Here's a 2013 MS that we just completed. It's already seen rock chips from daily driving, but it's never too late to prevent more from happening.
I wanted to share a picture to showcase the clarity of ClearGuard Nano. We've tested, used, and experimented on many brands but always noticed a high level of orange peel (ripply look) in the film. This is definitely the clearest film we've ever seen in the market.
Client opt'd for our EVS custom hood option. We precisely get as close as possible on all the edges of the hood to give it a "seamless" look. It's a much lengthier process, but combined with the clarity of CGN, the film looks virtually invisible.
Showing another corner of the hood. Usually you'll have little cutouts called "relief cuts" to help relieve tension in stress prone areas of a panel. As a part of the custom hood option, we are able to eliminate that as the film is tailored by hand.
After installing the PD-S1000 body kit, we're now going to paint protect the new front end! Also adding some pictures of the T logo and chrome slit we wrapped in carbon fiber. Really love this leading edge carbon fiber vinyl--super realistic!
They are arriving! We're protecting the 3's exterior paint with ClearGuard Nano--entire car! Protects paint against rock chips, light scratches, graffiti, bird droppings, etc, plus it's the clearest film we've seen in the market so your beautiful paint can shine through.
I've noticed with the rise of ceramic glass coatings in the recent years, there's been a bit of misunderstanding with what a ceramic glass coating can do for your paint. We're all for ceramic glass coatings, but it is not a replacement/substitute for ClearGuard Nano/paint protection films. They work hand in hand. If your main concern is rock chips and light scratches, ClearGuard Nano/ppf is what you're looking for. Ceramic coatings help give you that brilliant shine, but please understand that with only a ceramic coating on your car, your paint is still very vulnerable to rock chips and light scratches/scuffs. I just wanted to address this to help avoid any more cases where I see people asking online why they still have rock chips on their paint after putting a ceramic coating on. Don't want to find out the hard way.
On another note, here's an X that's getting the front end protected and a ceramic coating applied on top afterward.
Just finished up on the full front end of this Model S. Client upgraded to the EVS custom hood option giving his hood coverage a seamless look. This meticulous service combined with ClearGuard Nano gives you virtually an invisible protection.
I often get asked, "do I really need to cover more than just the bumper?" and it really depends on how much you value the rest of the front panels of your Tesla--the hood, fenders, and mirrors.
We often inform clients that if you're only planning to only do the front bumper, you might as well save your money. Rocks/stones can hit your hood, fenders, and mirrors just as easily as your bumper (even on X's!), so it makes no financial sense to save only your front bumper. You can really see the types of damage that can occur on the hood, fenders, and mirrors in these pictures of an unprotected S. You see a huge sort of variety from shallow specks to deep ones that penetrate through the primer.
New Model X getting started on an entire vehicle ClearGuard Nano wrap--hood, fenders, bumpers, doors, a pillars, trunk, mirrors, etc. Some people ask if it's necessary to do the entire vehicle and that really depends on you. How much do you care about the paint condition staying new/like new? How long do you plan on keeping the Tesla? What do you plan on doing with it? Where do you plan on taking it?
We always recommend at the very least to protect the full front end, but seeing how superchargers are making it a breeze to take more road trips than ever before, most of our clients want more protection from the unknown.
Besides the entire coverage, we're also blocking out the heat with Photosync window films, as well as a dash cam, and ceramic coating.
About to get started on this new Model X. Finished tinting it with Photosync on all the windows, including the front windshield, and now we're prepping it for ClearGuard Nano. We're protecting the whole front end, all the doors, and the rear bumper. A good reason clients tend to protect the doors is for door ding protection, especially in tight parking spots. The rear bumper protection is nice for accidental bump protection i.e. shopping carts or people parking too far up into your spot.
Here's some close ups of the silver MX we just finished. Full front end + doors + rear bumper coverage.
Close up of the hood, fender, and headlight:
Client requested the EVS custom hood option where we wrap all the edges for a virtually seamless look. This is not a template coverage with wrapped edges, which a lot of shops will convince you it is. A template hood w/ wrapped edges will still have "relief cutouts" on the corners to help technicians lay down the film easier. This means your corners will be exposed, and dirt can lay in those corners. There's nothing technically wrong with it, but please make sure you know exactly what you're getting. An EVS custom hood option is all done by hand, so everything is trimmed to fit your exact Tesla. *If anyone is interested in this option for their Tesla, please let me know specifically in our conversation together.*
Here's another side by side comparison between ClearGuard Nano (right) and another popular film (left). Notice the deeper gloss and clarity on the right side. This really allows the beautiful paint on your Tesla to shine through more clearly as there's less "orange peel" effect and "cloudy-ness" getting in the way.
As more clients are picking up their new S, X, and especially 3, everyone is looking for the best way to preserve their new, beautiful paint. So a question I get asked a lot is, "Aren't all clearbras/ppf the same?"
Yes and no.
Yes, all clearbras are made to protect your paint from physical damage as much as a film possibly can, but the way they look, feel, act, and age vary. Some brands aren't as clear as others. This translates to a more "orange-peel" texture/look essentially on your film/paint. Some colors--it's more obvious, which means certain panels will look almost ripply compared to the panels that don't have clearbra. A really high quality clearbra should actually better than your unprotected panels, or relatively the same assuming the Tesla is brand new.
So if you're in the market for a clearbra, and you want a brand that's clear so it won't hinder your beautiful paint from shining through, especially the metallic flakes, I recommend doing either or both things:
1. Find as many pictures of the brand/film installed on a car.
2. Going and just visiting the studio/shop and seeing if they have any cars available you can just look at. Some times you don't realize how unclear a film looks until you see a comparison in person, which some shops may have in their showroom. This is more important than #1.
Expanding on my answer from the post above, this picture is a good example of a high clarity film like ClearGuard Nano on top of paint. A paint protection film shouldn't be adding excessive orange peel texture/look to your paint, to where you can notice a wrapped panel vs a non wrapped panel.
Freshly installed ClearGuard Nano paint protection film on the front end of this blue Model 3. I highly recommend at minimum, if you want to protect your paint, cover the entire full front end. Partial kits may be cheaper, but ultimately leave you spending more money in the long run, moreso than doing it full in the first place. Rock chips do hit beyond the first 12 inches of hood and fenders. You'll end up having to remove the clearbra, repaint the entire hood/fenders and replace it with a full coverage anyway.