(Coronavirus) On UV Sanitization

[AudubonB]

Preamble On Edit: As previously suggested, I have created this new thread, carving out from the main 'Coronavirus' thread the initial responses.


ON UV SANITIZATION
I have seen reference from some of you in this thread regarding UV-C lights as being an effective sanitizer. I consider this an appropriate topic for this thread and would like to encourage it - whether the premise be correct or incorrect. (and if it is correct and the subtopic has legs, I may spin it out as a separate thread).

My overnight thoughts are the following:

• build a light-proof box large enough to handle the single largest item I consider it likely to come to our household.
  • 1m x 1m x 1.5m is what I have in mind.
• surround interior with reflective surface.
  • Need it be glass mirrored, or would aluminum foil suffice?
• Place UV-C source at one corner
• Have a suspension in center of box top for item to be sanitized
  • Hook and a cord that one pre-winds prior to emplacing in box, so that it turns
    • alternative, just a little more work, would be to have some kind of rotating mechanism through the top, crank-turned
    • Hook can be augmented with or replaced by
      • a clip for such items (like bag of frozen goods, etc.) not suitable for hook
      • a "toaster carrier" type of gadget in order to hold multiple items like mail
      • other?????
• Light switch is outside of box
  • Most simple is to keep cord unattached to receptacle except when used
  • In-line switch next simplest
  • Box-mounted switch marginally more professional
  • Dead-man safety switch doubling to lid being affixed or not is a very good idea. Plunge-type would suffice.
  • How best to ensure light really is on?
    • A light "weep-hole" a very safe distance from the ground - 1" would do - that can shine only downward?
      • On to what kind of surface can one safely project UV-C rays without the reflected rays being dangerous? Mere white paper????
    • An in-line ammeter will demonstrate whether there is demand for electricity - ie, whether or not the light is functioning. This would be appropriate only if there is no electric draw other than the UV-emitter itself: motorized turner, static transformer, etc.

Questions that immediately come to mind:

• A quick web search using ONLY articles that appeared BEFORE Dec. 2019 suggests that broad-spectrum UV (200-400nm) is at least as effective as UV-C (222nm or so), and that UV-C preferences have appeared as a way to reduce the concomitant damage to living tissue. Ref. e.g. Can UV Light Fight the Spread of Influenza? , and esp. Far-UVC light: A new tool to control the spread of airborne-mediated microbial diseases
  • True or False?

• How long for appropriate exposure?

• What effects might it have on foodstuffs? Is this a concern, or can one reasonably assume that ex-vivo exposure time from any contaminated food, as opposed to its packaging, is all that is necessary?

• Regarding another's posting that s/he plans to sanitize an n95 mask for multiple re-use with UV-C: I suggest be very careful with the deterioration effects of UV on elastic. My lifelong experience with rubber bands is that sunlight destroy them pretty quickly and first suspect is its UV rays. So check to see that any mask's bands remain pliant, or else.....

*****I like projects!*****

(No longer needed)===> ON EDIT: PLEASE make use of "ON UV SANITIZATION" etc., as the first words in any response to facilitate any porting-over to a new subthread were that to occur. Thank you. <===

 

[JRP3]

ON UV SANITIZATION

alternative, just a little more work, would be to have some kind of rotating mechanism through the top, crank-turned

Maybe modify a rotisserie oven?

 

[N5329K]

ON UV SANITIZATION

I have seen reference from some of you in this thread regarding UV-C lights as being an effective sanitizer. I consider this an appropriate topic for this thread and would like to encourage it - whether the premise be correct or incorrect. (and if it is correct and the subtopic has legs, I may spin it out as a separate thread).

My overnight thoughts are the following:

