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Coolant Actuator Replacement Advice - DIY

scotbotmosh

New Member
Mar 23, 2021
2
0
Home
Greetings I own a 2015 MS 85D. I have seen a small coolant leak and have been able to follow it back to a leaky coolant actuator. Tesla wants $465 to replace this, I have found a used part for $66.00. Given the location of the part and I have a fair amount of experience in auto repair it is very tempting to replace this quickly (vs. waiting 2 weeks for Tesla service) and cheaply myself.

Question I have is are there any pitfalls here to consider? I am mostly concerned about funky firmware/ software related items I do not have visibility to. If this is purely a mechanical fix it seems pretty straight forward.

Any feedback is appreciated!

Screen Shot 2021-03-23 at 2.56.24 PM.png
 

KalJoMoS

Member
Aug 11, 2019
447
224
EETN, EST
Maybe this discussion helps, it’s for the 4-way valve change but one post in it (#9) also describes 3-way valve as this might be similar for your issue:
Here is also a list of fluids involved on Model S and quantities:
2C21FEC4-4164-4318-878C-6D30443E33DB.jpeg
 

dmwahl

Member
Mar 12, 2021
67
39
Verona, WI
@scotbotmosh Curious if you ended up replacing the 3-way valve yourself and how it went? I just noticed a leak from mine a few days ago (pulled the frunk and it's the same part # you posted about). Only happens when the heat is on and is slow, so I decided to order the part from Tesla as it's getting warmer outside and not urgent.
 
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tekknoschtev

Member
Apr 27, 2020
7
1
Michigan
I wish I had been able to diagnose where my leak was coming from because I'd have happily given the part replacement a shot myself. Alas, had our 2015 85D towed 70 miles to the shop where it's going to be sitting for a week and a half. It's been out of commission for about 3 weeks assuming the Friday ETA is accurate. $257 and some change after taxes.

The part, according to the estimate, is only $55. Assuming I'd have been able to source the part, probably would have been out of service for far less time. All of the searching I did indicated it was just a hardware change, no firmware updates/software tools needed.
 

tekknoschtev

Member
Apr 27, 2020
7
1
Michigan
With any coolant leak, you need to put pressure on the system with coolant pressure pump to reliably find leaks.
Thanks for the tip. Generally speaking I consider myself up for the challenge, but also feel this mysterious "ooo battery car, scary stuff if I break it". But after the reading I've done, should another leak appear I feel much more confident at least doing the diagnostics myself.

Just got the all clear from Tesla, picking it up tomorrow. $259 and some change out the door for the 3-way valve. $55 for the part, the rest is labor + taxes. Worst part was the tow and now the 2 hour round trip to pick it up.
 
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dmwahl

Member
Mar 12, 2021
67
39
Verona, WI
Tesla wants $465 to replace this, I have found a used part for $66.00.
Just wanted to let you know since I'm going to replace the same part myself, Tesla quoted me $55 for this part brand new. No sense buying used for more money... They also charged $15 for S&H, I'm guessing that would not apply if I picked it up from a service center but there isn't one near me just yet. I'll post my experience once it's done (or on a flatbed to the SC because I screwed something up).
 

Harvey Danger

Member
Mar 2, 2021
362
258
The Pacific Northwest
Just wanted to let you know since I'm going to replace the same part myself, Tesla quoted me $55 for this part brand new. No sense buying used for more money... They also charged $15 for S&H, I'm guessing that would not apply if I picked it up from a service center but there isn't one near me just yet. I'll post my experience once it's done (or on a flatbed to the SC because I screwed something up).
Love to hear any follow up on this.
Tesla wanted $320 to do this on my model X during a recent service visit...
 

dmwahl

Member
Mar 12, 2021
67
39
Verona, WI
Love to hear any follow up on this.
Tesla wanted $320 to do this on my model X during a recent service visit...
I finished this myself this weekend, not difficult at all. The worst part was getting the second screw out holding the valve in (closest to front of the car). I had to snake one hand down the left of the frame rail to guide the torx bit (T27 or T30). I'd suggest a wobble bit and extension then you can get it from the right of the frame rail, otherwise a stubby ratchet might fit from the left of the frame rail. Even so it really wasn't too hard.

Otherwise I used some brake line clamps to pinch off the coolant lines and only lost a cup or two of coolant. Topped it off with Zerex G48 from O'Reilly. Took me ~45 minutes to do the 3-way valve, and while I was in there I did the 4-way valve as well (even easier) which added another 30 minutes or so. After reconnecting the 12V battery it will run the pumps for a few minutes. I found this did most of the bleeding but I checked the coolant again the next day and it had dropped a little (maybe halfway between max and normal).

See more at Leaking 3-way valve

Interesting that they wanted $320, they told me it would be $205 to repair, $55 for the part and 1 hour of labor at $150/hr.
 
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