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Wiki Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)

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I'm starting a new thread with all the important information up top to make it easier for people and links to all the important threads. I will be maintaining information on this page to make it easy for people to find all the info without having to read 100's of posts.

Signs of failure:
· Center display (MCU) is black and wont power on
· Bluetooth connection drops
· 3G/LTE connection lost frequently where signal should be good
· Maps drawing slow
· Nav warning of no traffic data, when you can see your connected to internet
· MCU unresponsive
· MCU reboot randomly
· Stuttering streaming music (cached on eMMC)
· Stuttering AM/FM radio
· Age, the eMMC has a finite amounts of writes available (3000 cycles)
· MCU needs reboot daily to function without crashing
· Radio pausing every few seconds
· Voice command failing to work
· Browser not working
· Bluetooth and wifi not working together

First thing to do, before anything else, if your seeing signs of failure, remove USB stick you may have for music or video storage. I've read reports of people not being able to boot up properly with USB stick in.

Preparation for repair:
· Remove PIN2Drive
· Remove charging schedules
· Set IC (instrument cluster) screen to comfortable brightness for night a daytime use.
· Set headlights on auto
· Charge your car up to 80-90%
· Test you can charge and SuperCharge before shipping your eMMC in the mail. (We have seen a couple cars that can only charge to 21% battery then stop charging.)
· Remove Charging limits
· If you have any issues, contact us before send a Tegra.

Removal Process:
· Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1 Has video with good information how to remove MCU from dash, special note about the ic screws
o Most of the screws on the dash are T20, the 4 securing the MCU are T25
· Replacing instrument cluster This ic removal thread helps you safely open dash to access MCU minimizing chance of aluminum trim damage.
· Opening the MCU
(video is about LTE upgrade but Tegra is right next to it)
· Special tools you may need:
o Micro Torx set with sizes t6-9 (most likely used in the mcu)
o Inflating air tool to prevent dash damage
· Cover the aluminum dash trim with masking tape.
· Fold a towel to and place over the vent behind the aluminum to help prevent scratching the dash aluminum
· Completed LED Headlight Retrofit & My P85 Build Thread Great trim removal details!
· Another video to come soon!
· Roll down your windows! If you remove all power you won't be able to get into the car from the outside easily. Just in case you accidentally close a door. Also prevents glass and trim damage if someone opens door while battery is removed.
· Have a 12v battery tender on hand as it might be a few days while the eMMC cards get shipped around (connect this to charge the battery while you work on removing the MCU, 2 post behind the nose cone of the car. Look for the red and black, tesla moved things around at least once so verify color
· Don't work on any electronics on carpet or anything that can make static. ESD mat for grounding is recommended
· Have anti-static bags to ship the Tegra chip with (We received one without a anti-static bag and nothing was recoverable, not sure if related, but don't risk it)
· Remove fuse 51 for classic cars View attachment 505023 By wipers, need to remove cover in frunk
· Remove fuse F235 View attachment 505022 Next to kick panel on right side, need to remove door sill plate.
· Contact me for additional documentation for removal if needed
· Remove 6 T20 screws to remove aluminum trim around MCU
· Remove 12 T25 screws to remove the LCD from frame
o Remove the 3 connections from screen to main board (open very carefully looking inside, best to have help)
o Big Black plug with 10 wires, press the black clip and pull the plug
o Small ribbon cable, pull up the black connector and flip back then gently remove cable
o Big ribbon cable, press the black tab in the middle and slide the cable out with the connector
· Remove 4 small torx screws on the Tegra board (need micro torx from lowes or similar kit, sizes can be different so be super careful checking fit)
· Leave heat sink on and send us the board
· Connect ribbons back and replace screws, and put mcu back in dash. 4 screws will secure it
· I recommend putting all the panels and dash back in. You will have to remove everything again to put tegra back in. I leave it, but do so at your own risk and don’t follow my bad example.