• build a light-proof box large enough to handle the single largest item I consider it likely to come to our household.
  • 1m x 1m x 1.5m is what I have in mind.
• surround interior with reflective surface.
  • Need it be glass mirrored, or would aluminum foil suffice?
• Place UV-C source at one corner
• Have a suspension in center of box top for item to be sanitized
  • Hook and a cord that one pre-winds prior to emplacing in box, so that it turns
    • alternative, just a little more work, would be to have some kind of rotating mechanism through the top, crank-turned
    • Hook can be augmented with or replaced by
      • a clip for such items (like bag of frozen goods, etc.) not suitable for hook
      • a "toaster carrier" type of gadget in order to hold multiple items like mail
      • other?????
• Light switch is outside of box
  • Most simple is to keep cord unattached to receptacle except when used
  • In-line switch next simplest
  • Box-mounted switch marginally more professional
  • Dead-man safety switch doubling to lid being affixed or not is a very good idea. Plunge-type would suffice.
  • How best to ensure light really is on?
    • A light "weep-hole" a very safe distance from the ground - 1" would do - that can shine only downward?
      • On to what kind of surface can one safely project UV-C rays without the reflected rays being dangerous? Mere white paper????
    • An in-line ammeter will demonstrate whether there is demand for electricity - ie, whether or not the light is functioning. This would be appropriate only if there is no electric draw other than the UV-emitter itself: motorized turner, static transformer, etc.

Questions that immediately come to mind:

• A quick web search using ONLY articles that appeared BEFORE Dec. 2019 suggests that broad-spectrum UV (200-400nm) is at least as effective as UV-C (222nm or so), and that UV-C preferences have appeared as a way to reduce the concomitant damage to living tissue. Ref. e.g. Can UV Light Fight the Spread of Influenza? , and esp. Far-UVC light: A new tool to control the spread of airborne-mediated microbial diseases
  • True or False?

• How long for appropriate exposure?

• What effects might it have on foodstuffs? Is this a concern, or can one reasonably assume that ex-vivo exposure time from any contaminated food, as opposed to its packaging, is all that is necessary?

• Regarding another's posting that s/he plans to sanitize an n95 mask for multiple re-use with UV-C: I suggest be very careful with the deterioration effects of UV on elastic. My lifelong experience with rubber bands is that sunlight destroy them pretty quickly and first suspect is its UV rays. So check to see that any mask's bands remain pliant, or else.....

*****I like projects!*****

Here's "my" decontamination box.....actually repurposed from my daughter's science fair project studying how little UV exposure is needed to completely sterilize a petri dish (answer: 40 seconds).



Robin

 

[eevee-fan]

ON UV SANITIZATION

I have seen reference from some of you in this thread regarding UV-C lights as being an effective sanitizer. I consider this an appropriate topic for this thread and would like to encourage it - whether the premise be correct or incorrect. (and if it is correct and the subtopic has legs, I may spin it out as a separate thread).

My overnight thoughts are the following:

• build a light-proof box large enough to handle the single largest item I consider it likely to come to our household.
  • 1m x 1m x 1.5m is what I have in mind.
• surround interior with reflective surface.
  • Need it be glass mirrored, or would aluminum foil suffice?
• Place UV-C source at one corner
• Have a suspension in center of box top for item to be sanitized
  • Hook and a cord that one pre-winds prior to emplacing in box, so that it turns
    • alternative, just a little more work, would be to have some kind of rotating mechanism through the top, crank-turned
    • Hook can be augmented with or replaced by
      • a clip for such items (like bag of frozen goods, etc.) not suitable for hook
      • a "toaster carrier" type of gadget in order to hold multiple items like mail
      • other?????
• Light switch is outside of box
  • Most simple is to keep cord unattached to receptacle except when used
  • In-line switch next simplest
  • Box-mounted switch marginally more professional
  • Dead-man safety switch doubling to lid being affixed or not is a very good idea. Plunge-type would suffice.
  • How best to ensure light really is on?
    • A light "weep-hole" a very safe distance from the ground - 1" would do - that can shine only downward?
      • On to what kind of surface can one safely project UV-C rays without the reflected rays being dangerous? Mere white paper????
    • An in-line ammeter will demonstrate whether there is demand for electricity - ie, whether or not the light is functioning. This would be appropriate only if there is no electric draw other than the UV-emitter itself: motorized turner, static transformer, etc.

Questions that immediately come to mind:

• A quick web search using ONLY articles that appeared BEFORE Dec. 2019 suggests that broad-spectrum UV (200-400nm) is at least as effective as UV-C (222nm or so), and that UV-C preferences have appeared as a way to reduce the concomitant damage to living tissue. Ref. e.g. Can UV Light Fight the Spread of Influenza? , and esp. Far-UVC light: A new tool to control the spread of airborne-mediated microbial diseases
  • True or False?

• How long for appropriate exposure?

