Cracked roof using roof rack w/ cargo box

[arbitrage000]

Incidentally, The nut that tightens the feet to the L-bolt is different than a normal nut. It is shaped like a donut, in that you don't use a normal socket to tighten it, you need a hex wrench-type driver that fits in the donut hole- like an allen wrench that can be attached to your torque wrench (see pic)View attachment 904943. This donut design of the nut is such that if you use a hex socket that has rounded edges to tighten the nut (like in the picture), the socket will "cam out" at the proper torque. The end of the L-bolt will force the hex socket out of the hole in the nut as it is tightened, so that the edges of the hex socket will no longer have purchase on the edges of the nut. Thus, with a rounded hex socket (vs. a squared-off allen wrench) it would not be possible to over-torque. Maybe it's just my particular socket, but rounded edges seems a common feature of these hex drivers...

Do you know which size hex bit the rack takes? Metric or imperial?
I’m just shopping on Amazon for a small torque wrench that goes low enough and some include a bit set but just want to make sure the size I’ll need is included in the set. Seems most of these sets are sold for bikes.
Thanks.

 

[Jpandes]

Update:

I just got back from the Tesla Service Center. I asked the SC rep to take a look at the roof glass and I pointed out that the roof glass is misaligned. He acknowledge that the roof was "off" and he made a note to ensure that the installers install the new glass roof to spec. I then asked him if Tesla would cover the repair. I know, it was a long shot...but you miss every shot that you don't take

He said that since it was not an OEM Tesla roof rack installed by Tesla, I would have to pay for the repair. In my case. that's a $500 deductible. He said that if I bought a Tesla Roof Rack, they would install it. However, he would not say that Tesla would cover the repair if the glass cracked again. He just said that he hasn't seen any cars have problems with roof racks installed by Tesla... I don't think I want to spend $500 for an OEM Roof Rack and risk having to shell out for another cracked roof repair. I guess we will be keeping our old '08 MDX for long trips.

BTW, my SC appointment was for today at 10 AM. The SC techs that install roof glass are not in today. I think they are at some training. So, I get to bring the car back on Monday.

 

[Eto Demerzel]

Update:

I just got back from the Tesla Service Center. I asked the SC rep to take a look at the roof glass and I pointed out that the roof glass is misaligned. He acknowledge that the roof was "off" and he made a note to ensure that the installers install the new glass roof to spec. I then asked him if Tesla would cover the repair. I know, it was a long shot...but you miss every shot that you don't take

He said that since it was not an OEM Tesla roof rack installed by Tesla, I would have to pay for the repair. In my case. that's a $500 deductible. He said that if I bought a Tesla Roof Rack, they would install it. However, he would not say that Tesla would cover the repair if the glass cracked again. He just said that he hasn't seen any cars have problems with roof racks installed by Tesla... I don't think I want to spend $500 for an OEM Roof Rack and risk having to shell out for another cracked roof repair. I guess we will be keeping our old '08 MDX for long trips.

BTW, my SC appointment was for today at 10 AM. The SC techs that install roof glass are not in today. I think they are at some training. So, I get to bring the car back on Monday.

i'm sure if it were a Tesla product installed by Tesla, they would have to cover any damage due to defective product or installation.

 

[Jpandes]

Interesting.
Since they are a fixed width, there is no error possible in setting up the width of the crossbars.

The L-brackets are simply locating brackets. At 3Nm, that is very low torque spec. It is not intended to hold weight, just hold the rack in place.
Pulling forces would be on the nut and the L-bracket and mounting tab. (3Nm is barely beyond finger tight with the wing nut)
At this torque spec, a torque wrench is critical. It should absolutely be included, and if not, have it installed by Tesla. That is probably the key factor in the install.

Breaking of the old brackets indicates there is a cantilever force on those brackets. The original bracket was welded with only vertical load in mind.
Full perimeter weld to stop bending forces. I wonder if the bracket itself is a thicker gauge steel?

