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Cooling the Performance Model 3 On Track – An Overview of Our Modified Heat Exchangers

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This has been incredible testing and work by @MasterC17, I can't tell you how much of a joy it is to work with like-minded people. These lockdowns really limited the amount of development we could do on various different types of cars, but working with guys like Chris remotely was a fun challenge and it was amazing how productive we could be even thousands of kilometers apart!

@Dolemite - The oil cooler fan can be controlled in a number of ways, either with a temperature switch in the provided 1/8" NPT port, using a switch in the trunk, or with a more complicated controller. We decided not to include anything in the kit because it would push the price a bit too high for such a low volume product, but we did make a nice affordable solid state relay in an aluminum housing that means you don't need ugly fuses or big switches. The Model 3 has no fuses so we didn't want to give anyone a reason to need to add any!

Our suggestion is to connect a switch to the Solid State Relay and turn it on when you want the cooling - either when precooling for the track or when going to the track. You can also use a heavier duty switch and not need the Solid State Relay at all, as the wire from the amplifier is already protected by the OEM power distribution module.

We'll have more specific instructions on the SSR in the coming weeks.

A thermal switch doesn't work very well unfortunately because all of the switches we could get our hands on are designed for gasoline engine temperatures - so the fan wouldn't come on until the system was already too hot!

The other thing about temp switches, if you're supercharging and not going to the track you might not want the fan to come on, so a "dumb" thermal switch won't really be able to know your intentions. The MoTeC C125 or any other CAN-based controller with a digital/aux output can be programmed to turn on the solid-state relay, and that is really the ideal way to set it up. So when you're in track mode, or when the Cooling Party Controller is on, the fan would automatically turn on.

@MarcG - The first 10 oil cooler kits are done and ready to ship other than some back-ordered Aeroquip fittings to assemble the hoses. They are out of stock USA-wide so we're just waiting on those patiently... I figure it's pretty cold in the USA so we aren't too worried about this, however if it looks like the fittings won't come in soon we'll make the decision to either switch hose options (which I really don't want to do as we're using really nice motorsport hoses and fittings made in the USA), or for those that are in a rush you can reach out to us and we can work something out without the hoses. In any event, it shouldn't be long for the oil cooler!

There are a few other bits as well, as Chris mentioned the oil cooler alone doesn't buy you a huge amount of additional run time, but with the CPC and the oil cooler you would certainly have more run time by precooling, as generally speaking it takes a lot of effort to get the car cool between sessions if you come off the track hot and go straight to charging. It's especially bad if you Supercharge between sessions.

There is more coming as well for the hardcore guys.
 
Exciting! Can’t wait to see the finished product.
What’s the installation complexity expected to look like?

It will require some special tools, but it is DIY-able. I would figure about 3 hours for the rear oil cooler, which you don't really need any special tools for. The front oil cooler will take roughly the same. The radiator will probably be more of a 4 hour job, and will require special tools for bleeding the coolant (vacuum bleed is required). The modification in the penthouse would require HV awareness and insulating gloves, tools, etc, but would probably be the quickest to do.

I'm looking to start offering installation services later this year, incase anyone is not comfortable doing it themselves!
 
I like my approach with oil radiators invisible even though they are 2x in the rear and 5x larger in the front. I also like that there is zero oil flow through radiators if I switched them off. It's not for free, though - parts alone cost 4k.

Need to do something with a front coolant radiator. Just oil coolers are not enough - coolant temperatures climbing up faster than I'd like. I just don't know how to avoid losing frunk weather sealing...

Very interesting what is that you hack in the battery and if it works.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: SummerlinChiro
Could someone explain what the weakest links are, in order of overheating, on the dual motor TM3s?
In my experience, brake temps, followed by battery temp. To reduce brake temps you can use high regen settings, however, this introduces high temps in the battery. So, to keep the brakes happy, you need to cool the battery. Next I found was the rear motor. The only things that throttled the car was either the brakes (which made me throttle the car) or the battery. I pulled data from the battery temp out for this video. This was in fully stock trim. I'm still learning how to drive it and had a few issues with traffic but you can see here and with my other videos the battery temp. This track has a Supercharger at it which is awesome! I could use more laps though. It chews up the battery pretty fast.
 
I really don't like using regen on track. I find that with it on it makes the car too nervous in the rear under braking. I find the best feel and lap time is in faulting the system entirely. I will say though that this is for time attack purposes where I am only doing 1-2 hot laps at a time. Even in that amount of time I kill the brakes and that is running the most aggressive pad and two piece rotors.
 
I really don't like using regen on track. I find that with it on it makes the car too nervous in the rear under braking. I find the best feel and lap time is in faulting the system entirely. I will say though that this is for time attack purposes where I am only doing 1-2 hot laps at a time. Even in that amount of time I kill the brakes and that is running the most aggressive pad and two piece rotors.
Agree with the nervous rear. I spun mine at 160km/h due in part to a little unsettling going into a corner, but I was also going really hard and put the boot in too early too hard with 30;70 bias. I am not convinced it wouldn't have done exactly the same thing without any regen, maybe 35:65 would have been a safer drive split, might have got away with it then.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Lindenwood
If you're a left foot braker it's possible to balance the car more easily with full regen, but right foot brakers probably would benefit by turning down the regen at least to 70% just to take the edge off. Full regen does invoke lift off oversteer for sure.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Lindenwood
I presume he means using the Partybox to disable TC and SC (which includes Regen). Theoretically this will allow you more freedom than Track Mode does.
Exactly what I am doing. It turns everything off and I assume makes the power split as even as it can be. I have noticed better laps times doing this than any other settings.

I do think I need to play with regen more though. Formula e next year is not even going to have rear brakes as all rear braking will be handled through motor regen. With the right tools and setup regen should be immensely powerful.
 
If you're a left foot braker it's possible to balance the car more easily with full regen, but right foot brakers probably would benefit by turning down the regen at least to 70% just to take the edge off. Full regen does invoke lift off oversteer for sure.
I have my car setup pretty loose for low speed and it definitely has no problems with lift off oversteer. Very controllable setup this way though.
 
I have my car setup pretty loose for low speed and it definitely has no problems with lift off oversteer. Very controllable setup this way though.
There's nothing wrong with lift off oversteer if it's predictable. The problem with regen acting on the rear motor is that it can be unpredictable in high speed corners. Even if you come off the throttle a tiny amount the regen is starting to come in, causing an instability. It won't be a problem in most situations but the higher the corner entry speed the more likely it is to become an issue.
 
Hello MasterC17, i'm from Vancouver Canada and we've built a M3P race car for our local club racing purpose.
Performance is great and we've done all the drive unit cooling we could from MPP. Our next challenge is battery cooling and I see that you have a large upgraded rad for the high voltage battery. Can you please provide some resources or knowledge about this particular upgrade? We'd really like to complete a 20min session without overheating the battery. As for now, our drive units work flawlessly within ideal temp range. Many thanks in advance :)
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Hello MasterC17, i'm from Vancouver Canada and we've built a M3P race car for our local club racing purpose.
Performance is great and we've done all the drive unit cooling we could from MPP. Our next challenge is battery cooling and I see that you have a large upgraded rad for the high voltage battery. Can you please provide some resources or knowledge about this particular upgrade? We'd really like to complete a 20min session without overheating the battery. As for now, our drive units work flawlessly within ideal temp range. Many thanks in advance :)View attachment 879937
Does your club have an IG?