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Choosing NEW vs. CPO HELP!

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get one made after March of 2018

This often splits opinion.

Having just had driven a 2017 model X 100D for 2 weeks while my Raven MS LR was in the shop, I can say the MCU2 is way sharper and works. The browser on the loaner was dead, and maps really sluggish in comparison.

The loaner X had 6 seats which looks fantastic if you need them, but doesn't leave any trunk, so not great for luggage based on 6 passengers. Also the X had 22's fitted. What a noise! Getting back in the S was heaven.

However, the X is really practical inside.

The efficiency difference really struck me too. On the same run 480wh/mile in X compared with 350 in the S.
 
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Because I'm bored and was already mapping out my out my trip this afternoon. 115% reference speed, max 85mph. There isn't much range difference between the 70 and 75 but you can see that Tesla has really throttled the charging speed on the 70D. Hopefully this gives you an idea of how a roadtrip in all of these would work, obviously 350 miles compared to the 250 you make every year so you'd only make the first stop which is 236 miles total trip. 44 minutes in my car, 16 in a 90D and 7 minutes in an older 100D; you get the idea. Are the features and 10 minutes faster charging worth the price difference in all these 90-P100D cars?


Edit: another thing to note is the price to charge, since most in states you're charged by the minute, the longer charge times equate to a more expensive charge even though 4 of 6 cars get about the same efficiency and take on the same kwh

Trip Compare.jpg
 
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With recent announcements I think buying a pre-March 2018 makes _more_ sense (for people in the know). Just add $2500 (-FM) to the price and you will get the MCU2 sometime this year. You will find that 2017 and _especially_ late 2016 are way cheaper then March 2018 and now offer 97% of what later car does.

As a side note: I like the NextGen (i.e V2) seats a little better than the newer seats (V3/4). They are a little snugger and to me the headrest works better (sticks out less).
 
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With recent announcements I think buying a pre-March 2018 makes _more_ sense (for people in the know). Just add $2500 (-FM) to the price and you will get the MCU2 sometime this year. You will find that 2017 and _especially_ late 2016 are way cheaper then March 2018 and now offer 97% of what later car does.

As a side note: I like the NextGen (i.e V2) seats a little better than the newer seats (V3/4). They are a little snugger and to me the headrest works better (sticks out less).

Tesla's statement was a little unclear if I upgrade to MCU2 will I have to pay for premium connect or grandfathered in like I am now. Something tells me they're going to yank it for anyone wanting MCU2 and it'll be in the paperwork you sign at time of service. If not so many decisions if it's actually worth it, maybe so with my super long charge times. I could binge a whole show on netflix during a long road trip. :oops:
 
I'd get Used. You still get the same 4yr 50K warranty but since it's on a used car with more mileage you're likely to have some of the more expensive things replaced that die between the 50-100K mark. I Bought mine with 43K and I was using the warranty all the way up to 93K earlier this year. You're losing free supercharging when buying used unless you get a 100D but you'd have to supercharge 160K miles to make up $10,000 when I did the math last, only you can decide what that one is worth.

doing a quick search on https://ev-cpo.com/hunter/ shows a few of these

2016 P100D loaded for $68.5K 29K miles AP1
2016 Model S | Tesla

2016 P100D loaded for $68.6K 41K miles AP2
2016 Model S | Tesla

2017 100D loaded for $71.3K 41K miles FSD
2017 Model S | Tesla

Then you get into the deals but no free supercharging

2016 old style 90D Loaded $47.5K 39K miles AP1
2016 Model S | Tesla

2016 New style 90D Loaded $52.4K 58K miles AP1. This one is covered bumper to bumper until 108K miles
2016 Model S | Tesla

So you can see you're saving 20K or so getting a used 100D but if you can sacrifice a little more range you can get a used 90D for about half of what a new car costs. I've put just over 50K on my car in the last 2 years and AP1 does everything I want it to do.

I look at those and I think the p100D AP2 for $68.6 is the best pick IMO. That speed is just unreal and you can upgrade the MCU and have a pretty up to date car.
 
I look at those and I think the p100D AP2 for $68.6 is the best pick IMO. That speed is just unreal and you can upgrade the MCU and have a pretty up to date car.
I think someone agreed with you with their wallet because it appears to have sold.

Comparing even that deal (that's no longer available) to the 2016 P90D though you're talking ~$20k difference. Keep in mind that doesn't include tax which adds a another "hidden" couple of grand for most buyers making it a full ~$22k difference. Do you really feel that a tenth or so from 0-60, a few miles of added range and the AP2 hardware really justifies that price premium. For me personally it does not. That's nearly a 50% increase in price from one of the "lesser" cars to get those minimal differences which are mostly paper differences as most couldn't even tell the difference in them in real life.
 
That's nearly a 50% increase in price from one of the "lesser" cars to get those minimal differences which are mostly paper differences as most couldn't even tell the difference in them in real life.

Yes.

And the OP said iirc that they like to keep their cars.... so being kind to them really helps, and that includes being kind to transmission (or rather drive) components, battery, electronics.... all of which contrary to some so called wisdom suffer increased detereoration the harder you push them.