• What effects might it have on foodstuffs? Is this a concern, or can one reasonably assume that ex-vivo exposure time from any contaminated food, as opposed to its packaging, is all that is necessary?

• Regarding another's posting that s/he plans to sanitize an n95 mask for multiple re-use with UV-C: I suggest be very careful with the deterioration effects of UV on elastic. My lifelong experience with rubber bands is that sunlight destroy them pretty quickly and first suspect is its UV rays. So check to see that any mask's bands remain pliant, or else.....

*****I like projects!*****

You do know there are grow rooms readily available, right?

Amazon.com: grow room

 

[lascavarian]

ON UV SANITIZATION

• A quick web search using ONLY articles that appeared BEFORE Dec. 2019 suggests that broad-spectrum UV (200-400nm) is at least as effective as UV-C (222nm or so), and that UV-C preferences have appeared as a way to reduce the concomitant damage to living tissue. Ref. e.g. Can UV Light Fight the Spread of Influenza? , and esp. Far-UVC light: A new tool to control the spread of airborne-mediated microbial diseases
  • True or False?
  • Comment: UV exposure can result in cataracts. UV typically does not reflect well so it is direct exposure that counts.

• How long for appropriate exposure?

Comment: It depends on the energy delivered. This is math involving joules of energy etc.

• What effects might it have on foodstuffs? Is this a concern, or can one reasonably assume that ex-vivo exposure time from any contaminated food, as opposed to its packaging, is all that is necessary?

Comment: UV does not penetrate well so surface value mostly. I don't think this is helpful for food in most cases.

• Regarding another's posting that s/he plans to sanitize an n95 mask for multiple re-use with UV-C: I suggest be very careful with the deterioration effects of UV on elastic. My lifelong experience with rubber bands is that sunlight destroy them pretty quickly and first suspect is its UV rays. So check to see that any mask's bands remain pliant, or else.....

I worked (not any more) at a medical company developing and marketing a treatment for certain types of cancer (CTCL) via a plant extract (psoralen molecule - 8MOP) and UVA energy (I think 262nm but it has been a while) activation of the drug in separated blood fractions (T-cells are the target)

Photopheresis - Wikipedia

UVA will inactivate viruses and we were approached about viral inactivation for human plasma. It never happened for us but it is a thing.

UV is often used to help inactivate pathogens in medical grade water systems.

Delivering various frequencies of UV reliably is non-trivial. Our lamp sets only functioned for 150 hrs at rated energy delivery and the energy delivery had to be modeled to counter the decaying efficiency of the sets. Lamps had to be specially fabricated as well as the ballasts.

Newer solid state UV LEDs may be different in terms of delivery so not sure. Could be great stuff just not current on the tech.

The problem with pathogen treatment is the probability of blocking. UV does not reflect well nor does it penetrate well as our photobiologist used to say. So two or so pathogens sticking together cause a problem with inactivation. How many .99999.... do you require?

It would seem to me that this works and is useful if the UV is delivered reliably and it doesn't have to be 100%. I was looking some UV inactivators recently myself. Seems like a winner for the duct work.

 

[dc_h]

ON UV SANITIZATION

I worked (not any more) at a medical company developing and marketing a treatment for certain types of cancer (CTCL) via a plant extract (psoralen molecule - 8MOP) and UVA energy (I think 262nm but it has been a while) activation of the drug in separated blood fractions (T-cells are the target)

Photopheresis - Wikipedia

UVA will inactivate viruses and we were approached about viral inactivation for human plasma. It never happened for us but it is a thing.

UV is often used to help inactivate pathogens in medical grade water systems.

Delivering various frequencies of UV reliably is non-trivial. Our lamp sets only functioned for 150 hrs at rated energy delivery and the energy delivery had to be modeled to counter the decaying efficiency of the sets. Lamps had to be specially fabricated as well as the ballasts.

Newer solid state UV LEDs may be different in terms of delivery so not sure. Could be great stuff just not current on the tech.

The problem with pathogen treatment is the probability of blocking. UV does not reflect well nor does it penetrate well as our photobiologist used to say. So two or so pathogens sticking together cause a problem with inactivation. How many .99999.... do you require?

It would seem to me that this works and is useful if the UV is delivered reliably and it doesn't have to be 100%. I was looking some UV inactivators recently myself. Seems like a winner for the duct work.