While your eMMC is dead or being replaced: *(foot note below)
· Drive after a 30 second timeout
· No controlling suspension height
· No manual control of headlight lights
· No blinker sounds
· Steering mode defaults to some setting (e.g. if I have it set to sport, during reboot of MCU is changes to standard or comfort, not sure but I can feel the steering wheel take less effort to turn than my normal sport mode)
· No HVAC (heat, cool, vent)
· No defrosters
· No seat heaters
· No steering wheel heaters
· No radio/streaming
· No app connectivity to control the car
· No ability to see the car charge status from app
· Trip A/B
· Profiles
· User Settings
· Homelink
· Bluetooth pairings
· No rear view camera
· Metric areas may have speed shown in MPH and not KPH so be careful
· Do to a few strange reported charging issues, be CAREFUL driving beyond the ability to get home without charging, (range) since I have seen a car that continued to get less max available range in capacity (Still monitoring the issue)

While your eMMC is being replaced: *(foot note below)
· Once MCU is replaced you will be able to start your car
· Drive after a 30 second timeout
· Roll down windows
· Lock and unlock doors, frunk, and trunk via keyfob
· SuperCharge if you have free SuperCharge (IC wont should rate, but range will increase quickly)
· AC charge at very slow rate of 2kWH
· Metric areas may have speed shown in MPH and not KPH so be careful
· 12 V socket does not have power
· USB ports do not have power

If your eMMC is corrupt and fails to be recovered, you may lose the following permanently, with most features working again after owner sets once repaired, or wait too long and there is too much corruption:
· No app connectivity to control the car (this may be permanent)
· Trip A/B history
· Profiles previously stored
· User Settings previously stored
· Homelink previously stored
· Bluetooth pairings previously stored

Threads with lots of info:
Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1
Preventative eMMC Repair - options
Likely MCU Failure (MCU1 eMMC)
It's too late, my MCU1 Died....
21% SOC - Charging complete - Limited - After MCU died
Successful data recovery of broken eMMC chip MCU1 The hardest most expensive recovery (this is why you dont want to wait)

PM first couple people (but not wiki, we don't think wiki assist's with this) in the thread if you need more info about the tools needed, I don't think I'm allowed to post links to products.

Replacement part numbers

Screws holding MCU to dash Quantity 4
Part: BLT,PFLG,TRX,M5x25[08.8]-05
Part Number: 1008884-00-C

Screws holding screen to MCU Quantity 12
Part: SCR,M5X6.PH.TRX25.SST.W/PATCH
Part number: 1010058-00-A

* We are still collecting data on car usage without functional mcu (both blackened/tegra removed.) We will continue to collect and post information here so people have a central location for the info. AFAIK Service Centers have told people to continue driving their car to the SC when requesting blacked mcu repair. Do to that fact, and us knowing the car will allow you to drive we have collected this information. We do not endorse driving with the mcu black, one should do so at their own risk. Vehicle driving is dangerous at all times. We recommend driving safely at all times regardless the MCU is functional or not.

Fellow MS owners with the MCU failure. Would you do this fat dad a solid? File a complaint with the NHTSA. The MCU dying isn’t just an inconvenience, it presents multiple safety issues, especially if you end up stranded out of town because of charging issues, but the backup camera, all alarms/alert audio are diminished, and frankly, those are important safety systems.

agree with me? Sweet, go here and file away fellow chariot of charge owners?
You can do that here: File a Vehicle Safety Complaint | Safercar.gov | NHTSA
 
Fellow MS owners with the MCU failure. Would you do this fat dad a solid? File a complaint with the NHTSA. The MCU dying isn’t just an inconvenience, it presents multiple safety issues, especially if you end up stranded out of town because of charging issues, but the backup camera, all alarms/alert audio are diminished, and frankly, those are important safety systems.

agree with me? Sweet, go here and file away fellow chariot of charge owners?
You can do that here: File a Vehicle Safety Complaint | Safercar.gov | NHTSA
Something about this fat dad doesn’t make sense. Member since Monday. 6 posts, all on this. Has a Tesla with failed eMMC which he claims is just sitting because he won’t pay to repair. Instead, seeking class action litigants and others to gripe to NHTSA so an authority will force Tesla will cover repair... years from now if at all. Agitator or very confused owner?
 
Which is strange because current Model S and X do have the new features.

Someone that has DIY'ed the upgrade says that keeping AM/FM/XM requires replacing the tuner modules which is a PIA and takes a couple extra hours. So Tesla probably decided to just skip the tuner upgrade to keep the price down. (Would you pay $3,100 if you got to keep the tuner functionality?)
 
