-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
The problem is that your account is too new, or has too few posts, to be able to PM anyone.
Thank you MP3Mike, no one mentioned any requirement for age of account or number of posts to enable the PM function. I did start a conversation with TonyT earlier this evening, but he has not yet responded. AND I did not know I would need help with an electronics problem so soon after buying a 2013 Model S (May 7, 2020). And the Tesla Service Center only 5 miles from my house was not helpful at all (due to registration issues relating to Covid-19 and my county registration office being closed).
Picked up my upgraded eMMc earlier and reinstalled everything. Up and running now, thanks Tony & Eddie for the great work.
Nov'17 75D, still under warranty with Pin-to-Drive enabled. Blank center screen. Couldn't drive car.
I disconnected high voltage first responder loop, then 12V battery. Reconnected 12V battery and first responder loop. Car could still not drive.
I left the car, called Tesla Roadside Assistance and explained the situation. The representative tried to access the car and said that she got a message "Could not authenticate - remote not inside car." I explained I was outside the car - I got in and suddenly I car was drivable - except center screen was still blank.
Hope this helps someone. Looks like I was able to get the car to a drivable state even with the "Pin-To-Drive" enabled. Something happened to make the car drivable - my bet is on the Tesla system access. The rep said she didn't do anything to reset the system but sometimes accessing the system on their end can clear up some errant behavior that drivers see.
I disconnected high voltage first responder loop, then 12V battery. Reconnected 12V battery and first responder loop. Car could still not drive.
I left the car, called Tesla Roadside Assistance and explained the situation. The representative tried to access the car and said that she got a message "Could not authenticate - remote not inside car." I explained I was outside the car - I got in and suddenly I car was drivable - except center screen was still blank.
Hope this helps someone. Looks like I was able to get the car to a drivable state even with the "Pin-To-Drive" enabled. Something happened to make the car drivable - my bet is on the Tesla system access. The rep said she didn't do anything to reset the system but sometimes accessing the system on their end can clear up some errant behavior that drivers see.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Nice to re-connect with you again. You helped me with the dashcam install, and I dropped off this forum because life got too busy. Yes, still a dead screen. I'll work with Tesla since it should be under warranty, but fully expect that I will need to use a third party service at some point in the future. Thing is, I can't schedule a service center visit, so I will need to walk-in on Monday and hope for the best. I expect it will take a good amount of time for the part to be available. Luckily I haven't been driving much since remote work is possible.
The first thing I did was to drive the car out and reposition it so it could be towed out of the garage if it becomes undrivable and can't get on tow mode. Previously it was parked too close the wall of the garage so getting the tires on a dolly would be tough.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@bayareadriver, yes, I am sorry to say, afraid so for you, the wait is bad. One option you might want to consider is the MCU2 Upgrade. On your year car, for the price, you car will literally become a new car - or equal to one. You will capitalize on all those cameras yourself that the car currently uses. I sincerely mean it when I say its worth it even if MCU1 and MCU2 parts arrived at the same time. Yes, even though I know you are still under warranty. Hope it works out for you. Keep us in the loop. We are all family here 
After replacing my 12v, the 12v warning light stayed on for a while - just got around to resetting that with the change wheel setting / hard restart trick - which allowed for the 2020.20.1 upgrade - following this both the Wi-Fi and BT will not initialize - in reading here I assume this could be caused by some bad writes to the eMMC? I am in the bayarea - I am ok removing myself but it mentioned there is some help if I reach out - is that still the case? else I am ok removing mailing - I assume that is still the method being used?
I took my 2015 S85D to Tesla service for warranty repair for a black touchscreen. Instead of replacing the MCU with a refurbished one, they ordered a Tegra daughterboard. This being a newly serviceable part, they did not know when they would be available. They were able to restore files on my original MCU and get it running again.
I worry that it will stop working while I am on a road trip, and I will sleep much better after the Tegra daughterboard is replaced. Does anyone have any info on when they will be available at Tesla service centers?
Thanks,
GSP
I worry that it will stop working while I am on a road trip, and I will sleep much better after the Tegra daughterboard is replaced. Does anyone have any info on when they will be available at Tesla service centers?
Thanks,
GSP
No info, sorry. This is an extended warranty service with $200 deductible.
I am hoping Tesla is gearing up to build a batch of new replacement daughterboards with more robust eMMC chips. Who knows, but in the meantime I can hope.
GSP
I dropped off my 2015 S85D this morning for out of warranty repair(107k miles) of a dead touchscreen. Shortly after I made the appointment last Friday I got a text showing they had ordered the Tegra daughterboard. No indication as of when that part will be available or the cost. I have a loaner and am waiting to hear back from the SC. Of course, the screen failed when I was driving to our lake home last Thursday evening so the last 100 miles of our drive was without any HVAC, radio, or anything else controlled by the touchscreen. I drove it back this morning the 139 miles but at least the weather was much cooler.
Im having the same consumption problem. But it started happening after a software update. Is this another sign the MCU is going or a true software problem??
Similar threads
