Choosing the Right Enkei PF01's for a M3P

[Mash]

Something to think about...
If the wheel relied on the hub to carry most of its forces, you'd think manufacturers would be a little more generous with the amount of lip they give you on the hub heh?

I am pro hub-centric ring myself, but not because I believe that's the part doing all the heavy lifting (literally). Hub centric simply gives me an extra peace of mind and it's easier to align wheels (especially on European cars that uses lug studs instead of bolts).

Making lip longer does absolutely nothing - it won't shift anyway and it won't be any stronger since the whole stress is at that point.

 

[Clivew]

it's the lip that stops the wheel from overstretching the lug.

Overstretching the lug? What on earth are you talking about. It’s plainly obvious (again) that you are posting about subjects that you don’t fully understand, in a style where you try to make out you are an authority on the subject.

The hub lip isn’t stopping ‘overstretching’ of the lug. That would be a ‘tensile’ load. If the hub was supporting the weight of the wheel (ie if the lug nuts were loose), it would be reducing the ‘shear’ load on the stud. These are totally different, and this one thing shows you don’t understand what you are talking about.

You obviously have no idea how much load is required to break a high tensile M14 stud, let alone 5 of them. It’s way, way, way more than the loads a tyre can produce, regardless of the weight of the Tesla or the torque it produces.

If you knew the size of the 4 bolts that hold a CFM56-7 turbofan engine to a 737’s pylon, which take all the engine weight and torque loads, with you’re understanding of material strength etc, you would never fly again as you would be convinced the engine would fall off. (spoiler alert, they are not very big.)

Did you thought about why there is no galvanic corrosion of aluminium wheel? Maybe alloy matters?

Here we go again.

Unless the wheel mounting surface is painted, or anodised, then a bare aluminium alloy wheel mounted to a steel hub will exhibit galvanic corrosion if moisture is present between the two. Granted, some aluminium alloys suffer worse than others, but stating an aluminium alloy wheel isn’t effected by galvanic corrosion is patently false.

 

[Scubadriver]

Hey Guys,

TLR - Trying to determine which Enkei PF01 size is best for my application on a M3P, and do I need spacers, hub adapters, etc.

I have an M3P on order and I think want to sell off the included 20" Uberturbine wheels & tires while they are new and have max value. I don't want tires that low profile or that narrow, and the wheels are heavy. My goal is to get a wheel/tire combo that improves performance without sacrificing range. Normally this is difficult, but I believe by going to a lighter, wider 18" wheel, & a stickier tire I can get better performance, more comfort, and have similar range. Here's what I'm thinking:

Enkei PF01 in either of the following configurations:

Staggered:
F: 18x8.5 +35 w/ 235/45R18
R: 18x9.5 +35 w/ 265/40R18

or

All Around:
18x9.5 +35 w/ 265/40R18

Hi Carskick,

I was curious how this turned out for you. Did you end up with PF01s? Wondering about the interference on rear brakes mentioned above.

I am going through the same process. I am preparing to order an M3P. I really don't like the Uberturbine look or susceptibility to damage on the awful Houston city streets.

I am thinking either Enkei (have served me well on my track MX5) or Apex (have served me well on my M235i).

Thanks!

 

[silverflash]

 

[silverflash]

View attachment 709086

I’m running Enkei PF01’s 18x9+35 with a 255/35 tire with hub rings. The only issue I have is it trips the traction control even in track mode, my next tires will be 265/35 or 255/40.

 

[RacerChris]

I’m running Enkei PF01’s 18x9+35 with a 255/35 tire with hub rings. The only issue I have is it trips the traction control even in track mode, my next tires will be 265/35 or 255/40.

Are you thinking you have diameter issues tripping the TC? That is interesting - I am on 275/35 right now (for racing) and was on a 255/40 and have not had issues.

Regarding the 265/40 - I have run Goodyear SC 3's in this size and I think they look pretty mean honestly (just my opinion though). I think having this little bit of extra sidewall also helped in autocross when I was in the street stock class due to the lack of camber.

 

[silverflash]

Are you thinking you have diameter issues tripping the TC? That is interesting - I am on 275/35 right now (for racing) and was on a 255/40 and have not had issues.

Regarding the 265/40 - I have run Goodyear SC 3's in this size and I think they look pretty mean honestly (just my opinion though). I think having this little bit of extra sidewall also helped in autocross when I was in the street stock class due to the lack of camber.

Yes I believe it’s the smaller diameter tripping the traction control

 

[Carskick]

Sorry, never got back on here!

The stock setup rode and handled better than I expected, so I left it for now. But I am planning on upgrading once my first tires get worn. I'm already at over 8k miles, and probably a little over halfway through the OEM Pirelli's.

That being said, since this is a daily car, I'm probably not going as wide as I planned. I still have to install the front mud flaps from Tesla, as even stock, it throws grime all over the side of the car when it's rained.

So at this point, I'm probably going to go simple and get 19x8.5" wheels made for Tesla's, then get 245/40R19. That should add only .2" of overall diameter, .7" to the side wall, and .4 to tire width.

I'm hoping this change will not negatively impact range, since the wheels should be much lighter than stock and it's only a marginally larger tire.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!