TMC is an independent, primarily volunteer organization that relies on ad revenue to cover its operating costs. Please consider whitelisting TMC on your ad blocker and becoming a Supporting Member. For more info: Support TMC
  1. TMC is currently READ ONLY.
    Click here for more info.

Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)

Discussion in 'Model S' started by Wiki, Jan 8, 2020.

Thread Status:
The first post in this thread is a WikiPost, and can be edited by anyone with the appropriate permissions.
  1. whitex

    whitex Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Messages:
    6,361
    Location:
    Seattle area, WA
    Yea, check out the threads on MCU2 upgrade for more details, but so far I know MCU1 is missing at least visualizations showing things like traffic cones, traffic lights, etc. MCU1 EAP description always said the "driver is responsible for remaining in control of the car at all times", so I would argue knowing whether or not the car is aware of surrounding objects via visualizations is helpful to supervise the system as it automatically changes lanes, transition between freeways or exits freeways (all without driver input as per 2016 EAP description). It basically looks like Tesla stopped adding EAP/FSD related features to MCU1/IC1 at some point.
     
  2. CravingMender9

    Joined:
    May 13, 2019
    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    2014 MS 85. Absolutely no symptoms at all, and suddenly, *poof*! Center screen is black. Tesla (at Charlotte) has 2-3 weeks backlog. Wk057 has at least a week and half backlog and needs the car there for a couple of days. The app is talking with the car and able to open trunk / frunk. But not able to do anything else (lock / unlock, climate, set charge limit above previously set 70% etc.). I'll be removing the Tegra board today to prevent further wear.

    I can remove the Tegra board myself, but need help with the chip replacement. Is there anyone else on the east coast that can do the eMMC replacement quickly? If not, @EV-Fixme / @appleguru Can I reach out to one of you to help me with this? Since you are in the west coast, just wanted to understand the lead times as this is my daily driver :-(

    Thank you.

    Also, wife thinks I broke it since it was working yesterday night. o_O
     
  3. EV-Fixme

    EV-Fixme Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2019
    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Correct, late last year tesla changed the logging to be active only when car is on. That will help from the logging aspect, however old writes are done, damage is done, life expectancy was decreased.

    Replacement chips are expected to last much longer do the extra writes available, higher temp rating, and the reduced logging.
     
    • Informative x 1
  4. EV-Fixme

    EV-Fixme Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2019
    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    We turn around in 5 working days faster if we can, express options available to ensure speed, and can ship at faster speeds if you want. Feel free to PM us for more details.
     
  5. CravingMender9

    Joined:
    May 13, 2019
    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Thank you. Sent PM.
     
  6. CravingMender9

    Joined:
    May 13, 2019
    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Way to disappoint @tesla LOL!

    I had put in the request to have a paper trail just in case NHTSA comes up with a recall / refund. The appointment was for 30th July.
    Already sent the Tegra to @appleguru for fixing, and hopefully if all goes well, I should have a working car next week itself.

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like x 1
    • Funny x 1
  7. Solarman004

    Solarman004 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2016
    Messages:
    741
    Location:
    Colorado
    #727 Solarman004, Jul 9, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
    I thought I would post this while still fresh in my mind. After reading so many posts of failed eMMC cards, I decided to act preemptively on my 2016 MX 75D (AP1, MCU1) and remove my eMMC card for Tony to upgrade. The final straw for me was reading @ohmman ‘s MCU failure saga while on a camper towing vacation.

    David and Tony’s videos on post #1 are fantastic, but they are done on an MS 85. There are some differences on the MX as I found out today while removing my eMMC card. So below are my observations. I can only claim that they apply to an Aug 2016 MX build and have no idea if anything has changed in later models. My comments are organized by the time stamps on David’s YouTube video, “How to Remove the MCU from a Tesla Model S/X”

    Initial Recommendation: Because further below you’ll see I recommend disconnecting the 12 V battery, take these steps first, in addition to all the prep items Tony lists on Post #1:

    - lower the front windows. After 12 V is disconnected the windows will not auto-lower to clear the trim. Plus, with no 12 V, the exterior door handles will not work and you will need to reach inside for the mechanical latch.

