of popping the main breaker with both of the EVs charging.
 
Is it ok to use 8-2 instead of 8-3 NM and Mark the white with red tape. Just seems like a waste to get the 8-3. Im only going 16 Ft and a 40 amp breaker. Unfortunately I only have 100 amp service it my town home.
 
Where in the HPWC manual does it state that 2 AWG wire should be used? Only thing I see is 3 AWG in one place but the actual top connector plate only has 4 AWG for L1 & L2 and 8 AWG for neutral.
3 Ga is good enough for 100A, but 2 is better (lower voltage drop), and is also easier to find.

Is it ok to use 8-2 instead of 8-3 NM and Mark the white with red tape. Just seems like a waste to get the 8-3. Im only going 16 Ft and a 40 amp breaker. Unfortunately I only have 100 amp service it my town home.
Yes, you can remark with tape (black is fine). Consider using 6-2 - you'll have lower voltage drop and can charge at full 40A (50A breaker).. The cost difference between 8 and 6 is minimal (especially for 16 feet).
 
Had two hpwc's installed on a 100 amp breaker. They will communicate and balance so you can't get more than 90 amps total. Electrician spec'd 3ga but agreed to upgrade to 2ga for a trivial amount. They definitely had a time wrestling with it.

I'm happy to have the extra safety factor.

Local code requires a lockable disconnect within sight of the charger. If anyone wants I can provide a model number.
 
Had two hpwc's installed on a 100 amp breaker. They will communicate and balance so you can't get more than 90 amps total. Electrician spec'd 3ga but agreed to upgrade to 2ga for a trivial amount. They definitely had a time wrestling with it.

I'm happy to have the extra safety factor.

Local code requires a lockable disconnect within sight of the charger. If anyone wants I can provide a model number.

Hi, I would appreciate your input on a lockable disconnect for my HPWC install happening next week.