Yes, Tesla did it OTA! I think they just reseted the Remote Security Detector.
Now everything works.
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Yes, Tesla did it OTA! I think they just reseted the Remote Security Detector.
Now everything works.
whitex
Well-Known Member
See my post here for some idea as to what it takes to do it yourself, but if you're only willing to extract the MCU (see the video I linked to earlier) and the Tegra module (see post #1 of this thread), you'll need to send it to someone who will do the chip transplant for you. For static bags, this pack seems available for quick delivery (at least it shows next day prime delivery for me), is cheap enough, and one of those bags will fit your Tegra module with a heatsink no problem:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083NTXYFX
If it were me, one thing I would ask for is the Swissbit 32GB pSLC EM-26 chip for a replacement, as it is the highest performance and reliability of the Swissbit line (as per my post above). My MCU1 is currently running with this chip, and I'm quiet happy with it (see this post for more details on that).
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
@whitex thanks man, I reviewed all above and have the tools and skills to follow your awesome video. Thanks for the links on Amazon, I ordered everything I needed to get this rolling. Just waiting for Tesla to call back with the prognosis. Does Swissbit make a 64GB and would there be any benefit to upgrading this even higher (128+ GB?) or does the socket or firmware limit the size, or is limited by the budget?
I'm in no rush, I have another Model S, and several other options so I want to take my time and do it right...
I'm in no rush, I have another Model S, and several other options so I want to take my time and do it right...
whitex
Well-Known Member
Not in that product line line. I didn't dig any deeper as going any bigger is going to have diminishing returns too. With the 32GB EM-26 pSLC chip, I already get top performance (I haven't seen the datasheet of the original, but I'm guessing 4-5x the perf of the original chip when it was new) and a 28x the lifespan as compared to the original chip (so for my usage ~140 years), which means for the foreseeable life of the car, the chip will be in in top shape as it will be in the early stages of its lifetime.
A friend is asking me to help him get this done on his 2012. We don't know if the MCU was replaced at any point in the recent past, but it is acting up and better now than later.
He is asking me to do the removal, and then ship the Tegra off for repair. Can the various repair people PM me with costs, which chip will be installed, and lead time? (lead time isn't critical, but just want to know generally what we are looking at) He puts on serious miles each year.
Look forward to hearing from at least two of you!
He is asking me to do the removal, and then ship the Tegra off for repair. Can the various repair people PM me with costs, which chip will be installed, and lead time? (lead time isn't critical, but just want to know generally what we are looking at) He puts on serious miles each year.
Look forward to hearing from at least two of you!
I only paid one price
Three issues:
1. They do keep adjusting the price every few weeks for the refurb (mine was 1300 + a few minor parts (cable, etc. + labor + tax = ~1800)
In was more at the beginning, then they lowered it, now they raised it a bit.
2. The problem has been so widespread, seems they now have a supply of new units, too, which is 500 more than refurb.
3. It's Tesla - Like Musk, the company always had ADD..
I had a service appointment scheduled for today to investigate MCU issues. Based upon my description, Tesla ordered an MCU for me, but it has not arrived. They scheduled the service out another two weeks, partly for that and partly because I have had zero issues with the car ever since I made the appointment. Difficult to diagnose something intermittent. The service writer commented to to me that the MCUs are in short supply and they have had trouble getting them...he did not comment on whether it was high demand or supply problems during the COVID-19 shutdown.
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scottf200
Well-Known Member
I've been hearing from my customers that SC are quoting them 2-3 weeks because of MCU availability. Our turn around is still 5 days or less excluding shipping times.
Generally as the emmc wears, file corruption gets pretty bad. We generally notice lots of corruption on emmc's we copy close to end of life. The issues appear "random" because it's a bit random which files are written in marginal areas prior to it being marked as failed.
Depends on the age of the MCU, not all the older chips can report the health. The ones that can have very good indication of failure.
Just received my Tegra back from Tony T (EV-Fixme). Thanks again Tony. I am sitting in my car (Tesla Model S 2013 60’) the screen is more responsive than ever. Tony helped me with a 1 week turn around. That’s me shipping the Tegra Monday and receiving It Monday.
i bought this car last August used with 88k miles. I have been hit with door handles and the eMMC. The eMMC thanks to Tony was very simple. There is an online video to watch To remove the MCU.
a trim tool will help a ton.
once you have the MCU out, go to the 1st page of this thread, theres a good video on how to take apart the MCU. From there, removing the Tegra, or the upper left computer computer part with a cover on it. That’s what i call it. You will need a smaller torx, for me T7 and T6. Once the screws are out pull this towards the outside. This is the “Tegra” you need to ship.
re-install was tricky for me as some wires were extremely short. I am ashamed of the electrical engineers at Tesla. I bet manufacturing complained in 2012-2013 and later years are better. Be prepared to plug in blind.
