Actually.... T on one of our cars...
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Actually.... T on one of our cars...
Of course not all revisions are to improve longevity. Some are to simplify, reduce costs, or improve performance.
Knightowl
Whovian
If out of warranty I say either pull the mcu or setup a ranger appt to come pull it for you and mail off the board with the emmc to @EV-Fixme in CA, it was pretty quick with a couple days to get there then 3days to fix and a couple days to get back to me in the post. We have no one local able to do this, only other option is to pay tesla to replace mcu with like for like that will fail again in the same way and likely same amount of time.
I chose to wait for a ranger appt to do the reinstall and 3g to LTE upgrade at the same time to be the most cost effective use of tesla time so pretty much just paying for the standard LTE upgrade from them as the work they did was no different than would have been done for it just split into 2 appts instead of 1.
Added benefits of early maintenance to first post, and reminder to those that are new to this thread, all the info is updated and available on the first post so you dont have to read 44 pages.
We have a Sept 2017, model X. In early 2020, the MCU was retrofitted with the Hardware 3 version. Is the eMMC also upgraded and to what level if so. Originally the car had Hardware 2.5. Were Hardware 2,5s using 32 GB chips.
I have been skimming through the thread and not noticed if this is an old question. Thank you
There is no hardware 3 version of the MCU.
you can find your mcu version -
settings -> software -> additional vehicle info
(just under the vin)
infotainment processor will tell you what you have. NVIDIA is MCU1.
It's a Nvida Tegra. Also noted 'Full Self-driving computer"
What eMMC goes with this package? Thanks,
eMMC is part of the MCU. (Unrelated to AP2/AP2.5/AP3(FSD) hardware.)
There is no way to see what eMMC you have, but unless the MCU was replaced recently it is likely the standard 8GB one. (I'm not sure if the "bad" batch of chips extends as far as 2017 or not, it seems for sure it is most of 2015 and 2016.)
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Is this a sign of EMMC failure? I've already had one incident of a black screen/non-responsive touchscreen described earlier here about a month ago. It's been fine since.
But I just took a 300 mile trip yesterday, and I noticed two things. On the "consumption" graph on the MCU, the estimated remaining range, if over 100 miles read: 10— but when it dropped below 100, it read correctly. Also, last night on the main UI screen, a couple of the buttons (the pop the frunk and one or two others) looked like chinese characters. But when I got in the car today, they were fine.
I guess what I'm asking is, what is the criteria the SCs use to trigger an MCU replacement under warranty? How bad does it have to get? I'd hate to get stranded somewhere.
But I just took a 300 mile trip yesterday, and I noticed two things. On the "consumption" graph on the MCU, the estimated remaining range, if over 100 miles read: 10— but when it dropped below 100, it read correctly. Also, last night on the main UI screen, a couple of the buttons (the pop the frunk and one or two others) looked like chinese characters. But when I got in the car today, they were fine.
I guess what I'm asking is, what is the criteria the SCs use to trigger an MCU replacement under warranty? How bad does it have to get? I'd hate to get stranded somewhere.
We feel the best guideline is that if car is 2016 or older and you see symptoms then best to replace. Those are some of the symptoms. Also symptoms can change from version to version as files are moved around.
Sc should be able to see the writes on the chips. However it’s not necessarily a perfect indicator.
The car syslog can show errors with corruption.
But not sure what they look at. I had them tow the car down to the sc for a new 12v battery when mcu screen was bad. Then when car was there the customer was asked for $400 diagnostic fee. We looked at the car and identified it as corruption. The entire chip was corrupted at only around 1800 writes.
The new chip should perform much better.
Pretty sure my eMMC is bad. Just wanted to post this for anyone else that might be seeing these symptoms that led up to it. This is a 2015 Model S 85D with ~55k miles.
For the most part, everything has been working as expected. I did get the occasional garbled text issue that was fixed with a reboot, but I haven't seen that issue in a while after one of the updates. Starting about two weeks ago, I was unable to connect using the mobile app. Didn't think much of it as I don't use the app that often, but yesterday I noticed it still wasn't connecting so when I got home, I decided to troubleshoot. The first thing I tried was turning mobile data off but it kept saying my username and password were incorrect even though I'm 100% certain it was the correct username and password. I also tried signing out of the mobile app and back in, but I was still unable to connect to the car. I then tried an MCU reboot, which took a while but seemed to reboot just fine. Still unable to connect via the Tesla app and I was still getting the invalid username/password error when trying to turn off the mobile data option in the car. I then attempted a "deep reset" (pressing the buttons above the scroll wheel and pressing the scroll wheel). The instrument display rebooted just fine but the main display went blank and never restarted. It was getting late so I just left it as is, thinking maybe it's just taking a while to restart. I woke up this morning and tried leaving for work, but the main display is still blank. Tried rebooting the MCU again but nothing. When I press the brake, I can hear the speakers make a faint popping sound, the lights on the steering wheel controls light up for just a second and turn off. It's like the car is trying to boot up but immediately fails.
Unfortunately the car is not drivable. I can't connect via the mobile app to schedule an appointment. Tried calling the local service center but no one is answering so I left a message. Also tried calling roadside assistance but after waiting for 15+ minutes, I hung up since I'm sure there's someone else that's actually stranded on the side of the road that probably needs more help. I'm still under a warranty (I purchased the car used through Tesla with the 4 year/50k warranty), but it seems trying to get a hold of someone is near impossible at Tesla. Pretty frustrating experience even though I knew it would happen eventually.