Would be interesting tech to install in airports right in the existing TSA gates. I wondered about a UV wand for mail and deliveries. Low risk stuff, but huge market.

 

[lascavarian]

ON UV SANITIZATION

Would be interesting tech to install in airports right in the existing TSA gates. I wondered about a UV wand for mail and deliveries. Low risk stuff, but huge market.

Somebody does make a wand. There are phone irradiators. There are robots for hospital rooms and surgical suites etc.

Here is a link but can't vouch for them.

Excimer Wave Sterilray™ – Superior Excimer Wave Disinfection

 

[Nocturnal]

ON UV SANITIZATION

Somebody does make a wand. There are phone irradiators. There are robots for hospital rooms and surgical suites etc.

Here is a link but can't vouch for them.

Excimer Wave Sterilray™ – Superior Excimer Wave Disinfection

Very easy to make. I could build one tomorrow (in an uglier/larger form factor) from off the shelf parts. I've built LED rigs for my reef aquariums. Fun stuff.

 

[AudubonB]

ON UV SANITIZATION

ON UV SANITIZATION

Here's "my" decontamination box.....actually repurposed from my daughter's science fair project studying how little UV exposure is needed to completely sterilize a petri dish (answer: 40 seconds).


View attachment 523437 View attachment 523438
Robin

That cutout on the right-hand side appears to be a confirmation check for the light being on. Is this correct? If so, what material is the screen?
Have you reference as to what bulb she used?

 

[N5329K]

ON UV SANITIZATION

That cutout on the right-hand side appears to be a confirmation check for the light being on. Is this correct? If so, what material is the screen?
Have you reference as to what bulb she used?

The cutout is just what came with the shoebox and is totally covered over with the lid down. The bulb is 9 watts, 254 nM wavelength, made by Ushio, Model # PL9. Easily found, though I bet you could go LED now just as well.
I was wrong about her conclusions: I just reread her lab book and found that 100% mort for the petri dishes required 200 seconds, not 40.
Robin

 

[Causalien]

ON UV SANITIZATION


You do know there are grow rooms readily available, right?

Amazon.com: grow room

Oh wow. Thanks. Been looking for something like this, just didn't know the keyword to look for. Thanks.

BTW for people who are establishing the 3 zone quarantine at home. This can be placed in the red zone and used to put all your PPE for when you go outside and inside. And then have the foyer as the orange zone to wash and scrub up. And if you can get far-UVC, it is better for your health for the possibility of exposure.

Then once the crisis is up. Just use this to grow weed.

 

[eevee-fan]

ON UV SANITIZATION

Oh wow. Thanks. Been looking for something like this, just didn't know the keyword to look for. Thanks.

BTW for people who are establishing the 3 zone quarantine at home. This can be placed in the red zone and used to put all your PPE for when you go outside and inside. And then have the foyer as the orange zone to wash and scrub up.

Then once the crisis is up. Just use this to grow weed.

Or put foil on your garage walls and pack it full of UV-C lights. Instant decon room!

 

[Causalien]

ON UV SANITIZATION

Or put foil on your garage walls and pack it full of UV-C lights. Instant decon room!

That too.

I think it is too late to buy far-UVC light at the moment. Shipping has crawled to a stop. An alternative is to have space heater increase the temperature of the decontamination red zone. I think the recommended heating was 50 degree c for 6 hours.

This is kind of extreme for real airborne biological warf. And might indeed be needed if your city reached the aerosole saturation of wuhan level to consider the whole air contaminated. The problem is, we'll never know how contaminated the air was because no one measured it and we really don't know the real infection % in wuhan.

 

[AudubonB]

ON UV SANITIZATION

ON UV SANITIZATION


That too.

I think it is too late to buy far-UVC light at the moment. Shipping has crawled to a stop. An alternative is to have space heater increase the temperature of the decontamination red zone. I think the recommended heating was 50 degree c for 6 hours.

This is kind of extreme for real airborne biological warf. And might indeed be needed if your city reached the aerosole saturation of wuhan level to consider the whole air contaminated. The problem is, we'll never know how contaminated the air was because no one measured it and we really don't know the real infection % in wuhan.

A bit problematic for bags of frozen foods, that.

 

[AudubonB]

A thread for discussing uses of UV (UV-C especially but not necessariy exclusively) for sanitizing surfaces, items brought in from without some cordon sanitaire, DIY projects, and so forth.

