Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Clunking sound is costing me a bundle to fix out of warranty

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I had the same noise start at around 35k, and the fix was replacement of exactly the same parts. It's quiet now except for a very tiny bit of take up lash, which I'm assuming is in the drive unit. Of course if it gets worse it's going back in for another crack at it. The tech knew what the fix was instantly upon hearing the noise, so it should not be a surprise to them. The Performance parts might be an update to the original that fixes the issue.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: SeminoleFSU
I'd have to go back and look at my records but I had this SAME exact noise somewhere around the same time frame... 30k miles or so and they fixed under warranty. I remember my service tech talking about "splines and half shafts"... But I didn't pay much attention because it was under warranty and my problem was addressed. Now the noise is back and I have 60+k on the odo... out of warranty. I always expected this to be covered under the "infinite miles" drive train warranty if it came back.. Now I'm finding out that's not going to be the case. I wonder how long you can drive with this issue before it becomes more than just an odd clicking noise you hear across various positions on the accelerator? o_O:(
 
It's not going to be covered under the battery/drive unit warranty. I drove with it for several months before it became to annoying to live with any longer. It didn't really get a lot worse.
Wait, it did NOT get a lot worse but you couldn't live with it any longer? If it doesn't get any worse I think I can live with it as long as I'm not risking some catastrophic failure at some point in the future that could leave me stranded and/or cost me more $ to fix, I'm fine putting up with the sound. Anyone know if this is a harbinger of worse things on the horizon, or just a noise that develops and can be fixed (albeit it seems only temporarily) by allowing Tesla to charge you a few grand??
 
I wonder how long you can drive with this issue before it becomes more than just an odd clicking noise you hear across various positions on the accelerator? o_O:(

I don't think the axles will fail anytime soon just from the clicking noise. Even the front CV joints on FWD cars will get noisy when worn but it's not an urgent thing.
 
It got slightly worse, pretty much to the point of what a bad CV joint sounds like. Although it's just a single tick, or maybe two, on transition from acceleration to regen or vice versa. It never got super loud or sounded like something was experiencing severe damage. But the annoyance built up over time to the point that I couldn't stand it anymore. Kind of like Chinese water torture.
 
It got slightly worse, pretty much to the point of what a bad CV joint sounds like. Although it's just a single tick, or maybe two, on transition from acceleration to regen or vice versa. It never got super loud or sounded like something was experiencing severe damage. But the annoyance built up over time to the point that I couldn't stand it anymore. Kind of like Chinese water torture.
Gotcha... I can identify with the annoyance building up over time, although in my case replace annoyance with "worried and mildly annoyed"... If it doesn't end in me being stranded or costing me more money to fix because I ignored the clicking then I'm going to try and grin and bear it. Your description around it being a "tick, or maybe two on transition from acceleration to regen or vice-versa" precisely describes the issue btw. It only occurs on that transition from acceleration and regen... almost sounds like a light tap on a woodblock (yes I was a band geek in my youth) If you're sitting on an incline you can rock back and forth and tap along with music if you want (this is what a, um, friend told me...) :p
 
Last edited:
I would ask Tesla to "good will" the repair, it's a design flaw to have parts like these fail after so few miles. If Tesla declines, I would send a message to the regional or VP level letting them know that if they don't agree to comp the repair by a certain date that you are going to contact the local and national media, including Consumer Reports. Sometimes you have to lose your *sugar* in order for Tesla to pay attention and give you some satisfaction.
 
Just received a repair bill of $3,480 + tax for my 2013 S 60 that has 38k miles on it. Unfortunately the car just went out of warranty and Tesla didn't find this issue during the 4th year inspection that happened last month. And unfortunately it looks like I just missed my opportunity to purchase the extend service agreement (ESA - extend warranty) by like 10 or so days so this will have to come out of pocket. Tried calling Tesla support and discussed with service center and they said there's nothing they can do.

Initially I thought the clunking sound (similar to this video here) may be the drive train problem coming up again as I has it replace in March of 17, but the service manager tells me that this is a different issue and will require the half shaft replacement.