Once the MCU is installed, the screen should turn on. Mine did not. If you only disconnected the fuse and did not disconnect the battery, a week prior, you will need to jump the car.
Jumping the car.. my front fascia is not how i accessed the battery +\- I had two clip right under the trunk hood. Popped the clips Then removed the part. This is different from other models. If you discover this thread and your car matches mine, PM me if you need help. Once i had access, i pulled my wife’s car around, once the cables were connected, the door handles activated. I did not have to start my wife’s car. Just connect. I thought that was odd.
screen turned on and now i am streaming, WiFi, Bluetooth, and my car is installing the latest upgrade. Like i said, i bought this car last August. I though streaming just took time. Now it is instant!
that’s my story. Now time to put the rest of this car back together! Thank you everyone for the help! Big shout out to Tony! 100% happy i did not call Tesla!
i bought this car last August used with 88k miles. I have been hit with door handles and the eMMC. The eMMC thanks to Tony was very simple. There is an online video to watch To remove the MCU.
once you have the MCU out, go to the 1st page of this thread, theres a good video on how to take apart the MCU. From there, removing the Tegra, or the upper left computer computer part with a cover on it. That’s what i call it. You will need a smaller torx, for me T7 and T6. Once the screws are out pull this towards the outside. This is the “Tegra” you need to ship.
re-install was tricky for me as some wires were extremely short. I am ashamed of the electrical engineers at Tesla. I bet manufacturing complained in 2012-2013 and later years are better. Be prepared to plug in blind.
Once the MCU is installed, the screen should turn on. Mine did not. If you only disconnected the fuse and did not disconnect the battery, a week prior, you will need to jump the car.
Jumping the car.. my front fascia is not how i accessed the battery +\- I had two clip right under the trunk hood. Popped the clips Then removed the part. This is different from other models. If you discover this thread and your car matches mine, PM me if you need help. Once i had access, i pulled my wife’s car around, once the cables were connected, the door handles activated. I did not have to start my wife’s car. Just connect. I thought that was odd.
screen turned on and now i am streaming, WiFi, Bluetooth, and my car is installing the latest upgrade. Like i said, i bought this car last August. I though streaming just took time. Now it is instant!
that’s my story. Now time to put the rest of this car back together! Thank you everyone for the help! Big shout out to Tony! 100% happy i did not call Tesla!
Trebek1762
Let's play jeopardy
did you reconnect the MCU and the fuse once the tegra was out? The first post states the DC/DC converter should keep the 12V charged if the MCU is re-installed...
I'm going to be trying to collect more information about the chips being sent to me. Now that I'm often getting newer chips I can check how used they are. For reference my 16 X with 180k miles, had a 90% used up emmc and not showing any signs of failure yet. One of my other recently recovered cars was a 15 with a bit over 90% used up chip showing lots of signs of failure, even the screen was blacked but the MCU was still partially booted up.
At least I will post notes of any insights I find to symptoms vs chip being used up.
Another interesting note, A friend recently purchased a 16X that had a dead battery for a while and around 10k miles. We found his eMMC was less than 30% used up. Looking healthy and performing well.
At least I will post notes of any insights I find to symptoms vs chip being used up.
Another interesting note, A friend recently purchased a 16X that had a dead battery for a while and around 10k miles. We found his eMMC was less than 30% used up. Looking healthy and performing well.
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Nope, these are both early AP1 16 X's Both built around the same time, one just had 180k miles less and a lot less hours on. The low mileage (10k) one was shut down for over a year. I'm really at the point to guide anyone who has a 16 or older car with original mcu that has been active to get upgraded.
These were both one owner cars that we had a lot of historic information also.
We welcome anyone with special cases that we can get more history from.
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We have starting collecting some additional information now since many of the failing chips are new enough to have the write info available.
