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Cheap DIY Paint Protection Film Project

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I'm in the middle of installing the pre-cut Suntek full hood/fender/bumper from ServPPF. I like the quality of the packing. material, and instructions. The front fender and headlights went on pretty well, save for some specs of dust I got under the film due to a hasty and less-than-ideal work space with 2 cars in the garage :( I'm on to the hood which I clay barred last night, and now needs a polish before putting down the film. I'll report back how the pre-cut emblem looks upon install. View attachment 325939 View attachment 325939 View attachment 325940 View attachment 325941 View attachment 325942
Hey that looks pretty good to me! :)
 
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Hey that looks pretty good to me! :)

Thanks!! Pearl White is not a forgiving color, however specs of dust aren't that visible, but lint is. I was able to remove the film on some sections and re-wet the adhesive surface and scrape off the specs with a sharp edge of the squeegee. This was all on the fender. The headlights came out perfect. As I mentioned in another thread, the pre-cut kit is very precise, and the so it is really up to the installer's preference and skill to get the film to sit right at the edge, and even wrap around the edge with about a 1mm lip. Note: You'll need to wait until the 2nd day for the lip to be dry enough to folder over and seal. Trying to do it on the first day is a moot point, and never use a finishing towel or microfiber towel to get the moisture away. Not even a heat gun, it will soften the film and make it look wavy. Just wait until the next day and seal the edge with a clean finger.

Tip of the day for DIY film install: Avoid wearing cotton clothes when installing PPF film. I noticed the lint color of my blue t-shirt under my film. A dry-fit like material does not shed lint.
 
I have done pre-cut PPF few times on my older cars years ago. Here my few opinion about pre-cut - 1. the alignment is difficult for a large piece. Often to do re-peel and re-align again when getting to other side of the edge. 2. edge line is at the top surface of panel edge vs. wrapped over the edge of panel. 3. I always doubt the actual length pre-cut length is matched with the contour of the panel when ridges of panel is raised and bent. I've found it extra stretch to the sheet is needed. After watching more pro of doing PPF by bulk film, I felt bulk film could be better way to do.. you can wrap excessive over the edge and make cut under the back side to hide your uneven cut. Therefore, I think the technique of cutting bulk film would be aimed the cut to be wrapped behind and make the fine cut later. I had done few pieces from excessive PPF and I was so much focus to where the edge of panel end and trying to get a cut like those pre-cut PPF. This ended up exposed of uneven line. For people who did front bumper of M3 by bulk film, do you think you can do better next time by sharing some of your thought. I still want to do bulk film on front bumper as seeing M3 has multiple places to hide the cut line... and keep the entire bumper in one sheet rather than two pieces as pre-cut version. In addition, I pretty sure the line of pre-cut sheet is obvious to the front surface.
 
Thanks!! Pearl White is not a forgiving color, however specs of dust aren't that visible, but lint is. I was able to remove the film on some sections and re-wet the adhesive surface and scrape off the specs with a sharp edge of the squeegee. This was all on the fender. The headlights came out perfect. As I mentioned in another thread, the pre-cut kit is very precise, and the so it is really up to the installer's preference and skill to get the film to sit right at the edge, and even wrap around the edge with about a 1mm lip. Note: You'll need to wait until the 2nd day for the lip to be dry enough to folder over and seal. Trying to do it on the first day is a moot point, and never use a finishing towel or microfiber towel to get the moisture away. Not even a heat gun, it will soften the film and make it look wavy. Just wait until the next day and seal the edge with a clean finger.

Tip of the day for DIY film install: Avoid wearing cotton clothes when installing PPF film. I noticed the lint color of my blue t-shirt under my film. A dry-fit like material does not shed lint.

You definitely want to use a heat gun for the edges when finishing up. Don't wait a extra day.
 
Thanks!! Pearl White is not a forgiving color, however specs of dust aren't that visible, but lint is. I was able to remove the film on some sections and re-wet the adhesive surface and scrape off the specs with a sharp edge of the squeegee. This was all on the fender. The headlights came out perfect. As I mentioned in another thread, the pre-cut kit is very precise, and the so it is really up to the installer's preference and skill to get the film to sit right at the edge, and even wrap around the edge with about a 1mm lip. Note: You'll need to wait until the 2nd day for the lip to be dry enough to folder over and seal. Trying to do it on the first day is a moot point, and never use a finishing towel or microfiber towel to get the moisture away. Not even a heat gun, it will soften the film and make it look wavy. Just wait until the next day and seal the edge with a clean finger.

Tip of the day for DIY film install: Avoid wearing cotton clothes when installing PPF film. I noticed the lint color of my blue t-shirt under my film. A dry-fit like material does not shed lint.

I bought the same kit and I will be installing in hopefully two weeks when I get my car. On the bumper PPF do the edge comes longer so we can wrap around the edges? How did you line up the bumper PFF? did you start by aligning it to the headlight edge? Thanks
 
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I bought the same kit and I will be installing in hopefully two weeks when I get my car. On the bumper PPF do the edge comes longer so we can wrap around the edges? How did you line up the bumper PFF? did you start by aligning it to the headlight edge? Thanks

Nevermind the instructions come with a diagram or where to tack down the material for best fitment. awesome
 
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Can you post the instructions?
 
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I bought the same kit and I will be installing in hopefully two weeks when I get my car. On the bumper PPF do the edge comes longer so we can wrap around the edges? How did you line up the bumper PFF? did you start by aligning it to the headlight edge? Thanks

Hi there, I finally finished installing the Suntek PPF kit this weekend, after spending various late nights from 11pm all the way until 5:30am ( the main bumper), but also 5 nights in Portland delayed my project timeline.

