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Clunking sound is costing me a bundle to fix out of warranty

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I was planning to get the model 3 to replace the S, so paying 4k doesn't make sense to me since I'm planning to keep it for a year at most. Also since I've just literally gone through the 4th year inspection and the drive unit and battery is already covered under the 8 year warranty.

Not asking tesla to take the loss, was trying to see if I can get the ESA since I've just missed it by like 10 days or so, but if not, it's not tesla's fault for not doing this.

But, this doesn't change the fact the car is only $38k and requires this much cost to fix with a problem that I think should have been discovered in the 4th year maintenance that happened less than 1 month ago.


Also was looking at this from teslarati for the ESA, seems like lot of things won't be covered anyway, plus you have to pay $200 deductible per visit.

Should I Buy the Tesla Extended Service Agreement?

  • 12V battery failure (7 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • 17″ screen reacting to static electricity (missing MCU ground) (7 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • Sunroof rattle on back roads (shims added) (7 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • UMC failure (8 months) (may be covered by extended warranty)
  • Front right tire rubbing wheel well (11 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • Bad ball joint (11 months) (would be covered by extended warranty)
  • Leaky sunroof seal (12 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • Charge port rings discolored (12 months) (would be covered by extended warranty)
  • Key fob falling apart (13 months) (wouldn’t be covered by extended warranty)
  • Drive unit failure (15 months) (covered by infinite mile drive unit warranty)

Half the problems described Ive had... and ESA covered ALL of it. Key fob, sunroof, battery... this makes no sense,
 
This whole thing is crazy-- most cars built these days can go 100k miles without any serious manufacturing issues. ...
Exactly. That's the reason why Tesla has to resolve matters like this in a more customer friendly way under European law and actually does.
Companies like Apple, HP and Dell had to learn the hard way that they had to adapt their 'corporate polities' to respect consumer rights in Europe. Tesla has proven to be a fast learner, so far.
 
If it is the splines on the half shaft creaking a little, then it would take a very long time before it strips out completely.

Had a BMW X5 for a time that were known to have a badly designed spline on the front drive shaft. Noise would progress from creak to metallic clunk whenever you changed direction, to completely stripped out above 150k miles. By then, there were some improved aftermarket replacements available.

If you can get it replaced under warranty, definitely do that! Even if they refuse initially, make sure the mileage/date of the first complaint is documented so you can get it covered latter.

When I was putting on my winter tires/wheels, I noticed Tesla doesn't "stake" the nuts on the end of the half shaft like many other car makers. Wonder why and if that would help...
 
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This matches the description I was told by the tech. The joints are fine. It's the splines and the hubs that get worn out due to a problem with a washer that leaves them not engaged tightly enough. It is still weird that it needed to be fixed so early, as my last Audi had 250k on the rear axles when I sold it and had never needed so much as a boot replacement. Rear axles should be incredibly durable.
 
Not to get too distracted with talk of BMWs, but I looked at those pricey half shafts for the newest M5 and M6. They are doing the same as Tesla - no pieces or boots available, just full assemblies. Other strong BMW platforms (like X5 with 5.0 V8) still show boots available and not just full assemblies.

Oh well, lets hope its somehow a good sign. ;-)
 
Here you go:
Genuine BMW Output Shaft Left D=40mm - 33212284115 - F06,F10,F12,F13

Maybe do some research before being a jerk...

I stand corrected, and have one more reason to ridicule the Ultimate Hype Machine. :D

The most powerful mass produced gas engine is the 707HP Dodge Hellcat V8 which has an IRS. It's axles are $484 full list.

The Viper ACR is famous for parts abuse, $762 owww.

The Jaguar F-Type V8, 575hp, $930 OUCH!!

Porsche 911 GT3? $950 MSRP. Porsche is famous for overpriced parts though.
 
The definition of a Drivetrain is all of the components connecting the motor to the wheels(including axels). Powertrain is the drivetrain plus the motor. Tesla does not have a "drivetrain" warranty like BMW. Tesla has a "Drive Unit" warranty.

The "drive unit" itself which contains the motor, inverter & gearbox is covered. I recall the mechanics stating the P85 drive unit was a $150 remanufactured part, after subtracting the core cost of the original. If you really do need axels, then those prices look accurate(assuming they don't give core recovery prices). If that Tesla service isn't sure the parts will fix it, find a different service center. Choose one of the older centers that's been around since 2013 if possible. Make sure they completed all of the service bulletins on your car. If they skipped a related bulletin that was at the discretion of the inspecting mechanic during your 4 year period, you can argue that they should have done that bulletin. If it came out during your ESA period, they should still do it for free now, since they opted not to earlier.

I originally bought a demo P85 in 2013 (no miles, just a mall show car). When I had a clunking noise, they replaced only the drive unit and added the bulletins updated washers and wire ties. Then when that reman unit started rumbling they replaced it again, more bulletins, didn't have any issues after that. I've never heard of a base S60 having the same issue, it was always the P85's (and roadsters) that were in the local shop for repairs.

Honestly, the noise won't leave you stranded for a long time. if it's not noticeable just keep it another 10 years. I'm actually surprised the service center didn't pre-empt the conversation by giving you the trade-in offer. You may not want to consider it at all, or maybe you do. Sell Tesla the S 60, and they will send you off in a new or pre-owned 75D. Tesla sales probably won't count the repair against the trade in value, since the new owner gets a fresh warranty anyway. Not sure your car specs, but trade in might be around $35-40k usd. Since they sell 2013 S60's ~ $40-54k usd. A newer 75 has better range, 4th gen powertrain platform, AP, would leave you with a payment though. Tesla has "demo" cars which qualify for the federal US tax break, where as the "Pre-owned" cars do not. Doesn't NJ give a sales tax break on new Electric cars?
 
Just received a repair bill of $3,480 + tax for my 2013 S 60 that has 38k miles on it. Unfortunately the car just went out of warranty and Tesla didn't find this issue during the 4th year inspection that happened last month. And unfortunately it looks like I just missed my opportunity to purchase the extend service agreement (ESA - extend warranty) by like 10 or so days so this will have to come out of pocket. Tried calling Tesla support and discussed with service center and they said there's nothing they can do.

Initially I thought the clunking sound (similar to this video here) may be the drive train problem coming up again as I has it replace in March of 17, but the service manager tells me that this is a different issue and will require the half shaft replacement.

1) If you plan to keep the car beyond your warranty period, make sure you purchase an ESA. Don't miss getting the ESA
2) For a car that has 38k miles, no matter how you cut and slice it, having this this type of repair cost to me is a defect, plus I paid 4 year service for the car and this wasn't detected.

It seems like this is actually a problem that a number of people have experienced.
Model S "Axle" problems | Tesla
Subtle "clunk" from rear when accelerating from a stop



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***Do copy outside of TMC Forum without my explicit permission***
It is problem when when there are no dealers or competition. You have no recourse. You just have to accept the problems and pay
 
I didn't read all 4 pages but I want to point out one thing, and ask a question to the OP:

1.) Ford F-150s are notorious for having a "clunk" from a stop.
The fix is... basically what Tesla proposes to do as well. Ford went through YEARS of revisions, grease packing, various TSBs, and still hasn't really fully fixed this issue in older trucks. I'm hoping Tesla has figured it out in the latest revisions (mine stopped clunking after 3 replacements)

2.) How is this not covered under warranty? Its drivetrain. No cars are out of the 8 year drivetrain warranty yet.
 
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