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Clicking sound while turning?
- Thread starter pipplo
- Start date
Dolemite
is my name
What sucks is that I have MPP coilovers sitting waiting to be installed. Don't want to install them for fear of getting blamed it's somehow my fault.
Dolemite
is my name
Took the car in today. They said Tesla's engineering department released an updated design & part number. They didn't know the differences. They'll be swapping both of my front hubs. We'll see what happens.
Like I said, this really blows because my MPP coilovers came in last week. Now they're just gonna sit there until I'm confident the issue's been resolved.
Like I said, this really blows because my MPP coilovers came in last week. Now they're just gonna sit there until I'm confident the issue's been resolved.
Dolemite
is my name
Picked up car yesterday. Clicking is gone. I don't know how long I should drive it before installing my coilovers. :/
Dolemite
is my name
Clicking has resumed. lol.
Thank the lawd Baby Jesus I live 4 miles from an SC. If I: 1) wasn't a car guy, 2) didn't work in a field where nothing ever works, and 3) lived 500 miles from a service center, I could totally understand how someone would start getting fed up at this point.
Thank the lawd Baby Jesus I live 4 miles from an SC. If I: 1) wasn't a car guy, 2) didn't work in a field where nothing ever works, and 3) lived 500 miles from a service center, I could totally understand how someone would start getting fed up at this point.
Dolemite
is my name
Got the car back this morning. No parts replaced, this time, but one of the guys tightened a bolt on the lower control arm. We'll see what happens.
Had same issue 4 months ago, they said it was dirt on mating surfaces and they cleaned it up and lubed hub mating. Technician also mention that it happens due to how it all was designed and Tesla engineers working on replacement part (don't remember which one). Unfortunately, issue is back and I will go to service next week. I have only 3.6k miles on my 3.
Dolemite
is my name
Might've been the "updated hub," like mine got, which did not resolve the problem.
As I suspected, mine is starting to return. Next time will be my 4th visit regarding this issue & I'm starting to get a little impatient. What I can't understand is why the hell are only a few cars exhibiting this problem, if it's a design flaw? Makes no sense.
Here are some videos of the noise:
jerjozwik
Active Member
i was working with tesla for nearly a year on the issue. multiple hub replacements and other things. all in ive brought my model 3 in 4 times specifically for this wheel locked clicking noise.
upon the last visit the service center mentioned there was a bit of dirt when they took the wheel and hub off. since that day i have been regularly blasting the wheel well and axle assemble with my garden hose. noise is not 100% gone but is very much reduced.
my 3 is a dec 2017 build long range rear wheel drive.
upon the last visit the service center mentioned there was a bit of dirt when they took the wheel and hub off. since that day i have been regularly blasting the wheel well and axle assemble with my garden hose. noise is not 100% gone but is very much reduced.
my 3 is a dec 2017 build long range rear wheel drive.
linux-works
Active Member
I looked at all the posted videos and mine is doing the exact same thing. sorry, I didn't see this thread until now.
mine is in service now, at sunnyvale. took it in at 11.30am; they will have it all day today and maybe have it back tomorrow.
tech said it could be 2 things: dirt between rotor and (something) that should auto-clear but the holes or something that would let junk out are not working well (I didn't catch the detail of what he was saying, just the gist). 2nd thing was a design or build flaw in some ball joint or link.
bought car 4 months ago. never took it off highway, but we did have some flooding over the winter (on some roads) and I do remember driving over some water that was deeper than I would have liked. maybe some stuff got in, from that drive. will follow-up once I hear back from the SC.
stuck home - not even uber credits offered (sigh). will have to bum a ride in to work tomorrow and back again. people at work (the tesla haters) are already giving me crap about this.
mine is in service now, at sunnyvale. took it in at 11.30am; they will have it all day today and maybe have it back tomorrow.
tech said it could be 2 things: dirt between rotor and (something) that should auto-clear but the holes or something that would let junk out are not working well (I didn't catch the detail of what he was saying, just the gist). 2nd thing was a design or build flaw in some ball joint or link.
bought car 4 months ago. never took it off highway, but we did have some flooding over the winter (on some roads) and I do remember driving over some water that was deeper than I would have liked. maybe some stuff got in, from that drive. will follow-up once I hear back from the SC.
stuck home - not even uber credits offered (sigh). will have to bum a ride in to work tomorrow and back again. people at work (the tesla haters) are already giving me crap about this.
linux-works
Active Member
if you did not install them yet, I'd hold off until you are really sure the clicks don't come back.
we all know how tesla loves to deny things when they see aftermarket..
Dolemite
is my name
The dirt thing in miscellaneous parts is absolute garbage. You didn't do anything wrong. I commute 8 miles a day & this car has never seen any types of adverse conditions whatsoever. It still has this problem. I can't understand why aren't all cars exhibiting this problem, if it's a design flaw? Are others simply not noticing it? If not, then why do our cars do it while others don't?