I looked at the installation materials and can only think of several ways it could touch glass:
1. There is enough flex in the crossbars for the legs to bend inward, into the glass.
2. The load compresses the rubber feet, loosening the nut and giving enough play for the rack to shift over- thus putting weight on the glass.
3. Over torque the nut, bending the L-bracket(loosens the mount), forcing the foot into the glass. Put a load on the bars adds more flex to push into the glass.
4. Same as 3, except it allows side shifting to land one foot into the glass.

Since the feet are rubber, the rack will compress with load.
I think it would be prudent
1. Check the feet are not touching the glass on installation.
2. to torque to 3Nm, tug at bars in all directions per instructions.
3.have the rack sit in full sun (soften the feet),
4.put on your heaviest load, and then torque again to 3Nm.

My roof box was installed in the center of the roof racks and had shifted all the way to the passenger side, caused by high winds during the storm. I think this lateral force toward the passenger side combined with uneven roof glass gaps contributed to my cracked glass. To be fair, the roof racks were not OEM tesla/Yakima brand and the rubber mounting feet look different from the OEM parts. And there is also me. I could have screwed up the installation. Live and learn.

 

[impastu]

This...I recently had exact same issue with rear bar pads leaning on the glass (see original post 2nd photo compared to this one of mine). I have installed and uninstalled this rack 5-6 times without incident, so I'm frustrated about this. The design for the roof rack clearly leaves little room for error. Tesla will not cover the repair unless the SC installs the rack which is just not practical if it's being uninstalled after the occasional weekend trip.

I am now contemplating whether to replace it out of pocket or file a claim (barely exceeds my deductible), or try to fill the area with an epoxy resin as a band-aid at least until I see the car. I'm worried about paying to replace the glass then having this happen again because the rack mount fitting leaves so little room for error. But perhaps being sensitized to the fitting of the J-bolts and rubber seats will alleviate future issues.

I am embarrassed to confess that my cracked glass was the result of installer error. I did not have the anchor bolt latched into the correct location.

 

[MikeGracz]

Do you know which size hex bit the rack takes? Metric or imperial?
I’m just shopping on Amazon for a small torque wrench that goes low enough and some include a bit set but just want to make sure the size I’ll need is included in the set. Seems most of these sets are sold for bikes.
Thanks.

8 mm

 

[M3_Performante]

looks like I might go with this one for about same price as the Tesla rails themselves

Classic Ski Rack

The newly redesigned SeaSucker Ski Rack is the easiest way to get your gear to the mountain. Powerful 6” SeaSucker vacuum mounts hold the clamshell style carriers securely in place. Soft rubber padding safely grip your skis or snowboards without scratching them. Lightweight and compact, this ski...

www.seasucker.com

 

[Tonedog77]

looks like I might go with this one for about same price as the Tesla rails themselves

Classic Ski Rack

The newly redesigned SeaSucker Ski Rack is the easiest way to get your gear to the mountain. Powerful 6” SeaSucker vacuum mounts hold the clamshell style carriers securely in place. Soft rubber padding safely grip your skis or snowboards without scratching them. Lightweight and compact, this ski...

www.seasucker.com

Yeah just don’t open your hatch LOL

 

[M3_Performante]

Yeah just don’t open your hatch LOL

unfortunately the Model 3 doesn't have a hatch... but, yeah the trunk won't open much with a board or skis on the rack...

but you can always just move it to the roof like this tho

or set it up like this

 

[Tonedog77]

unfortunately the Model 3 doesn't have a hatch... but, yeah the trunk won't open much with a board or skis on the rack...

but you can always just move it to the roof like this tho

or set it up like this

I’ll stick to my roof rack and ski setup

 

[Ctuna]

Glass being installed crooked or skewed means it can bump up against the
J hook under stress and break the glass . On mine at the front there is a 7mm
gap between the glass and the side of the car on one side and 2mm on the other side where the glass gaps are even at the rear. Which is why the field tech didn't want to install the racks. Service Center installed them but I feel the situation is queezy. clips have to be 2mm thick so not tolerance with skewed roof glass.