    - Open the frunk, and stuff a rag in the latch so that it won’t accidentally be re-locked.

    2:40 There are no key FOB antennae on either end cap cover.

    3:16 This screw under the steering wheel does not exist in the MX. There is a protruding pin in the frame which catches a notch in the cover. The pin does not have to be removed. Just push forward slightly on the plastic cover at the base to release the notch from the pin.

    9:56 There is no bottom screw on the MX.

    10:39 There is only one fuse box under the hood, but the MCU fuse is not in there. The MX does not have the red fuse box shown in the video. There is a second fuse box in the cabin to the right of the accelerator pedal, behind the carpeted vertical panel of the center console (see my photo). This cover is a son-of-a-gun to get off. It is held in place by clips only but it’s hard to get the correct angle to pull it off. I recommend starting at the rear of the panel and working forward to the accelerator. The black and white fuse box diagram Tony provides on post 1 of this Wiki matches the MX fuse box and shows the location of fuse F235. Inside the box is mounted a fuse puller for removing the micro-fuses so you don’t need any tools for this.

    Some additional recommendations: 1) power down the vehicle using the center display and while standing outside the car (no pressure on the seat). Then pull out the fuse making sure you don’t depress the brake pedal, 2) after pulling the MCU fuse F235, the center display did not turn on when re-entering the car, as expected, but there were still LEDs illuminated in the back of the MCU rack indicating certain components were still powered up. So before removing the numerous connectors behind the MCU, I removed the frunk liner, tub, and air filter to expose the 12 V battery, and disconnected the negative lead.

    10:49 The MX has a grounding wire at the top of the MCU. Remove this before unscrewing the T-25 torx screws holding the MCU. The ground wire connection is a simple slide on connector with no tab.

    14:21 The MX does not have the external Bluetooth antenna.

    16:09 The MX only used Torx 8 (no Torx 6) for the screws holding the eMMC card.



    @EV-Fixme (Tony) If you think the above might be valuable, I recommend you include them as an addendum to Post #1 of this Wiki.

    Finally, let me say that Tony and David’s instructions and videos are outstanding and were a huge help.

    Edit: forgot to add the photo.
    IMG_20200709_151113399.jpg
     
    • Informative x 5
    • Like x 1
  8. odguy

    odguy Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Is pulling the fuse necessary if disconnecting the battery?
     
  9. Solarman004

    Solarman004 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2016
    Messages:
    741
    Location:
    Colorado
    Probably not but I had already pulled the fuse before realizing some of the circuit boards were still powered up.
     
  10. TonyT

    TonyT Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    823
    Location:
    Orange county, CA
    Fuse pull is for those who don't want to disconnect the battery. If you disconnect the battery, also disconnect the fireman's loop. The X I feel is much easier to disconnect the battery and loop, the frunk is pretty easy to take out compared to the fuse box carpeting over the box.
     
  11. TonyT

    TonyT Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Messages:
    823
    Location:
    Orange county, CA
    Actually...… We just saw a car that hat T6 screws securing the back end of the board where we have always seen T8 screws. This was a 2017 car, so who knows what might be there, because knowing consistency is not there...

    Thanks for the info I have linked your post!

    And glad the video is helpful. Once we have some time we will try to work on a X video also.
     
  12. CravingMender9

    Joined:
    May 13, 2019
    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    BTW, I finally received a quote from Tesla for reman MCU1 just now: $1098.75 + tax.
    That is one of the lowest that I've seen till now. Though I'm sure it'll just be the same old eMMC, and has a 3 week wait time.
     
