Cooling cycle non-stop?

[BlueIsGreen]

Greetings!

Question at hand: 2018 signature series Tesla seems stuck in the coolant circulation mode. It sounds like when it's been parked and you pop the trunk (someone here likened it to a puppy perking up to go for a walk, an image I loved!) only... (a) it's not actually so warm in the home garage after midnight, (b) it's been running for a while. No, I'm not sure how long.

Anyone have tips of how to debug or what to look for?

I sent a note to [email protected] but of course this is happening at the start of a three-day weekend... :-( My nearest Tesla service center is now in Wexford, PA. I have a bit of a sinking feeling because I went to get the roadster inspected as part of the registration for moving into PA yesterday. Maybe just coincidence. I had wanted to get it done by Tesla but I was unable to get anyone at Tesla Wexford to call back (of course) since they want me to use the app (of course) which, well, you all know. So I gave up and went somewhere closer to where I live. Maybe the email address will help me get an appointment.

While I'm here, a quick social update. I bought roadster #48 (Tess) a bit before the pandemic upended everything. Folks here were super kind as I got oriented -- thank you all for being an amazing resource! I am disappointed that I didn't get to meet up with folks at Alice's Restaurant and wander Skyline Drive together before leaving the Bay Area. The pandemic continues to mess up so many good things. But going for a drive is one of the few reliable ways to go from the craziness of the world to grinning. I feel so fortunate to get to take care of this object of beauty for a little while, and hope to do right by her.

 

[coolVariable]

Maybe try the service disconnect?
First in the VMS (make sure the car is open and unlocked - i usually have the roof off when doing any work) and then by unplugging the big cable (someone more qualified should describe the proper procedure, you can maybe find a proper description how to do it)

 

[Nvbob]

Check your HVAC coolant to make sure it doesn't have a leak. I had the same problem (twice) where the coolant pump would continuously run preventing the car from "sleeping". The SC checked it and found leaks (both times) at the TVX valves (there are four I think - two at the battery box and two at the HVAC connector under the hood). The SC diagnosed and replaced the o-rings at both locations. @gregd had a similar issue.

 

[gregd]

Sounds to me that the battery is simply warmer than 30C (86F). If you do a Range charge on low current (12-16 amps) for about 30 minutes, it should cool the battery down below that temp, letting the car go properly to sleep. Don't forget to terminate the charging before it gets to totally full, and reset the charging parameters when you're done.

The battery has a LOT of thermal mass to it, so it will take some time (days) to cool down to ambient (assuming ambient is cooler) on its own.

Leaving the car plugged in should run a daily (and standard) charge cycle that will keep the battery cool. I have mine scheduled for 10pm when it's cool in the garage and electric rates are lower.

 

[jason.tv]

do you have ovms to monitor the temps?

 

[dhrivnak]

This was common for me especially with the 3.0 battery. It would run for days if the battery was above say 85F. Which is EASY to do during the summer.

 

[Curt]

During the summer, I try to bring the Roadster in at 40% POC or a bit less. Somewhere between 39% and 33%, the sleep temperature threshold eases and allows the car to go to sleep, even in the summer heat.

It seems that the lower the POC, the higher the temperature threshold.

 

[eHorses]

During the summer, I try to bring the Roadster in at 40% POC or a bit less. Somewhere between 39% and 33%, the sleep temperature threshold eases and allows the car to go to sleep, even in the summer heat.

It seems that the lower the POC, the higher the temperature threshold.

Do you have any concerns of faster battery degradation with the higher temperature threshold?

I’ve personally have ‘inhibit APS’ to stop the ESS coolant pump from running 24/7. It only seems to stop after the car has been park for awhile and reaches my garage ambient temperature (85F-climate controlled) to put it to sleep. I question the effectiveness of this pump.

 

[ML Auto]

Do you have any concerns of faster battery degradation with the higher temperature threshold?

I’ve personally have ‘inhibit APS’ to stop the ESS coolant pump from running 24/7. It only seems to stop after the car has been park for awhile and reaches my garage ambient temperature (85F-climate controlled) to put it to sleep. I question the effectiveness of this pump.

It's not the pump that is the problem. The system was not designed to cool the battery without the a/c on. There is no air/liquid heat exchanger (radiator) to cool the battery coolant. In fact in warm temps the heat created by the pump will actually raise the coolant temp. You have to inhibit the APS or manually activate the cooling cycle by charging or the installing the manual cooling mod. Manual battery cooldown mod - a cure for the Roadsters insomnia

 

[Curt]

Do you have any concerns of faster battery degradation with the higher temperature threshold?

I don't. After all, at low SOC (Why did I say POC before? That's what I get for trying to multitask.) the cells should be safe for storage at significantly higher temperatures.