Recently 2 of the 0'ed chips we were working on was around 2000, and 2500. We will continue to track this as it provides good insight into the difference of duration these eMMC's are lasting. These should be good for 3000 writes, but as you can see these 2 chips failed short of their expected life.
We also had a chip on the other side of the statics when 0'ed out. About 4000 writes!
Our recommendation is still as soon as you start seeing signs when you don't have warranty is the best time for replacement.
Recently 2 of the 0'ed chips we were working on was around 2000, and 2500. We will continue to track this as it provides good insight into the difference of duration these eMMC's are lasting. These should be good for 3000 writes, but as you can see these 2 chips failed short of their expected life.
We also had a chip on the other side of the statics when 0'ed out. About 4000 writes!
Our recommendation is still as soon as you start seeing signs when you don't have warranty is the best time for replacement.
Trebek1762
Let's play jeopardy
Mine is (was) at mid 1500s and showing signs...maps not drawing, no turn signal sounds, reboots everytime i got in the car. Green may be right that emmc from newer cars are getting stressed harder as FW sizes have increased.
IndyToronto
Member
I will share my own experience with what (presumably) was an eMMC failure.
By January of this year, I was experiencing garbage icons in audio apps, after a firmware update, the garbage icons actually stopped showing up. but there was a new problem. ODO reading (50k km - about 31k miles).
The LTE bar would drop to one (even when my phone showed 4-5) then the audio would freeze at least once a day in random geographic locations in random songs. It would recover within 2 minutes. The first report I placed around february booked a mobile technician visit in about a week. I received instructions to log each time I see a freeze within a couple of days, so I did exactly that for the next two days. I logged about 8 timestamps of freezing audio within a 48 hour period and the remote technician said : "Thanks, that's enough, we have enough to debug. Please don't send any more logs".
During the visit, the mobile technician opened the side mirror cover to check the LTE antenna --- they were fine. The final prognosis : it was just poor cell reception that caused the failures. There's nothing he can do --- recommendation : use the spotify app on phone and bluetooth to the car. I decided to live with the daily hangs in spotify as a quirk of the privillege of joining the longest most luxurious beta test of a technological marvel. (Oh what fun it was to be in a never ending beta test of an amazing toy).
During the covid-19 lockdown, there was only minimal travel for groceries and occasional food pickup, very little distance travelled in almost 2 months. Then last week, I noticed garbage icon in a spotify bar and garbage in a tile of a navigation map refresh. Then the Energy readings grew faulty and showed 0 km in the (last 50km wH/km). When the car was parked, I did a soft reboot (press both job wheels) until MCU goes dark. This time the MCU stayed dark. And it stayed black overnight, the next morning. It never came back on.
The service call was made and it was fast. I got a loaner model S. The drop off was contactless (because of new covid-19 protocols). Within a few hours, I had a first message that the MCU could not be brought up and a new one will arrive in about 7 days), then a second message the next day said they have an MCU and will replace. Within 48 hours of dropping off the car, the car was ready for pickup.
The pickup was also contactless, but there was a glitch as the technician forgot to reset or enable something and the doors would not unlock via the tesla app. It did not take long (about 30 minutes) to rectify this - but I had to wave through a window and find someone to take a look at it.
Overall it was a lot less problematic than I thought. Driving without the MCU was a hassle as the dashboard display switched from km to miles and there was no AC - windows still worked.
Note that with the replacement, all the settings were wiped out. The car's name, the homelink programming, all saved settings and addresses (driver profile, bluetooth, spotify account, home, office, good food), all gone. So spent some time to reprogram them all again.
With the replacement MCU, I hope the eMMC lasts a lot longer than the last one. What's the experience of others who had their MCU replaced? How long before it goes bad again? Presumably the new firmwares disabled the incessant logging of data and we'll get many more years of use out of the flash memory?
By January of this year, I was experiencing garbage icons in audio apps, after a firmware update, the garbage icons actually stopped showing up. but there was a new problem. ODO reading (50k km - about 31k miles).
The LTE bar would drop to one (even when my phone showed 4-5) then the audio would freeze at least once a day in random geographic locations in random songs. It would recover within 2 minutes. The first report I placed around february booked a mobile technician visit in about a week. I received instructions to log each time I see a freeze within a couple of days, so I did exactly that for the next two days. I logged about 8 timestamps of freezing audio within a 48 hour period and the remote technician said : "Thanks, that's enough, we have enough to debug. Please don't send any more logs".
