I have a late 2017 S75D, and I've noticed the expected range that's displayed is always overstated by 15-20%, no matter where or how I'm driving. My commute for example is exactly 31 miles one-way, and the car always seems to "use" 35-38 miles. Even for longer trips, the range used will be 15-20% higher than what's estimated. This happens independent of driving style (I'm a fairly conservative driver), weather (I live in the Bay Area so it's always temperate), and hills/traffic (my drives are generally flat without too much traffic). My energy reading shows a pretty consistent 300 Wh per mile +-10%. Is this a normal thing for Model S's, and shouldn't the on-board computer adjust its estimate based on historical energy usage and driving patterns?
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Nissan Leaf does a better job estimating.
When you turn on ac it drops. Etc.
When you turn on ac it drops. Etc.
300wh/m is pretty normal. Do you have it set to rated miles or ideal miles? It would WAY overstate the ideal miles.
Also, you're not going to get rated range for short trips. That comes into play more with 100-150mile trips of highway driving.
No. The rated range is the range on the EPA test cycle. Period. Full stop. If you use navigation, the trip planner does take into account recent energy usage.
As noted above, the miles only really matter when driving long distances. Around town, no one pays any attention to it as it’s plenty for the day and it’s assumed you’re going to plug in each night.
This may be helpful. There are multiple places to look for "range", but they do different things.
The little battery icon in the front console behind the steering wheel is really a battery meter, not a range estimate. It can be toggled in the settings --> units to display either as a % of the battery, or translated by a fixed constant into those "rated miles". Since that is representing the % full of the battery, that shouldn't be changing based on your driving style. But most people don't think in terms of "How many % away is grandma's house?", so converting it into some kind of distance term is at least ballpark useful even if it's a little on the high side. But yes, EPA test methods for gas or electric cars are a very mild type of driving and most people don't quite get that in most regular use.
The other place for a range estimate is in the center touch screen. Display the Energy app, which has the line graph. You can view either the past 5, 15, or 30 miles of data. Then, on the right, it will say "Projected range". That is doing what @number12 mentioned with the Nissan Leaf. It is taking your real energy consumption and then projecting that into the future to show you how many real miles of distance you will be able to go if this recent trend of consumption continues. So if you are using air conditioning or a lot of heat, that will be showing in your actual energy use and will affect that projected estimate.
The little battery icon in the front console behind the steering wheel is really a battery meter, not a range estimate. It can be toggled in the settings --> units to display either as a % of the battery, or translated by a fixed constant into those "rated miles". Since that is representing the % full of the battery, that shouldn't be changing based on your driving style. But most people don't think in terms of "How many % away is grandma's house?", so converting it into some kind of distance term is at least ballpark useful even if it's a little on the high side. But yes, EPA test methods for gas or electric cars are a very mild type of driving and most people don't quite get that in most regular use.
The other place for a range estimate is in the center touch screen. Display the Energy app, which has the line graph. You can view either the past 5, 15, or 30 miles of data. Then, on the right, it will say "Projected range". That is doing what @number12 mentioned with the Nissan Leaf. It is taking your real energy consumption and then projecting that into the future to show you how many real miles of distance you will be able to go if this recent trend of consumption continues. So if you are using air conditioning or a lot of heat, that will be showing in your actual energy use and will affect that projected estimate.
300 wh/mile is higher than rated wh/mile. So first question is does your actual wh/mile consumption match up with the kWh used from the battery?
My overall wh / mile over the last 20K miles or so has been in the 315 range but that's combined city driving with lots of Ludicrous launches. When I drive on long trips on the freeway with no head or tail winds in weather that isn't really cold I easily average 285 wh / mile which is lower than the 300 wh / mile rated that my performance model is rated at.
Have you checked your alignment?
My overall wh / mile over the last 20K miles or so has been in the 315 range but that's combined city driving with lots of Ludicrous launches. When I drive on long trips on the freeway with no head or tail winds in weather that isn't really cold I easily average 285 wh / mile which is lower than the 300 wh / mile rated that my performance model is rated at.
Have you checked your alignment?
So we have 3 terms we need to nail down.
Rated Range (RR)
Projected Range (PR)
Total Estimated Driving Distance (TEDD)
Rated Range yes I believe comes from Tesla engineers and the EPA. Solid line on the graph.
Projected Range is the dotted line and is a figure based on how you are currently driving, hills, winds, etc.
And from the Owners Manual, Total Estimated Driving Distance...that is the figure by the green battery icon on the dash. This is calculated by the BMS and can vary due to many things. (see
Battery Degradation; Sailing & Touching a Shore for more details)
Rated Range (RR)
Projected Range (PR)
Total Estimated Driving Distance (TEDD)
Rated Range yes I believe comes from Tesla engineers and the EPA. Solid line on the graph.
Projected Range is the dotted line and is a figure based on how you are currently driving, hills, winds, etc.