    • Informative x 2
    • Like x 1
  13. viper2ko

    viper2ko Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2017
    Messages:
    1,400
    Location:
    USA
    Thats not bad if someone isn't comfortable removing the MCU. But at that rate, spend an extra $1000 and get mcu2 without the new screen
     
    • Like x 2
  14. Solarman004

    Solarman004 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2016
    Messages:
    741
    Location:
    Colorado
    Yes. Here's a photo. This is on the right side of the frunk just under the passenger windshield wiper. One tab holds the loop in the socket and it is removed very easily.
    IMG_20200710_204515005.jpg
     
    • Like x 1
  15. Pombocom

    Pombocom New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2020
    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Carrollton, Texas
    Does anyone know of someone in the Dallas -FT. Worth area that would complete or help me to complete a preventative chip replacement on my MCU1?
     
  16. ohmman

    ohmman Plaid-ish Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2014
    Messages:
    9,876
    Location:
    North Bay, CA
    My MCU failed on a recent towing/camping trip.

    I'm on the fence about what to do. I planned to upgrade my X this year anyway (for more towing range). If Tesla actually gave reasonable trade-in values, I'd trade in for the new one and let them deal with it. But having them replace with an MCU1, then selling it to some poor fool who will be stuck with the issue eventually.. that doesn't sit well with me. Third party replacement is an option, but since mine is entirely dead, it reads as if it's possible I may permanently lose app control, which would be terrible and would make it unmarketable for the most part.

    What a mess.
     
    • Informative x 1
  17. Solarman004

    Solarman004 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2016
    Messages:
    741
    Location:
    Colorado
    @ohmman , glad to hear you made it home safely, but I feel bad for your predicament.
    Changing out the eMMC is a roll of dice on whether you lose app access. But if it works, you're back up and running in about a week and you can take your time deciding on a trade-in.
    Trading in now, as is, might be the safest option, but your trade-in will be decremented $1100 to $1300 for the repair, if Tesla will even take it as is.
    I have to agree with you on option 3: wait for an MCU1 replacement from Tesla. Paying $1100+ for a replacement that will only have a 4 year MTBF does not seem to be viable. At least with Tony's 32 GB upgrade, if you haven't lost app access, you are better than new with a 20-year MCU.
    Good luck.
     
    • Helpful x 1
  18. Wratran

    Wratran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2019
    Messages:
    331
    Location:
    Dallas
    How much is emmc chip replacement?
     
  19. Akikiki

    Akikiki A'-Lo-HA ! y'all

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2012
    Messages:
    6,275
    Location:
    Kaneohe, HI
    I agree with @Solarman004 reference the trade in. You likely don't know about a recent change. Those MCU1 re-manufactured after early May contain a different quality and size eMMC than before. Now its larger and formatted for 32 GB. Its expected to last more than 10 years vice the previous 4-5 years worser case. So, if you fix it, you are not passing a car with the same eMMC life expectancy as before. Just make sure (I guess by waiting for exhausted supply of pre-May) unit and get a more recent one.
     
    • Helpful x 1
    • Informative x 1
  20. Akikiki

    Akikiki A'-Lo-HA ! y'all

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2012
    Messages:
    6,275
    Location:
    Kaneohe, HI
    Depends on where you have it done. Tesla out of warranty repair will be about $1300 with screen plus labor and tax.
    3rd Party repair shops will change depending on what they have to do. Simply repair the Tegra board you remove and take to them somewhere around $600-700. If they have to remove it, they charge to disassemble the dash, disassemble the MCU, fix, reassemble the MCU and re-install it in the car and trim.

    FYI, I've not seen a report of anyone in the Dallas area that is a 3rd party fixer or will remove your Tegra board.
     
Thread Status:
The first post in this thread is a WikiPost, and can be edited by anyone with the appropriate permissions.

Share This Page

  • About Us

    Formed in 2006, Tesla Motors Club (TMC) was the first independent online Tesla community. Today it remains the largest and most dynamic community of Tesla enthusiasts. Learn more.
  • Do you value your experience at TMC? Consider becoming a Supporting Member of Tesla Motors Club. As a thank you for your contribution, you'll get nearly no ads in the Community and Groups sections. Additional perks are available depending on the level of contribution. Please visit the Account Upgrades page for more details.


    SUPPORT TMC