More information from Electrek... Tesla officially starts offering $2,500 infotainment upgrade - Electrek

The upgrade costs $2,500 (plus applicable tax including installation), but owners cannot request it right now. Only people Tesla is itself reaching out to will be offered the upgrade, starting with people who have Autopilot 2.5 hardware and the Full Self-Driving package, and then they will expand to others: Configuration Beginning Availability
  • Autopilot Computer 2.5 with Full Self-Driving Capability - Scheduling Now
  • Autopilot Computer 2.0 with Full Self-Driving Capability - Late March
  • All remaining Model S and Model X owners - Early April
 
Someone that has DIY'ed the upgrade says that keeping AM/FM/XM requires replacing the tuner modules which is a PIA and takes a couple extra hours. So Tesla probably decided to just skip the tuner upgrade to keep the price down. (Would you pay $3,100 if you got to keep the tuner functionality?)

From another post (diff thread I think) with similar info:
kdday, Today at 8:18 PM

Mcu2 has a new Ethernet based tuner that physically fits in the same slot as the mcu1 analog based tuner. It requires new wiring which is just two wires for power/ground, and a twisted pair for Ethernet to mcu2. It's simple to conceptually retrofit, but rather bothersome to physically remove the old one and install the new one.

It took me a few hours of yelling and cursing, plus two bandaids, to get the tuner swapped out. I'm sure that's why tesla isn't doing it for retrofits.
 
Tesla has come up with an upgrade plan whereby they will replace the MCU1 (Media Control Unit) and IC1 (the binnacle display screen) with an MCU2 and an IC2 for a fee of $2,500 USD. Apparently according to this article: Tesla Offers Model S & X Owners Infotainment System Upgrade For $2,500 | CleanTechnica Tesla will then start charging $120 USD per annum for those without 'premium connectivity'.
"Note: Some features enabled by the Infotainment Upgrade require a Premium Connectivity subscription of $9.99 per month plus applicable tax. You may already have Premium Connectivity. Confirm your status in your Tesla Account."
Try as I might I can find no indication as to whether I have 'premium connectivity' or not when I log into my Tesla account (It's a 2015 70D with tech package). Please someone tell me where I might find that.
As someone with no interest in any of the goodies this will enable I'm not real keen (particularly as this will remove AM and FM radio), I just want a more durable flash memory chip (which I'm hoping will be included in the upgrade).
 
The screen page you are looking for us under your Tesla Account > Manage.
Did you buy your car new? If yes, then you have lifetime premium connectivity for that car. Applies to new purchases, (maybe it was orders) until 1 Jul '18.
Did you buy your car after (I think it was) 1 Jan '19, then you will not get free premium connectivity.
 
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The screen page you are looking for us under your Tesla Account > Manage.
Did you buy your car new? If yes, then you have lifetime premium connectivity for that car. Applies to new purchases, (maybe it was orders) until 1 Jul '18.
Did you buy your car after (I think it was) 1 Jan '19, then you will not get free premium connectivity.
The screen page you are looking for us under your Tesla Account > Manage.
Did you buy your car new? If yes, then you have lifetime premium connectivity for that car. Applies to new purchases, (maybe it was orders) until 1 Jul '18.
Did you buy your car after (I think it was) 1 Jan '19, then you will not get free premium connectivity.
I did buy the car new in September 2015.
Thank you for the clue as to where to find out if my car has premium connectivity, it is not mentioned in 'vehicle configuration' but perhaps that was not a thing they mentioned back in 2015.
Many thanks.
 
Hi folks,

I’ve got a 2016 bis CPO model S with about 48,000 miles. My MCU has gone dark over the weekend, and it has me trapped in Chicago until Monday morning - I need to get back to MN. Unfortunately there weren’t obvious signs, and I didn’t turn off Pin2Drive; had I done so, I might have been able to put the car into drive without my mcu- alas

I’m thankful for the bank of information here. It’s helpful to know I’m not alone in 2020/2019, and that the issue hasn’t all disappeared. I’m adding my information as a data point. I’ll follow up once the service center gives me information.

I suppose I don’t know yet whether it’s the emmc or something else. I do know that the mobile app doesn’t pick up the car, emergency roadside couldn’t access the car remotely, center screen is completely non responsive even after attempts to reboot with the scroll wheels, summon doesn’t engage when holding the keyfob, and so on.