For the most part, everything has been working as expected. I did get the occasional garbled text issue that was fixed with a reboot, but I haven't seen that issue in a while after one of the updates. Starting about two weeks ago, I was unable to connect using the mobile app. Didn't think much of it as I don't use the app that often, but yesterday I noticed it still wasn't connecting so when I got home, I decided to troubleshoot. The first thing I tried was turning mobile data off but it kept saying my username and password were incorrect even though I'm 100% certain it was the correct username and password. I also tried signing out of the mobile app and back in, but I was still unable to connect to the car. I then tried an MCU reboot, which took a while but seemed to reboot just fine. Still unable to connect via the Tesla app and I was still getting the invalid username/password error when trying to turn off the mobile data option in the car. I then attempted a "deep reset" (pressing the buttons above the scroll wheel and pressing the scroll wheel). The instrument display rebooted just fine but the main display went blank and never restarted. It was getting late so I just left it as is, thinking maybe it's just taking a while to restart. I woke up this morning and tried leaving for work, but the main display is still blank. Tried rebooting the MCU again but nothing. When I press the brake, I can hear the speakers make a faint popping sound, the lights on the steering wheel controls light up for just a second and turn off. It's like the car is trying to boot up but immediately fails.
Unfortunately the car is not drivable. I can't connect via the mobile app to schedule an appointment. Tried calling the local service center but no one is answering so I left a message. Also tried calling roadside assistance but after waiting for 15+ minutes, I hung up since I'm sure there's someone else that's actually stranded on the side of the road that probably needs more help. I'm still under a warranty (I purchased the car used through Tesla with the 4 year/50k warranty), but it seems trying to get a hold of someone is near impossible at Tesla. Pretty frustrating experience even though I knew it would happen eventually.
Hi shred. Sorry to hear about that issues. Car usually starts after 30 seconds waiting. Sounds like your under warranty and need to wait for service. It’s a tough time for it to die. If your out of warranty we can help.
Just wanted to follow up on my earlier post. So after the most recent firmware update, all of my issues have cleared up. In the week since the update, I haven't needed to reboot and my Tesla app has connected every time. Everything is working as it should as far as I can tell. The only change I've noticed with firmware update is that it shows that my vehicle is using more energy for the same commute I drive every day. Before it used about 290 Wh/mi, now it's up to about 320.
Added symptom of trip counters, and Info of T6, 7, and 8 inside mcu.
Also, make sure to put mcu back in, remove 12V battery negative along with Fireman loop, or use a tender. Also roll down the windows, and open the frunk if safe. We have been needing to help people get back in their car lately...
Also, make sure to put mcu back in, remove 12V battery negative along with Fireman loop, or use a tender. Also roll down the windows, and open the frunk if safe. We have been needing to help people get back in their car lately...
Add me on the list. Dropped off my board to Tony yesterday.
Also anyone has a LTE upgrade board to sell or know a SC that will sell you one. Checked one local SC who said it was a restricted part and that they had to install it for a total of $500+ because it needs to be configured after installation. Told them my MCU was out but they didn't care, $500 please.
Also anyone has a LTE upgrade board to sell or know a SC that will sell you one. Checked one local SC who said it was a restricted part and that they had to install it for a total of $500+ because it needs to be configured after installation. Told them my MCU was out but they didn't care, $500 please.
jcaspar
Member
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
They started restricting purchases just about the time they started adding it to the re-manufactured MCU1. Probably want to keep them so they have them when they need them. The cost from part dept without installation was about $130 when they did sell them.
If you have lived with it for this long, you might as well just sit back and wait until closer 3G sunset. Tesla will have a plan for retrofitting those remaining 3G cars and you might get a good deal.
If you have lived with it for this long, you might as well just sit back and wait until closer 3G sunset. Tesla will have a plan for retrofitting those remaining 3G cars and you might get a good deal.
jcaspar
Member
That's what I decided to do. Not worth the 500$ upgrade for now as it is fast enough for me, faster with the new eMMC. Will have to do something when 3G goes away.
Got my car back today. Turns out it wasn't the eMMC, but according to the service tech it was a corrupt SD card that holds the map data (didn't know there was a separate SD card). I noticed they also installed a couple different software versions but when I picked up the car it was restored with the latest. I asked if they were able to check the eMMC life expectancy and told me mine was still good as it didn't meet their threshold to be replaced. I realize it's just a matter of time but I still have over two years of the warranty left. I think I'll just keep the pin to drive feature disabled for now since that resulted in having to get the car towed since it was not drivable.
As a side note, Tesla service is probably the worst I've ever experienced. I received a text my car was ready to be picked up but when I arrived, I get in the car and look behind me to see the rear seats folded down and some of the plastic panels and screws just sitting in the trunk. Not a huge deal and they were able to quickly re-assemble it, but just sad to see. Also noticed my interior was a bit dirty with some residue on the steering wheel. As I'm driving away, I check my tire pressure and they're sitting at 51 PSI, which the max listed on the tires is 50 PSI.
Last edited:
Similar threads
