Pentium2004
Former Vendor
How long has the film been on? I wouldn't suggest lifting it and trying to reuse unless it's within a couple hours of install.
CrazyCoconut
Member
Fusion
Member
Always use only slip solution when starting and then when you have the center squeegeed, use the tack solution for just the edges.
Use even pressure and go very very slow. While lifting the film slowly, spray slip solution at the same time under it. You will most likely have a line where you stop when you lift it. So the question is if you prefer to have a slight line or lint. Also if it's been on for 3 days, I would probably advise against it. You will probably over stretch the film since it's already tacked on.
Use even pressure and go very very slow. While lifting the film slowly, spray slip solution at the same time under it. You will most likely have a line where you stop when you lift it. So the question is if you prefer to have a slight line or lint. Also if it's been on for 3 days, I would probably advise against it. You will probably over stretch the film since it's already tacked on.
Fusion
Member
CrazyCoconut
Member
It's not visible from a few feet away... you can only see it from inches away. You are right, I should probably just leave it.
Pentium2004
Former Vendor
Pentium2004
Former Vendor
Definitely give it a few weeks. All my bubbles eventually went away, even some pretty big and nasty ones.
The answer is yes, you can do it, and it's not that difficult, just keep spraying water/alcohol as you go. But what happen is that you have to stretch the film in order to lift it post installation. Once you put the film back, you'll be able to see a bit of the "orange peel" effect on the film. It looks like stretch marks. It's not normally visible, but when the film reflects light you'll see the effect. I'll try to post a pic when I get a chance. It's gonna be a trade off. Unless the dirt is very visible, it might not be worth it.
The following seems to the ones I captured from pre-prep for coating. Does all of this apply for PPF installation assuming I want paint correction and polished finish.
1. Wash the car.
2. Use an contaminate remover such as IronX by CarPro.
3. Clay bar the whole car to get ride of contaminants.
4. Polish using a random orbital polisher and M205 with a orange pad.
5. Use an IPA such as Eraser by CarPro.
6. Now apply PPF?
7. Apply polish to rest of the car?
Will it be okay to do IPA eraser and then do PPF, then the polishing effect may have been removed. If I dont do that, polish may prevent adhesion of the PPF. Bit confused on this. Suggestions pls.
1. Wash the car.
2. Use an contaminate remover such as IronX by CarPro.
3. Clay bar the whole car to get ride of contaminants.
4. Polish using a random orbital polisher and M205 with a orange pad.
5. Use an IPA such as Eraser by CarPro.
6. Now apply PPF?
7. Apply polish to rest of the car?
Will it be okay to do IPA eraser and then do PPF, then the polishing effect may have been removed. If I dont do that, polish may prevent adhesion of the PPF. Bit confused on this. Suggestions pls.
Can someone tell me if I ended up with fake film, or this is a lot harder than it looks on Youtube. I recently purchased what was described as Suntek Ultra PPF on Ebay from a private seller with 45 feet of a 50 foot roll, so not a known seller. It came in a Suntek box with no documentation. I cut off a 30' by 4 foot piece to try on a door. the material does not slide at all when I place on slip solution. It doesn't stretch or have any flexibiliity at all, so even on a front door I can't align it and get it to lay flat.
I cut off a 1 inch by 2 inch square and was able to remove the sticky layer from the shiny layer. The shiny layer does not stretch at all. The sticky layer will stretch, but is no longer clear once stretched.
It doesn't stretch like the pictures of someone sticking a screwdriver through it when I try, and instead it just rips. It would be impossible to wrap anything with this material unless it was perfectly flat.
I just want to be sure before I accuse someone of being dishonest.
Any insight would be appreciated.
I cut off a 1 inch by 2 inch square and was able to remove the sticky layer from the shiny layer. The shiny layer does not stretch at all. The sticky layer will stretch, but is no longer clear once stretched.
It doesn't stretch like the pictures of someone sticking a screwdriver through it when I try, and instead it just rips. It would be impossible to wrap anything with this material unless it was perfectly flat.
I just want to be sure before I accuse someone of being dishonest.
Any insight would be appreciated.
SSCustoms
Local Vendor - NorCal
CrazyCoconut
Member
SSCustoms
Local Vendor - NorCal
In theory yes, however leaving it to permeate naturally is there safest and easiest way!
Fusion
Member
You might need to add more soap to your water. Also you are supposed to spray the film and the panels that you will be installing to.
