Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Cold weather experience Model 3LR AWD

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Good day, I purchased a model 3 but on my delivery date it was discovered that the car had been damaged during transport. They gave me a loaner P85D. This morning it was -12c or 10f. Now since this is a loaner I cant really preheat it. I will say that I am SUPER impressed by how fast the heater generates heat. That being said it makes perfect sense as its not waiting for a ICE to warm up. However a 60km trip costed over 100km of range. Left with 345km and got back with about 233km. My question is. Does preheating help with that? I noticed on my departure i was using about 450kwh/km but when i got back it was under 300kwh/km. Since it would be able to warm the batteries up before departure I am wondering if that's the same % of loss I should expect from my M3LR? Also since it has a heat pump vs resistive heaters I assume that will help some. Also one thing I found kinda sketchy was the regen braking yesterday when the roads were snow covered. The car felt like it was going to slide around when i took my foot off the accelerator. Has that issue gotten better or is this because I am sure its just some all season tires on this loaner? One thing I do love is the sound. Not the lack of. The sound of those electric motors. I am someone who had a straight piped Hemi not too long ago. I thought I loved the sound of a monster V8. Turns out my true love is what I can only describe as the sound of a Space ship haha. I want to mention I did my homework and I am not at all surprised or discouraged by the range loss. Just curious if this is the average to be expected. My daily commute is 60km and I have level 2 charging at home.
 
However a 60km trip costed over 100km of range. Left with 345km and got back with about 233km. My question is. Does preheating help with that? I noticed on my departure i was using about 450kwh/km but when i got back it was under 300kwh/km.
Yes, absolutely!
The car takes care of the batteries first and foremost, so warming them up before the trip (while you are still plugged into a charger) will minimize the extra electricity drain from warming the batteries.
Also, parking the car in a warm place (enclosed garage) helps a lot as well, since it does take a while to fully warm up icicle-frozen batteries that may have set in sub-freezing temps overnight.

Since it would be able to warm the batteries up before departure I am wondering if that's the same % of loss I should expect from my M3LR?
The exact #s may differ a bit, but the principle and the physics remain the same.

Also one thing I found kinda sketchy was the regen braking yesterday when the roads were snow covered. The car felt like it was going to slide around when i took my foot off the accelerator. Has that issue gotten better or is this because I am sure its just some all season tires on this loaner?

All-season tires suck in all seasons. But they are a cheap and dirty compromise for all OEMs who can't control in what climate the car owners may choose to settle.
As you are in Canada, I would not dare drive on all-season tires in the winter. Not if I wanted to get there every time, and didn't have access to another car with snow tires. Get snow tires on another set of wheels (but you know that already)!!!

HTH,
a
 
Also one thing I found kinda sketchy was the regen braking yesterday when the roads were snow covered. The car felt like it was going to slide around when i took my foot off the accelerator. Has that issue gotten better or is this because I am sure its just some all season tires on this loaner?
You're going to have to adjust your right-foot habits. Lifting your foot off the pedal is akin to lifting your foot off AND downshifting in an ICE car. The nannies will try to keep it going straight, but they will have to work hard at it. That is probably what you felt.

Try lifting your foot only part way, to get the deceleration you want. After a while in your own car, you will get used to making the car decelerate as you like.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gasaraki
You're going to have to adjust your right-foot habits. Lifting your foot off the pedal is akin to lifting your foot off AND downshifting in an ICE car. The nannies will try to keep it going straight, but they will have to work hard at it. That is probably what you felt.

Try lifting your foot only part way, to get the deceleration you want. After a while in your own car, you will get used to making the car decelerate as you like.
Yep, exactly this. It's a new trick you'll learn by 'engine' braking instead of using friction brakes. I prefer this method since the Model 3 (RWD and AWD) have rear-wheel regen braking, and you can still turn while slowing down. Lots of folks don't like it though as it gets a little freaky feeling the rear step out a bit.
 
Sounds about right. I live in Ottawa, and in the winter am usually atound 225-250wh/km. I’d say the best I’d be able to get out of the car in winter months would probably be ~300km on a full charge 100%-0%, although realistically it’s less as I dont charge to 100%, except for twice, and I dont got down to 0%, lowest I’ve gone was 3-4%. I have a 2020 LR though, no experience with the heat pumps. I just went to Montreal this weekend, used approximatetly 70% to do ~230km driving 105-110km/h. I keep it plugged in during the winter months so it pre-conditions every morning.

As for the unstable feeling during regen, you can turn the regen down until you become smoother with one foot driving, but yes, if you quickly take your foot off the accelerator on snow covered roads, it will definitely get the rear end loose.

