Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Cold feet?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Model S considers your feet a waste of energy and is trying to kill them off for the trip to Mars ;)

edit: but seriously, yes, I had cold feet A LOT in my first winter with Model S. I heard here it was better once and then changed with software...
 
Solution. No more cold feet.
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1572895735630.jpg
    FB_IMG_1572895735630.jpg
    102.7 KB · Views: 246
  • 50263498_10158105249268712_2690868367530655744_n-1.png
    50263498_10158105249268712_2690868367530655744_n-1.png
    789.3 KB · Views: 189
  • Love
Reactions: Lex
  • Like
Reactions: Lex
Can you please describe what that is? Did you have a shop do it, or did you do it yourself, and what are the materials? Thanks!

Bottom layer is aluminium-butyl mat and the top layer is closed-cell foam mat. Sound and thermal insulation materials.

I used stp products (black gold and splen), but there's plenty of similar products, eg dynamat extreme. Look for products for car sound proofing. These are really easy to apply, cut with scissors and the mat has glue on the bottom.

Easy diy. Remove the panels around drivers footwell and roll up the carpet. There's 2 torx screws in the bottom panel under dash, everything else is just clips (pre-facelift cars). Prepare for tight fit when putting panels back

Also those clips break easy, you can buy them from service center.

I've done this to almost everywhere in my car, I'm planning to write a thread about all of it when I have some spare time.
 
Bottom layer is aluminium-butyl mat and the top layer is closed-cell foam mat. Sound and thermal insulation materials.

I used stp products (black gold and splen), but there's plenty of similar products, eg dynamat extreme. Look for products for car sound proofing. These are really easy to apply, cut with scissors and the mat has glue on the bottom.

Easy diy. Remove the panels around drivers footwell and roll up the carpet. There's 2 torx screws in the bottom panel under dash, everything else is just clips (pre-facelift cars). Prepare for tight fit when putting panels back

Also those clips break easy, you can buy them from service center.

I've done this to almost everywhere in my car, I'm planning to write a thread about all of it when I have some spare time.
I'm looking forward to it. It looks simple enough but I'd like a step by step to mitigate my mistakes or wasting material.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lex
Ok, I had a cold foot problem with my 2016 S. I took my thermal camera and discovered all the airflow is directed to the left leaving the right foot cold.

I made a snap-in "footwarmer" adapter that redirects about 1/2 the airflow to the right foot. Took me making 15 versions to get the airflow just right. Here's my article showing the results with my thermal camera. It's not an instant heat but works well at improved hot airflow distribution. The new 2021-2022 LR/Plaid has fixed the issue and I've found the footwell air distribution is fairly even.
parts-500a.jpg
 
I found a solution. Apparently the rubber on left window. Triangle. Was not airtide. All the heat was retracted true the left speaker. That’s why I had cold feet. Tesla replaced the rubber. No more cold feet. Took me years to find it. Check with your service center. Tesla bows about this issue finally.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: David29
I have the door rubber changed as well (few years back under warranty) but still have had chilly driving’s on winter. As in the other discussion linked on post #22 I thought to get the new version of the drivers side front footwell air-duct cover. But to get to the SeC here is not that manageable.
While I had other thing’s to attend over there I decided to take the footwell cover off. Found that this one on my car had only one hole to distribute the air on drivers feet. And looking closer decided to cut manually missing one, that was supposed to be there from the beginning.
Here is a small DIY guide if you are willing to get the cover off and you feel your feet cold on your commute (older models especially). This removal need some additional side panels to be removed (see the photos on post #24) as there is second hidden screw right at the RH side on the cover, well hidden by the centre section of the dash. It is harder to get it off, it has sections behind the pedals and also the duct connector to the car’s HVAC pipe. It needed some twisting and bending that cover but it does comes off. Installation is much quicker and easier, you already know the way it should be there, make sure the connector is set right before getting the screws back on. Also you need good carpet knife and some template paper. That material is really easy to cut! Will see how it will perform this winter…
Here they are, you see there are good alignment points for the cut-out area, make sure the dotted lines are also on your paper:
EE3855B0-2C86-426A-AF0F-BE42AB8CEC29.jpeg

B7555577-81E8-4244-BE37-61D94A092123.jpeg

Flip this over to the cover and mark the corners:
A72C9AF6-92A5-4579-88B9-F64FE801EEEE.jpeg

DAFCBE4E-5D2A-4E5A-8B0F-F0CD73206C59.jpeg

I cut diagonally as the mating back side is then at the same angle:
05C61649-B175-4DF0-A13D-D3837AC921EF.jpeg

2CADC3B7-8B14-489F-9005-D18A883B0E51.jpeg
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: shthpnz and David29