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Cheap shudder hack (not a fix)

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EbS-P

Member
Apr 21, 2022
372
186
NC
I want to share what I have done to minimize my acceleration shudder and hopefully extend the lives of my half shafts. This is not a fix.

I have a late 2016 MX P100d. When I acquired it with 24k miles the inner rear tires were badly worn and would not pass inspection. And in normal ride height under vigorous acceleration the axles would shudder. On low with extremely acceleration they would shudder.

What I did was get a 4 wheel alignment (and new tires) alignment done at normal ride height. I then installed the cheapest adjustable front lowering links I could with about a 5mm longer than standard link. This results in the front of the car riding lower at all ride height settings by about 3/4”. It’s permanent cheetah stance! But it’s hardly noticeable. If you look close you can tell.

Set your suspension to always normal heigh. Now you have the best camber angle rear camber you can get to preserve your inner tires tread while saving wear and tear on your axels.

The headlights needs readjusted to Bering the beams up a bit.

The N2itive kit is a better fix but probably 50-75 times the cost and a more or less permanent solution. But my hack is not permanent. In less than 8 minutes I can easily reinstall the original links.

It’s stupid that there is not a solution yet and it speaks to the real issue high drive line angle.

It may change the cent of gravity by some amount but I argue more consequential would be my body weight and what my tire pressure is. I don’t drive it hard. Babies in rear facing seats don’t have forehead rests. Take it for what it is a cheap compromise to extend rear tread, and half shaft life.
 
I want to share what I have done to minimize my acceleration shudder and hopefully extend the lives of my half shafts. This is not a fix.

I have a late 2016 MX P100d. When I acquired it with 24k miles the inner rear tires were badly worn and would not pass inspection. And in normal ride height under vigorous acceleration the axles would shudder. On low with extremely acceleration they would shudder.

What I did was get a 4 wheel alignment (and new tires) alignment done at normal ride height. I then installed the cheapest adjustable front lowering links I could with about a 5mm longer than standard link. This results in the front of the car riding lower at all ride height settings by about 3/4”. It’s permanent cheetah stance! But it’s hardly noticeable. If you look close you can tell.

Set your suspension to always normal heigh. Now you have the best camber angle rear camber you can get to preserve your inner tires tread while saving wear and tear on your axels.

The headlights needs readjusted to Bering the beams up a bit.

The N2itive kit is a better fix but probably 50-75 times the cost and a more or less permanent solution. But my hack is not permanent. In less than 8 minutes I can easily reinstall the original links.

It’s stupid that there is not a solution yet and it speaks to the real issue high drive line angle.

It may change the cent of gravity by some amount but I argue more consequential would be my body weight and what my tire pressure is. I don’t drive it hard. Babies in rear facing seats don’t have forehead rests. Take it for what it is a cheap compromise to extend rear tread, and half shaft life.

Correct me if I am misunderstanding, but it looks like all you've done is lowered your car. While this helps with shudder it will accelerate your tire wear unless you have the ability to adjust your toe (most important IMO) and camber.
 
Correct me if I am misunderstanding, but it looks like all you've done is lowered your car. While this helps with shudder it will accelerate your tire wear unless you have the ability to adjust your toe (most important IMO) and camber.
It only lowers the front. A tad more camber up there is fine with me. Keeps the rear at stock settings.
u have a link to the ones u installed?
I just went eBay and searched for the cheapest ones. 75$ a pair I think. They were not pretty but worked.
 
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Thanks for the clarification. Do you have a recent alignment readout? Thanks!
No. Tires were so bad when I got it February I took it in right away and got them replaced and an alignment. I knew nothing both about alignment and thought the shudder was traction control. The alignment shop is right next to a the only Tesla body shop in the area so a feel a bit more confident. 6 k miles now and I have lots of tread so I’m not in the 10k or less club. I’m
 
No. Tires were so bad when I got it February I took it in right away and got them replaced and an alignment. I knew nothing both about alignment and thought the shudder was traction control. The alignment shop is right next to a the only Tesla body shop in the area so a feel a bit more confident. 6 k miles now and I have lots of tread so I’m not in the 10k or less club. I’m

Did you sign the car before or after you lowered the front?

Very likely you don't see much wear at 5k on the inside tire unless you are physically removing the wheel and measuring.
 
Did you sign the car before or after you lowered the front?

Very likely you don't see much wear at 5k on the inside tire unless you are physically removing the wheel and measuring.
Alignment was before lowering. It’s not dropped by much so the front has camber as if aligned at normal setting and driven at low. So that add a bit of negative to the front (am I correct about that). I’ll get my calipers and take a measurement Soon.
 
Alignment was before lowering. It’s not dropped by much so the front has camber as if aligned at normal setting and driven at low. So that add a bit of negative to the front (am I correct about that). I’ll get my calipers and take a measurement Soon.

You're gonna want to check the alignment, lowering is going to change all of your front alignment values.
 
You're gonna want to check the alignment, lowering is going to change all of your front alignment values.
Have you seen values for different ride heights? Are we talking more than 2 degrees per ride height setting? It’s due for an inspection next month I’ll take it in and have them check it and report back.
 
Have you seen values for different ride heights? Are we talking more than 2 degrees per ride height setting? It’s due for an inspection next month I’ll take it in and have them check it and report back.

You can only "set" an alignment for one ride height (meaning any combination of front/rear/etc). So what people typically do is decide if they want to align their car for low or normal. Low helps with shudder. Normal helps with tire wear. I don't think anybody does what you have, so you might be able to get best of both worlds. But, you'll need to do an alignment. Not a ton of adjustment but have it done as close to "ideal" as possible. Then remember, what "mode" you have it aligned in is what you need to drive in.
 
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The one I got are no longer available. And you only need the fronts. But something like this.
Thank you so the lowering links fix the tire wear and help the cv shaft angle at the same time ?
 
Thank you so the lowering links fix the tire wear and help the cv shaft angle at the same time ?
It’s not a fix. It lets you lower the front (to reduce driveshaft angle) and keep the rear at normal ride height (keeping the camber closer to zero). In theory it should help some. The correct fix is rear camber arms and lowering links. It’s a better but more expensive option. For less than 200$ and 15 minutes I think you can mostly improve driveshaft life. Tires will wear. I’m hoping for 20k on my set. I have 7.5k. I don’t drive crazy. And will get easily another 10k.

Looks like N2itive (spelling???). Price have dropped. From a year ago. More appealing
 
It’s not a fix. It lets you lower the front (to reduce driveshaft angle) and keep the rear at normal ride height (keeping the camber closer to zero). In theory it should help some. The correct fix is rear camber arms and lowering links. It’s a better but more expensive option. For less than 200$ and 15 minutes I think you can mostly improve driveshaft life. Tires will wear. I’m hoping for 20k on my set. I have 7.5k. I don’t drive crazy. And will get easily another 10k.

Looks like N2itive (spelling???). Price have dropped. From a year ago. More appealing
Thank you - so driveshaft wear first - install lowering links have car aligned at the low setting - time and money later install rear camber arms - ?
 
Thank you - so driveshaft wear first - install lowering links have car aligned at the low setting - time and money later install rear camber arms - ?
Links. Then set to auto lower to never. Then align at normal ride height. Whole point it so keep the rear suspension as high as you can so the camber is as close to zero as you can get while lowering the front to reduce drive shaft angle. Putting car in low ride height increases the the camber and accelerates rear inner tire wear.
 
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Ok - great - I ordered links. Will set auto low to never and set to normal ride height ( which will be technically low in the front but more correct for cambar in rear - then I’ll do rear cambar bars - how has your rear tire wear been since you made changes ?