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Clicking sound while turning?

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**** that. I wonder what their explanation would be for the right-hand wheel not doing it, then? This is an unacceptable "resolution" for a $50K high-performance car that's still under warranty. Clearly if just getting "dirty" (or in my case, vaguely dusty) is enough to create such a problem, there's a design flaw.

you must be new to tesla...

my parking spot is outdoors and my model 3 drives all of 3 feet into hard soil at <5mph. yah, gona call that one a design flaw for sure. right now the spray hose to the wheels every week or two is going ok. i will be paving my driveway over the next few months so maybe ill be free of this daily torment like that of a 1990s front wheel drive dodge.

also, my right wheel is the loudest clicker, the left is about 45% of the intensity of the right.
 
you must be new to tesla...

my parking spot is outdoors and my model 3 drives all of 3 feet into hard soil at <5mph. yah, gona call that one a design flaw for sure. right now the spray hose to the wheels every week or two is going ok. i will be paving my driveway over the next few months so maybe ill be free of this daily torment like that of a 1990s front wheel drive dodge.

also, my right wheel is the loudest clicker, the left is about 45% of the intensity of the right.
Interesting that both of yours are clicking... If I had to guess (again) I think there's a bolt or something that's simply out-of-spec. I wish I could simply ask them to replace all of the suspension bolts & bushings & see what happens.

Also yes, I'm new to Tesla, but experienced w/ cars... the guys at my local SC seem pretty legit & willing to resolve the issue. But sometimes I feel like it depends a bit much on which technician you land on.
 
@Dolemite, your videos sound extremely similar to our Honda Fit that simply had gravel between the heat shield and the rotor. It did this often and sounds terrible, but is a really easy fix. In my case, we actually had to take the rotor off in order to get the offending rock out.

It also sounds like any number of front of issues including CV joints still. Do you have lemon laws where you live? You're close or at the point of being able to exercise them if you do.
 
@Dolemite, your videos sound extremely similar to our Honda Fit that simply had gravel between the heat shield and the rotor. It did this often and sounds terrible, but is a really easy fix. In my case, we actually had to take the rotor off in order to get the offending rock out.

It also sounds like any number of front of issues including CV joints still. Do you have lemon laws where you live? You're close or at the point of being able to exercise them if you do.
I feel like any vibration or tolerance issues in the wheel/hub area sound the same/similar - which is part of what makes this so difficult. I saw a video of an old Nissan Maxima with a bad CV that sounded exactly like mine... not sure what to think anymore.

What are you calling the heat shield? #2 here?

upload_2020-3-3_13-8-7.png


As far as lemon laws go in VA:
  • The manufacturer, its agents, or its authorized dealers, must have tried to repair the same defect three or more times and the same defect continues to exist;
  • The defect must be a serious safety concern and has been subject to one or more attempts at repair by the manufacturer, its agent, or its authorized dealer and the same defect continues to exist; or
  • The motor vehicle is out of service due to repair for a thirty (30) calendar days.
 

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I feel like any vibration or tolerance issues in the wheel/hub area sound the same/similar - which is part of what makes this so difficult. I saw a video of an old Nissan Maxima with a bad CV that sounded exactly like mine... not sure what to think anymore.

What are you calling the heat shield? #2 here?

View attachment 517526

As far as lemon laws go in VA:
  • The manufacturer, its agents, or its authorized dealers, must have tried to repair the same defect three or more times and the same defect continues to exist;
  • The defect must be a serious safety concern and has been subject to one or more attempts at repair by the manufacturer, its agent, or its authorized dealer and the same defect continues to exist; or
  • The motor vehicle is out of service due to repair for a thirty (30) calendar days.

Yeah #2. It can sound identical, or crunchy, or squealy all depending how a rock sits in there. It's shocking how much terrible noise can be made.

I'm not absolutely sure but it sounds like they've seen it at least 3 times for the same issue now in your case? If so, looks like you're primed to pursue that.
 
Since you guys are frustrated and looking for any solution, how about finding a big parking lot and driving around in circles with the full lock clicking until something really breaks?

Could expose what's really wrong and speed up this whole resolution process for everything.
 