1st visit: FL hub replaced
2nd visit: Both hubs replaced with the "updated part"
3rd visit: It was something about tightening one of the LCAB bolts (with a breaker bar... per the rep... wtf?)
For some unfortunate reason, taking the wheel off & putting it back on makes the noise go away for a while. I really wish they would figure this out.
Mine is getting worse every day now after my last visit, as usual. I wait so that it's easier to reproduce when I take it in (yet again).
1st visit: FL hub replaced
2nd visit: Both hubs replaced with the "updated part"
3rd visit: It was something about tightening one of the LCAB bolts (with a breaker bar... per the rep... wtf?)
For some unfortunate reason, taking the wheel off & putting it back on makes the noise go away for a while. I really wish they would figure this out.
Mine is getting worse every day now after my last visit, as usual. I wait so that it's easier to reproduce when I take it in (yet again).
Dolemite
is my name
By the way... the guys at my SC are super cool. They said that 99.9% of the time, nobody there will give you any crap for aftermarket parts... but I'm playing it safe. Since I'm doing suspension work I could totally see someone blaming me.
linux-works
Active Member
and the cost of an install, de-install and re-install - not to mention wear on parts - just wait until the ticking goes away.
linux-works
Active Member
if there was something in there, wouldn't it wear down if it was just caught between things? or eventually work itself out?
I hope they don't start with the 'you drove it wrong' stuff. they are not apple and can't quite get away with staying stuff like that, yet
jerjozwik
Active Member
this weekend i will remove my front two wheels, inspect the wheel and rotor surface and polish any ruff surfaces, also may consider a soft foil to place between. have to think on that last idea more.
Dolemite
is my name
Why have you given up on the service center? This is definitely an issue that Tesla should address. Luckily, I live very close by & have no qualms about visiting them every single week if I must.
jerjozwik
Active Member
linux-works
Active Member
does anyone know if the click noise is more than just 'annoying' (as a sound)? is damage being done, if we don't address this?
are rotor surfaces being scratched?
I have yet to remove my own wheel so I'm not even sure what its like in there (yet) - but wondering if this is something that will cause trouble later on, if its not dealt with.
dirt does not sound like a show-stopper, but if a ball joint or link is bad, that sounds like a SAFETY issue.
not sure if this is related: but when I bought the car, I noticed pretty quickly that some roads causes the steering wheel to jerk quickly, as if the wheels got stuck in some longitudal line in the road and your tire aligned with it and followed it. that was happening a lot, on certain roads (usually as I enter a freeway from an onramp). could be due to the angle of the road and being on a curve - not sure - but several times the wheel seemed to suddently follow a slightly different angle and I had to snap the steering back to keep the car on track.
wonder if there is anything related to that? if something in the suspension was not right, wouldn't I know it from about 3000 miles that I've put on the car, so far? or could this failure mode be something that, when the car drives straight, the problem is masked and only shows when you turn the wheel beyond a certain amount?
if this is a safety issue, we should not just laugh it off.
are rotor surfaces being scratched?
I have yet to remove my own wheel so I'm not even sure what its like in there (yet) - but wondering if this is something that will cause trouble later on, if its not dealt with.
dirt does not sound like a show-stopper, but if a ball joint or link is bad, that sounds like a SAFETY issue.
not sure if this is related: but when I bought the car, I noticed pretty quickly that some roads causes the steering wheel to jerk quickly, as if the wheels got stuck in some longitudal line in the road and your tire aligned with it and followed it. that was happening a lot, on certain roads (usually as I enter a freeway from an onramp). could be due to the angle of the road and being on a curve - not sure - but several times the wheel seemed to suddently follow a slightly different angle and I had to snap the steering back to keep the car on track.
wonder if there is anything related to that? if something in the suspension was not right, wouldn't I know it from about 3000 miles that I've put on the car, so far? or could this failure mode be something that, when the car drives straight, the problem is masked and only shows when you turn the wheel beyond a certain amount?
if this is a safety issue, we should not just laugh it off.
Dolemite
is my name
**** that. I wonder what their explanation would be for the right-hand wheel not doing it, then? This is an unacceptable "resolution" for a $50K high-performance car that's still under warranty. Clearly if just getting "dirty" (or in my case, vaguely dusty) is enough to create such a problem, there's a design flaw.
That's called tramlining - some roads do it more than others. Some tires (esp. wide, high-performance ones) are more susceptible than others.
I don't think there's any damage, but it's unacceptable & irritating nonetheless. My SC told me they have a way to wire the car up with microphones to trace exactly where the sound is coming from, but I don't believe they've done that, yet.
Like I said, removing & reinstalling a wheel makes the issue go away, for a bit. I think there's some amount of play in some component somewhere that can only be measured in microns. Once reassembled, things are initially "tight." As the car's driven & the suspension settles over the coming days/weeks, the noise returns.
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