With regards to the kit, the quality of the Suntek kit from Servo PPF was top notch. All the cuts were precise and fit very well. Being the first time I’ve ever done an install like this, I can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship it requires to install it. Several times I had to pull up sections that got lint stuck to the adhesive side of the film, and you literally have to scrape the micro fibers off of the film. That is probably the biggest time delay, as I tried to remove as much of any lint or debris that showed.

My take away from the precut kit install, it’s not advised to attempt to wrap around the edges. If anything, you want it to be just slightly in from the edge, so that there is no overhanging material. You don’t want the film to get caught by s sponge or drying towel when caring for the surface, so it’s best if it the PPF seals just before the edge. You can stretch the material to a certain degree, but it’s not enough to wrap and have a good deal on the other side. There was a section of the full hood that had about 1mm of overhang, and it wouldn’t stay down around the corner. I used a fine blade with the flat side against the edge of the hood and gliding that against the film.

For the bumper, the one-man install was pretty hard, and I tried to follow the tack guide according to the numbers, but there is some leeway on when you align the parking sensors. The design of the template requires that you stretch the film so that it contours around the shapes and curves, such as the top of the bumper where it meets the hood. Along that curvature, I ended up with a lot of fingering along the edge, such that there were about 15 ripples forming at the edge all along the hood seam. The film had soap solution underneath so it wouldn’t tackand stay down. I knew it would be best to just leave it alone until dries further, and so the next day I was able to slowly and carefully squeegee it down, but without and slip solution to lubricate the squeegee. I did it dry as to prevent any water from getting in there again. I did it with a softer rubber squeegee so that I wouldn’t scratch the surface.
Also, when stretching the film, it is best to do so from center sections, and no by pulling on the film from the end/edge your are working on. I used my flat palm from the center of the film piece and pushed out towards the direction the film needed to be stretched, that way the film cutout wouldn’t lose its precise curvature, in this case the wheel-well. Also, cutouts like the parking sensors-you don’t want to stretch the film around there and make the circle look like like an oval, so push the material from a few inches away from the circle and slide the film cutout ‘towards’ the sensor.

Some shots of the finished project!
 

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Hi there, I finally finished installing the Suntek PPF kit this weekend, after spending various late nights from 11pm all the way until 5:30am ( the main bumper), but also 5 nights in Portland delayed my project timeline.

With regards to the kit, the quality of the Suntek kit from Servo PPF was top notch. All the cuts were precise and fit very well. Being the first time I’ve ever done an install like this, I can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship it requires to install it. Several times I had to pull up sections that got lint stuck to the adhesive side of the film, and you literally have to scrape the micro fibers off of the film. That is probably the biggest time delay, as I tried to remove as much of any lint or debris that showed.

My take away from the precut kit install, it’s not advised to attempt to wrap around the edges. If anything, you want it to be just slightly in from the edge, so that there is no overhanging material. You don’t want the film to get caught by s sponge or drying towel when caring for the surface, so it’s best if it the PPF seals just before the edge. You can stretch the material to a certain degree, but it’s not enough to wrap and have a good deal on the other side. There was a section of the full hood that had about 1mm of overhang, and it wouldn’t stay down around the corner. I used a fine blade with the flat side against the edge of the hood and gliding that against the film.

For the bumper, the one-man install was pretty hard, and I tried to follow the tack guide according to the numbers, but there is some leeway on when you align the parking sensors. The design of the template requires that you stretch the film so that it contours around the shapes and curves, such as the top of the bumper where it meets the hood. Along that curvature, I ended up with a lot of fingering along the edge, such that there were about 15 ripples forming at the edge all along the hood seam. The film had soap solution underneath so it wouldn’t tackand stay down. I knew it would be best to just leave it alone until dries further, and so the next day I was able to slowly and carefully squeegee it down, but without and slip solution to lubricate the squeegee. I did it dry as to prevent any water from getting in there again. I did it with a softer rubber squeegee so that I wouldn’t scratch the surface.
Also, when stretching the film, it is best to do so from center sections, and no by pulling on the film from the end/edge your are working on. I used my flat palm from the center of the film piece and pushed out towards the direction the film needed to be stretched, that way the film cutout wouldn’t lose its precise curvature, in this case the wheel-well. Also, cutouts like the parking sensors-you don’t want to stretch the film around there and make the circle look like like an oval, so push the material from a few inches away from the circle and slide the film cutout ‘towards’ the sensor.

Some shots of the finished project!
Looks really good! Well done! I'm going the coward's route and only doing headlights, fog lights, A-pillars, doors, rockers, rear luggage area, and center console myself. The front bumper looks challenging, so I'm having a pro do my front end (bumper, hood, fenders, mirrors). It helps that he's also throwing in ceramic coating as part of the package :)
 
I am ready to install the Suntek kit that I got from Servo PPF and the film has some wrinkles. I am wondering if this is normal and when I install the film it will not show. Please let me know ASAP:View attachment 333654 View attachment 333655 View attachment 333656 [] []

You should be fine, I had some pieces that had that, but its typically because of the paper thats creased/folded, not the PPF film. The film you can fold on itself and it won't leave a crease ( just make sure you don't fold the adhesive side onto the adhesive side accidentally!)

Once you peel peel off the film, the paper will be creased and the film is ok.