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Yes, your average person would not be able to do that on their own.
I'm still under warranty for a couple more years, so I have time to figure it out. Hopefully Tesla will quit being the soup nazis by then.Yes, your average person would not be able to do that on their own.
You won't get stuck due to this fault. The amount of play causing the clunk is tiny.That seems to be the consensus. I figured I would ask again since the clunk/ticks seem to have gotten a little worse. Last thing I want is to be stuck in the middle of nowhere on a road trip. Thanks all!
I think you should try to get the car into service and at least get a diagnosis before the trip. Service wait times have gotten dramatically shorter in the past few months so it should not be a problem to get in. Then you will know for sure what the problem is, rather than relying on an internet diagnosis from folks who haven't heard your car. If it is indeed the spline rust issue, then you should be fine to wait until after the trip.That seems to be the consensus. I figured I would ask again since the clunk/ticks seem to have gotten a little worse. Last thing I want is to be stuck in the middle of nowhere on a road trip. Thanks all!
I emailed the Decatur service center a couple times and have gotten no response to some questions I had about one of my doors failing to open. I figured they were slammed and would push it once I got back from the trip. It's too late now. I leave next week and won't be able to bring it to them because my schedule is too packed. We have to take the car too because my wife's car has no AC.... and it's an ICE. No wayI think you should try to get the car into service and at least get a diagnosis before the trip. Service wait times have gotten dramatically shorter in the past few months so it should not be a problem to get in. Then you will know for sure what the problem is, rather than relying on an internet diagnosis from folks who haven't heard your car. If it is indeed the spline rust issue, then you should be fine to wait until after the trip.
Backing up a minute... what is a half shaft? I'm guessing it is the axle assemble on each side, likely including 2 CV joints each?
Yes it does.
I have not taken one apart but they have the exact same appearance as a complete half axle assembly typically found on AWD and FWD cars.I suppose it's possible. My FX50 had cv joints on the rear half shafts but that was due to the higher suspension travel and rear wheel steering combined to make the articulation angle more suitable for a CV joint.
So do you mean "Constant Velocity" joint or U joint or Cardan joint? CV joints are ball joints with grooves and roller balls in the grooves that allow the transfer of torque to remain constant.
Many confuse Cardan joints with cv joints and assume they're cv joints just because they articulate and have boots.
I'll admit that I was "assuming" that the rear drive shalfs are not CV joints because the articulation angle doesn't require them. IRS for sedans typically use Cardan joints. CV joints are more common on the rear with SUVs that have IRS due to the large suspension travel requiring smooth torque transfer at higher articulation angles.
Oh and I got a P revision- not a the supposedly newest/best "Q" revision...
I say, smokem if you gottem.Yea I want to say each DU has lasted longer than the one before it. I'm not sure if that's because I was driving it harder when I first got it (lots of demo launches for friends and myself) or the DUs are getting better or both
I pulled out my frunk to add hepa to my biodefense modeless car. And saw significant rust on the front half shalf.
Car is not even a year old and 23k miles. How do I even bring this up to the service center? I'm not see performance issues. No clunking or weirdness. Just a crap ton of rust. Should have taken picture but it's cold in nj.