Jared
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shelburne
Good day, I purchased a model 3 but on my delivery date it was discovered that the car had been damaged during transport. They gave me a loaner P85D. This morning it was -12c or 10f. Now since this is a loaner I cant really preheat it. I will say that I am SUPER impressed by how fast the heater generates heat. That being said it makes perfect sense as its not waiting for a ICE to warm up. However a 60km trip costed over 100km of range. Left with 345km and got back with about 233km. My question is. Does preheating help with that? I noticed on my departure i was using about 450kwh/km but when i got back it was under 300kwh/km. Since it would be able to warm the batteries up before departure I am wondering if that's the same % of loss I should expect from my M3LR? Also since it has a heat pump vs resistive heaters I assume that will help some. Also one thing I found kinda sketchy was the regen braking yesterday when the roads were snow covered. The car felt like it was going to slide around when i took my foot off the accelerator. Has that issue gotten better or is this because I am sure its just some all season tires on this loaner? One thing I do love is the sound. Not the lack of. The sound of those electric motors. I am someone who had a straight piped Hemi not too long ago. I thought I loved the sound of a monster V8. Turns out my true love is what I can only describe as the sound of a Space ship haha. I want to mention I did my homework and I am not at all surprised or discouraged by the range loss. Just curious if this is the average to be expected. My daily commute is 60km and I have level 2 charging at home.
Expect 30% range lost in the winter. The new cars with the heat pumps will help compared with the P85Ds heater. Preconditioning will help IF you are preconditioning while plugged in. If not it would just use your battery electricity to heat itself up which you don't get back from increased efficiency.

When you are one pedal driving in slippery conditions, modulate your throttle liftoff so you don't slide. It's like how you wouldn't slam on the brakes every time you need to slow down right?
 
  • Like
Reactions: GtiMart
Sounds about right. I live in Ottawa, and in the winter am usually atound 225-250wh/km. I’d say the best I’d be able to get out of the car in winter months would probably be ~300km on a full charge 100%-0%, although realistically it’s less as I dont charge to 100%, except for twice, and I dont got down to 0%, lowest I’ve gone was 3-4%. I have a 2020 LR though, no experience with the heat pumps. I just went to Montreal this weekend, used approximatetly 70% to do ~230km driving 105-110km/h. I keep it plugged in during the winter months so it pre-conditions every morning.

As for the unstable feeling during regen, you can turn the regen down until you become smoother with one foot driving, but yes, if you quickly take your foot off the accelerator on snow covered roads, it will definitely get the rear end loose.

Jared
You can't turn down the regen anymore.
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: GtiMart and rpiotro
Unfortunately, it doesn't. The induction motor has no regen, most likely due to it being less efficient than the PM motor in the rear.
Yes even with snow tires it can be a bit sketchy letting your foot off the go pedal. Rear wants to lock up and gets a bit squirrely. I wish they would do front regen when it's cold. If they are (I don't have scan my tesla to confirm) it's not very much because the back end gets unstable quickly.
 
Please stop. What you said is not true. The Model 3 does NOT have induction motors. They have IPM-SynRM motors, which stand for 'Internal Permanent Magnet - Synchronous Reluctance Machine'.

And the Model 3 does use the front motors to do regen.
You're wrong, go ahead and prove me wrong then. Model 3 & Y use induction front PM rear.

Watch Bjorn driving his Model 3 Performance in the snow and notice which motor's taking the regen.

The dual-motor versions of the Model 3 have an induction motor in the front and a permanent magnet synchronous reluctance motor in the back. The Model S and Model X switch this around, putting an induction motor in the back and a PMSRM in the front.

Combining an induction motor with a PMSRM makes sense because the two motor types have different performance characteristics. As Elon Musk put it last year, "one is optimized for power & one for range." Induction motors offer high torque at low speeds, but they're less energy-efficient overall. So dual-motor vehicles can send power to the induction motor when immediate, rapid acceleration is called for, then shift power to the PMSRM as the vehicle gets up to speed.
 
Unfortunately, it doesn't. The induction motor has no regen, most likely due to it being less efficient than the PM motor in the rear.

"... It's a few feet better than the rear-drive car thanks to an increased regenerative braking effect from the front motor. (Rear motors applying too much regenerative braking can destabilize the car, so they can't regenerate to their full potential.)"
 

"... It's a few feet better than the rear-drive car thanks to an increased regenerative braking effect from the front motor. (Rear motors applying too much regenerative braking can destabilize the car, so they can't regenerate to their full potential.)"
Your example applies to one specific case where a Performance model is in track mode, and this doesn't apply to normal driving conditions as well as in the snow. Do you have any examples of AWD model 3s using the front motor to brake in normal situations?

Also, have you come up with any evidence that both the motors in the Model 3 are PM?
 
  • Like
Reactions: afadeev

"... It's a few feet better than the rear-drive car thanks to an increased regenerative braking effect from the front motor. (Rear motors applying too much regenerative braking can destabilize the car, so they can't regenerate to their full potential.)"
That statement is 100% full of nonsense from Motortrend. The limiting factor for braking is the tire traction. Having more regen on the front (which the Model 3 doesn't even do in normal driving) means nothing when the brakes have enough power to lock the tires up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: afadeev
That statement is 100% full of nonsense from Motortrend. The limiting factor for braking is the tire traction. Having more regen on the front (which the Model 3 doesn't even do in normal driving) means nothing when the brakes have enough power to lock the tires up.
Why? Why do people say things that are not true. Braking is not all about tires. The motors help a lot in a Tesla.


 
  • Disagree
Reactions: afadeev
Why? Why do people say things that are not true. Braking is not all about tires. The motors help a lot in a Tesla.

Dude please stop. You are posting about an ABS algorithm change now. This has zero to do with the motors. This is a function of traction from the tires to the road. The brakes on your car are strong enough to lock the wheels up so yes, braking is 100% based on traction.