Of course it's a personal thing, but money still has quite a high value for me and $20k+ just to be tempted to thrash my car harder is not a good idea in my mind.
 
Yes.

And the OP said iirc that they like to keep their cars.... so being kind to them really helps, and that includes being kind to transmission (or rather drive) components, battery, electronics.... all of which contrary to some so called wisdom suffer increased detereoration the harder you push them.

Of course it's a personal thing, but money still has quite a high value for me and $20k+ just to be tempted to thrash my car harder is not a good idea in my mind.

I was trying to compare apples to apples with the "P" versions in that post to help avoid confusion.

I also agree that one could save even more money on a non "P" car and gain added range as well. This is especially true as the non "P" versions of cars continue getting faster and faster narrowing the performance gap between the two options.

The most recent car we bought was a 90D because I wanted the added range over the P90D for that car being as it is our official road trip car. My car is the P85D and, while I love it, I can easily see myself replacing it with a used Long Range Model S in a few years. IMO that is THE value leader right now with a range of about 400 miles, 0-60 time rated at 3.7 seconds (owners are reporting real-world times closer to that of my P85D at 3.2ish) and it's $20k less expensive than the Performance version.

Compare the stats of the new non-performance Model S to my P85D that was nearly $150k just five short years ago and you can start to see why I'm super interested in owning one of those in about 4 years (give or take) when I can find a clean used one.

But yes, I agree that not paying a premium for AP2, MCU2 or Performance will likely yield the best deals in terms of bang-for-your-buck.
 
Yep exactly where I'm at right now with 98K on the clock. I make a lot of trips from Houston to Dallas area and down to the border and each trip takes 2 stops for the 70D for a total of 1:30 in charging since the whole battery/charge gate throttling. If I had a 90D it would still be two stops but 40 minutes of charging so I'm constantly fighting the whole is it worth a $10K battery upgrade to cut charging in half is that 45 minutes to an hour every 2 weeks worth it?

The other problem is when I visit the state parks which we've got 6-10 trips planned this year, some of the Texas parks are at the very edge of range so I'll nearly fill up at the last supercharger and drive at or under the speed limit to get there with enough range to make it back and hope to find a L2 charger on the way that actually works and that's hours of our time. I thought of a way around that is to book air bnb instead of hotel and charge at the house overnight, even L1 over two nights is 80-100 miles and I built a 50 or maybe it was 75ft extension to charge from a dryer outlet and bump it down to 15-20amp which will give us pretty much a full charge. If this doesn't work then again, is it worth it to spend 10K+ on the upgrade or just take the ICE?

It seems the OP is being honest and they can get away with a 70 and especially a 90. I'm willing to take the risk that a 70 or 90 will last 3-5 years and by then 3rd party battery swaps will common place.
Many of the hotels I've stayed at have Tesla L2 destination chargers.
 
With recent announcements I think buying a pre-March 2018 makes _more_ sense (for people in the know). Just add $2500 (-FM) to the price and you will get the MCU2 sometime this year. You will find that 2017 and _especially_ late 2016 are way cheaper then March 2018 and now offer 97% of what later car does.

As a side note: I like the NextGen (i.e V2) seats a little better than the newer seats (V3/4). They are a little snugger and to me the headrest works better (sticks out less).

I wonder how long the waitlist is for this upgrade......
I actually put a deposit down for a similar spec car as yours, but unfortunately not AP2.......
 
One thing that is easily overlooked is the battery/powertrain warranty. A new car gives you the full 8 year, 150k mile warranty. The used cars give you the remainder of the original warranty, which was usually 8 year, unlimited mile from original purchase date. On a 2016, you're halfway through the duration of the battery/powertrain warranty...
 
Oh I didn't realize you were going to be at all the state parks. So, exactly which ones don't have destination chargers within oh say 30 miles or so?

Guadalupe, Caddo, Garner, Lost maples, Big Bend (or any of the ones in the big bend region) Enchanted rock, Big Springs, all of the Devils, Kickapoo, Seminole, Balmorhea, Falcon, Caprock canyon, and I'm sure more.

And even some of the locations you could say have a destination charger are useless because they're at expensive ass hotels or B&Bs that are 2-4x more expensive than other local hotels which completely defeats the purpose of the trip and taking the Tesla in the first place.
 
Guadalupe, Caddo, Garner, Lost maples, Big Bend (or any of the ones in the big bend region) Enchanted rock, Big Springs, all of the Devils, Kickapoo, Seminole, Balmorhea, Falcon, Caprock canyon, and I'm sure more.

And even some of the locations you could say have a destination charger are useless because they're at expensive ass hotels or B&Bs that are 2-4x more expensive than other local hotels which completely defeats the purpose of the trip and taking the Tesla in the first place.
Ok you could have a point if you generally stay in budget motels. I don't. I've never paid more to stay at a property with a destination charger. Actually last trip I took in an ICE car the motel we stayed at had Tesla destination charger in the parking lot.
Oh another option might be camping. Lots of sites have RV charging.