I do have a dashcam hooked up through the outlet above the rearview mirror. Should I unplug it to keep the 12v battery safe?

my hopes:
1. That there isn’t a long wait time for the part(s)
2. That the issue is completely covered by warranty
3. That there’s an option to upgrade directly to mcu2 either for free or for a modest price

I’m concerned about the lack of transparency on the topic. I can’t really tell how pervasive an issue this is, but it seems common enough for this fine sub-community of posters to exist. I wish that Tesla would acknowledge the situation and set our minds at ease. I mean- when folks acquire a used car and they can’t evaluate whether it’s in good shape, or when you get it from Tesla cpo or new and there’s no explicit recognition that there’s a part that’s likely to fail, it’s just hard to plan ahead. A person is just supposed to guess whether their mcu will cut out when they’re driving an older vehicle? This is my first car, but I imagine with other cars two things are possible: (1) there are more easily recognizable signs for key components that are soon to fail, (2) if a key component on a more common car goes bad while traveling, there is likely a marketplace of competent mechanics who can offer service - whereas with a Tesla we are reliant on Tesla and a small but growing network of individuals doing the lord’s work and fixing out of warranty cars.

I don’t mean to whine, but I do want to develop my sense and expectations for what it’s reasonable to anticipate from Tesla or any other automaker. Of course nothing lasts forever; of course car components fail at some point. But should I think, “of course this component of my car, which is central to normal function and designed to be used such a way that it is likely to fail before anything else, will fail and of course the typical consumer won’t know why it’s failed, when it’ll fail, how to prevent it from failing, and may be stuck in any number of inconvenient circumstances all without any kind of intelligible warning”. Is that normal?

Anyway, I’ll follow up once I hear from Tesla - in case anyone is interested in whether mcu2 is available for this kind of repair and so on.
 
Hi folks,

I’ve got a 2016 bis CPO model S with about 48,000 miles. My MCU has gone dark over the weekend, and it has me trapped in Chicago until Monday morning - I need to get back to MN. Unfortunately there weren’t obvious signs, and I didn’t turn off Pin2Drive; had I done so, I might have been able to put the car into drive without my mcu- alas

I’m thankful for the bank of information here. It’s helpful to know I’m not alone in 2020/2019, and that the issue hasn’t all disappeared. I’m adding my information as a data point. I’ll follow up once the service center gives me information.

I suppose I don’t know yet whether it’s the emmc or something else. I do know that the mobile app doesn’t pick up the car, emergency roadside couldn’t access the car remotely, center screen is completely non responsive even after attempts to reboot with the scroll wheels, summon doesn’t engage when holding the keyfob, and so on.

I do have a dashcam hooked up through the outlet above the rearview mirror. Should I unplug it to keep the 12v battery safe?

my hopes:
1. That there isn’t a long wait time for the part(s)
2. That the issue is completely covered by warranty
3. That there’s an option to upgrade directly to mcu2 either for free or for a modest price

I’m concerned about the lack of transparency on the topic. I can’t really tell how pervasive an issue this is, but it seems common enough for this fine sub-community of posters to exist. I wish that Tesla would acknowledge the situation and set our minds at ease. I mean- when folks acquire a used car and they can’t evaluate whether it’s in good shape, or when you get it from Tesla cpo or new and there’s no explicit recognition that there’s a part that’s likely to fail, it’s just hard to plan ahead. A person is just supposed to guess whether their mcu will cut out when they’re driving an older vehicle? This is my first car, but I imagine with other cars two things are possible: (1) there are more easily recognizable signs for key components that are soon to fail, (2) if a key component on a more common car goes bad while traveling, there is likely a marketplace of competent mechanics who can offer service - whereas with a Tesla we are reliant on Tesla and a small but growing network of individuals doing the lord’s work and fixing out of warranty cars.

I don’t mean to whine, but I do want to develop my sense and expectations for what it’s reasonable to anticipate from Tesla or any other automaker. Of course nothing lasts forever; of course car components fail at some point. But should I think, “of course this component of my car, which is central to normal function and designed to be used such a way that it is likely to fail before anything else, will fail and of course the typical consumer won’t know why it’s failed, when it’ll fail, how to prevent it from failing, and may be stuck in any number of inconvenient circumstances all without any kind of intelligible warning”. Is that normal?

Anyway, I’ll follow up once I hear from Tesla - in case anyone is interested in whether mcu2 is available for this kind of repair and so on.

If your under warranty you should be covered. They may reload firmware to get you going again, typically replacement is only after mcu fails to restart after they attempt to restore it (its on it's final breaths) It's most likely the emmc.

I think PIN 2 drive is blocking everything? Can you summon without PIN? I have never used summon or PIN2Drive. Your 12V should continue to charge fine.

The eMMC does wear out over time. It's hard for new owners to identify the signs. Tesla does not offer preventive maintenance for this. 3rd party repair is only way to preventive take care of this.
 
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