And from the Owners Manual, Total Estimated Driving Distance...that is the figure by the green battery icon on the dash. This is calculated by the BMS and can vary due to many things. (see
Battery Degradation; Sailing & Touching a Shore for more details)
One highway trips in summer, I've been able to get rated range fairly easily, and quite often more. There's no magic to it. If I do 95-100-ish km/hr I'll get my range, or often better. If you let your speed climb, use A/C, heat, whatever else, you'll lose it.
deonb
Active Member
FWIW I have a Ford F350 that also displays diesel level using remaining range, and will sometimes display 650 miles on a full tank, depending on various factors. It lasts about 300 miles in reality.
Last week I had the reverse - it displayed 190 miles remaining, I went and drove 60 miles, and then it displayed 200 miles remaining after. Go figure. (No I didn't regen the diesel by driving down a long hill...).
Last week I had the reverse - it displayed 190 miles remaining, I went and drove 60 miles, and then it displayed 200 miles remaining after. Go figure. (No I didn't regen the diesel by driving down a long hill...).
No. The battery icon displays rated range (unless you have changed your display setting to “ideal” range which is not recommended).
Sawyer8888
Member
A while back I changed the battery icon on the driver's display to % instead of miles due to the inaccuracy. I'll only switch it back to miles when charging to 100% to see how many I may have lost since my last full charge.
I'll start experimenting with the Energy app as suggested by @Chaserr. Sounds like that may be the most accurate method for obtaining a running estimate of remaining miles.
Just tried it and it looks more realistic: 186 vs. 154 based on mostly highway driving at 80 mph over the previous 30 miles...
Compared to the main display Energy App - Consumption graph at the same time...
No, from the owner’s manual, which I’ve attached. The battery icon is TEDD (in either range or battery life remaining). See item #9.
RATED range is the solid line on the energy graph. It even says “rated range.” Im not sure what I’m missing but as Tesla experts, we’ve got to get our terms straight!
What Tesla says is the estimated driving distance available on the battery icon is another way of saying the rated range. It’s confusing that Tesla started also describing it with that phrase but it’s never been based on your driving. If your 100% charge is 250 miles, for example, and you are at 50% charge you can toggle the units back and forth and see either 50% or 125 miles.
It’s been that way since the first Model S. If Tesla changed their definitions, they haven’t told anyone.
Actually you can see an example of this in the post above yours. The battery icon says 186 miles and the trip meter shows 154 miles projected range, less than rated range on the battery icon because he’s been going 80 mph recently.
It’s been that way since the first Model S. If Tesla changed their definitions, they haven’t told anyone.
Actually you can see an example of this in the post above yours. The battery icon says 186 miles and the trip meter shows 154 miles projected range, less than rated range on the battery icon because he’s been going 80 mph recently.
The Roadster is a bit different in its terminology, but basically I only drive with the main display set to "Ideal" miles, which for this car is the EPA-ish estimate based on remaining battery charge. The "Estimated" range - the one based on the past 30 miles of actual driving - is really only good for knowing where you have been, not where you are going.
On longer trips, where keeping an eye on the range is important, I usually run a mental comparison between the range the car thinks it could go (the Ideal), and what the Nav system says I still have left to travel. The difference between the two should be what I will have left when I arrive, and if I find that going down too fast (if the glide slope is worse than Ideal), I can adjust my driving to compensate. It becomes a bit of a game to try to beat the Nav system... (And, remember we Roadster owners can't supercharge, so trip planning is a bit more important!)
On longer trips, where keeping an eye on the range is important, I usually run a mental comparison between the range the car thinks it could go (the Ideal), and what the Nav system says I still have left to travel. The difference between the two should be what I will have left when I arrive, and if I find that going down too fast (if the glide slope is worse than Ideal), I can adjust my driving to compensate. It becomes a bit of a game to try to beat the Nav system... (And, remember we Roadster owners can't supercharge, so trip planning is a bit more important!)
Change it from miles to percent and you’ll be much happier. Use the energy graph to view your predicted range. You’ll be much happier.
Canuck
Well-Known Member
Agreed. So what I do is charge to 10 - 20% over my arrival destination (depending on elevation changes, speed, weather, etc) and that provides sufficient buffer during travels to rid me of the "slow down" nag to make it to my destination.
Agreed too. Percentage is the only way to go.
RyanS
Ka-chow
Those things are never accurate. Leaf is so bad that they call it a guess-o-meter.
Just drive really slooooow like 25mph and you should be able to get 15-20% extra range. Don't drive around with any heavy luggages or gold bars in your trunk. Avoid overweight passengers. No AC or heater. And master the art of drafting behind a 18 wheeler, like a NASCAR driver.
Just drive really slooooow like 25mph and you should be able to get 15-20% extra range. Don't drive around with any heavy luggages or gold bars in your trunk. Avoid overweight passengers. No AC or heater. And master the art of drafting behind a 18 wheeler, like a NASCAR driver.
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