1) If you plan to keep the car beyond your warranty period, make sure you purchase an ESA. Don't miss getting the ESA
2) For a car that has 38k miles, no matter how you cut and slice it, having this this type of repair cost to me is a defect, plus I paid 4 year service for the car and this wasn't detected.

It seems like this is actually a problem that a number of people have experienced.
Model S "Axle" problems | Tesla
Subtle "clunk" from rear when accelerating from a stop


***Do copy outside of TMC Forum without my explicit permission***

So the Vehicle Warranty / Infinite Mile Warranty is for the motor and not the entire drive train? Seems like a drive shaft of any flavor should be part of the original warranty on the drive unit which goes 8 years, infinite miles.

Just warranting the motor for that time and letting the drive train fail is lesser than the drivetrain warranty found on common new ICE cars nowdays.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: SeminoleFSU
So the Vehicle Warranty / Infinite Mile Warranty is for the motor and not the entire drive train? Seems like a drive shaft of any flavor should be part of the original warranty on the drivetrain which goes 8 years, infinite miles.

Just warranting the motor for that time and letting the drive train fail is lesser than the drivetrain warranty found on common new ICE cars nowdays.
Sorry, but no. You have to read all the words carefully. You say drive train, the blog post says battery and drive unit. Unit being the motor, inverter, and gear box combo. I tried to get it covered under the drive unit warranty and the answer was no.
 
Sorry, but no. You have to read all the words carefully. You say drive train, the blog post says battery and drive unit. Unit being the motor, inverter, and gear box combo. I tried to get it covered under the drive unit warranty and the answer was no.

read all the words carefully indeed, read my post again, you are saying exactly what I said but somehow think I said different.

I did say what I though "should" but included but I also said what was included.

So the Vehicle Warranty / Infinite Mile Warranty is for the motor and not the entire drive train?
that would be the what was included part.

Seems like a drive shaft of any flavor should be part of the original warranty on the drive unit which goes 8 years, infinite miles.
that would be a part about what "should" be included.

I'm saying with all the blog entries sounding nice with Infinite miles, it's a shame that the entire drivetrain isn't included as most would assume it should be.
 
Last edited:
  • Disagree
Reactions: MP3Mike
You said the warranty was a drivetrain warranty and it isn't. It is Battery/Drive Unit warranty.

and then I clarified my intent with further words. As in read the entire post not focus on one word choice.

I've fixed the typo now, but as I said all along:

I'm saying with all the blog entries sounding nice with Infinite miles, it's a shame that the entire drivetrain isn't included as most would assume it should be.
 
@dhanson865 - I meant no offense and apologize if I misinterpreted your post. "Read all the words" is an expression I use with one particular friend who is often guilty of not doing so.

Let's not get into an argument with each other over semantics, when the real outrage should be with Tesla for making us pay to fix this stupid problem.

Edit - just to reiterate. The problem is rust! On a 3 year old car, never driven in snow. Grrrrr.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GSP and dhanson865
Tesla's prices are inline with industry OEM prices. OEM BMW half shafts from a 5-series are $1200 or $1700 for the M5.

A third party shop could have looked at this anyway, there is nothing special Tesla about it, nor any reason (besides a lack of market) that a aftermarket manufacture couldn't make some.

Late model 650HP Corvette 1/2 shaft IRS axle assys, full MSRP, $380 R (20977317) $314 L (20977316). So <$700 for the pair. You can get them cheaper though, that's full dealer service pricing.

Please show me a $1700 1/2 shaft for a M5 BMW. This I gotta see. Does it have gold inlay? Cuz it sure don't have 650 horse.
 
The tech also told me that it was safe to ignore for as long as I wanted, as the actual amount of slack was tiny and the parts were already worn enough to need replacement no matter what. It got too annoying for me to wait until the next annual service so I took it in just for this repair.
 
This is probably the best news I've heard all day!! THANK YOU Gavine!
Just to be more clear about it, watch the following video from 0:40 to 1:45. That's where I learned that it wasn't urgent, but he's referring to FWD and said not to worry if it clicks on turns but if it clicks when going straight, it's time to replace. So, sorry for the false good news. Sounds like you might want to get them changed.

 
  • Informative
Reactions: SW2Fiddler