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Not exactly the same noise but I recently brought up a squeaking noise when going from full lock to full lock. They replaced the front upper control arms on the driver and then as they were giving it back to me they noticed the noise coming from the passenger so they are replacing that. The only explanation I received was that the part was “wearing” faster than usual and required replacement. We shall see tomorrow what other noise the car makes.
 
Since you guys are frustrated and looking for any solution, how about finding a big parking lot and driving around in circles with the full lock clicking until something really breaks?

Could expose what's really wrong and speed up this whole resolution process for everything.
I tried this in front of the Tesla store with the service tech and then one of the managers got upset and told us if we wanted "to do donuts" we needed to go out back.
 
Not exactly the same noise but I recently brought up a squeaking noise when going from full lock to full lock. They replaced the front upper control arms on the driver and then as they were giving it back to me they noticed the noise coming from the passenger so they are replacing that. The only explanation I received was that the part was “wearing” faster than usual and required replacement. We shall see tomorrow what other noise the car makes.

That’s scary to hear. The Model 3 is the first car I’ve owned, apart from R/C cars when I was a kid, that had suspension arms made of plastic! Maybe that wasn’t such a good idea.
 
got my car back today. noise is gone, so far.

they said it was sway bar links. but I never got a service receipt (probably going to take a visit to them, sigh, just to get another copy. I hate this 'we'll email you all the paperwork' stuff. the email never got here and there's no other way to see any history on your account (really tesla? we can't even see our service history? what's up with that??)

I'll have to watch this over time to see if it comes back. they didn't use the 'rock' story this time.

no charge, under warranty.

really hope I can get a receipt to see what they actually did.
 
got my car back today. noise is gone, so far.

they said it was sway bar links. but I never got a service receipt (probably going to take a visit to them, sigh, just to get another copy. I hate this 'we'll email you all the paperwork' stuff. the email never got here and there's no other way to see any history on your account (really tesla? we can't even see our service history? what's up with that??)

I'll have to watch this over time to see if it comes back. they didn't use the 'rock' story this time.

no charge, under warranty.

really hope I can get a receipt to see what they actually did.
First time I'm hearing that one - and I've heard a lot of BS. Let's hope it's a miracle and they're right. Would love it to be something that simple.
 
when I was waiting for my car to be brought around for me, I saw a SA dump something that looked like a pair of links into the dumpster. I guess they hold onto your parts, just in case you ask for them (I should have!) - and when the customer closes the case, then its time to throw the bad parts out. so, I do think that's what they did. I asked about hubs and they said that wasn't my problem. asked why, for some users, removing and reinstalling the wheel fixes it for short term. they gave me a 'bambi in headlights' look, like I was nuts. fwiw
 
Until they can figure it out, nobody is qualified to look at anyone in any way.

Pls report back after a few days/weeks - mine is steadily getting worse after the last "fix." Seems to take a bit of driving & heat/cold cycles before it returns.
 
does the amount of torque, matter? I know we have to use quite a high value, for what most are used to.

a friend at work (his car is a year older) is also, now, saying that he thinks there's a front end click on his. I'm pushing him to take his in, we'll see if its at all the same.
 
are you asking about bolt torque or power output torque? because if its the latter... my car is rear wheel drive and the clickity clackety is from the front axle only.

bolt torque, as it could be one thing that varies due to R/I of wheel.

what else is done during the process of removing a wheel? the car is jacked up. maybe there's something to that - maybe jacking the car at certain points puts stress on some metal parts and that bends things slightly which then hides the problem? just a total WAG but I'm trying to think of what the *process* of changing a wheel could be that might be what some are seeing. clearly R/I of a wheel, in itself, does nothing. I'm thinking some side effect is what some are seeing.

I'm really curious, now.
 
That's the thing with the analog world... it's more complicated than the digital one.

Nobody can say for sure until somebody lands on the exact culprit. Maybe there's some machining imperfection that's irrelevant until the mating surface between the wheel & hub "settles" after driving for a few hundred miles. There could be some suspension components that "relax" to some degree when the car is in the air, which then also take some time to settle back down into their previous state. We're talking movements between parts that are barely measurable and only occur when there's thousands of pounds of force exerted on them. Intermittent problems are the worst - especially when you have to wait a certain time for them to return.