Check the paper backing side before you remove the film; you should see the crease on the back of the paper.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Check the paper backing side before you remove the film; you should see the crease on the back of the paper.
CrazyCoconut
Member
Hi all, I just attempted some PPF myself last night. I did the fog lights, head lights, and A-pillars. Predictably, they are full of bubbles. I understand the smaller bubbles will disappear over time as the trapped moisture evaporate. I also read that for stubborn bubbles, one could use a small hypodermic needle (i.e. insulin needle) to extract the air/moisture from the bubble so you can flatten it. My question is: how long should I wait for the bubbles to disappear before attempting to use a needle on them?
Fusion
Member
CrazyCoconut
Member
So should I wait a week before popping any bubbles? Or is it safe to do so after a certain amount of time? Sorry for the novice questions!
CrazyCoconut
Member
I used RPM Tesla's instructions for headlight film install, which uses tack solution only (though he calls it "slip solution" in the video). In hindsight, I think that where I went wrong... It's not slippery enough to squeegee bubbles out. Tack solution might be OK for a pro, but a newbie likely needs more squeegeeing. Looking at it today, I can clearly see the squeegee path. Think I've ruined the film?
I feel pretty discouraged at this point. Thinking about just have my installer do everything for me instead
Fusion
Member
What kind of squeegee did you use. Also did you spray liberal amounts on both sides when applying it? You need to make sure when you are doing a pass that you use a good amount of pressure to take out as much water in one pass. Looks like you didn't apply enough pressure from seeing so much large water bubbles. If you need to go over the same area, just make sure you spray more solution so your squeegee does not pull and cause stretching.
The squeegee path could just be the dried up solution. Try cleaning it with soapy water and see if it goes away. You could also try low heat with a blow dryer in those areas or leave the car in the sun for a few hours, since this is self healing it may fix itself.
You will want to keep the car in the sun to have those spots work themselves out. I think you should be fine. Looks gross now but after a few days in the sun, it should look better.
I would wait a few weeks and see if those go away. If not after a few weeks I would apply a little solution and massage the area and wait a few more days, if not then last resort would be to pop it.
BTW... i see a few fingers on the edges of your install. If you have a heat gun or blow dryer, warm those areas and use your fingers to apply some force straight down to tack it otherwise dirt might get trapped under those areas. You do want to finish with either a blow dryer or heat gun at the edges with either gloves or a lint free towel wiping as you heat. Youtube installers won't show you the whole process.
The squeegee path could just be the dried up solution. Try cleaning it with soapy water and see if it goes away. You could also try low heat with a blow dryer in those areas or leave the car in the sun for a few hours, since this is self healing it may fix itself.
You will want to keep the car in the sun to have those spots work themselves out. I think you should be fine. Looks gross now but after a few days in the sun, it should look better.
I would wait a few weeks and see if those go away. If not after a few weeks I would apply a little solution and massage the area and wait a few more days, if not then last resort would be to pop it.
BTW... i see a few fingers on the edges of your install. If you have a heat gun or blow dryer, warm those areas and use your fingers to apply some force straight down to tack it otherwise dirt might get trapped under those areas. You do want to finish with either a blow dryer or heat gun at the edges with either gloves or a lint free towel wiping as you heat. Youtube installers won't show you the whole process.
Last edited:
CrazyCoconut
Member
I'm using the squeegee that came with Invisible Mask's installation kit. I did spray liberal amounts on both sides. However, I used only tack solution (as shown in RPM Tesla's installation instructions). I'm thinking I should have used slip solution instead, to allow for more lubrication and easier squeegeeing. Also I think you are right in that I didn't apply enough pressure..
I can feel them, so I don't think they are just dried up solution. I might try the blow dryer route. I also have a heat gun, but maybe that's too much heat?
