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Clunk/ thump from driver front over bumps

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My model 3 has had this slow-speed suspension noise since new. On my first set of tires, the left front tire had cupping wear. It was so bad that I replaced the tire. Tesla North Houston did a wheel alignment and insisted that that was the issue. The only adjustment they made was on toe-in. Which would affect both front wheels, not just one. It never fixed anything. I still have the noise and the replacement tire again had cupping wear. I am going to take it to Tesla south Houston and hope they will replace the shock. I Pulled my Model X order because of the North Houston shop. It was the worst experience.
 
I'm also having a single very loud clunk or pop in the front end - when starting out - in forward or reverse or turning, or when going over a road undulation at slow speed. It almost seems like something broke off or came loose every time it happens. Someone said there's a recall for this in the states? Is that correct? Late 2020 Model 3, 31K miles, stock car, 18" tires.
 
Guys, I have a brand new 2022 M3P with 197 miles on it in Naples FL. Roads are as smooth as glass except some of those road reflectors that the state glues to the road to highlight the lanes. When I drive over those reflectors at speeds of say 45 or less, some of those reflectors cause a "clunk", "thud", "knock" or whatever word best describes a suspension noise that doesn't sound right. It is definitely in the front end, and seems to be the drivers side area.

My lug nuts are torqued at precisely 129 Lb Ft, My 20" Pirellis are at precisely 42 PSI cold.

Is it the sway bar?, is it the control arms? Any definite ideas from the suspension pros here are greatly appreciated.

If anyone has the Tesla factory torque values for the Model 3 Performance suspension, please share.

Thanks
 
With the exception of the FUCA bushing bolts (don’t mess with those) and LCA/subframe bolts, suspension fasteners are readily accessible once the wheel is removed. Keep in mind that the LCA/damper bolt must be torqued at ride height. The splash guard should be removed in order to properly torque The LCA/subframe bolts.
 
With the exception of the FUCA bushing bolts (don’t mess with those) and LCA/subframe bolts, suspension fasteners are readily accessible once the wheel is removed. Keep in mind that the LCA/damper bolt must be torqued at ride height. The splash guard should be removed in order to properly torque The LCA/subframe bolts.
Hi Occhis,

So if I understand correctly. Don't touch the FUCA bolts. Should the rest of the suspension bolts be checked with wheels on and sitting on the wheels.

If I have the technician check these for me at Naples Ferrari where I go, should they lift the car using the pucks or lift the car on the ramp style lift where the car is lifted by the wheels and not the pucks?

I want them to first do a visual inspection and if anything looks or feels loose, then do a torque check.

My car drives straight and feels amazing, its just that at slower speeds on certain small road seams or those florida road reflectors that I hear a faint clunk-thunk somewhere in the front end and mostly seems like drivers side.

Thanks
 
The only one that needs to be torqued at ride height is the lower control arm to damper bolt. It’s the long one that goes through the lower damper bracket and the middle of the lower control arm. It’s the red one in this pic. All others (blue circled ones)can be torqued while lifted.
 

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Guys, I have a brand new 2022 M3P with 197 miles on it in Naples FL. Roads are as smooth as glass except some of those road reflectors that the state glues to the road to highlight the lanes. When I drive over those reflectors at speeds of say 45 or less, some of those reflectors cause a "clunk", "thud", "knock" or whatever word best describes a suspension noise that doesn't sound right. It is definitely in the front end, and seems to be the drivers side area.

My lug nuts are torqued at precisely 129 Lb Ft, My 20" Pirellis are at precisely 42 PSI cold.

Is it the sway bar?, is it the control arms? Any definite ideas from the suspension pros here are greatly appreciated.

If anyone has the Tesla factory torque values for the Model 3 Performance suspension, please share.

Thanks
I have the same noise,...you will hear it going over a concrete garage or paver road.. Did the Tesla able to figure out and fix the issue for you?
 
Hi
When I go over bumps at low speeds like 30 or less I hear a clunk / thump from the drivers front wheel. It almost sounds like a bad or loose strut.

I did take it to Tesla and they just said they checked and tightened everything in front and it didn't help at all.

I did call them and they just said bring it back in.....and I will....but I want to know if others have had a similar issue so I can know what to tell them to look at.

My faith in dropping this off again and then coming to pick it up fixed is not high.
Hi di You fix?
 
Hi all, I thought I would check in here. I have this issue on my 22 model Y P and had it back to Tesla six times attempting to fix.

The problem was first noticed when the car had about 3,800 miles on it. On the 5th attempt Tesla replaced the driver side (LF) strut assembly. The problem went away for almost exactly the same mileage (confirmed via TeslaMate) and then returned. I took it back a 6th time and Tesla says it's characteristic of the car. They drove another 22 Y P with about 9,000 miles and it did the same thing. I then rented yet another 22 Y P built about 4 months after mine with 7,000 miles on it and it made similar noises.

It has to be something in the front strut assembly as it went away when they replaced that. It feels and sounds like something is loose under the car but the car handles just fine. It doesn't do it on large bumps or over speed bumps. It only makes the noise over small to medium bumps and it really gets going over washboard type road surface.

I'm now debating if I should spend the money on MPP Coilovers or just try to ignore the noise.
 
Hi all, I thought I would check in here. I have this issue on my 22 model Y P and had it back to Tesla six times attempting to fix.

The problem was first noticed when the car had about 3,800 miles on it. On the 5th attempt Tesla replaced the driver side (LF) strut assembly. The problem went away for almost exactly the same mileage (confirmed via TeslaMate) and then returned. I took it back a 6th time and Tesla says it's characteristic of the car. They drove another 22 Y P with about 9,000 miles and it did the same thing. I then rented yet another 22 Y P built about 4 months after mine with 7,000 miles on it and it made similar noises.

It has to be something in the front strut assembly as it went away when they replaced that. It feels and sounds like something is loose under the car but the car handles just fine. It doesn't do it on large bumps or over speed bumps. It only makes the noise over small to medium bumps and it really gets going over washboard type road surface.

I'm now debating if I should spend the money on MPP Coilovers or just try to ignore the noise.
Yes. Is the left struct somehow has bad design or bad batch. Find a different revison or aftermarket struct. My m3 gas the same. I end up getting a used one installed myself
 
Hi, I have this problem too with. The noise manifests itself when the car takes potholes or road bumps, it sounds like a "clunk" and searching on the internet I found a video where SPLPARTS branded endlinks are replaced that has spherical joints and would solve the problem.

I'll put the video here if it can help, hoping that's the problem.