During the visit, the mobile technician opened the side mirror cover to check the LTE antenna --- they were fine. The final prognosis : it was just poor cell reception that caused the failures. There's nothing he can do --- recommendation : use the spotify app on phone and bluetooth to the car. I decided to live with the daily hangs in spotify as a quirk of the privillege of joining the longest most luxurious beta test of a technological marvel. (Oh what fun it was to be in a never ending beta test of an amazing toy).
During the covid-19 lockdown, there was only minimal travel for groceries and occasional food pickup, very little distance travelled in almost 2 months. Then last week, I noticed garbage icon in a spotify bar and garbage in a tile of a navigation map refresh. Then the Energy readings grew faulty and showed 0 km in the (last 50km wH/km). When the car was parked, I did a soft reboot (press both job wheels) until MCU goes dark. This time the MCU stayed dark. And it stayed black overnight, the next morning. It never came back on.
The service call was made and it was fast. I got a loaner model S. The drop off was contactless (because of new covid-19 protocols). Within a few hours, I had a first message that the MCU could not be brought up and a new one will arrive in about 7 days), then a second message the next day said they have an MCU and will replace. Within 48 hours of dropping off the car, the car was ready for pickup.
The pickup was also contactless, but there was a glitch as the technician forgot to reset or enable something and the doors would not unlock via the tesla app. It did not take long (about 30 minutes) to rectify this - but I had to wave through a window and find someone to take a look at it.
Overall it was a lot less problematic than I thought. Driving without the MCU was a hassle as the dashboard display switched from km to miles and there was no AC - windows still worked.
Note that with the replacement, all the settings were wiped out. The car's name, the homelink programming, all saved settings and addresses (driver profile, bluetooth, spotify account, home, office, good food), all gone. So spent some time to reprogram them all again.
With the replacement MCU, I hope the eMMC lasts a lot longer than the last one. What's the experience of others who had their MCU replaced? How long before it goes bad again? Presumably the new firmwares disabled the incessant logging of data and we'll get many more years of use out of the flash memory?
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The new one should last longer since Tesla has changed the way logging works, However we have notice not all chips run all the way until end of life (3000 write) and some chips so far have died around 1/2 to 1/3 normal life expected left. We have seen chips last 2-8 years maybe a little longer, but we dont suggest people waiting till total failure. Our replacement will last about 14x longer so we plan for it to be the last chip.
We are starting to see more and more 16's fail. Too bad they didnt tell you how worn the chip was. It might be in their logs.
Another thumbs up for the emmc replacement services mentioned here. All went smoothly and took less than a week in total. The video from Electrified Garage linked above makes the MCU removal straightforward as does TonyT’s video on opening the MCU in the first post. The Tegra board fits nicely in a USPS small flat rate box.
I did not reinstall my MCU while waiting for the Tegra board and my 12V battery was down to 3 volts in a couple days - so you really do need to keep it on a slow charger.
While the MCU was out I really wanted to upgrade the modem to LTE but neither the service center near TonyT nor Sunnyvale near me would sell the LTE modem anymore. Tesla now insists on installing the modem which normally consists of half an hour of labor to remove the dash, an hour to install the modem in the MCU and half an hour to reassemble the dash. The SC manager wanted to see my MCU running in the car but since I still had the interior out he agreed to only charge me for the hour of labor to put the modem in the MCU, which saved me a couple hundred bucks ($314 including parts vs ~$550).
Our Model S is a 2014 with 75k mikes and the MCU was still functioning OK but since we aren’t driving a lot right now I thought it was a good time to do this preventatively.
I did not reinstall my MCU while waiting for the Tegra board and my 12V battery was down to 3 volts in a couple days - so you really do need to keep it on a slow charger.
While the MCU was out I really wanted to upgrade the modem to LTE but neither the service center near TonyT nor Sunnyvale near me would sell the LTE modem anymore. Tesla now insists on installing the modem which normally consists of half an hour of labor to remove the dash, an hour to install the modem in the MCU and half an hour to reassemble the dash. The SC manager wanted to see my MCU running in the car but since I still had the interior out he agreed to only charge me for the hour of labor to put the modem in the MCU, which saved me a couple hundred bucks ($314 including parts vs ~$550).
Our Model S is a 2014 with 75k mikes and the MCU was still functioning OK but since we aren’t driving a lot right now I thought it was a good time to do this preventatively.
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