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Clicking sound while turning - gearing up for my 5th SC visit

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My M3 was built in winter 2019.

I wanted to chime in today and say the clicking is still gone for me now since the fix I mentioned above. I have put over 1k miles since then.
Thanks for the update... I actually took the wheel off & installed it a few weeks ago and it hasn't returned. Could be because I'm driving FAR less... but I'm also hoping it's not temperature-related. I'm getting very impatient waiting to install a bunch of parts. BTW video was moved here:

 
Interesting. I have recently discovered this in my car. Only turning right, seems to come from front left. And what is weird with mine is that I only get a SINGLE click. No typical on-the-way-out CV joint constant clicking noise, just the one, like all the lash built up gets released. No SC anywhere near me, but I'm also afraid they'll blame the UP lowering springs on any issue. And I'm all about Magnusson-Moss, but it would change the angle fo the axle, and they could make a caes that that angle would lead to premature wear. So I'd be stuck with swapping springs, again, for a service visit. THis info may help.
 
I’ve been fighting a clunking, clicking noise for months. I thought it was a function of loose nuts/bolts/brackets, etc after installation of UPP lowering springs and sway bars. I’ve checked their tightness, etc multiple times. About two weeks ago i was driving up my smooth, sloped drive way. I let up on the accelerator pedal for a second and car gently started to roll back a bit. Upon reapplying i heard a clunk or click. Sounded very much like noise from defective CV joints, etc. I ensured axle nut was tight to spec, along with lug nuts (they were). I raised the car and gave the wheel a turn rapidly clockwise/counter clockwise rotation. Sounds like its coming from inner CV joint or transfer case. I have an appt at SC scheduled. Left front wheel exhibits same noise, albeit much less pronounced than right front wheel.

Now it makes sense. When you hit a bump your foot most likely comes off accelerator or bump causes slight “slack” in drive train. Now it seems to make sense. Question now is what part might be causing this. I can assure you not the lug nuts too loose. Seriously doubt its the axle nut. I can clearly feel the clinking in the drive line. I’m hoping its just as simple as torquing down the inner CV joints. Maybe replacing the CV joints and axles. Perhaps its a need for grease on the axle splines. Hoping Tesla figures it out. It’s really pronounced when driving. Every little bump or entrance into driveway or parking lot makes the noise

 
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FWIW: Tesla replaced the LF axle shaft in my 2020 in June and that did NOT solve the clicking issue. It's going back in once the new SC opens near me. I'm experiencing slight click/clunk when turning wheel during back in/back out situations as well - maybe related?
 
I’ve been fighting a clunking, clicking noise for months. I thought it was a function of loose nuts/bolts/brackets, etc after installation of UPP lowering springs and sway bars. I’ve checked their tightness, etc multiple times. About two weeks ago i was driving up my smooth, sloped drive way. I let up on the accelerator pedal for a second and car gently started to roll back a bit. Upon reapplying i heard a clunk or click. Sounded very much like noise from defective CV joints, etc. I ensured axle nut was tight to spec, along with lug nuts (they were). I raised the car and gave the wheel a turn rapidly clockwise/counter clockwise rotation. Sounds like its coming from inner CV joint or transfer case. I have an appt at SC scheduled. Left front wheel exhibits same noise, albeit much less pronounced than right front wheel.

Now it makes sense. When you hit a bump your foot most likely comes off accelerator or bump causes slight “slack” in drive train. Now it seems to make sense. Question now is what part might be causing this. I can assure you not the lug nuts too loose. Seriously doubt its the axle nut. I can clearly feel the clinking in the drive line. I’m hoping its just as simple as torquing down the inner CV joints. Maybe replacing the CV joints and axles. Perhaps its a need for grease on the axle splines. Hoping Tesla figures it out. It’s really pronounced when driving. Every little bump or entrance into driveway or parking lot makes the noise

Every car I’ve ever owned does this on the driven wheels - it’s just slack in the diff. That being said, I’m not sure at which point it can be considered a problem. You’ll never hear it in a regular car because many other noises are masking it... let us know how it goes.
 
Every car I’ve ever owned does this on the driven wheels - it’s just slack in the diff. That being said, I’m not sure at which point it can be considered a problem. You’ll never hear it in a regular car because many other noises are masking it... let us know how it goes.
I’d agree that slack or noise is not uncommon. Personally i think the splines or CV joints need lubing to quiet the clunk down. it is really obvious. I’ve owned four other EVs (Nissan Leaf, two BMW i3s and a Kia Niro EV), albeit the Tesla is the first with all wheel drive. None had any drive train noise that was perceptible. This is perceptible, especially on rougher roads. Sounds like loose suspension. Except that same clunking loose suspension sound also occurs when starting/stopping or rolling backwards, then moving forward with accelerator input.

Hopefully they can solve it.
 
So I have this same issue. The clicking in the first video. I have brought it in 3 times already this is the third. They replaced half shaft, wheel hub assemblies on both left and right. I'm beginning to think this is suspension related or a defective vehicle.

My vehicle stats: 1480 miles yes, one thousand four hundred eighty miles... 20% of those those miles are travelling to the dealership.

I'm in California, if after 4th repair I will be seeking arbitration for a full refund/exchange of my vehicle. I believe it's suspension related and the last thing I want is my life in danger. Love the technology, hate this experience I should have went with my gut and bought a 550i. I only got it for the speed, no fuel, and the "hassle free" maintenance on it. I guess I was wrong.

Or maybe I bought the model 3, dual motors AWD the lowest model and I shouldn't be messing with lower trim models and pony up another 40k? I don't know.

This is frustrating even more because obviously covid, but more so that I have to take time off working from home which is already a mess...

I'm regretting my purchase.
 
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So I have this same issue. The clicking in the first video. I have brought it in 3 times already this is the third. They replaced half shaft, wheel hub assemblies on both left and right. I'm beginning to think this is suspension related or a defective vehicle.

My vehicle stats: 1480 miles yes, one thousand four hundred eighty miles... 20% of those those miles are travelling to the dealership.

I'm in California, if after 4th repair I will be seeking arbitration for a full refund/exchange of my vehicle. I believe it's suspension related and the last thing I want is my life in danger. Love the technology, hate this experience I should have went with my gut and bought a 550i. I only got it for the speed, no fuel, and the "hassle free" maintenance on it. I guess I was wrong.

Or maybe I bought the model 3, dual motors AWD the lowest model and I shouldn't be messing with lower trim models and pony up another 40k? I don't know.

This is frustrating even more because obviously covid, but more so that I have to take time off working from home which is already a mess...

I'm regretting my purchase.
I linked to my update earlier in this thread:

Clicking sound while turning - gearing up for my 5th SC visit

I'm surprised that some SCs still haven't figured it out. Whatever they're doing to share information among themselves isn't working.
 
Here’s what Tesla SC said. Quoted from my invoice.

“Technician inspected, found aftermarket springs on OEM struts, aftermarket sway bars front and rear, and all sway bar end links. Noise is caused by lowered springs on OEM struts, struts bottom out on jounce movement of suspension. Strut is gas to soften the jounce travel, since vehicle sits lower, strut is not allowed to fully soften jounce to its abilities allowing strut to bottom out. This noise cannot be covered under warranty due to aftermarket parts. ‘

I disagree w technician. It makes noise when not even going over bump etc. if it was as they said, then does not seem that it would make noise when slightly accelerating/decelerating on completely smooth terrain.

How should I proceed?