 

[arbitrage000]

Well I finally got around to purchasing the Telsa roof rack and installed it a couple weeks ago. I had bought a small torque wrench off of Amazon that goes low enough (typically sold for bikes). I installed the rack without issue. I was a little unnerved by the popping sounds you get even just with initial less than hand tight but I've read that is normal and not the glass.

We had discussion in this thread about whether the rubber pads should touch the glass or be over the glass. What I found is the rear crossbar has the rubber pads slightly over the glass but not touching at all...a fairly decent gap. However, the front cross bar has the rubber pads very lightly touching the glass (at least on visual inspection). I need to go and test if they are really touching by running a piece of paper under them. Just based on the design of the rubber pad and how it fits over the metal hook, it seems a small part of the rubber pad must sit over the glass. I just don't see any way it wouldn't unless your glass is shifted to one side but then it may not sit over on one side but would sit over on the other side. But that doesn't mean it has to touch the glass. The rear ones certainly don't. Just like the photo posted by PNWLeccy on page 2.

My guess is assuming people have properly lined up the metal hook into the metal slot where the arrow points are then the discrepancy we see of how the rubber part sits over the glass and whether it touches or not is due to Tesla's wildly varying roof glass installation.

The only issue I'm noticing with my racks is the drivers side front has the plastic cover not sitting flush down to the rubber foot. There is more of a gap than there is on the other three rack mounting areas. But now looking at PNWLeccy's photo on page 2 it is sort of like that. My other corners are much better fit.

 

[jeremymc7]

Too bad Tesla didn't bother to install proper mount rails like on the Model S. Must have been another cost saving measure on these models. There have been quite a few cracked glass posts. I can only image the real total number.

 

[Ctuna]

It was defiantly and afterthought .
The first three's where incapable of taking a rack because they
had not designed one and they didn't add the anchor point for the
racks under the glass.
Also they deleted the original S mounting points on the S.

 

[Beyond]

Late to the party but I think that 3rd party racks are a lot of the problem. There are subtle but important differences. Many of the rubber pads on the 3rd party racks are slightly different. A MAJOR difference though is in the J clips. The genuine Tesla clips are full surface welded while every 3rd party clip I've seen is simply tack welded. This is a significant point of failure. Look at the 2 minute and 47 second point of the Rack Attack video "Tesla Model Y Roof Rack Crossbars Installation" on YouTube to see the improved clip. AFAIK every Model Y clip has this improvement. Only a few of the early Model 3 clips were of the old build. Link to the video:

 

[ngng]

I do a lot work on cars and have a pretty good feel for torque by hand. That being said, I 100% would encourage DIYers to use a REAL torque wrench. I suspect many failed installs are the result of over torquing the OEM hardware. For non-factory roof racks...all bets are off.

 

[Ctuna]

The only torque wrenches you can find that will go that low are pretty much bicycle beam wrenches. Others that go that low are way expensive.
Racks where and afterthought design with these not good. The original
model S had ports on the metal portion to receive the racks.
Those suction racks are a very terrible idea and they are a big hit
to range.

 

[ngng]

The only torque wrenches you can find that will go that low are pretty much bicycle beam wrenches. Others that go that low are way expensive.
Racks where and afterthought design with these not good.

Cheap bicycle torque wrench or an appropriate torque stick is perfectly acceptable. I've tested both against my calibrated $3300 Stahwille and they fall safely within the acceptable torque range.

The original model S had ports on the metal portion to receive the racks.

We get it...you don't like the roof rack design. Personally, I think it's a well thought out, clean design and installation.

Those suction racks are a very terrible idea and they are a big hit to range.

Huh? Anybody using those suctions are going to be adding some type of carrier...snowsport, cargo, whatever. Nobody is adding those features expecting to drive an efficient car.

 

[Ctuna]

Not everybody knows that . The factory racks only give you a 1 percent hit
to range loss. There was some guy that did a rocket pod test on a model 3
somewhere on the net.
when not loaded. From my observations one board on top no bag cost me
about and extra 50 watts per mile on the highway and nothing in town.

I would feel better if my roof glass wasn't skewed and I notice the rubber pad
is above the glass on every corner but one.