I need to hand my car off to my installer in 2 weeks, since he's doing the front end PPF install and ceramic coating for me. So I need to resolve this before then. I did purchase the smallest insulin needle and syringe I can find (31 gauge). I might try to remove some of the large bubbles.
Thanks for the tips Fusion! That's very helpful.
CrazyCoconut
Member
Welp. Tried hair dryer on the squeegee path and it didn't go away. So I think the film is well and truly ruined
I did only alcohol and no baby soap. Every time I use baby soap I failWelp. Tried hair dryer on the squeegee path and it didn't go away. So I think the film is well and truly ruined
Welp. Tried hair dryer on the squeegee path and it didn't go away. So I think the film is well and truly ruined
Just bought off invisible shield this past weekend. How long did it take for them to ship?
CrazyCoconut
Member
HI CrazyCoconut, I think it is best to just buy the headlight pieces again, and start over. From your pics, it definitely looks like you tried too forcefully without water to squeegee out the bubbles and have ended up marring the film. I did not have to use any heat at all for the install of the headlight.
I only used the alcohol solution to tack the initial front bottom corner, and the rest was with the baby shampoo slip solution. Make sure to liberally apply the soap solution underneath, because it will help to wash away dust and lint. The squeegee will remove all of the solution.
After tacking the front corner, the rest of the job is stretching from the center of the film using your flat palm so that the top rear corner aligns, and then you want to squeegee down that corner. From there, you want to squeegee water and bubbles away FROM the center of the headlight outwards towards the edge. If you don't start from the center moving outward to the edge, then the chance of you getting bubbles trapped increases significantly. Make sure to keep spraying with the slip solution to ensure a workable surface.
Have you referenced the Suntek PPF install video on Youtube? I watched this one in addition to the RPMTesla headlight install video and it helped alot.
BTW, CrazyCoconut, if you do plan on re-buying the film, you can try pulling up the existing headlight film at a 45 degree angle to remove it, and if you do it carefully you can actually re-use it by cleaning the adhesive side with soap solution again. I recommend practicing again with the damaged film to get comfortable with how the entire process works. You can also buy strips and test on flatter surfaces. Even though it was the first time for me installing the PPF film, I have prior experience working with vinyl and RC hobby decals etc.
But also you are right about the RPMTesla video: Mark refers to his alcohol solution as a slip solution, and it is definitely not.
But also you are right about the RPMTesla video: Mark refers to his alcohol solution as a slip solution, and it is definitely not.
CrazyCoconut
Member
Thanks for the tips! I already removed (and threw away) the marred film and re-ordered new ones. I wish I had thought of reusing it before I threw it away. Oh well. I think my mistake was using ONLY tack solution for the headlight install. I should have tacked one end, then used slip solution for the rest. Tack solution alone caused too much resistance when trying to squeegee bubbles from under the film. Lesson learned. I used slip solution only for the rear luggage area piece and that went a lot better.
Hi fusion, yoir threas on ppf diy is very inspiring. Do you have enough surplus film left ? I m in the process of ordering, can you let me know the site you used, also can you share the approximate length you used. When you were considering options, did you also check precut skotchgard, they seem to be under $250 on ebay for bonnet, fenders, bumpers. I presume, the xpel film would cost multiple folds of this even when purchased in bulk.
I did both my headlights with slip solution only. i started from the middle and worked out doing the bottom first. You can flip up the edges and use tack if you need to. The 2nd headlight took less than 5 minutes.
CrazyCoconut
Member
I noticed a few small pieces of lint under a couple of my pieces as well (No tucked edges), mostly near edges. I'm wondering the same thing. Can I lift up a corner, scrape off the lint, then put the corner back down? If so, can I just lift it, or do I need to pre-heat the corner I'm lifting first?
I took off PPF before on a failed attempt, the wrap has to be warm. I would use a hair dryer before lifting.
Pentium2004
Former Vendor
I can supply you with film if you ever need it again. I could also give some pointers for a succesful install.
Similar threads
- Marketplace listing
