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Coolant Actuator Replacement Advice - DIY

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Greetings I own a 2015 MS 85D. I have seen a small coolant leak and have been able to follow it back to a leaky coolant actuator. Tesla wants $465 to replace this, I have found a used part for $66.00. Given the location of the part and I have a fair amount of experience in auto repair it is very tempting to replace this quickly (vs. waiting 2 weeks for Tesla service) and cheaply myself.

Question I have is are there any pitfalls here to consider? I am mostly concerned about funky firmware/ software related items I do not have visibility to. If this is purely a mechanical fix it seems pretty straight forward.

Any feedback is appreciated!

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Maybe this discussion helps, it’s for the 4-way valve change but one post in it (#9) also describes 3-way valve as this might be similar for your issue:
Here is also a list of fluids involved on Model S and quantities:
2C21FEC4-4164-4318-878C-6D30443E33DB.jpeg
 
@scotbotmosh Curious if you ended up replacing the 3-way valve yourself and how it went? I just noticed a leak from mine a few days ago (pulled the frunk and it's the same part # you posted about). Only happens when the heat is on and is slow, so I decided to order the part from Tesla as it's getting warmer outside and not urgent.
 
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I wish I had been able to diagnose where my leak was coming from because I'd have happily given the part replacement a shot myself. Alas, had our 2015 85D towed 70 miles to the shop where it's going to be sitting for a week and a half. It's been out of commission for about 3 weeks assuming the Friday ETA is accurate. $257 and some change after taxes.

The part, according to the estimate, is only $55. Assuming I'd have been able to source the part, probably would have been out of service for far less time. All of the searching I did indicated it was just a hardware change, no firmware updates/software tools needed.
 
With any coolant leak, you need to put pressure on the system with coolant pressure pump to reliably find leaks.
Thanks for the tip. Generally speaking I consider myself up for the challenge, but also feel this mysterious "ooo battery car, scary stuff if I break it". But after the reading I've done, should another leak appear I feel much more confident at least doing the diagnostics myself.

Just got the all clear from Tesla, picking it up tomorrow. $259 and some change out the door for the 3-way valve. $55 for the part, the rest is labor + taxes. Worst part was the tow and now the 2 hour round trip to pick it up.
 
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Tesla wants $465 to replace this, I have found a used part for $66.00.
Just wanted to let you know since I'm going to replace the same part myself, Tesla quoted me $55 for this part brand new. No sense buying used for more money... They also charged $15 for S&H, I'm guessing that would not apply if I picked it up from a service center but there isn't one near me just yet. I'll post my experience once it's done (or on a flatbed to the SC because I screwed something up).
 
Just wanted to let you know since I'm going to replace the same part myself, Tesla quoted me $55 for this part brand new. No sense buying used for more money... They also charged $15 for S&H, I'm guessing that would not apply if I picked it up from a service center but there isn't one near me just yet. I'll post my experience once it's done (or on a flatbed to the SC because I screwed something up).
Love to hear any follow up on this.
Tesla wanted $320 to do this on my model X during a recent service visit...
 
Love to hear any follow up on this.
Tesla wanted $320 to do this on my model X during a recent service visit...
I finished this myself this weekend, not difficult at all. The worst part was getting the second screw out holding the valve in (closest to front of the car). I had to snake one hand down the left of the frame rail to guide the torx bit (T27 or T30). I'd suggest a wobble bit and extension then you can get it from the right of the frame rail, otherwise a stubby ratchet might fit from the left of the frame rail. Even so it really wasn't too hard.

Otherwise I used some brake line clamps to pinch off the coolant lines and only lost a cup or two of coolant. Topped it off with Zerex G48 from O'Reilly. Took me ~45 minutes to do the 3-way valve, and while I was in there I did the 4-way valve as well (even easier) which added another 30 minutes or so. After reconnecting the 12V battery it will run the pumps for a few minutes. I found this did most of the bleeding but I checked the coolant again the next day and it had dropped a little (maybe halfway between max and normal).

See more at Leaking 3-way valve

Interesting that they wanted $320, they told me it would be $205 to repair, $55 for the part and 1 hour of labor at $150/hr.
 
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