Just did the front bumper and what a pita. It was getting late in the night so I started using a hair dryer on hot to get the fingers to set. Should've done this earlier since it helped big time. Other than that, I woudw recommend tacking down the hole areas (tow hook and sensors). While working on those, make sure to keep spraying the other areas with your slip solution. Mine isn't perfect but it'll protect against chips so I'm okay with it.
Hi Lanzer, can you suggest if this order of steps is correct before starting PPF
1. Wash the car.
2. Use an contaminate remover such as IronX by CarPro.
3. Clay bar the whole car to get ride of contaminants.
4. Polish using a random orbital polisher and M205 with a orange pad.
5. Use an IPA such as Eraser by CarPro.
6. Now apply PPF?
Basic question is should we polish it and erase it before PPF ?
Inspired by this thread I ordered the full front from ServPPF, in Suntek Ultra. It came in this week and I started working. Overall it was slow to start learning how to squeegee and then seal the curved edges, but quickly got the hang of it. Hood and fenders took time but I thought they came out great! Not very many bubbles at all. Have not started the hardest section which is the front bumper. Wish me luck this weekend.
The quality of the kit was excellent and the cut-outs were pretty spot on. I'll be ordering the full doors as well as I'm now addicted to trying to cover the entire car for less than half what professionals would charge. Certainly doable as a DIY but requires a LOT of patience.
The quality of the kit was excellent and the cut-outs were pretty spot on. I'll be ordering the full doors as well as I'm now addicted to trying to cover the entire car for less than half what professionals would charge. Certainly doable as a DIY but requires a LOT of patience.
Frieda’s Boss
Model 3 AWD Silver + Model Y AWD Red
Success: Headlight PPF from RPM
Certainly the video makes it look way too easy to ‘slap’ on, but like with other posters, it takes a bit of effort and attention. Here are some keys I noticed:
- After you anchor the front corner, follow the ridge line of the headlight to start squeegeeing, this seems to reduce the fingering
- Keep firm pressure on the squeegee at about 45deg angle and pulling instead of pushing the PPF
- If you get a large bubble or finger in an area that’s been tacked down, instead of trying to force the bubble through, it’s safer to lift the film and re-tack that area to avoid the ‘chatter marks’ from the sqeegee stressing the film when forcing a bubble to the edge a long distance
Failure (massive!): Xpel Pre-Cut Front Bumper
I mistakenly thought that a ‘pre-cut’ PPF would be like color-by-numbers for slapping it on. I could not have been any wrong-er-er. The pros who do this for a living have a honed skill and kudos to DIYers like Lanzer who have earned that experience first-hand! First off, it takes TIME & PATIENCE. Just a Front Bumper could be a 4-5hr job by a novice. And getting it aligned and defect free is a tall...TALL...task.
I’m not a perfectionist, but I genuinely could not get all the edges, sensor holes, & folds/tucks to a reasonable enough quality where I wouldn’t just be griping about it every time I saw it.
In the end, I took it all off and scheduled an appointment at a local detailer. Life lesson for me!
TLDR: Get a pro to put on your PPF if you don’t want to take this on as a longterm project/hobby!
Certainly the video makes it look way too easy to ‘slap’ on, but like with other posters, it takes a bit of effort and attention. Here are some keys I noticed:
- After you anchor the front corner, follow the ridge line of the headlight to start squeegeeing, this seems to reduce the fingering
- Keep firm pressure on the squeegee at about 45deg angle and pulling instead of pushing the PPF
- If you get a large bubble or finger in an area that’s been tacked down, instead of trying to force the bubble through, it’s safer to lift the film and re-tack that area to avoid the ‘chatter marks’ from the sqeegee stressing the film when forcing a bubble to the edge a long distance
Failure (massive!): Xpel Pre-Cut Front Bumper
I mistakenly thought that a ‘pre-cut’ PPF would be like color-by-numbers for slapping it on. I could not have been any wrong-er-er. The pros who do this for a living have a honed skill and kudos to DIYers like Lanzer who have earned that experience first-hand! First off, it takes TIME & PATIENCE. Just a Front Bumper could be a 4-5hr job by a novice. And getting it aligned and defect free is a tall...TALL...task.
I’m not a perfectionist, but I genuinely could not get all the edges, sensor holes, & folds/tucks to a reasonable enough quality where I wouldn’t just be griping about it every time I saw it.
In the end, I took it all off and scheduled an appointment at a local detailer. Life lesson for me!
TLDR: Get a pro to put on your PPF if you don’t want to take this on as a longterm project/hobby!