 

[eevee-fan]

Tesla should have an option to add UV-C ground effects.

LED Ground Effects Kit for Your Car

 

[Mata Hari]

How long does the otem need to be. Exposed to the UV lighting?

 

[AudubonB]

ON UV SANITIZATION


You do know there are grow rooms readily available, right?

Amazon.com: grow room

Interesting.
What I see in a 5-second glance of that Amazon grow room page are enclosures that (1) already have reflective surfaces and that (2) I am supposing are at least somewhat prewired internally.

Is this correct? Do you or anyone else have specific recommendations for OR against any particular type brand or specific product?

 

[eevee-fan]

 

[EV forever]

ON UV SANITIZATION

Here's "my" decontamination box.....actually repurposed from my daughter's science fair project studying how little UV exposure is needed to completely sterilize a petri dish (answer: 40 seconds).


View attachment 523437 View attachment 523438
Robin

This looks like an interesting project to do while staying at home, but me and my hubby are not very handy. Looks like you have used a shoebox with a uv lamp. Can you post specifics of the UV lamp? There are so many on Amazon, can't figure out which one is enough for a shoebox size box. Also, is it better to line the inside with foil?

Preamble On Edit: As previously suggested, I have created this new thread, carving out from the main 'Coronavirus' thread the initial responses.


ON UV SANITIZATION
I have seen reference from some of you in this thread regarding UV-C lights as being an effective sanitizer. I consider this an appropriate topic for this thread and would like to encourage it - whether the premise be correct or incorrect. (and if it is correct and the subtopic has legs, I may spin it out as a separate thread).

My overnight thoughts are the following:

• build a light-proof box large enough to handle the single largest item I consider it likely to come to our household.
  • 1m x 1m x 1.5m is what I have in mind.
• surround interior with reflective surface.
  • Need it be glass mirrored, or would aluminum foil suffice?
• Place UV-C source at one corner
• Have a suspension in center of box top for item to be sanitized
  • Hook and a cord that one pre-winds prior to emplacing in box, so that it turns
    • alternative, just a little more work, would be to have some kind of rotating mechanism through the top, crank-turned
    • Hook can be augmented with or replaced by
      • a clip for such items (like bag of frozen goods, etc.) not suitable for hook
      • a "toaster carrier" type of gadget in order to hold multiple items like mail
      • other?????
• Light switch is outside of box
  • Most simple is to keep cord unattached to receptacle except when used
  • In-line switch next simplest
  • Box-mounted switch marginally more professional
  • Dead-man safety switch doubling to lid being affixed or not is a very good idea. Plunge-type would suffice.
  • How best to ensure light really is on?
    • A light "weep-hole" a very safe distance from the ground - 1" would do - that can shine only downward?
      • On to what kind of surface can one safely project UV-C rays without the reflected rays being dangerous? Mere white paper????
    • An in-line ammeter will demonstrate whether there is demand for electricity - ie, whether or not the light is functioning. This would be appropriate only if there is no electric draw other than the UV-emitter itself: motorized turner, static transformer, etc.

Questions that immediately come to mind:

• A quick web search using ONLY articles that appeared BEFORE Dec. 2019 suggests that broad-spectrum UV (200-400nm) is at least as effective as UV-C (222nm or so), and that UV-C preferences have appeared as a way to reduce the concomitant damage to living tissue. Ref. e.g. Can UV Light Fight the Spread of Influenza? , and esp. Far-UVC light: A new tool to control the spread of airborne-mediated microbial diseases
  • True or False?

• How long for appropriate exposure?

• What effects might it have on foodstuffs? Is this a concern, or can one reasonably assume that ex-vivo exposure time from any contaminated food, as opposed to its packaging, is all that is necessary?

• Regarding another's posting that s/he plans to sanitize an n95 mask for multiple re-use with UV-C: I suggest be very careful with the deterioration effects of UV on elastic. My lifelong experience with rubber bands is that sunlight destroy them pretty quickly and first suspect is its UV rays. So check to see that any mask's bands remain pliant, or else.....

*****I like projects!*****

(No longer needed)===> ON EDIT: PLEASE make use of "ON UV SANITIZATION" etc., as the first words in any response to facilitate any porting-over to a new subthread were that to occur. Thank you. <===

Did you build this one already? Results?